Look what came in the mail today... (1 Viewer)

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UltraFJ said:
Still looking for the pics Hoser. Where did you get the spacers and what specs are they?
I just got back into town. A box arrived with my spacers but they forgot to provide the proper lug nuts for them. :mad: I checked the local parts store and they only carry 7/8" lug nuts which are too big--they don't allow enough room for the socket to fit within the wheel adapter. So, the guy is sending me the 5/8" lug nuts which should be here in a couple of days.

I ordered two spacers in 1.25" and two in 1" widths to play around with. 1" is pretty much the minimum you can go with a wheel adapter without grinding down the wheel studs. The 1" spacers will also work with OEM alloy wheels but probably not steel wheels.

In the front, I wanted something a little wider to compensate for the track width loss when raising the IFS. It was either 1.25 or 1.5 inch. I played it safe and went with the 1.25" ones since my tires are fairly wide and didn't want to hit the fender on compression--if I decide later I can do something wider, I'll just sell these spacers and get new ones.

If you are ordering spacers, here's the info you need:
5x150
110mm Bore on vehicle
14mm x 1.5 studs

Keep in mind that the 5x150 is larger than most bolt patterns. They have to build it from a large 8" diameter piece of billet aluminum which is more costly. The bore hole on the vehicle is 110mm and so the wheel adapter should be 110.3mm or something like that. Try to get the wheel nuts from the supplier too. The 5/8" nuts seem to be less common.

Slee Off-Road also sells wheel adapter for the 100 but they don't normally stock them.
 
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SINCITY100 said:
How much (if any) wheel travel do you lose with those monsters ? My 285/75/16`s seem to stuff just as far (as the stock tires) without rubbing anything in the well..I cant imagine how THAT much rubber can fit in there under full compression...especially with the steering wheel cranked in either direction.

Just curious, because I am SO impressed with the amount of articulation still available with the OME/33" tire combo
I don't know because I haven't installed my 35's yet but IRRC, John Shottz mentioned that he lowered the bumpstops on the rear. To be simplistic, 35's only reduce your clearance by 1" more than your 33's (given the same width). So, if you have plenty of clearance now when fully stuffed, then 35's should work well enough. I think most people are okay living with an occasional rub here and there.

A 1" body lift is also fairly easy and doesn't cause to many complications except for the dreaded bumper-to-body gap. But that should take care of most of the rubbing.... if there even is any.
 
hoser said:
I don't know because I haven't installed my 35's yet but IRRC, John Shottz mentioned that he lowered the bumpstops on the rear. To be simplistic, 35's only reduce your clearance by 1" more than your 33's (given the same width). So, if you have plenty of clearance now when fully stuffed, then 35's should work well enough. I think most people are okay living with an occasional rub here and there.

A 1" body lift is also fairly easy and doesn't cause to many complications except for the dreaded bumper-to-body gap. But that should take care of most of the rubbing.... if there even is any.


Thanks for the reply Hoser !

I guess that a minimal amount of rubbing is to be expected when running a tire that big (35") ..I know there is some dispute either way, I.E. 33" Vs 35s.. which set up is better overall... But my guess is that the increase in axle clearance AND the fact it is much easier rock crawling or riding over deep cross-grooves and real ugly gaps ( Can you say...Golden Crack ! ) far outweighs the slight loss of flexibility in the suspension...

Damn !.. Now I NEED 35"s !!! :frown:
 
Thanks for the update Hoser.

Ya know, I'm having issues rubbing with my 325/60/18's(32.99). I have the OME TBars and rear springs installed. Also have the Slee diff drop installed.

I have the TBars cranked up and still get rubbing on the PS front. If you could, would you post pics of your CV's once the install is complete? I'd like to do a little comparison.

Thanks,

Doug
 
Sure, I can snap a pic but what are you comparing on the CV's? The angle? Where does your tires rub? The upper A-arm or is it rubbing when fully turned (locked)?
 
Rear: You'll rub quite a bit at full flex. I ate off all the wheel well insulation on my first run. I lowered the bumpstops by 2" with very minimal off-road effect. I did that in the 80 too. Very happy I did that.
If you're adding wheel spacers then you might rub even more because the arc from the center of the vehicle out increases when fully flexed. You'll have to see. I know on a Taco like my '04 this is the case.

Front: You'll rub at full turn on the upper A-arm and on oneof the plastic panels. Simply adjust your trun stops to correct for this. CAKE! Your turning radius increases VERY slightly but the thud thud thud at full turn disappears.
 
UltraFJ said:
Thanks for the update Hoser.

Ya know, I'm having issues rubbing with my 325/60/18's(32.99). I have the OME TBars and rear springs installed. Also have the Slee diff drop installed.

I have the TBars cranked up and still get rubbing on the PS front.

Your rubbing issue might be because your tire is so wide, not necessarily because of the height. Spacers are probably what you need to get the tires farther out from the suspension. I doubt any height/suspension change would help you.
 
Thanks for the insight. It does in fact rub on the pinchweld at full turn to the right with any kind of weight on it.

I'd like to compare the CV angles to see if theres any more heighth I could squeeze out of it.

