Look what came in the mail today... (1 Viewer)

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No Hoser, I thought you had ground it down to the bare metal. if not, then go with it. It shouldn't be an issue.

(For those wondering, if it were bare metal, I'd use a good metal sealer. The first one that comes to mind is POR-15. It keeps moisture from getting access to the metal.)

I'm extremely happy with the 35's and no body lift. Hmmmmmmm.........me thinks it will be really common in a very short period of time. What everyone will have to remember is the bump stops and longer shocks.

BTW, Shotts, what model shocks are you running and did you change your bumpstops?

Thanks, again nice work Hoser!


Doug
 
Looks AWESOME!!!!! The pics were worth the wait! The 100 forum is starting to get some beef in it bit by bit huh??? :beer: :beer: :beer: :beer:

Job well done!!!
 
hoser said:
The only thing I would have liked in the design is for the tow hitch to go through the crossbrace rather than just in front of it. This way the bumper could be shorter by 2.5" But I realize most people don't want to cut up their frame. I wouldn't mind though.

We looked at that option. However if you tuck the bumper in 2.5" you will not be able to make a tire carrier that clears the upper hatch without making a bent upper section. The back of the 100 is like a balloon and we had to come out to get the tire carrier to sit on something and still clear the tailgate. With the 80, that is not that case, hence the reason why the 80 does not have a receiver.

Also, with 45 degree lip on the bottom, the departute angle for that bumper vs a bumper that would have been flush with the cross member is just about the same.
 
sleeoffroad said:
We looked at that option. However if you tuck the bumper in 2.5" you will not be able to make a tire carrier that clears the upper hatch without making a bent upper section. The back of the 100 is like a balloon and we had to come out to get the tire carrier to sit on something and still clear the tailgate. With the 80, that is not that case, hence the reason why the 80 does not have a receiver.
Would a bent upper section have looked bad? I'm not sure but I do know what you mean about the rear being balloon-like. I'd say your bumper matches the lines of the 100 series quite nicely. I'm a happy customer. :cheers:
 
sleeoffroad said:
We looked at that option. However if you tuck the bumper in 2.5" you will not be able to make a tire carrier that clears the upper hatch without making a bent upper section. The back of the 100 is like a balloon and we had to come out to get the tire carrier to sit on something and still clear the tailgate. With the 80, that is not that case, hence the reason why the 80 does not have a receiver.

Also, with 45 degree lip on the bottom, the departute angle for that bumper vs a bumper that would have been flush with the cross member is just about the same.

Which brings me to an earlier question (Thanks, BTW Christo)...

I was wondering if the rear reciever (on the Slee) was strong enough to use for winch/recovery, and it makes sense that in its current design..it is probably not a good idea...

BUT.... Is there any way (I have not seen a pic BEHIND the Slee bumper) to possibly reinforce the hitch mount to the frame and/or beef it up to use for winching? ...I want to get a Portable winch (I am having a VERY stout front receiver installed behind my front ARB bar), and I would really like to, if possible, use the rear reciever as an anchor point also.

Any suggestions ? :frown:
 
It would have added complications to the tire carrier design. Complications always add costs. I am not sure if the extra costs would have been worth the gains. We have always made products that bolt on without modifications. The 80 series 2" receiver that we just finished is the first product that requires major cutting. However it is still not required for our bumper. The receiver is optional.
 
sleeoffroad said:
We have always made products that bolt on without modifications.

