Lockers Install

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MKPNG

MKPNG

Joined
Mar 8, 2016
Threads
16
Messages
55
Location
Lake Jackson, TX
I'm sure this has been covered. Before you say: use the search. I have. Maybe I'm using it wrong.
I'm looking at what the cost is going to be to install front and rear lockers in my 1992 80. What lockers are recommended, and how easy of an install is it? Any information would be helpful. Thanks!
 
Cheapest route would be to find locked complete axles to swap in. Your probably looking at $800-1500 per side around here.

Being a '92 that never offered a locked version you will have build or scavenge all the wiring.

I would toss a Aussie locker in the back and call it good if I had a '92 before retrofitting the whole rig. Or sell it can buy a locked one if that is your priority...... unless your '92 is super nice.

Harrop <sp?> e-lockers may be an option as well.
 
If you don't want to do major work, a set of ARB lockers would be great. Even though expensive, this is likely the cost effective best bet.

I'm not a fan of lunchbox type lockers like Aussie, Lockright etc. While they work, it's a compromise.

If you're willing to retrofit and do significant work, a set of locked axles off a later truck would work well. Expensive and a lot of work though.

With medium work, you could swap in a full float rear axle and then install Harrop lockers front and rear.

Anything you do will be fairly expensive. Like $3000 minimum. It's the price of admission, don't worry about it.:D
 
I am somewhat biased (we import and distribute Harrops through installing shops) but my best advice would be to take a deep breath and think about it. Four basic paths to take (other than autolockers):
  1. What Retrofive said - autolockers - cheap, easy :)
  2. Install OEM Toyota elockers - may end up a big/expensive/time consuming project what with finding, swapping, etc. while dealing with 20+ year old used parts and repair/rebuild parts that may be hard to come by...... :(
  3. Install ARBs as an easy solution - don't forget the compressor, wiring, tank and lines - and go wheeling :steer:
  4. Swap out semi for full float rear axle and install a couple of Harrops :bounce::bounce2:
Ballpark Costs?
  1. Autolockers - hundreds, not thousands.
  2. OEM Toyota, depends on luck, skill and time to find.
  3. ARBs with compressor/etc. and misc costs, $500 less than Harrops (installed).
  4. Harrops $500 more than ARBs (installed) plus a FF axle out of an FZJ 80.
If I had an FJ80, I would go with Door #1 - drive it, enjoy it and someday sell it / move to a full float (locked or unlocked) FZJ 80, 100 or 200.

Whatever you do, don't go crazy. Not the right truck (IMHO) to spend a bunch on - unless it is mint, like new and solid platform for a diesel/5 speed swap and a FF axle in back......

Good luck / have fun! :cheers:

EDIT - What @ewillis says below is a good mix of 1 and 4 :clap:
 
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Aussie in the rear, Harrop up front if you're going for 3x locked. Less than 3K total with installation, shipping, taxes, fluids, new carrier bearing, etc. I would recommend Zuk for install. Just used my Harrop front locker to get up some icy inclines in the mountains.
2016-12-25 16.42.19.webp
 
@wardharris

100's and 200's have semi-float rear axles. They just don't have c-clips, which is why the Harrops work with their 4 pinion design.

But the 80 series the original poster has, is a C-clip rear axle. Which is why he would have to swap in a later FF axle to make Harrops work.

For a wheeling truck an early 80 series would be great. Cheap, great suspension, decent motor. But once you start adding selectable rear lockers of any type it gets expensive fast. But spend it once and move forward. Obviously an FZJ80 does everything better, but nothing wrong with a 3FE.

Harrops cost $500 more only because that is the price of a non-locked junk yard rear full float 80 series axle. Which would be a direct swap into the OP's truck.
 
If full floater axles are desired and you have a decent budget, I would get non-locked axles to swap in and add either ARB or Harrop selectable lockers. This way you get the benefits of the FF and avoid the shortfalls of the OEM lockers.

If budget isn't as deep and you don't drive on ice a lunchbox locker is pretty decent.

Here's a couple of threads with really good info.

Lockers - why you want them and how/when to use them

Anyone out there running front & rear LSDs?
 
OP - another version of searching is to truely google it with F(z)J80 in yur search. Maybe Ih8mud too - the google knows all.

People repeatedly mention this method working better, at least if you haven't been in this whole circus from the jump, like some of us have.

HTH.
 
It is clean. Almost zero rust on frame or body.

So for the Harrops, I'm looking at:
1) get a FF axel off of a FZJ80.
2) Get Harrops and install.
3) $3000?