Also considering spacers.

I really like the tire width.
 
UltraFJ said:
Thanks for the insight. It does in fact rub on the pinchweld at full turn to the right with any kind of weight on it.

I'd like to compare the CV angles to see if theres any more heighth I could squeeze out of it.

Also considering spacers.

I really like the tire width.

Careful on the height. It's not CV angles....it's lack of down-travel. Too little and your ride on and off road go to poop.
 
ShottsUZJ100 said:
Careful on the height. It's not CV angles....it's lack of down-travel. Too little and your ride on and off road go to poop.


VERY true !

When I first installed my OME T-bars + diff drop, They were obviously cranked up a bit too much because, even though the CV angles seemed acceptable, the down travel was virtually non-existant !

Not only did the ride quality go South, but the front tires would unload so much that the tires would squeal and chirp on even minor bumps or dips (On pavement). Oh, and due to the increased spring rate, the tires would not compress (up into the wheel well) fully under ANY condition, although I suppose re-indexing may have helped the latter problem a bit .
(Is that correct ?) :confused:
 
SINCITY100 said:
VERY true !

When I first installed my OME T-bars + diff drop, They were obviously cranked up a bit too much because, even though the CV angles seemed acceptable, the down travel was virtually non-existant !

Not only did the ride quality go South, but the front tires would unload so much that the tires would squeal and chirp on even minor bumps or dips (On pavement). Oh, and due to the increased spring rate, the tires would not compress (up into the wheel well) fully under ANY condition, although I suppose re-indexing may have helped the latter problem a bit .
(Is that correct ?) :confused:

Try to limit to 2.5 to 2.75 above stock.

And no, there's nothing you can do about the travel. With lift you need to overtwist the bar to compress fully. Reindexing just changes the position of your adjuster bolt position.
 
ShottsUZJ100 said:
Try to limit to 2.5 to 2.75 above stock.

And no, there's nothing you can do about the travel. With lift you need to overtwist the bar to compress fully. Reindexing just changes the position of your adjuster bolt position.

Thanks for clearing that up Shotts.

I wasnt sure if you could gain the same lift while keeping the (T-bars) rate a little softer..What you said FINALLY makes sense to me !

No more dumb assumptions on my part..
(Well, at least for the rest of the day !) :eek:
 
Update

I've started to install my wheels. I weighed the OEM wheels on my bathroom scale at 62lbs each. The 35" Toyo's weigh in at a heavy 118lbs each! Ouchie, I'm gonna notice that.

As you can see, there are some clearance problems. The bumper needed to be trimmed and the aft part of the wheel well needed modding as well. Also, there is a plastic box on the driver's side (behind the foglight) that needs to be modded. So far, it's not rubbing when fully cranked to one side but I'll have to check the clearance.

Here's a pic of the suspension in the low mode. Helps me get the suspension closer to "stuffed" to see where the problem areas are.
frontinstalled.jpg
frontinterference.jpg
rearinterference.jpg
 
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Wow, those are massive. What about getting a bull bar to alleviate some the clearance issues in the front?
 
hoser said:
I've started to install my wheels. I weighed the OEM wheels on my bathroom scale at 62lbs each. The 35" Toyo's weigh in at a heavy 118lbs each! Ouchie, I'm gonna notice that.

As you can see, there are some clearance problems. The bumper needed to be trimmed and the aft part of the wheel well needed modding as well. Also, there is a plastic box on the driver's side (behind the foglight) that needs to be modded as well. So far, it's not rubbing when fully cranked to one side but I'll have to check the clearance.

Here's a pic of the suspension in the low mode. Helps me get the suspension closer to "stuffed" to see where the problem areas are.

I have more pics... hold on before posting...

WOW, I MISSED THAT. You're trying to fit 35s with a stock front bumper? Is it going to work?
 
Here's the mod to the aft part of the front wheel well. I cut out the plastic and took a BFH to the lip and bent the lip towards the outside. I also trimmed some of the lower metal with a grinder. It sits just about flat and has gained me about 3/4" clearance. I will spray the exposed metal with bed liner spray after I'm done.

One more pic... hold on.
mod.jpg
aftermod.jpg
 
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Here's the rear tire lifted up with a jack. I will roll the lip to get a little more clearance. More pictures to follow later today.
Rearsemistuffed.jpg
 
macneill said:
Wow, those are massive. What about getting a bull bar to alleviate some the clearance issues in the front?
I trimmed the bumper and it clears without problem. I am planning on getting a custom bumper in the near future. I like the TJM bumper but it only fits the LC :frown: I'm holding off because I'm considering doing a 1" body lift if I need more clearance.
 
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You might want to consider doing some serious bumper trimming until you get your custom unit made.

this Bumper trimming thread also has some good custom bumper pics.
 
Finally, here at the pics. Initial impression about the Toyos. They ride smooth and are pretty quiet for an MT tire but still possess the MT hum. Acceleration is noticably slower but still faster than my old 80. Braking requires more force but that is expected with the larger diameter. I will be changing brake pads in the near future for ones with a better bite.
1.jpg
2.jpg
3.jpg
 

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