Locked up engine swap (1 Viewer)

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Quick question, what size wrench / socket are the torque converter bolts attaching it to the flex plate. Not diameter and pitch... Trying to see if a flex head wrench will get on them. None on the locked up engine currently line up with the access hole.
I want to say it was a 14 or 16….. I might be wrong but I feel like I was using those two a ton in my build. I can check for you tomorrow if no one else knows.
 
Be very mindful to get the black one installed first.
 
flex plate/ drive plate section from FSM EM book attached.
 

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Intake and fuel injection seals refurbished, coolant pipes refreshed, harness connector repaired, valve cover cleaned up, you would never know, very porous they hold onto filth and I was not wasting days scrubbing my brains out. I'm in "good enough" mode on this project, not perfection.

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Love seeing those old cable-actuated throttle-by-wire setups. They were genius. All the benefits of TBW when it works and a cable backup should it fail.
 
Love seeing those old cable-actuated throttle-by-wire setups. They were genius. All the benefits of TBW when it works and a cable backup should it fail.
Not being super knowledgeable about these when I picked it up, I thought it was broken at first or something. Only cracks the throttle plate like 10% at full throttle? Motor does the rest? When the replacement engine showed up in the same state I figured it was supposed to be that way, just really weird. Interestingly TBW seems to be one of those things that manufacturers got right the first time. I'm not aware of any vehicles plagued with throttle plate stepper motor issues.
 
The TPS is at the throttle body on the early 100s. The sensor drives the actuator motor which is the primary manipulator of the throttle plate. If the electronics fail, the last 1/3 or so of pedal travel will mechanically open it to prevent a stranding. Pretty brilliant.
 
are those Toyota intake gaskets? I don't see the white mark on them
 
After some downtime I got back after it with the goal of getting the engine to rotate so I could get the converter and flex plate off. I got the engine onto it's side and pulled two rod caps. They actually looked not bad at all. I was hoping for smoking gun evidence of a spun bearing but I didn't see anything. Then I yanked the upper oil pan and saw some bearing foil residue under the #5 main bearing. I pulled it and the damage was obvious. I had no hopes of salvaging this but that crank journal is smoked now. If someone wants a rebuilder 2UZ they can have it, otherwise I'm pulling the heads and the rest goes in the scrap bin.

Now that I have the parts off I can reassemble, but unfortunately my BMW decided to get air in the clutch circuit so I have to screw with that first.

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Today I worked on buttoning up some engine bay items and some things easier with the engine out. I drained and refilled the front diff, cleaned its breather cap, changed the coolant tees and heater hoses and reinstalled the torque converter after cleaning up a couple burrs on the pump spline. While I am on the transmission, I figured I would take the moment to drain it and change the transmission filter to get some new fluid in it when everything goes back in.

This is kind of a stupid question, but this is only the 2nd vehicle I have ever owned with an automatic transmission. When I reinstall the pan gasket, does it need any RTV on it, or is it just the rubber gasket with no schmear?
 
No it's has the special Toyota red FIPG.

No gasket.

You'll see when you pull the pan. It's a pain in the butt to get off. There's a thread somewhere about using a putty knife and starting with the back passenger corner.

Toyota part 00295-01281
 
Today I worked on buttoning up some engine bay items and some things easier with the engine out. I drained and refilled the front diff, cleaned its breather cap, changed the coolant tees and heater hoses and reinstalled the torque converter after cleaning up a couple burrs on the pump spline. While I am on the transmission, I figured I would take the moment to drain it and change the transmission filter to get some new fluid in it when everything goes back in.

This is kind of a stupid question, but this is only the 2nd vehicle I have ever owned with an automatic transmission. When I reinstall the pan gasket, does it need any RTV on it, or is it just the rubber gasket with no schmear?

Go with the FIPG advised above. The black rubber gaskets end up weeping.
 
No it's has the special Toyota red FIPG.

No gasket.

You'll see when you pull the pan. It's a pain in the butt to get off. There's a thread somewhere about using a putty knife and starting with the back passenger corner.

Toyota part 00295-01281
Interesting. I found a couple other posts that mentioned that the 4 speed doesn't actually use a filter and that it is just a debris screen? If there's the case I might just drain and refill at this time and deal with the screen later on sometime.
 
Engine went back in today with little drama. Unlike when I pulled it and could let the hoist tug the engine forward, I needed more clearance to get the engine further aft so I removed the lower headlight support. Unfortunately I broke another piece of trim removing the lights. The barbed connectors just will not let loose and no matter how hard you try to distribute the force, they cracked. Stupid choice using fiberglass for those pieces rather than ABS plastic.

Had to jack on the transmission a little too get the dowels to line up on the bellhousing, then I loosely secured the rear bolts on the motor mounts so I could lift only the front of the engine to get the right angle so the torque converter hub would slip into the crank. After that, securing the right motor mount was very easy because I left the alternator and power steering off which u figured out caused some of my trouble on that side.

The drivers side was still a son of a bitch to reach. I ran a tap through the motor mount and a thread chaser on the bolt to make reassembly as easy as possible. I was able to thread it by finger all the way to contact and managed to get a very long extension and a u joint extension and got it to bite. The front AC bolts fought much less but my nemesis rear AC bolt was again a huge pain in the ass. I ended up using a 1/4 drive ratchet to spin it down. Even with cleaned threads my fingers couldn't get enough grip on the sucker.

Watched too much football so that's as far as I made it. Will connect all the wires tomorrow. There's a couple I screwed up and didn't label. Should be fun.

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