Lo 4 questions

[mantutuli]

Is it normal for it to sort of clunk when you 1st step on the gas in lo 4? Almost feels like I would imagine it feeling like if the synchro's werent engaged/lined up and the trans spinning a little until it locks up a little "violently", as in not smoothly.

Theres nothing in the manual about it, but does it matter what gear I'm in? Is "D" just as valid a "S1"?

Is there a issue with being in Lo 4 AND having it in 50/50 tire mode(whatever you call it when you hit the button when you're in mud or ice just to get you out of a jam, and are suppose to disengage once you're on tarmac, for example and dont need the power to the wheels equal any more.

 

[re_guderian]

Is it normal for it to sort of clunk when you 1st step on the gas in lo 4? Almost feels like I would imagine it feeling like if the synchro's werent engaged/lined up and the trans spinning a little until it locks up a little "violently", as in not smoothly.

Theres nothing in the manual about it, but does it matter what gear I'm in? Is "D" just as valid a "S1"?

Is there a issue with being in Lo 4 AND having it in 50/50 tire mode(whatever you call it when you hit the button when you're in mud or ice just to get you out of a jam, and are suppose to disengage once you're on tarmac, for example and dont need the power to the wheels equal any more.

Mine is "clunky" from the start (but I also have a Pedal Commander throttle controller installed), and the shift from 1st to 2nd is not smooth either. Always been that way.

As to your "50/50" question, I think you are referring to the center diff lock? Yes, you should disengage that when you're in high-traction situations. Engage for off-road/dirt use where you need to ensure power to both front and rear axles.

I'm in "D" for the vast majority of time when in 4LO, the exception being when going down steep hills, I will keep it in "S1" to take a load off the brakes.

 

[Rednexus]

These really shouldn't be clunky in 4LO or 4HI. Chances are it's driveshaft related, either needing the slip yolks greased or needing a new rear driveshaft (if greasing doesn't really make it better). Replacing my rear driveshaft was $305 well-spent to have a clunk-free 17 year-old rig.

 

[185]

when putting into 4Lo, center lock, while in neutral and cold powertrain i get a clunk. After operational temp, no clunk.
That being said i have not been able to keep up with greasing the zerks as i should.

 

[Acrad]

I can’t recall hearing any noise when engaging CDL on mine.

4L is either silent or an actuator swoosh … maybe it is a soft crunch like sound in a good way.

Never any clunks or sounds that indicate it is not engaging.

I probably engage both at least once a month.. no more than every 2 months.. the last 7.5 years

 

[Hiluxforever]

I think the first few times I engaged it it may have clunked because the craziest thing it had ever thrown at it by its previous owner wa probably a purse.

I love yotas, but their transfer cases do sometimes bind and pop, especially if on a surface with lots of traction. Should not happen all the time, if so, it may be simple like a u joint, but we aren't always that lucky.

 

[K Dub]

I'll agree with what was said above. My truck makes a servo sound followed by a light "cachunk." I've had many different 4x4s over the years and they all give some sort of feedback. My old Jeep used to get bound up, and I'd have to reverse a couple feet before it would disengage. My 80 series felt like stirring a pot of tar at first, but loosened up over time and use. I sort of liked having an actual shift lever to the transfer case for that kind of mechanical feedback.

I believe the center differential lock engages any time you are in 4Lo. I don't think that there is a way to override that, but I might be wrong. As for your automatic transmission, the low range happens "downstream" of the transmission, so it should operate like normal. I think it holds shifts a bit longer, like in "sport" mode, but you should be able to accelerate all the way up to 6th gear in theory. I wouldn't advise it because your gears would be spinning like mad to go like <30mph, but theoretically it's possible. I tend to use the sport shift when in 4Lo, but that's just an old habit from my stick-shift days.

One semi-useful technique I've found is to put the transfer case in 4Lo, the trans in 2S, and activate the 2nd gear start in the menu. This locks me into a gearing slightly lower than 1st 4Hi, but also locks out the lowest gear that causes jerky motion if you aren't delicate with the throttle. It's good for engine braking on long downhills and moderate technical sections, but I don't use it for climbing because it takes a lot of fiddling to get back into 1st if I need it.

 

[Hiluxforever]

I am able unlock my center diff indepently of being in low range. I like it for tight maneuvers, others for boat ramps.

 

[Acrad]

+1

CDL is not engaged automatically and glad it doesn’t do that.

IMO.. awesome being able to use 4L unlocked in scenarios mentioned above

 

[K Dub]

+1

CDL is not engaged automatically and glad it doesn’t do that.

IMO.. awesome being able to use 4L unlocked in scenarios mentioned above

Now I've got to double check this. I feel like my CDL automatically engages whenever I select 4LO. I'm unsure if I can then disengage it while staying in low range, since I don't think I've ever tried it, but I'm pretty confident that it automatically engages the center diff and disables the traction control. I've definitely felt it binding up and scrubbing my front tires on tight corners, so I can imagine the benefit of unlocking as you and Hilux4eva describe.

I'll check for myself tonight when I get home. And then I'll triple check it on the trails this weekend. For science!

