LJ78 2L-TE - blown? What to do... (1 Viewer)

[GreenPump]

would be a direct fit to my 2LTE block

It should be. I'd like to have someone else chime in on this one to make double sure. But my understanding is the heads are completely interchangeable. In fact all the FSM data is the exact same in my 3L/2L engine book, for almost everything.

You also have an option of buying the bare cylinder head and building it with toyota valvetrain parts (your machine shop can do this for a couple hours of labor). But I think the stuff HD sells is on par with OEM. Valvetrain parts are cheap, even for good Japanese parts.

Go on partsouq and price out the other stuff. If you need help making a list of what to order, I'm happy to assist.

Also look around for a machine shop to hone your block (and probably your crank). Go to a shop that works specifically on engines. They won't blink an eye at your 2L. To them it won't matter that it's a non domestic vehicle. I printed off my factory spec sheets and dropped it off, they didn't even look at it, and everything was perfect.

 

[JuanJ]

Hello,

It is possible to put in a 1UZ engine. However, fabrication/adaptation requires time and money.

Putting in a 1KZ engine or a replacement 2L-TE engine may also involve fabrication, and money.

Late model 2L heads are more reliable. It is possible to repair the engine using one of these heads. Less headache, less fabrication and less expensive.

Check @GTSSportCoupe 's threads for more information on how to make the 2L-TE engine more reliable.

If you do decide on repairing the 2L you have, make sure you let it idle for a while after sustaining high speeds/high rpms. It is a simple way to keep it in good shape. Remember that it is a rather small engine moving a big vehicle.





Juan

 

[Jonesey]

Hello,

It is possible to put in a 1UZ engine. However, fabrication/adaptation requires time and money.

Putting in a 1KZ engine or a replacement 2L-TE engine may also involve fabrication, and money.

Late model 2L heads are more reliable. It is possible to repair the engine using one of these heads. Less headache, less fabrication and less expensive.

Check @GTSSportCoupe 's threads for more information on how to make the 2L-TE engine more reliable.

If you do decide on repairing the 2L you have, make sure you let it idle for a while after sustaining high speeds/high rpms. It is a simple way to keep it in good shape. Remember that it is a rather small engine moving a big vehicle.





Juan

Thanks for the input. I have done a number of the reliability things, including: gauges to monitor coolant temp, boost, and EGT (first thing I did beyond normal fluid changes, new air filter and new fuel filter - about a year ago), air-air front mounted intercooler, 2.5" turbo-back custom exhaust, and EGR delete. I always let truck idle until EGT is below 400F and coolant temps drop back down to about 182F before turning truck off. All of those reasons are why rebuilding the 2LTE is likely where I'll go with this. It just burned a large amount of oil in short time and I didn't realize it had done that. Months prior I was only losing about 1/2 quart to a quart in the same timeframe.

 

[Jonesey]

Anyone know if this short block would work for my 1991 LJ78 2L-TE with auto trans? If yes, considering this route with a new 3L head instead of rebuilding bottom end.

engine TOYOTA 2.4 2L2 2LT short block new Hiace Hilux PickUp Surf Land Cruiser | eBay

Hiace Hilux PickUp Surf Land Cruiser. Hilux Surf. Hilux PickUP. Land Cruiser. TOYOTA 2.4 /LOADED short block. TOYOTA 2.4 short block. all new no core.

www.ebay.com

Or is this not a great idea, because of inferior quality (guessing this is reman/not genuine Toyota)?

 

[OGBeno]

Anyone know if this short block would work for my 1991 LJ78 2L-TE with auto trans? If yes, considering this route with a new 3L head instead of rebuilding bottom end.

engine TOYOTA 2.4 2L2 2LT short block new Hiace Hilux PickUp Surf Land Cruiser | eBay

Hiace Hilux PickUp Surf Land Cruiser. Hilux Surf. Hilux PickUP. Land Cruiser. TOYOTA 2.4 /LOADED short block. TOYOTA 2.4 short block. all new no core.

www.ebay.com

Contact them and ask.

 

[Houser]

The pictures do not look like a 2lte.

 

[OGBeno]

The pictures do not look like a 2lte.

The advertisement states that the picture is only for illustration. Which is why I absolutely would not buy that short block.

 

[Jonesey]

The advertisement states that the picture is only for illustration. Which is why I absolutely would not buy that short block.

