Locking rear axle into LX 470 - what's needed? (1 Viewer)

[SteveH]

A junkyard is pulling a locking rear from a '00 Land Cruiser for me, along with the dash switch and 'anything else I need'.

What else do I need to swap the entire axle into my '99 LX 470? Is there a locker computer and/or a different computer needed than is in my Lexus? I have no idea if my LX will have exactly the same wiring harness as the LC. I'm also prepared (if required) to do an aftermarket wiring harness for the locker, but would rather stick with factory wiring and parts. I'm not worried about a dash indicator, since my LX won't have one.

Thanks for any suggestions/advice.

 

[saucebox]

There's a factory locking computer, yes. I have no idea if your harness will have all the necessary connections, but it's dead easy to wire it up aftermarket. I used the Slee box, and my '03 definitely did not have any accomodations for the rear locker. I ended up not using the factory computer I got because of that. Likely still have it banging around in the garage somewhere if you want it, because I'm terrible about throwing land cruiser parts away, even when they're useless to me.

The subharness that ties the locker motor into your factory harness is kind of a mofo to get out...very well placed by Toyota. Hopefully they can get it out whole for you.

 

[SteveH]

Slee shows nothing on their website for factory locker bits, but I can call them.

 

[FamilyCamper]

Slee shows nothing on their website for factory locker bits, but I can call them.

Good luck and please update if possible with what you find in the end. I have a 2000 LC and would like to try and get a factory locked 98-99 axle in at some point and wire it up.

 

[Mauser]

I used a harness from Low Range Offroad when I did my rear. I have a Toyota e locker in the rear and an ARB in the front. I like the aftermarket harness because I can control the front and rear locker separate and also don't have to be in 4 lo to activate it.

 

[hoser]

A junkyard is pulling a locking rear from a '00 Land Cruiser for me, along with the dash switch and 'anything else I need'.

I would ask for a picture of the axle showing the actuator. Most junkyards don’t know the difference. ‘00 with rear locker is a red flag.

 

[FamilyCamper]

I used a harness from Low Range Offroad when I did my rear. I have a Toyota e locker in the rear and an ARB in the front. I like the aftermarket harness because I can control the front and rear locker separate and also don't have to be in 4 lo to activate it.

The website does not list the 98-99 Landcruiser rear locker as compatible?
what elocker do you have in yours?

 

[Mauser]

The website does not list the 98-99 Landcruiser rear locker as compatible?
what elocker do you have in yours?

It's out of a 99 Land Cruiser. I don't remember which one I used, but they do have one that works. Might try giving them a call.

 

[FamilyCamper]

It's out of a 99 Land Cruiser. I don't remember which one I used, but they do have one that works. Might try giving them a call.

Okay thank you I appreciate it. Did you do a full axle swap? did you have much issue switching it out or was it pretty straightforward?

 

[Mauser]

Okay thank you I appreciate it. Did you do a full axle swap? did you have much issue switching it out or was it pretty straightforward?

Complete axle. It's pretty straightforward. Just drop the old one and put the new one in. Actually pretty easy to do.

 

[FamilyCamper]

Complete axle. It's pretty straightforward. Just drop the old one and put the new one in. Actually pretty easy to do.

Very cool. Any tips on how to test or things to look out for to make sure I get an axle with a working locker in it?? Did you do any locker maintenance before getting it all together?

 

[Mauser]

Very cool. Any tips on how to test or things to look out for to make sure I get an axle with a working locker in it?? Did you do any locker maintenance before getting it all together?

Mine came out of a truck that had spent its whole life here in NM. It was really clean so I just assumed it worked. All I did was change the oil after I installed it. Hell I even used the brake pads it came with.

There isn't a whole lot to the locker. Most of the time if the actuator works the rest of it will.

Dropping the rear is fairly easy. You just need jackstands that are tall enough to hold the truck up from the frame high enough to have the tires off the ground. I would soak the speed sensors with some penetrant for a couple of days so they come out a little easier.

 

[FamilyCamper]

Mine came out of a truck that had spent its whole life here in NM. It was really clean so I just assumed it worked. All I did was change the oil after I installed it. Hell I even used the brake pads it came with.

There isn't a whole lot to the locker. Most of the time if the actuator works the rest of it will.

Dropping the rear is fairly easy. You just need jackstands that are tall enough to hold the truck up from the frame high enough to have the tires off the ground. I would soak the speed sensors with some penetrant for a couple of days so they come out a little easier.

Really appreciate the insight. There is one nearby just gotta save a little before going for it!

 

[Mauser]

Really appreciate the insight. There is one nearby just gotta save a little before going for it!

Cool. I got lucky, mine came from Upull and Pay. The whole thing cost me $200 and a little time pulling it.

 

[SteveH]

I saw the truck in person with the dial on the dash and the locker actuator (as far as I could tell). This yard is legit - if something is amiss, they will stand behind it. Thanks for your replies here!

 

[hoser]

Legit yard is a rarity! Haha. If you are paying a premium, anything close to an Eaton E-locker installed, I would certainly suggest going that route. It’s a better, more reliable, more robust design.

As far as rear locker indicator light, your cluster does have one.

 

[SteveH]

Got the axle home and unloaded ('58 Massey 50). Bought the $230 Trail Gear harness. Sadly, Trail Gear's web page shows out-of-date wiring diagrams that don't match the colors of the current harness. Also, only one guy there (chronically busy) knows anything about e-locker harnesses. Their other people were nice and tried to help, but simply don't have the knowledge or resources.

So, I took the Toyota wiring connectors off my axle harness and swapped them onto to the end of the TG harness. Crossed my fingers and.....it works. Pretty slick. See pix for wire color mapping. I ordered the FZJ-80 'high pinion' harness at the recommendation of the sales guy (who said it would fit a 100 series).

This was WAY more hassle than it should be - it was supposed to be 'plug in simple' and was a giant PITA. A buddy with a 4Runner studied his harness and helped me figure this out and suggested just doing the connector swap, with the frustrating 'pins' and 'locks' on the Toyota connectors. Also, the TG wiring seals (the yellow 'plugs' on the wires) don't fit tightly (cheaply made), so I will squirt a bunch of silicone grease into the sockets to prevent corrosion. But, in the end, it works.

 

[SteveH]

Swapped in the axle yesterday. 2pm - 9 pm, minus an hour for dinner. Lots of disconnect, reconnect, 3 come-along pulls to get bolts started. Nothing helpful in the FSM, but it's not super difficult to figure out. Pix for your viewing pleasure.

Seems to drive just fine - no odd sounds, smooth at 80 MPH, brakes work, no ABS lights. I now need to run the locker wiring and then should be done.

 

[savirc]

I did this swap, I'm glad you didn't use the stock computer, it will give you limitations due to the safety that is built into it.

What do you plan to do with the spare non-locked axle? I still have mine with only 64k miles on it and I'm trying to figure out a use for it to someone or something.

 

[SteveH]

@savirc - Good question! I will pull the calipers and rotors to prevent rust on those parts, and stuff it in my barn for a while (using my Massey tractor) until I'm darn sure the new axle is ok. I will then either give it all away to a local, or pull the 3rd member and keep it. I hate to toss it, but the axle isn't super valuable. It's also stunningly heavy and hard to move or store. I could give it back to the junkyard where I got the locker, and they could resell it (just to avoid having it be scrapped).

Question - How did you run the aftermarket locker harness into the truck? Did you bring it in near the rear, or run it in to the truck up front? Where can I find a grommet hole large enough to pass the switch through?