LJ70 - Several Problems (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Apr 4, 2006
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3
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3
VIN/Chassis/Frame No: JT1V0LJ700XXXXXXX

1.) It has had a complete new clutch installed. After I got back the 1st time, the clutch seemed to slip when I accelerated hard (foot flat) in 4th. I then returned it to the garage where they said they couldn't find anything wrong, but replaced the clutch anyway(plate only I think) now it grates. (only noticed grating when putting it into reverse. Got vehicle back only yesterday.)

2.) It seems that the turbo on my LJ70 is going (leaking oil back through the inlet) I am looking for a replacement and would like to know what turbos to look for and if there is a replacement I can put on other than the standard one that will give me increased performance? Any issues I should look out for etc?

3.) Centrel Locking, I am able to use the remote control and door switch to unlock the vehicle but when I try to use either to lock the vehicle only the alarm activates but non of the door lock. I have disconnected the batteries for an hour to try and reset the system but this seems to have had no affect. Any ideas what may be causing this.

Thanks
 
3. assuming that you have the same door lock system as me HJ-60 GNMLS I suppose you know, the reverse polarity system that Japan genius are using in our trucks ..
 
1. Do you have the dual-mass flywheel? The stock springs are prone to failure if abused.

2. Stuck rings (and other things) can cause crankcase compression blowing oil past the turbo seals via the oil return pipe. Your engine is probably all gummed up the way a lot of the imports are. They never get to work hard enough or long enough in Japan it seems. Change the oil and go climb Anarchist Mountain or your nearest equivalent.* Repeat as necessary and you should get your rings freed off. Fit Toyota oil filter 90915-30002 or Baldwin BD7029 first.

* Make that Table Mountain if you're in Zouth Afrika.;)
 
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and before you change the oil stick a litre of ATF in and drive it for about 100k, drain and add your oil and do the above suggestion.
i usually recommend driving the trucks for a bit before panicing into a turbo rebuild...
the above advice from Previa is sound...
 
I am going to try this in the next few days to clean out the system in my newly purchased LJ71 . I have heard about the adding of some ATF to the oil.

On another thread I read that the oil change spec's are for 5000 km's and the oil filter at 10,000. My manual also says the same thing.

I think that I will stick with the 5 and 5 for both especially with the ATF in the system to clean it out.

Also I saw some Quaker State 15-40 semi -syn. oil at Lordco. Does any one have any input on this oil for summer use ?.

Thanks.
 
The point of frequent oil & filter changes on a new-to-you vehicle is to clean out any accumulations. A lot of crud you free off will continue to circulate in the oil/engine unless your filter is the two-stage kind that catches everthing down to less than a micron or two. The other choice is a separate bypass filter. Those who like to floor the pedal are going to create a lot of dirt in their oil via the EGR from over-fueling , as well as bore wash (excess fuel 'washes' oil off cylinder walls causing wear)

Push a ball bearing into the vacuum hose that goes to the top of your EGR. That will do a lot to keep the engine clean by preventing the EGR from opening and feeding exhaust soot into your inlet manifold.
 
Previa Diesel said:
Push a ball bearing into the vacuum hose that goes to the top of your EGR. That will do a lot to keep the engine clean by preventing the EGR from opening and feeding exhaust soot into your inlet manifold.

I don't understand. Are you suggesting to block the blowby tube? Where will the blow by go? Back pressure on the turbo oil dump can't be good.

As far as filter change schedules go, I think the 'swap the filter only every other oil change' program is false economy. The cheaper filters are already clogged and bypassing oil long before the oil change interval. I've seen reports of filters doing it in less than 1000 km. I say swap the filter and oil, often. Even if you use the cheapest oil it'll do more to extend the life of your engine than anything else.
 
I
don't understand. Are you suggesting to block the blowby tube? Where will the blow by go? Back pressure on the turbo oil dump can't be good.

This is the vacuum tube that activates the EGR, not the tube that goes from the valve cover to the turbo inlet.

As far as filter change schedules go, I think the 'swap the filter only every other oil change' program is false economy. The cheaper filters are already clogged and bypassing oil long before the oil change interval. I've seen reports of filters doing it in less than 1000 km. I say swap the filter and oil, often. Even if you use the cheapest oil it'll do more to extend the life of your engine than anything else.

Agreed. The only thing better than frequent full-flow filter changes is a remote bypass filter that you can change without draining the oil. Oil doesn't wear out, (unless burned) it just gets dirty. Who wants to pour away Mobil 1 at $38.00 for 4 litres? Toilet paper is still the cheapest and best filter element made.
 
I am not 100% sure where the EGR is.

Is it the small looking UFO thing that is near the firewall that has a small hose coming out of it and then connects to another small plastic fuel finter looking item .Thats what it looks like in my LJ71.

If you do block off the tube, say on a permenent basis , will there be any long term harm / effects to the engine or anything else.?

Thanks.
 
108Cruz said:
I am not 100% sure where the EGR is. Is it the small looking UFO thing that is near the firewall that has a small hose coming out of it and then connects to another small plastic fuel finter looking item .Thats what it looks like in my LJ71. If you do block off the tube, say on a permenent basis , will there be any long term harm / effects to the engine or anything else.?/QUOTE]

Yes, it's the UFO: "Useless f$(%*#g object":D

No, blocking it off will not cause any harm. Many others have done so with only beneficial results. It is a "pollution control" device, and since intercoolers are used to cool down inlet air, heating it up with exhaust gasses seems pointless to me. Basically it's a way of stuffing soot back into your engine, for your oil and filter to remove - hopefully.

Put the ball bearing into the vacuum hose that goes to the top of it and that should prevent it from opening.
 

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