Lifting my 4Runner

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tlcruiser66

tlcruiser66

Joined
Sep 4, 2006
Threads
27
Messages
698
Location
Western Wa.
Okay guys, i'm probably gonna have a few questions for you guys eventually as this is my first stock truck i've spent any real time modifying. My goal is to keep this thing clean and not too crazy, just want something to have fun with while i'm finishing my Cruiser.

Alright, to start off its a 1985 4Runner thats at stock height and with stock tire size. I've got a set of 35" Bias Claws that I was gonna use on the Cruiser but now those are gonna be a little small so I figure hell may as well put em on here. I'm a little lost as to how much lift is going to be required to get these to fit while at full flex.

I'm prepared to do some cutting on this thing as the rear fenders already have some good rust on them and need some trimming anways. I'm not interested in being the highest rig at the mall, I just want to get the best artictulation I can while keeping a good low center of gravity.

Second thing I want to know about is on Pirate i've read a bunch about putting rear springs on the front to stretch out the wheelbase some and to improve my approach angle, is there anything I need to know about this other than just a spring change, and what kind of lift should I run on these springs to gain the same lift as the rear? Am I gonna run into many other problems with driveline length or steering geometry, they weren't real specific about the consequences of this conversion.


Thanks Guys,

Kevin
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Probably need anywhere from 5-6" to clear them with out rubbing. You could get away with a 4" lift and a little trimming. The spring swap is putting the rears up front with moves the axle forward then getting 63" chevy 1/2 ton springs and put them in the rear. You will have to create new mounts but it should flex better. Just throw a 4 inch lift shouldnt have ot modify driveshafts then cut a little to make them fit. that is my .02
 
How far forward will the front axle move with the new springs installed? I'm just a little concerned about the steering geometry changing, I don't want to run into any binding issues after doing this.
Thanks for your input theside00, the only thing i'm worried about with a 5-6" lift would be stiffness of the springs and lack of flex that usually comes with these. Sounds like i'll probably end up going with the 4" lift, but what kind of differences would the rears on the front make, usually fronts have a higher spring rate to accomidate for the weight of the engine and I don't want to end up having my rig raked forward.
 
Normally people make a custom leaf pack for the front using good rear springs. I believe that the front will move forward by about an inch or so. If you go this route it is supposed to flex really good and it will give you about a 3 inch lift then most people run longer shackles to get a little more lift. I got 4 inch marlin springs on mine and it rides great dont know what stock was though. I am going to take off the little flat part on the outer edge of the fenders, the 1 to 2 inch vertical strip and just fold it under and I should be able to clear 35's no problem. I dont know what your stock gears are but you might want to regear to at least 4:88's I am going to go to 5:29's in case I want to go to 37's.
 
I was planning on 4.88s and regearing the transfer to 5 to 1. Would like to go to a doubler, but i've been dealing with driveline issues on my Cruiser and dont' want the same thing with this one.
 
If you do rears up front, it moves your front axle 2" foreward. This MAY cause problems with clearance on your stock drag link/tie rod on full stuff/droop. I have read that some people have built front packs out of rears that did not interfere with steering, where as others have had issues. Most people insist that crossover or high steer is a must for this modification. I suggest saving for a high steer kit from Marlin Crawler and an IFS box because cutting corners on steering is not a wise idea. best bet is to build your leaf packs, put them on and see how steering looks. If there is interference, invest in an aftermarket steering set up.

Here is my 85 runner. I am running a 2" 4x4 Labs drop box, moved 1.5" foreward with stock jeep wagoneer front leaf springs and a 6" shackle. Out back I have stock 63" chevies, dual shackles with the stock chevy shackle and a 6" toyota shackle. As you can see, it sits a little raked. If you consider doing chevies and a drop box, I suggest using 2" lifted 63 chevies to obtain a level lift all the way around. To solve my sagging problems I am just going to run a 4" rear drop shackle hanger (equates to 2" of lift) so I can keep my stock chevies. Waggies and chevies are a cheap way to get a lot of flex without mall crawler lift status. My fenders are also hacked about 2.5" all the way around and those are 35x12.50s.

