IM running extended in the rear... Anyone extended in the front? The rear was pretty bound up until the extendeds. The front feels the same and seems like it could use some relief.
Longer front sway bar links - thoughts? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter RobRed
- Start date
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Check your clearance between drive shaft & the ASB. IIRC when I was on this path it was the obstacle to longer links.
Edit: Just crawled under my 100: Drive shaft is not an interference issue with longer front ASB links. Eventually, depending on the additional length of the link extension the ASB looks like it will hit the intermediate belly pan (Slee...YMMV).
Edit: Just crawled under my 100: Drive shaft is not an interference issue with longer front ASB links. Eventually, depending on the additional length of the link extension the ASB looks like it will hit the intermediate belly pan (Slee...YMMV).
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You should only need longer links to match more front travel. Since another inch is about all you'll get travel wise I'm not sure longer links would make a difference unless the system currently binds.
About the only thing longer links would do, if it was physically possible, relative to our lifted front IFS, is keep the ASB bushing end and the rubber bushing more parallel. As it is on my LC this mating of the ASB and the rubber bushing is at a more acute angle...and thus a more frequent PM/renewal schedule.
But given how relatively inexpensive the bushings are and how easy they are to swap...
OTOH I'd fork over a decent sum for a viable quick release for the front ASB!
But given how relatively inexpensive the bushings are and how easy they are to swap...
OTOH I'd fork over a decent sum for a viable quick release for the front ASB!
I'm forever released as the halves of my front ASB are floating around the garage somewhere and with the IronMan T-Bars high spring rate I'm keeping it that way.
re_guderian
SILVER Star
one bolt per side and zip tie to frame?... could do it while airing down...anyone do this? Can't remember if there's enough clearance to do this with wheel on and cranked to one side, or if wheel has to be off...
- Thread starter
- #7
Lifting the truck tensions the sway bar so relieving the tension provides a better ride quality and returns the range to a more normal state. In my case I have the addition front travel via longer shocks and total chaos UCA.
I'll look at the driveline clearance. I have 2.25 longer rears and I was thinking 1.5 in front.
I'll look at the driveline clearance. I have 2.25 longer rears and I was thinking 1.5 in front.
It won't work like an 80 QR. The only method that made sense to me was below or complete removal which is a PITA at trail head/end. There's just no space...especially when the front driveshaft is thrown in to the mix.
The closest system I've seen, a homebrew make-up, that has the potential to work on our's is from a 4R guy with a similar IFS & ASB system...there's a thread somewhere in here on it with a link. I just never got around to experimenting/fabbing it up to see how well it worked on a 100.
Here's one of several threads on the disco front ASB...but the IH8MUD link I posted is dead.
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- Thread starter
- #9
So your thinking removing some tension on the front by longer links would not yield better ride quality? That front bar exerts a fair amount of force on the front suspension. Quick release.... Now you're talking. Sounds like a SpressoFab project.
^ I wouldn't expect any appreciable difference with longer links...even if it were possible (driveshaft interference).
However based upon my experience with running my 100 on-trail without the front ASB a QR disconnect would be highly appreciated by me! If the on-road manners weren't so nasty I'd run without the front ASB...but IMO with my rig its borderline dangerous...if not irresponsible relative to passenger's and/or other motorist's overall safety.
However based upon my experience with running my 100 on-trail without the front ASB a QR disconnect would be highly appreciated by me! If the on-road manners weren't so nasty I'd run without the front ASB...but IMO with my rig its borderline dangerous...if not irresponsible relative to passenger's and/or other motorist's overall safety.
I disconnected my front links for daily driving a few months ago. Several trips through NC mountains and I honestly don't notice a difference, except no snapping and binding. Wondering if anyone else rides sans ASB after a lift.
- Thread starter
- #12
The longer rears make an appreciable difference so it's only natural to look at the front.
Keep in mind this is for on road. I would not expect to feel any difference bouncing around offroad. No ASB would be ideal there.
So by changing the ends how does this effect inboard mounting position causing interference with the drive shaft?
- Thread starter
- #13
AimCOtaco stated above. No front.
If you're getting snapping and binding you have other issues.
WabFab used to make some for the 3rd Gen 4Runners that were pretty sweet. I contacted Brian and he doesn't have a jig for the 100-series cruisers. I can send him my fronts and rears and he can get some made up pretty quick. Not a "cheap" option @ $150/pair, but they're very well made and very easy to connect/disconnect.
For a 4Runner/Tacoma. The stud installs into the lower arm. The bushings go on the sway bar. Pull the pin and move the joint off the stud for offroad. Simply slide the joint back onto the stud and insert retention pin when ready to get back on the street.
I would assume that they would be 2-2.5" extended length for the front, 3" extended for the rear, and quick release. Anybody see any reason to deviate from that?
For a 4Runner/Tacoma. The stud installs into the lower arm. The bushings go on the sway bar. Pull the pin and move the joint off the stud for offroad. Simply slide the joint back onto the stud and insert retention pin when ready to get back on the street.
I would assume that they would be 2-2.5" extended length for the front, 3" extended for the rear, and quick release. Anybody see any reason to deviate from that?
re_guderian
SILVER Star
What keeps the asb from flopping onto the tie rod when disconnected in that setup?
When both sides are disconnected, you simply push the ASB up snug to the frame. Since both sides are disconnected, there's nothing to make it rotate back down as there's enough friction in the rubber busings at the frame mounts to hold it firm. I used them for years on a 3rd Gen 4Runner and they worked great.
On the hundy, the lower control arm mount is a little different, but I have an idea as to how to fix that too. (no that's not my truck with all that cancer. damn)
I think you just remove one of the tabs on the lower control arm - obviously the weaker of the two that doesn't have the lateral bracing (right one in the above pic).
After that, you simply install a WabFab type of extended link with quick disconnect:
On the hundy, the lower control arm mount is a little different, but I have an idea as to how to fix that too. (no that's not my truck with all that cancer. damn)
I think you just remove one of the tabs on the lower control arm - obviously the weaker of the two that doesn't have the lateral bracing (right one in the above pic).
After that, you simply install a WabFab type of extended link with quick disconnect:
I sure would be interested in some of these... Used them all the time on my old 2nd gen 4Runner, similar setup to the tacos/3rd gens.
re_guderian
SILVER Star
you may need to make the bottom of the front one look like the top of the back one (u-shaped) and have two pins. I'd be worried about strength of the single bracket. I've snapped a link in the front, they can get some force on 'em...Edit: yeah, that's not gonna work...
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Here's the disconnect idea I was going to try on mine but never got around to it (from the dead link above): http://www.off-road.com/trucks-4x4/tech/swaybar-disconnects-toyota-cheap-tricks-18343.html
WabFab used to make some for the 3rd Gen 4Runners that were pretty sweet. I contacted Brian and he doesn't have a jig for the 100-series cruisers. I can send him my fronts and rears and he can get some made up pretty quick. Not a "cheap" option @ $150/pair, but they're very well made and very easy to connect/disconnect.
For a 4Runner/Tacoma. The stud installs into the lower arm. The bushings go on the sway bar. Pull the pin and move the joint off the stud for offroad. Simply slide the joint back onto the stud and insert retention pin when ready to get back on the street.
I would assume that they would be 2-2.5" extended length for the front, 3" extended for the rear, and quick release. Anybody see any reason to deviate from that?
$150 a pair doesn't sound too outrageous. It's not like there are any "cheap" mods for 100s
. I think I spent around $120 a pair for JKS discos on my Jeep about a decade ago.
