Lifted 80 drives like krap,, I'm thinking of going back to stock ride height

[billymagg]

Quoted directly from the man that REALLY knows.

Call a human in a parts department.

@OGBeno

Yes, I found a full set in Florida, so they are on the way... sway bar bushings came today, and tie rod ends are here as well. Now I need to get under there and flush away 3 or 4 more layers of crud, so I can see what I'm doing.. I am having a little difficulty getting on the radiator drain plug.. it will need a bit of persuasion to loosen.

 

[billymagg]

My notes on the OE / Tokico shocks from when I purchased them for my 97.

Your 94 may require different shocks as there were various changes made to 80s over the years and that's where research or chatting with a parts pro comes in.

right/passenger rear shock	48531-69485		$25.00	https://partsouq.com/en/catalog/genuine/unit?c=Toyota&ssd=$*KwFoXE1EOD0oJA09NxdcTDAkBAMdbGNub31jUSF5KH9geQZ8Ly9yeGFuICQuNTpDdjM5Mjh_YGlwfGVkdXhhfmlia2h8Ly94NHlmf25jbGk7NFJ4JiIrMz8cJSFucnhhfH9tYm1tNz0zdnt-NC55Zn4hXVAIGhF_dnt-M2AvK3p5GgcQY2wSLkpSCh4XC3h3fHx1bjNgezIoNjdwfiFreD55Zn1paiEAAAAAnLE5NQ$&vid=0&cid=2&uid=335070&q=	48531-69485 Genuine Toyota Shock Absorber Assembly Rear Left - https://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/oem/toyota~absorber~assy~shock~rear~rh~48531-69485.html
left/driver rear shock	48531-69485		$25.00		48531-69485 Genuine Toyota Shock Absorber Assembly Rear Left - https://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/oem/toyota~absorber~assy~shock~rear~rh~48531-69485.html
right/passenger front shock	48511-69388		$29.00	https://partsouq.com/en/catalog/genuine/unit?c=Toyota&ssd=$*KwG7j56X6-77997u5MSPn-P319DOv7C9vK6wgvKq-6yzqtWv_Pyhq7K98_f95umQpeDq4euss7qjr7a3pquyrbqxuLyv_Pyr56q1rL2wv7ro5oGr9fH44OzP9vK9oauyr6y-sb6-5O7gpait5_2qta3yjoPbycKspait4LP8-KmqydTDsL_B_ZmB2c3E2Kukr6-mveCzqOH75eSjrfK4q-2qta66ufIAAAAAcFzLgQ$&vid=0&cid=2&uid=335069&q=	48511-69386 - Toyota Parts Deal - https://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/oem/toyota~absorber~assy~shock~front~rh~48511-69386.html?Make=Toyota&Model=Land+Cruiser&Year=1997&Submodel=&Filter=()&Location=front-spring-shock-absorber,,48510
left/driver front shock	48511-69386		$46.00		48511-69388 - Toyota Parts Deal - https://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/oem/toyota~absorber~assy~shock~front~rh~48511-69388.html?Make=Toyota&Model=Land+Cruiser&Year=1997&Submodel=&Filter=()&Location=front-spring-shock-absorber,,48510

The Toyota 48531 is now priced at 79.80 apiece on this site, and is listed as unavailable,, so going down to the Tokico, it is listed at 54.20 and shipping is 48.20 for 102.40 for one shock.. I found a set at Treasure Coast Toyota and they were around 200 for the set, and shipping was around 35.00,, but thank you everyone,,

 

[billymagg]

Lots of good advice. I’m surprised at how many folks want a stock ride height. If your plans are not to wheel it, then this makes sense for all kinds of reasons, but honestly I cannot see why anyone would want or need to daily drive a 25 year old plus gas guzzling pig other than the sheer joy it brings. These trucks are the best of the best in terms of their design and engineering for off-road/ rugged terrain. That’s really what they were built for in the rest of the world, only in NA did it become stylish to be driving these things in the cities/urban areas.
I will say that the stock Lexus suspension on my truck when I picked it up in 2007 was really tipsy. The OME 2.5” lift with mediums up front and heavies out back solves all that. The only issue was the near 0 degrees of castor. This affect was amplified with the 35s and Toyota steelies, but I learned to live with it. Stay away from poly bushings and any castor “correction” bushings. Rubber is always the best for flex and energy absorption. Fast forward to today, and my OME springs and shocks are shot and I’m now looking into a new lift, maybe even a 3” one, but my rig is not a daily driver, and it will be loaded to GVWR for long road trips across NA.

Yeah, we bought a 95 Landcruiser with 97,000 miles in 03,, we kept it 10 years and it was my wifes daily and our family wagon, it drove very well, and that's really the only reason I bought this 94, that and it was perfect to throw the gun bag on the hood and shoot my rifle.