I prefer this anyways; I'm not a big fan of vehicle butchery. Will the bumpers without a tire carrier be identical minus the spindle and latches? Just curious when those will be available too.
 
spressomon said:
That brings up a question, I suspect I already have the answer for but what the heck: Does anyone make a A-arm kit/lift kit for the 100's IFS? Probably not near enough interest to entice someone to design and manufacturer one...but it would be nice to get 3"+ with proper droop. I would also be nice if the arms, as long as I am wishing here, made out of cromo to allow a slimmer lower profile lower arm.
I've been looking at Tundra and Taco IFS lift kits and most of the parts don't seem too hard to fabricate. Take a look, Spresso, and see if you are up to some more fab work. Make me a set too! :beer:
 
hoser said:
I've been looking at Tundra and Taco IFS lift kits and most of the parts don't seem too hard to fabricate. Take a look, Spresso, and see if you are up to some more fab work. Make me a set too! :beer:

Take a look at kits for 86-95 pickups and 4Runners. They use the same front suspension design(torsion bars) as the 100, so that may give you even a little more to work with. I know of one guy that bought a used kit on Pirate from a guy that was going SAS, and basically used the pieces to build his own, wider kit for his T100(also t-bar ifs). Hell, you may want to look at the T100 kits, there is a chance the could bolt on.
 
CTapia said:
THanks Shotts! You did have to adjust something to prevent them from rubbing on the A-arms correct? Any pics showing on what to adjust?

I don't have a pic though you really don't need one. Get underneath and you'll see a bolt slicking out with a rubber end on it. This is your turn stop. You adjust it by loosening up the nut then turning the bolt out more toward the inside wheel rim. You do this a little at a time until no rub. It's that bolt that stops the wheel from turning. (ie turnstop)
 
ShottsUZJ100 said:
I don't have a pic though you really don't need one. Get underneath and you'll see a bolt slicking out with a rubber end on it. This is your turn stop. You adjust it by loosening up the nut then turning the bolt out more toward the inside wheel rim. You do this a little at a time until no rub. It's that bolt that stops the wheel from turning. (ie turnstop)

Ok, I'll take a look., but what was the reason for needing to do this adjustment? It' wasn't for the A-arms, correct?
 
CTapia said:
Ok, I'll take a look., but what was the reason for needing to do this adjustment? It' wasn't for the A-arms, correct?

It decreases your turning radius (very slightly) and therefore you no longer rub when at full turn. :)
 
hoser said:
Finally, here at the pics. Initial impression about the Toyos. They ride smooth and are pretty quiet for an MT tire but still possess the MT hum. Acceleration is noticably slower but still faster than my old 80. Braking requires more force but that is expected with the larger diameter. I will be changing brake pads in the near future for ones with a better bite.

That's what I'm talking about!!! I saw the earlier pics, but somehow missed the newer ones. Awsome... I'll be sending you a P.M.
 
CTapia, Your PM box is full... clear it out or buy a star!!!!
 
hoser said:
CTapia, Your PM box is full... clear it out or buy a star!!!!

Cleared!

CTapia
 
I4C4LO, I had the wheel adapters machined by http://motorsport-tech.com/ (909-844-0942). I was satisfied with the work and the turn around time was just like 3 days. Who ever you go with, make sure they include the low profile nuts with the adapters as those can be hard to find. Check post #41 of this thread if you need the specs.
 
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Hoser,
Maybe I missed it but why the 18 inch wheels with the bigger tires. Some other more experianced wheelers mentioned to me that going to 18" would offer less off road traction because they would air down less. Have you run into to this? Also, how does that tire sound/feel on the highway for several hours? Going with such agresive tires worried me because I spend alot of time on the highway going to and from trips.
 
I'm not building a hardcore off-road rig and so I felt the 18's would be fine. 18's w/ 35's still offer more traction than 16's w/ 33's. I was looking at all the aftermarket 16" offerings and there were none that I liked. I saw these for sale and picked them up. I've also had thoughts about upgrading the brakes, in which case, the 18's allow room for bigger brakes.

IMO, these tires are reasonably quiet for the highway and I would have no problem driving 6+ hours a day on them. I have about 10k miles on them and they are just slightly louder than when new but still very acceptable. I think it helps the 100 has a lot of sound deadening material. However, they are load E tires. Running 40+psi, you will feel the highway bumps and cracks more.
 

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