Agree, i love how tight my truck is with the rear spooled
lincoln locker or not
- Thread starter CruisinFJ60
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Agree, i love how tight my truck is with the rear spooled
I Had mine welded, and switched to an Aussie.
Would you Rather spend $200 now on a locker, Or burn through $100+ in tires each year?
I Eat 1/2 a set of SX swampers in one summer DDing my Cruiser..
Im very used to how the aussie works now, and it never bothers me.
Would you Rather spend $200 now on a locker, Or burn through $100+ in tires each year?
I Eat 1/2 a set of SX swampers in one summer DDing my Cruiser..
Im very used to how the aussie works now, and it never bothers me.
What I would do.
Weld the diff of the Fj40. I could DD mine with a welded rear. I rather drive my powerstroke tho (Powerwindors =) and ac and radio lol )
Leave the front axle alone. Just swap rear with 60 40. weld the 60s if you wheel with it more
Weld the diff of the Fj40. I could DD mine with a welded rear. I rather drive my powerstroke tho (Powerwindors =) and ac and radio lol )
Leave the front axle alone. Just swap rear with 60 40. weld the 60s if you wheel with it more
I run a welded rear and Aussie'd front in my 40 and it seems to behave very predictably on pavement. Not a lot of miles though, mostly dirt roads everywhere we take it.
Be sure to leave enough room to get the C clips in and the crossblock, seems like I remember having to grind my tack welds after a test fit. Dunno been a while since I did any work to my LC...ready to quit carpentry and get back to welding
Be sure to leave enough room to get the C clips in and the crossblock, seems like I remember having to grind my tack welds after a test fit. Dunno been a while since I did any work to my LC...ready to quit carpentry and get back to welding
- Thread starter
- #25
so i know brian said the 60 was to heavy for a welded diff but your suggesting it isnt... I dont really cary anything in the 60 that i dont need, my spare crap stays at camp for the most part, all i really carry is some straps, cooler full of beer, maybe some food, my dog, and some oil and gear lube in case of leaks or a roll over.
anyone else on this as well? ive already busted 2 stock rear axles on the 60... i plan on some polys and much larger tires and longs up front. my goal is 39.5's eventually but 37-38 to be my next tire purchase for the 60.
like i said the 60 is 99.999% dedicated wheeler.
Im kinda feeling like a welded rear will be for the most part ok, i know it wont have any variance when turning but when driving and turning with the detroit it locks the rear anyhow... so i figure same stresses only much more constant... im good about keeping tire pressures even at all 4 wheels when driving and wheeling to help alleviate any additional stress...
get a bigger axle
- Thread starter
- #28
ARB rear, detroit front
Steers MUCH easier
HUGE amounts of money i do not have.
The rear of my 80 (the grocery getter) is welded and I haven't had any issues due to weight, but the 80 axle is a different animal than the 60 rear axle....
I would weld the rear of the 60, put the detroit in the front of the 60.... Then...
Find a full floater with disks out of a 80 and swap it into the rear of your 60....
By the time you break the welded rear 60 axle, you can then put the 80 axle under it.....
The 40, I would weld it and call it a day. I ran my mudder/daily driver with the rear end welded with 35's years ago. Just don't drive like a nut and you will be fine....
As others have said, just don't weld the clips that hold the axle shafts in.
I would weld the rear of the 60, put the detroit in the front of the 60.... Then...
Find a full floater with disks out of a 80 and swap it into the rear of your 60....
By the time you break the welded rear 60 axle, you can then put the 80 axle under it.....
The 40, I would weld it and call it a day. I ran my mudder/daily driver with the rear end welded with 35's years ago. Just don't drive like a nut and you will be fine....
As others have said, just don't weld the clips that hold the axle shafts in.
- Thread starter
- #30
well if i weld the rear on the 60 and move the detroit up front i will have the aussie to drop in the 40, the is currently in the front of the 60.
but you having a welded rear in your 80 makes me feel a little better about welding up the 60 since you have got to be a good bit heavier than my 60.
as far as swappin in an 80 axle if im gonna do a swap of something hat was never designed to go under the truck it will get my spare Dana 80 or a 14 bolt.
kling-on
Kool Arrow
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I drove for years with the welded rear in my Brown 60 its not bad at all... the 40 is a shorter wheel base but weld it up worst case swap the spiders out of the 60 in if you dont like it .....on the other hand just bring the BJ40 to me and take the truggy home 
- Thread starter
- #32
i do love patches...
I welded the front and rear on my fj 40 I used arctec hi nickle rods to weld the rear and the front is welded with a lincoln 180 mig let em cool slow. havent had any problems with the rear except i twisted a drivesahft off but a traction bar solves that. front was a bit hard to steer but if you give it more gas it seems to help. better now I have a ram assist and its super nice still havent blown a birf and im running stokers with 37 iroks
- Thread starter
- #34
good enough for me.
I guess next time i get into the front of the 60 or change the diff fluid ill move the detroit from back of 60 to front front diff will be welded and moved out back and the aussie from the front of the 60 will go to the back of the 40.
that is if i dont for some reason get into the 40 first and weld it up.
I guess next time i get into the front of the 60 or change the diff fluid ill move the detroit from back of 60 to front front diff will be welded and moved out back and the aussie from the front of the 60 will go to the back of the 40.
that is if i dont for some reason get into the 40 first and weld it up.
wow, that's a LOT of freaking work
- Thread starter
- #36
I know... im Not excited about it either.
My experience would say if your gonna weld a diff weld the front on a selectable rig. Ive run spooled rear ends and hate it. Now I run an aussie and love it even in the snow and ice. An aussie in the rear and a lincoln up front done the "right" way is in my humble opinion the way to go unless you've got lotso bucks
rusty_tlc
Dain Bramaged Member
At least he gets to work in a controlled emvironment, the last time I did a diff shell game it was no fun at all.
- Thread starter
- #39
I dont wan to weld the front cause then any time the hubs are locked regardless of being in 2wd or 4wd there will be no differentiation of the front to tires and in a slick environment that would go against me.
with an auto locker up front if in in 2wd or coasting it will allow differentiation of the front 2 tires which will help aid in turning.
it may not really be noticable but thats just how id rather do it if im gonna weld one.
as far as a welded rear i dont really know what i wouldnt like if its the tires always making noise its not a big deal as i dont see much street time in the 60.
At least he gets to work in a controlled emvironment, the last time I did a diff shell game it was no fun at all.
i know how that goes, snapped a rear axle up a steep dirt hill and couldnt get the peice from the diff so i had to drop the third to swap it for a spare in the dirt on my back in the damn cold and it was dark quick.
I have had both and ez locker in the rear and now i'm welded. Both front and rear are now lincoln locked. Have been for 4 years. Ultimate traction poor on road manners. The downfall to welding the front is definatley steering. It does take some effort and sometimes it wants to go where it wants to. Good luck.