 

[billymagg]

By their nature a variable rate, tapered coil design will allow more body sway and the old “blown” shocks will only amplify this effect. If the 80 won’t be used for rock crawling where every MM of travel that can be squeezed from an 80 is necessary then it makes sense that a mono-rate coil of the proper capacity and matching shock for the eventual weight of the vehicle be installed.

Having said that, I would, as earlier stated, replace all bushings, worn steering componentes, service the wheel and trunnion bearings, and correct the castor before spending money on springs.

We actually drove our stone stock 95 LC for 10 years, it handled great, in the rain, sleet, and snow,, so I'm positive I don't like driving the lifted cruiser. It does have 311,000 miles and I realize its worn out. We live in a small town, I live 2 blocks from work, and my wife lives 4 blocks from work.. we have a small farm,, and it is a little hilly with some steep hillsides that due to brush and ditches must be traversed sideways.. I have John Deere 3032e with a loader, and my roll bar is always up, and my seat belt is always on.. , it would be happy to roll, and the lifted cruiser is a lot less stable on a hillside than the stock set up,, which is actually pretty comfortable on most of my farm.. I do have the front radius arm bushings, front panhard rod bushings, tie rod ends, and sway bar bushings to start.. so with the new shocks and stock springs, I should be in good shape for my usage. I am planning to replace the birfields and rebuild and reseal the front knuckles. I will get to the back end sooner or later, but you are right, it does get expensive.

 

[baldilocks]

We actually drove our stone stock 95 LC for 10 years, it handled great, in the rain, sleet, and snow,, so I'm positive I don't like driving the lifted cruiser. It does have 311,000 miles and I realize its worn out. We live in a small town, I live 2 blocks from work, and my wife lives 4 blocks from work.. we have a small farm,, and it is a little hilly with some steep hillsides that due to brush and ditches must be traversed sideways.. I have John Deere 3032e with a loader, and my roll bar is always up, and my seat belt is always on.. , it would be happy to roll, and the lifted cruiser is a lot less stable on a hillside than the stock set up,, which is actually pretty comfortable on most of my farm.. I do have the front radius arm bushings, front panhard rod bushings, tie rod ends, and sway bar bushings to start.. so with the new shocks and stock springs, I should be in good shape for my usage. I am planning to replace the birfields and rebuild and reseal the front knuckles. I will get to the back end sooner or later, but you are right, it does get expensive.

Keep with that !

 

[billymagg]

Keep with that !

I think Toyota did it right the first time,, I'd love to have some new factory springs and shocks,, but looks like rear springs are discontinued,, thanks for all your help guys, I do have radius arm bushes headed my way.. trends auto has some packages, and I like old man Emu,, but they don't seem to know if they have what I'm looking for. If you know of reasonably priced std springs or similar spec,, feel free to post a link.. I have followed some of the links, and a fellow member here has an engine and factory springs with 300,000 for practically give away,, I'd rather have new

Okay Gents, the fronts are one order from McGeorge, thanks to bilt4me, who is going to get the nicest guy on the forum award!!! several of you are in the running for 2nd nicest guy on the forum?? baldilocks is gonna make it tought on the rest of you,,, but if you have a link or a lead to some new rear springs?? anyway,, in all seriousness? are these still in circulation somewhere??? I know I will probably hear that ? but decent price and free shipping would be a bonus?? all that said, I will give a forum member preference and buy from them if possible.

 

[mudgudgeon]

Dobinsons are the only aftermarket spring I've seen advertised that are made in standard height.



PS, don't trust @BILT4ME , he'll lull you into thinking he's a nice guy, then sucker punch you when you least expect it!

 

[jpoole]

The Toyota 48531 is now priced at 79.80 apiece on this site, and is listed as unavailable,, so going down to the Tokico, it is listed at 54.20 and shipping is 48.20 for 102.40 for one shock.

You didn't scroll right to see the toyotapartsdeal.com links where they are available at the prices I listed. The parts lists I make typically will have the Partsouq links, even if I don't buy from them, as I like to see the diagrams which help ID parts numbers and help get the odds and ends that sometimes also need to be ordered.

Sounds like you are making good progress on it and know what you are looking for. Add some 80 pictures sometime, it makes the nice folks on this forum happy

 

[billymagg]

Dobinsons are the only aftermarket spring I've seen advertised that are made in standard height.



PS, don't trust @BILT4ME , he'll lull you into thinking he's a nice guy, then sucker punch you when you least expect it!

Oh man, right in the middle of a "family feud"!!! and I thought I left that behind over at "stump jumpin farm truck forum"!! I didn't know you guys were all related over here too???

