Light switch replacement (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Jun 3, 2023
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Location
idaho
Hi folks,
I am looking for a replacment for a failed older headlight switch, complete with 10 amp fuse (attached). I did try to clean the old one up, but no lights. Where can I find a replacment or newer tech that will hook into my existing wiring.
Grateful for any guidance. 1965 FJ

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That is not the correct switch for your vehicle. Your wire harness may also have been modified. Using aftermarket or non-original parts can work, but you'll need to verify what has been modified in your electrical system before simply installing an original switch as a replacement. Time to start tracing where each wire goes. Good luck.
 
The switch looks to be in reasonable condition. Are you sure that the problem is the switch rather than elsewhere in the wiring?
Can you flash your high beam from the stick for example?
 
You could take that switch apart and fix it if its broken. +1 Use the wiring diagram and a VOM plus a test light to make sure your wiring is functional and to test the bulbs. Inspect, clean and lube (dielectric grease) all the connections.

That fuse holder looks like it has corrosion on it, the outside is less important than the inside where the fuse in. Disconnect the battery and do your fuse box too. 30 cal bore brush works good on the ears of the clip type fuse holder.
 
The switch looks to be in reasonable condition. Are you sure that the problem is the switch rather than elsewhere in the wiring?
Can you flash your high beam from the stick for example?

Flashing the high beam headlights didn't start until the 78 model. Up to 9/67 it was a rotary switch. It had an option to just turn on the tail lights.
 
The switch looks to be in reasonable condition. Are you sure that the problem is the switch rather than elsewhere in the wiring?
Can you flash your high beam from the stick for example?
No high beam or low beam at this point. Lights are newer, can’t find any wire glitches, yet. Thanks for the response
 
Here is a option for correct switch.
That looks great. I assume it would work in my current wiring set up with the 4 wires for ground , high, low and tail lights?
 
Ah my bad, the earlier wiring is different..

In this case I'd first check which pin has a 12V feed from the fuse box (black lead to chassis, red lead to each pin in turn).
I'll assume that you have an electrical test meter since you have a '40 and you'll definitely need it from time to time, plus they cost nothing now.
Next, I'd test resistance between each other pin and chassis - you'd expect to see one or two ohms due to the various (cold) lamp filaments in parallel.
If they're reading open circuit then your problem lies elsewhere.

Next, use a short length of wire or anything metal to jump across from the feed pin to any other pin. Some lights should come on.

If they do then your switch is probably corroded inside and you can pull it apart.
If they don't, then you've got a problem elsewhere.

Good luck
 

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