LJ78 (more mods)

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he auto i have no concerns with, these are the other units that share the same tranny:
Transmission: A343F
4-SPEED RWD, 4X4
Select Manufacturer:
Select Model:
Make Model Year SubModel ET L CC CID F FD ED E-VIN ASP
LEXUS LX450 1996 L6 4.5 4477 GAS FI 1FZFE J N
LEXUS LX450 1997 L6 4.5 4477 GAS FI 1FZFE J N
LEXUS LX470 1999 V8 4.7 4663 285 GAS FI 2UZFE N
LEXUS LX470 2000 V8 4.7 4663 285 GAS FI 2UZFE N
TOYOTA LAND CRUISER 1995 L6 4.5 4477 GAS FI 1FZFE D N
TOYOTA LAND CRUISER 1996 L6 4.5 4477 GAS FI 1FZFE J N
TOYOTA LAND CRUISER 1997 L6 4.5 4477 GAS FI 1FZFE J N
TOYOTA LAND CRUISER 1998 V8 4.7 4663 285 GAS FI 2UZFE T N
TOYOTA TUNDRA 2000 V6 3.4 3378 GAS FI 5VZFE N
TOYOTA TUNDRA 2000 V8 4.7 4663 285 GAS FI 2UZFE N

the gearing bing 4.9 are perfect, it is the stress on the engine i am concerned about hence the desire to install a doubler for when the mud gets too deep...

you know, the LJ78 is a well designed unit that SHOULD last for 500,000 km if it wasn't for the problematic engine cooling system...
cheers
 
the lift is finished and will be testign the ride on Sunday...will report back then...
 
we will find out, on sunday there is a 1HZ swapped 80 coming along...

i am still waiting for information on the adapter for the A343F to a mini doubler.
i took another look under the truck and installing a doubler is not going to be an easy job.
---the tranny crossmember will need redesigning to go above the front driveshaft.
---the crossmember behind the t/case will need to be relocated.
---longer speedo cable (or adapter).
---new front and rear driveshafts
---new customer skid plate for under the t/case (i "might" try and make one that goes from the front of the tranny to the reat of the t/case)
---redo a section of the new exhaust system
---locate the shifter for the doubler through the floor

but 70-1 crawl would be nice and it would allow the engine to work less stressfull...
i hope i get info soon...
 
power is power, you may need less torque but more revs. I never found the power to be insufficient for offroad (non-rockcrawling) in my LJ70 with 235/85R16s, well maybe the really soft sand. With the auto you will have even more effective gearing. I say run it as-is and see how you like it. I think you will love it if you put 33 or 34ers instead of 36ers. You will only lose 1 or 1.5" or clearance but will work fine with the stock gearing.
I have been thinking an additionnal reduction box with a ratio of about 1.4 would be great for non-rockcrawling. 1.4 for the usual trails, 2.4 for the more technical stuff and 3.36 for the rocks would be about perfect with an auto.

BTW I just somehow put the LJ70 back to stock with the NA 2L with a slightly advanced timing, granted its not fast but the smoothness and reliability feeling are probably worth it :D
A 3L or 5L engine would be perfect for a KISS expedition LJ78 truck IMO. If you want to go anywhere fast just don't buy a landcruiser anyway.
 
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the reason i have decided to go with the doubler is because...
last weekend we had real bad snow for wheeling, crystalized powder. i was trying to climb a long hill off road and couldn't get enough traction to accelerate up the hill so slow and gentle was needed. problem was the engine needed to make a lot of torque just off idle to get the beast moving and the temp guage just kept slowly climbing up to the upper white line before i said screw it and backed back down. the auto gobbles up a LOT of power to get moving.
with a doubler then the crawl will be much easier on the engine and hopefully it will allow the engine to reach the upper revs quicker and reducing the load.
the truck has performed great off road for the last 2 years, high range mostly with decent speed. i have noticed with all autos the same problem when crawling.
time will tell...
 
Could it be related to a radiator packed with snow or anything like that ?
I have absolutely no experience with autos though. Throw an R151F in an call it good :D
 
no snow, the rad was clear. it was totally due to the load on the engine when starting out. i have noticed this in the past as well when it was dry and warm out...
i could go R151 but i wnat to give the auto a good test first, i really have grown attached to the auto for wheeling. this from a guy that wheeled manual Land Crusiers for the last 26 years...
 
Wayne,

That Prado you have has a A343 in it right? You have no worries there.

Climbing a snowy hill and the temp gauge went up?

Loaded down Prado?

I don't see the problem being solved by installing a manual wether it be a W56 or and R151/150.

I think you just missed your power point/curve with that load and your climb.

Please don't take any offence as I don't know snow conditions ( from Florida) and I have very seldom wheeled snow (Hiroshima mountain ranges only).. Seems my destinations are very hot and dry. I don't know why?


I think you will be wasting your effort doing an manual install. Hang out for a KZJ 78 and work the LJ78 for the time being.

Just Randy Talking Again,

Randy
 
Wayne,

That Prado you have has a A343 in it right? You have no worries there.

Climbing a snowy hill and the temp gauge went up?

Loaded down Prado?

I don't see the problem being solved by installing a manual wether it be a W56 or and R151/150.

I think you just missed your power point/curve with that load and your climb.

Please don't take any offence as I don't know snow conditions ( from Florida) and I have very seldom wheeled snow (Hiroshima mountain ranges only).. Seems my destinations are very hot and dry. I don't know why?


I think you will be wasting your effort doing an manual install. Hang out for a KZJ 78 and work the LJ78 for the time being.

Just Randy Talking Again,

Randy

empty truck no center or rear seats, one person. it is like driving on soft sand. lot of work to make forward momentum...espec with this grandualte snow, if it is packy or sticky then no problems at all...
i am not interested in going with the manual behind this aprticular motor (the -E version) since it has a sensitive throttle... the older 2LT were great as manuals...
 
external AT cooler separate from water rad. ? Or is it already ?

this is what i am thinking, intercool the engine and remove the AC setup...
it has a 3X3/4" core rad already...
 
nah, if i was to go down in size then it would be back to the Goodyear XT (31X15.5X15) they sit 31.5"tall with almost a full inch of tread depth and HUGE voids...
 
nah, if i was to go down in size then it would be back to the Goodyear XT (31X15.5X15) they sit 31.5"tall with almost a full inch of tread depth and HUGE voids...

why radical . ?

36" to 31" maybe 2" less clearance .. but with 34" you re in the power band and nice clearance .. ! I thought 10" of clearance with 8" 3rd members ..
 
cause the 31" X 15.5 " X 15" are a proven tire that performs great on stock rigs, great floatation and wicked traction... i ran these for decades now with excellent results...
i went up to 36" since there were no 34" tractor tires and 33" didn't seem enough of an increase to bother with the outlay of cash...
 
I got some little tractor tires on my tractor. They are 16 inch. Size is 6.50 r 16 I think. Not too big, but good paddles. And I have them studded :)
 

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