has anyone ever gone completely through the lockers and if so what info can you provide in getting them to operate again, I have an excellent mechanic working on it and we are at a standstill
Lockers not working (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Alaskoming
- Start date
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Bambusiero
SILVER Star
Just checked mine, it's been a while, and found them not operating. 
So - search & read:
That dreaded disassembly of the locker...
Rear Locking Dif Assembly Help
Actuator Motor - Real Time Help Needed.
So - search & read:
That dreaded disassembly of the locker...
Rear Locking Dif Assembly Help
Actuator Motor - Real Time Help Needed.
Tap with a hammer.
Clean, rebuild & re-grease activators.
Clean, rebuild & re-grease activators.
we need a little more to go on. You should here A click in the passenger side foot well and then the motor run. These are old now there is a o ring that fails and lets water in if that happens you get this
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There petty amazing it was still working like that I was on the Rubicon and it was getting fussy so I just left it locked on till I got off the trail ordered a rebuild kit from Wits end and was able to save it
Bambusiero
SILVER Star
Wow! Amazing transformation!
Haircut & a shave, a little Brilcream. You clean up OK!
Did you have to re-glue the magnets? What glue?
Haircut & a shave, a little Brilcream. You clean up OK!
Did you have to re-glue the magnets? What glue?
richardlillard1
SILVER Star
Wow! Amazing transformation!
Haircut & a shave, a little Brilcream. You clean up OK!
Did you have to re-glue the magnets? What glue?
A nice two part epoxy works. We have an abundance of this in large cans at the shop. If you find you’d like some, let me know.
No I was lucky the magnets were fineWow! Amazing transformation!
Haircut & a shave, a little Brilcream. You clean up OK!
Did you have to re-glue the magnets? What glue?
Cruiser Outfitters sells Aisin ones. Depending on corrosion you might not be able to rebuild them. If they are not clicking, You will need to open them. See if actuator shaft is frozen. If so, I would buy new ones.
Lockers not working can often be just the switch on the transfer case that detects that the center diff has actually locked after being switched on
- Thread starter
- #11
I will be getting with Sean over the next couple days he is the one that has been working on it begin looking at these details however I feel that he has already done this I'm hoping you will be able to discuss with him a bit what he has encountered
No problem and welcome to mud you well find a wealth of information here and genuine people welling to help.
Cheers
PS the links that Bambusiero posted are a good place to start.
Cheers
PS the links that Bambusiero posted are a good place to start.
FYI it’s really easy to repair the sensor switches if they stop working (without having to replace them)...
Remove the switch from the diff (27mm socket), make sure if it physically moves in/out by pressing with your thumb. Next stage is to get a battery, some leads/wires and a small 12v light (indicator globes work really well). Wire it up so your battery connects to the switch, then to the light, then back to the battery (easiest circuit in the world). Press and release the switch a dozen times (light should flash on and off), then simply reinstall.
This is applicable for anywhere this switch is used (often for reverse in manual gearboxes etc).
Basically the problem is the terminals inside the switch get dirty, the amount of current that flows for the signal to the ecu is tiny and has no effect, but using a light globe has enough current to “clean” the internal contacts effectively repairing the switch.
I recently purchased 2 Sahara’s with factory diff locks, all 4 had the dreaded “flashing lights” and not working. This method (which takes about 5 minutes per diff) has worked on every diff...
Cheers
Remove the switch from the diff (27mm socket), make sure if it physically moves in/out by pressing with your thumb. Next stage is to get a battery, some leads/wires and a small 12v light (indicator globes work really well). Wire it up so your battery connects to the switch, then to the light, then back to the battery (easiest circuit in the world). Press and release the switch a dozen times (light should flash on and off), then simply reinstall.
This is applicable for anywhere this switch is used (often for reverse in manual gearboxes etc).
Basically the problem is the terminals inside the switch get dirty, the amount of current that flows for the signal to the ecu is tiny and has no effect, but using a light globe has enough current to “clean” the internal contacts effectively repairing the switch.
I recently purchased 2 Sahara’s with factory diff locks, all 4 had the dreaded “flashing lights” and not working. This method (which takes about 5 minutes per diff) has worked on every diff...
Cheers
+1 on the sensor switch repair using electrical current, this worked for all my switches too.
This. If your center diff lock light doesn’t come on when you first shift into 4-low, then this is a likely cause. Lockers won’t engage unless the CDL is confirmed to be engaged electronically.
Feistl - relatively new here to mud - and also to using lockers - Glad to have found this as I have the flashing rear and front dash symbols. My understanding from reading other postings is that (please correct me if I am wrong):
1) they flash when the CDL is not engaging
2) they would flash if they themselves are not engaging although the CDL engages.
My case appears to be case 1 - as my CDL does not appear to engage as the light does not come on when I drop into Low - but I would think that this methodology for a fix would work as well? I assume some of those trucks you fixed had the same problem?
I may case both the locker light were flashing when I first got my Reg and no CDL light. pulling the sensor switch on the CDL freeing up the ball on the bottom with electrical cleaner got it working again, no battery or light needed. 
On my truck, the CDL actuator was not working when I bought it. No CDL light or ABS light. You can test if the axle lockers are working by popping the plug off of the CDL sensor and jumpering the two terminals to one another. That should bring on the CDL and ABS light, and then the axle locker computer will let the axles do their thing.