I'm gonna sound super stupid here: what is a semi and full float axle. And how does that differ from what I have in the FJ80?
 
Cruiserdrew said:
@wardharris

100's and 200's have semi-float rear axles. They just don't have c-clips, which is why the Harrops work with their 4 pinion design.

But the 80 series the original poster has, is a C-clip rear axle. Which is why he would have to swap in a later FF axle to make Harrops work.

For a wheeling truck an early 80 series would be great. Cheap, great suspension, decent motor. But once you start adding selectable rear lockers of any type it gets expensive fast. But spend it once and move forward. Obviously an FZJ80 does everything better, but nothing wrong with a 3FE.

Harrops cost $500 more only because that is the price of a non-locked junk yard rear full float 80 series axle. Which would be a direct swap into the OP's truck.
Click to expand...
@Cruiserdrew is correct - I often fail to clarify the difference between semi-float with C clips (FJ 80) and other rigs without C clips. Thanks, Andrew!

Not knocking the FJ, just suggesting caution on the spend. I have owned some 3Fs in my time (the carb version of 3FE with less poop than yours) and they do just fine. My caution would be not to spend "too much" unless you plan to enjoy/keep the rig and are OK if you don't get all your $$ out down the road.
 
I do plan on keeping the rig. It's only got 172k miles. It's clean and I enjoy overlanding.
Now, I'm beginning to question whether I actually need lockers. How much to they help with simple overlanding? I'm not a big rock crawler, not big mudder. (I'll get dirty, but I don't like breaking crap)
 
MKPNG said:
It is clean. Almost zero rust on frame or body.

So for the Harrops, I'm looking at:
1) get a FF axel off of a FZJ80.
2) Get Harrops and install.
3) $3000?
Click to expand...
Basically, yes. For the rear:
(1) Find the axle, refresh the brakes/bearings/etc. price dependant upon local market and your negotiating skills :) (2) Buy Harrop, carrier bearings, etc. for $1,194 and have the carrier/elocker/ring/pinion gears set up by someone who knows what they are doing like @gearinstalls.com (ship him your carrier) $400 with shipping (approx) (3) assemble axle and wire switch - install carrier in axle. Total $1,600 plus cost of axle

For the front:
(1) Buy Harrop, bearings, etc. for $1,200, (2) ship to @gearinstalls.com for set up, (3) assemble and install install carrier in axle. Total $1,600

Grand Total appprox. $3,200 plus FF axle from FZJ 80

MKPNG said:
I'm gonna sound super stupid here: what is a semi and full float axle. And how does that differ from what I have in the FJ80?
Click to expand...
Google or call me at the number in sig panel below. Will try to explain more efficiently than online texting.....

Good luck!

View attachment 1372740
 
MKPNG said:
I do plan on keeping the rig. It's only got 172k miles. It's clean and I enjoy overlanding.
Now, I'm beginning to question whether I actually need lockers. How much to they help with simple overlanding? I'm not a big rock crawler, not big mudder. (I'll get dirty, but I don't like breaking crap)
Click to expand...
I don't know if you need lockers, but it has been my experience is that locked rigs produce superior motive results with less wear, tear and stress on truck and driver.
 
MKPNG said:
It is clean. Almost zero rust on frame or body.

So for the Harrops, I'm looking at:
1) get a FF axel off of a FZJ80.
2) Get Harrops and install.
3) $3000?


I'm gonna sound super stupid here: what is a semi and full float axle. And how does that differ from what I have in the FJ80?
Click to expand...


Not stupid at all. You have things basically right. You could make the argument that what you have with just an ARB in the rear, would go almost anywhere. Or that the first thing to add is a winch.

It's all trade offs. If you run on fire roads, and stay out of the rocks, you don't need lockers. Lockers don't help in mud or sand. Much. A winch is good in all conditions.

The better question is where do you plan to go? Looking objectively at this, I'd add a rear locker, and a winch, then maybe a front locker.
 
I plan on getting out back into the bush. I grew up overseas, away from society and civilization. I want to get as close to that as possible in the US. Right now, I live in Texas, but will eventually move back (with the rig) to Oregon/Idaho area. Owyhee mountains and Sawtooths in Idaho are the end goal. A good hunting, camping, fishing, exploring rig is what I'm going after.
 
You can do things in stages, you know. Winch first, rear locker next and then finally a front locker if you need it. Many different ways to do this.
 
I just put Harrops in my 94. 1800 miles. No issues.
 
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