 

[Acrad]

That is not normal for CDL to automatically engage. Actually first time I have heard someone report that occurring on their 460… although I think that is normal behavior on the 80 and 100 series.

 

[K Dub]

That is not normal for CDL to automatically engage. Actually first time I have heard someone report that occurring on their 460… although I think that is normal behavior on the 80 and 100 series.

We'll see. I might be conflating it with the 80, or I might just be totally wrong. It wouldn't be the first time.

 

[Rednexus]

The CDL does not auto engage on these. With the CDL disengaged, they should not really clunk at all once low range is engaged. A normal 4x4 system might pop/clunk on a hard surface, or the GX system might do the same if the CDL is engaged on pavement, but otherwise these should be clunk-free. Popping etc us pretty abnormal.

That being said I had all of those noises and they all dissapeared with a new driveshaft. The clunk going in R was metallic and sounded like the T case chain skipping a tooth. It was just the slip yolk.

 

[mantutuli]

These really shouldn't be clunky in 4LO or 4HI. Chances are it's driveshaft related, either needing the slip yolks greased or needing a new rear driveshaft (if greasing doesn't really make it better). Replacing my rear driveshaft was $305 well-spent to have a clunk-free 17 year-old rig.

thanks!!! did you replace front and rear driveshafts

 

[mantutuli]

The CDL does not auto engage on these. With the CDL disengaged, they should not really clunk at all once low range is engaged. A normal 4x4 system might pop/clunk on a hard surface, or the GX system might do the same if the CDL is engaged on pavement, but otherwise these should be clunk-free. Popping etc us pretty abnormal.

That being said I had all of those noises and they all dissapeared with a new driveshaft. The clunk going in R was metallic and sounded like the T case chain skipping a tooth. It was just the slip yolk.

Did you replace front and read driveshafts?

 

[mantutuli]

Mine is "clunky" from the start (but I also have a Pedal Commander throttle controller installed), and the shift from 1st to 2nd is not smooth either. Always been that way.

As to your "50/50" question, I think you are referring to the center diff lock? Yes, you should disengage that when you're in high-traction situations. Engage for off-road/dirt use where you need to ensure power to both front and rear axles.

I'm in "D" for the vast majority of time when in 4LO, the exception being when going down steep hills, I will keep it in "S1" to take a load off the brakes.

Yes CDL is what I meant. thanks for the response

 

[mantutuli]

I'll agree with what was said above. My truck makes a servo sound followed by a light "cachunk." I've had many different 4x4s over the years and they all give some sort of feedback. My old Jeep used to get bound up, and I'd have to reverse a couple feet before it would disengage. My 80 series felt like stirring a pot of tar at first, but loosened up over time and use. I sort of liked having an actual shift lever to the transfer case for that kind of mechanical feedback.

I believe the center differential lock engages any time you are in 4Lo. I don't think that there is a way to override that, but I might be wrong. As for your automatic transmission, the low range happens "downstream" of the transmission, so it should operate like normal. I think it holds shifts a bit longer, like in "sport" mode, but you should be able to accelerate all the way up to 6th gear in theory. I wouldn't advise it because your gears would be spinning like mad to go like <30mph, but theoretically it's possible. I tend to use the sport shift when in 4Lo, but that's just an old habit from my stick-shift days.

One semi-useful technique I've found is to put the transfer case in 4Lo, the trans in 2S, and activate the 2nd gear start in the menu. This locks me into a gearing slightly lower than 1st 4Hi, but also locks out the lowest gear that causes jerky motion if you aren't delicate with the throttle. It's good for engine braking on long downhills and moderate technical sections, but I don't use it for climbing because it takes a lot of fiddling to get back into 1st if I need it.

thanks. the only other 4x4 i had was a 80s toyota sr5 (tacoma basically) with manual locking hubs. Thats said, I didnt experience any noises or anything

 

[mantutuli]

One semi-useful technique I've found is to put the transfer case in 4Lo, the trans in 2S, and activate the 2nd gear start in the menu.

What menu? How do you do that?

 

[r2m]

To answer one question that no one has posted yet, YES, you must disengage your 4Lo before you drive on tarmac, paved, cement, hard roads.
Personally, and this is from my old manual locking days, I also drive in reverse about 10 or 20 feet to make sure my front is completely unlocked. But I also have front and rear lockers, so I'm also ensuring that the ARB lockers are also unlocked.

I also do what K-Dub does with manual sifting up and down when in 4Lo since there isn't very much speed range in between gears in 4Lo and the variable terrain, I'm constantly shifting up and down.

And just to throw in a little pro tip, when you're in 4Lo and going over really rough terrain (rock gardens, ruts, stumps, etc.), at maybe 5 mph or so, use your left foot to brake and right foot to throttle. It will smooth out the jerkyness and keep you from bouncing and bottoming out on something hard. It takes a little practice but once you get used to it, it becomes second nature.

 

[Acrad]

2nd Start on your ‘21 is here..10-19 is in a steering wheel menu

https://lexusgxor.com/_media/general:2021_gx_460_owners_manual.pdf