I did write them, but yes, wow, good advice - last thing I need is a nightmare bad or wrong part. Thanks.

Planning to pull motor in coming weeks - my dad has a hoist in his shop, going to trailer it there and dig into it. I'll bring motor back to my garage, get an engine stand and start going through it.

 

[Ash Awbery]

I feel your pain, I was in a similar situation last year when my wife over heated my engine (my fault the radiator was filled with mud) I thought about a 1uz swap but fuel is expensive in the UK, so I wanted to keep it diesel, although I do have a 1uz engine and gearbox mounted to a LJ78 transfer case, no idea how well that was done as I never used it.

I also wanted to keep it auto so I decided to take a 1kz-te from a Hilux surf, mounted the engine/bellhousing/torque converter to my LJ78 gearbox, first I tried to make the 1kz-te pump work with my ecu but couldn’t get the fueling right, I then tried the 2lte injection pump but it also wouldn’t run right.

In the end I fitted a Mitsubishi 4M40 manual injector pump, mainly because I already had one and 1kz-t pumps are rare, even though the were actually sold in the UK! I got some really good info from the guys on this forum.

I got a Spitronics aftermarket gearbox controller but haven’t fitted it yet, I am currently running the Auto as a manual and really like the control of the gearshift and the ease of the T/C.

The wife still doesn’t mind driving it either!

 

[Jonesey]

I feel your pain, I was in a similar situation last year when my wife over heated my engine (my fault the radiator was filled with mud) I thought about a 1uz swap but fuel is expensive in the UK, so I wanted to keep it diesel, although I do have a 1uz engine and gearbox mounted to a LJ78 transfer case, no idea how well that was done as I never used it.

I also wanted to keep it auto so I decided to take a 1kz-te from a Hilux surf, mounted the engine/bellhousing/torque converter to my LJ78 gearbox, first I tried to make the 1kz-te pump work with my ecu but couldn’t get the fueling right, I then tried the 2lte injection pump but it also wouldn’t run right.

In the end I fitted a Mitsubishi 4M40 manual injector pump, mainly because I already had one and 1kz-t pumps are rare, even though the were actually sold in the UK! I got some really good info from the guys on this forum.

I got a Spitronics aftermarket gearbox controller but haven’t fitted it yet, I am currently running the Auto as a manual and really like the control of the gearshift and the ease of the T/C.

The wife still doesn’t mind driving it either!

Nice! Thanks, yes, painful. Head gasket definitely went out in addition to rod knock sound I was hearing. After sitting in garage for a couple weeks, there is coolant on cardboard that I've had under it - near front of engine. Exhaust manifold side of engine is dry, intake side is wet and oily.

I took glow plugs out and turned it over a couple times with hopes of spraying out any coolant/water that may have gotten into cylinders - fear of rust. I have now drained oil, removed filter and drained coolant, as well.

That sounds like an interesting setup - curious to learn more about the auto-as-manual function.

 

[Jonesey]

Here are a couple photos from initial take apart - a lot of oil post turbo. Took intercooler piping off, pulled glow plugs, pulled head cover.

 

[GreenPump]

Definitely a wet looking glow plug. Is that antisieze on there or some kind of metallic muck out of the cylinder???

Also I'd definitely stay away from that built bottom end. Do it yourself and be sure. Crap parts will be a nightmare later.

 

[Jonesey]

Definitely a wet looking glow plug. Is that antisieze on there or some kind of metallic muck out of the cylinder???

Also I'd definitely stay away from that built bottom end. Do it yourself and be sure. Crap parts will be a nightmare later.

Agree re: crap parts, thanks for that advice / encouragement. Also glad you made glow plug comment, I had same thought. They did come out quite easily. Last owner told me they changed them, so they've been in there between 18-24 months. Hoping it's anti-seize. The silvery look of it on my hands upon wiping them off/seeing it drip down plug had me concerned, but I do think it looks like anti-seize.

 

[GreenPump]

The silvery look of it on my hands upon wiping them off/seeing it drip down plug had me concerned, but I do think it looks like anti-seize.

It's probably antiseize. I broke off a glow plug earlier this month and had to extract it. That's something you DON'T want to get "stuck" doing.

However that is like 10x the amount you need for those threads. When you reinstall you can use a bit.. but I think the p/o used a putty knife for that stuff.