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I'm too lazy to search, how bout' I just ask since you've already done the hard work.
What year are those front Wagoneer springs come off and what did you get your 63" Chevys off?
What kind of mods are required to install these springs, moving your spring mounts or installing new perches?
Like I said, i'm just too lazy to search, help me out.

Thanks guys, Kevin
 
Great, that solves the problem of the rears, now all I need to know is about the wagoneer fronts, thanks guys.
 
Here are a couple pics of my 86 4runner with 5" springs front and rear from Trail Gear they are super flexy on the 4runners.The front spring measure 47" long w/22" from center pin to center of front eye and 25" from ceter pin to center of rear eye.Rear springs measure 56 5/8" long and measure 27 1/2" from center pin to center of front eye 29 5/8" from center pin to center of rear eye.
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You can get these springs from Trail Gear,Marlins and All Pro.They are same but different manufactures.Dont waste the time to try and build springs just buy new one and bw done with it.I have gone that route its pain if you have to search for good used crap.Just my .02.
 
So, I see from the pics in your other thread that your rear end sags pretty far down, i'd really like to try to find some way to keep my rig as low as possible and still be able to stuff those 35's in there.

Your rig does look really good though and thanks for the advice.
 
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No actually my 4runner sits high in the back.That picture was taken on a hill in parents front yard.I will get another shot on flat ground and post it.
 
Just for comparison sake, here is my 85 4Runner with a complete OME 2.5" lift (new springs, shocks, shackles, etc.). Unfortunately I didn't take before and after measurements but I believe this lift is more like 4" over where it was (maybe 4" back and 2"+ front?). I went with heavy springs front and medium rear with heavy shocks all around. The ride is great, IMHO.

As you can see, I could easily run 33's with no trouble at all. Those are new 31" BFG MT's in the photo. If you're willing to use a sawzall then I think you could run 35" but you might get some rubbing. Those fender flares are Bushwacker extend-a-fender. You could probably cut and use Bushwacker cut-out flares.

I did run into a problem with my draglink hitting the OME "special" flat U-Bolts (stock U-Bolts won't come close to working) and solved that problem by installing a Procomp drop draglink. If you go high-steer then this won't an issue.

I only wrote this post because you mentioned that you wanted to stay as low as possible and still fit the 35" tires.

BTW, you should do some more research on gear ratios, I think I would go to 5.29 if I was running 35" tires.
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I firgured that the 4.88 and a mild tune on the engine would give me enough umph on the street and the 5 to 1 low transfer gears would give me that added crawl ratio while offroading.

I think you may be right about the 4" lift though, with some added trimming I should be able to keep it nice and low and still be able to stuff with minimal rubbing.

I've got a large local 4wd swapmeet here this weekend and i'll see what they have to offer. I should be able to find a lift there, either something in a stock-type setup or a Chevy rear and Waggoneer front setup.

Hopefully i'll be able to decide by then, so don't stop sending your suggestions. I really need your guys input on this, I don't want to make a decision without having all the information I know you guys have to offer.

And keep those pics of those great lifted 1st gens coming.

Thanks

Kevin

And by the way WarDamnEagle, that is one clean Runner you got there.
 
Heres a shot of my runner on level ground.
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Your 85 4runner will sit lower than my 86 4runner just because ot the frame.With same lift your truck will sit about 2" lower than mine.
 
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I am pretty sure you can use any year front wagoneer springs. I just went to a junkyard and took the first set of front springs i could find on a wagoneer, didnt even look at the year. its a good idea to do a drop box with the waggys because they are several inches longer than stock. chevy springs you want to use the springs off of the 90s body style chevy trucks, something like 88-98. sorry i dont have specifics, check the Toyota Faq on Pirate4x4.coms toyota board for exact measurements on the waggys and chevys as well as any other info you may need.
 
Waggy springs I beleave are around 47" long and the rear chevys are 88-98 are 63" and 99-on up are 65".You might also look at some new Tundra springs they are 65" also.
 
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