Lil help from the 80series crew...

[Tools R Us]

Ahh,, thats what I was thinking...it seems the correct fix would be to cut and turn on higher lifts or go with true custom setup.

Doesn't matter if you cut and turn, grind the brackets and weld washers, use custom brackets, whatever, when the knuckles are turned the tie rod goes with them and hits the arms, at what about the proper correction for a 4" lift?

 

[Walking Eagle]

I dont know how easy it is going to be to cut them off and re-weld them( control arm brackets on he axle). I'll have to check after work tonight.

TiredIron didn't seem to have alot of trouble cutting them off and re-welding them on Volvo portal axles. And the flip weld up actually looks quite easy - comparatively. One advantage of the flip that is probably often overlooked is it moves the axle back forward. At 6", with stock arms under, it pulls that front axle back quite a bit - which is why slee's arms for 6" are longer.

I actually thought the arm flip thread got interesting around post 13.... "Yeh.... Toyota" bong bong bong....

 

[FJBen]

Doesn't matter if you cut and turn, grind the brackets and weld washers, use custom brackets, whatever, when the knuckles are turned the tie rod goes with them and hits the arms, at what about the proper correction for a 4" lift?

been one of those days... With Slee's arms on there currently I have about 1 ~1.5" clearance on the arms and I'm at 4.5* caster. I "suspect" with MY axle (initial caster) I could go up another 3" without too much caster worry...

Soo...a better solution would be a semi-non-existant high steer arm that someone was making for a little bit...LOL...IF you are going to cut & turn that far.

 

[landtank]

I've read some concern about the cut and turn method as far as lubricating the diff gears. Since you won't be rotating the diff it will point down more which will naturally set you up on short fills and not get lube up to the pinion bearing. It was talked about relocating the fill plug on the diff to compensate for this.

 

[concretejungle]

I think the arm flip method seems fairly easy compared to building a 3link. Just cut the bracket off, put it on top and tilt axle until desired castor, weld.

 

[lowtideride]

Concrete, Cutting them off would destroy them, So you would have to make new ones that would not be that big of a deal.

Land tank,
That would be the least of my worries. Its a such low speeds anyway... But a thought non the less. I would imagine that a spinging ring gear in diff fluid at speed would throw it everywhere. You could also just pull a stud near the top and fill it from the top , would be kinda a pain though.

 

[Tools R Us]

Concrete, Cutting them off would destroy them, So you would have to make new ones that would not be that big of a deal.

With a little care I bet they could be removed and be reusable?

Land tank,
That would be the least of my worries. Its a such low speeds anyway... But a thought non the less. I would imagine that a spinging ring gear in diff fluid at speed would throw it everywhere. You could also just pull a stud near the top and fill it from the top , would be kinda a pain though.

The 80 pinion is made to point up, it has an oil storage ring and a fan looking oil slinger to oil the rear bearing. To over fill, if even needed, just jack up the front of the truck?

 

[semlin]

Concrete, Cutting them off would destroy them, So you would have to make new ones that would not be that big of a deal.

lowtide, talk to tiredirongrb. he managed to cut the control arm brackets off and weld them onto portals.

http://tired-iron.mounet.com/Grace4x4/GRBTLC/GRBTLC02.htm

 

[lowtideride]

Well it looks like I will be flipping the control arms. It seems like the path to take at this point. Thanks guys for the help.

 

[semlin]

excellent decision. now get'er done!

 

[FJBen]

How many people have done this flip kit in the US? Anyone?

 

[semlin]

no one has to my knowledge. I think it is in theory the best possible reasonably cheap caster/driveshaft solution for big lifts so I'm dying to see how it turns out for Al.

 

[FJBen]

no one has to my knowledge. I think it is in theory the best possible reasonably cheap caster/driveshaft solution for big lifts so I'm dying to see how it turns out for Al.

It appears this will only work on the 6" + lifts? Or are there ways to get away with it on 4" lifts?

 

[semlin]

I don't know if the brackets can be located for proper caster on a 4" lift. is it addressed in that oz thread?

 

[Walking Eagle]

Well it looks like I will be flipping the control arms. It seems like the path to take at this point. Thanks guys for the help.

Let us know how it works out. Step by step photo's of course....

 

[Tools R Us]

I don't know if the brackets can be located for proper caster on a 4" lift. is it addressed in that oz thread?

It's not about caster, it's fitting the big stock arms between the axle and frame and still having good compression travel. With the arms on top, you have to extend bump stops so the arms don't hit the frame. With a bigger lift the bump stops need to be extended to protect the longer shocks, so there's no/little travel loss, on a shorter shock lift the bump stops take away from an already short shock travel range.

 

[lowtideride]

I will let you guys know how it turns out....should be fun.