Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
hoser said:Yeah, they are just 35's but they measure a true 35" unlike some others. I think the spacers make them appear bigger too. I'm running 1.25" spacers in the front. I think I might go to 1" to get a little more clearance.
Actually, I'm glad I didn't go with 37's. I'd have to do a lot more banging with the sledge hammer to get those to fit.
As for T-bars, I'm using the OEM right now and it rides great. I might have to change when I get a new bumpers. I have it raised 2.5" in the front and 4" in the rear. I'm trying to bring the front up a bit and the rear back down just a hair but I'm maxed out (or minimized out) on my AHC adjustments. I'll have to figure out something else.
What do you suggest as a better sealer? The metal isn't bare. It has the factory coating on it. It just doesn't have the plastic liner covering it. So in time, pebbles could make nicks in it--hence the bedliner spray. I've used it in another vehicle's wheel wells and it hold ups pretty good. FWIW, Audi's have a carpet like material they put in the wheel wells (exposed side) to dampen the noise.UltraFJ said:You might want to use a better sealer for that exposed metal, other than just the bedliner stuff. I've seen moisture penetrate under it and cause unnoticed rust until the B.Liner stuff was removed.
hoser said:Yeah, they are just 35's but they measure a true 35" unlike some others. I think the spacers make them appear bigger too. I'm running 1.25" spacers in the front. I think I might go to 1" to get a little more clearance.
Actually, I'm glad I didn't go with 37's. I'd have to do a lot more banging with the sledge hammer to get those to fit.
As for T-bars, I'm using the OEM right now and it rides great. I might have to change when I get a new bumpers. I have it raised 2.5" in the front and 4" in the rear. I'm trying to bring the front up a bit and the rear back down just a hair but I'm maxed out (or minimized out) on my AHC adjustments. I'll have to figure out something else.
CTapia said:Looks great, how about some side pics. Any before and after shots to compare.
A few questions:
1. Going to a 1" spacers up front will bring your tire/rims inward for less stance, correct? I'm not following how you will get more clearance. I'm probably not thinking clearly on this.
The height in the front is the same in all the pics. It must be an optical illusion. I'm going to bring the butt down a little but right now the adjustment is either 2" or 4" of lift. The 3" spot for adjustment is obstructed. I can probably bend the existing bracket 180 degrees but I was trying to avoid that.Greg B said:In the first pic you posted, is the suspension on a lower setting? It looks like the front is sitting lower, but in the other pics it looks higher.
Also, thanks for posting pics of the Slee bumper without the tire carrier. I've been wanting to see what that will look like. That's the way I'll be going in the future and was curious how the rear would look with just the bumper.
Sorry, no before and after pics but my LX was stock and I'm sure you can find a pic of a stock LX. The BFG's will work fine without spacers. John Shottz uses those exact tires. Yes, the Toyos are also 12.5" wide on an 8" rim, maybe wider on a 10" rim.CTapia said:2. If I went with BF AT 315/75R16 which measure 34.6 (radius) and 11.5 wide do you think I would still need spacers and be forced to do some trimming like you did for clearance? This of course is with tweaking with the AHC system for lift.
3. The reason you added spacers was to clear the A-arms and wider stance is this correct? I then assume that your MTs are a true 12.5" wide?
ShottsUZJ100 said:No spacers are used on my 100 with 315 75 16