 

[mudgudgeon]

Oh man, right in the middle of a "family feud"!!! and I thought I left that behind over at "stump jumpin farm truck forum"!! I didn't know you guys were all related over here too???

lol

Yeah, me an @BILT4ME , we's cousin's from another sister, half a world away!

 

[SNLC]

Stock shocks and coils are not NLA.


High quality shocks make the most difference.

Good caster is the next most noticeable.

Bushes and tres next.

Sway bar bushes and links next. Sway bars need to be spaced down if lifted.

Cheers

 

[SNLC]

Dobinsons are the only aftermarket spring I've seen advertised that are made in standard height.



PS, don't trust @BILT4ME , he'll lull you into thinking he's a nice guy, then sucker punch you when you least expect it!

OME 861/862 give 1/2-3/4” of lift. They go well with 33’s.

Cheers

 

[baldilocks]

@BILT4ME is a huge help around these parts but his true purpose is to weed out all non-hackers….

 

[billymagg]

Stock shocks and coils are not NLA.


High quality shocks make the most difference.

Good caster is the next most noticeable.

Bushes and tres next.

Sway bar bushes and links next. Sway bars need to be spaced down if lifted.

Cheers

yeah, I've got the stock shocks and front springs coming, kind of like morel mushrooms, you can't find them where they aren't.. so I'm clearly looking in the wrong places... I'm not opposed to OME, at all, but I figure the Toyota rear springs might work well with the factory fronts that are on their way, bring that amazing handling and performance that Toyota brought us in the first place.. oh I checked out your web site, I did enjoy it, and hearing a little of your story.. my landcruiser will mostly be carrying me, a rifle or two, a handgun in a gun bag, a chain for the farm and some jumper cables and a few tools and hopefully the Grandsons and Granddaughters... most trips will be about 8 or 9 miles to the farm and plunking around the farm.. keep up the good work,, I like a guy who likes looking for Landcruisers,, and finding the good ones, they are still out there,, keep looking!

OME 861/862 give 1/2-3/4” of lift. They go well with 33’s.

Cheers

 

[gummycarbs]

After a couple of years of just living with it, I started to work the problem. First try was to add a Delta rear panhard bracket. It was a noticeable change and cheap. Help the darty feeling.

Apologies if I already said this in this thread, but raising the rear, axle-side panhard bracket was the single biggest improvement in handling for me.

I drive a particular 45mph road every day. There's a gentle curve with some rough asphalt. Before fixing the panhard angle, hitting the bumpy section would make the vehicle feel like it was suddenly trying to steer into the oncoming lane.

Caster plates up front gave more relaxed steering, but it was that rear panhard angle that was causing the really scary stuff. It really surprised me how much of a difference it made.

 

[lumbee1]

Apologies if I already said this in this thread, but raising the rear, axle-side panhard bracket was the single biggest improvement in handling for me.

I drive a particular 45mph road every day. There's a gentle curve with some rough asphalt. Before fixing the panhard angle, hitting the bumpy section would make the vehicle feel like it was suddenly trying to steer into the oncoming lane.

Caster plates up front gave more relaxed steering, but it was that rear panhard angle that was causing the really scary stuff. It really surprised me how much of a difference it made.

I would add that a Whitelline rear swaybar with the Delta panhard relocation bracket really flattened out handling of my Cruiser and it drives really well and controlled.

However I do want to lower the lift either by cutting the springs or getting different springs. Short story: purchased Dobinson 3.5"F/3.0"R VT springs. Front springs gave a 5.5" lift, rear springs closer to 4" lift and I don't have a light Cruiser. At this point if I remove weight, it going to get taller.

 

[MrMikeyG]

I'm not trying to clutter a thread, but there's a lot of suspension talk in here so...
I'm in a '94 with new oem Tokicos, Dobinsons c59-222v and c59-223v springs, all new bushings up front. I'm sitting at pretty much 21.5" on all four corners give or take 1/8" (center of hub to bottom of flares)
I've had my rig on 2 different alignment racks recently, and I am basically 3 degrees off on caster ( 2.96 or something), sheet not handy. I had understood that it is pretty rare for a low lift to cause caster issues, but here I am. I would like to use plates since I just spent the coin to do full new bushings. I think 2.5 degree is the least correction plates I have seen.
At what point do adjustable panhards and sway bars and stuff like that enter the equation?

 

[gummycarbs]

At what point do adjustable panhards

Are your tires centered relative to the vehicle? If not, you should do something to your panhard. Also, the closer to level that the rear panhard is at rest, the less likely you are to experience weird handling over bumps.

I came across some notes today and I think I was at something like .7" stick-out on the rear, left side and 1.4" on the right. That's measured from the (no flares) fender to the outermost sidewall bulge. After raising my panhard bracket, it was pretty much equal. That was with something like an OME 2.5" lift that was really more like 3"+ in the rear, especially without a bumper.

and sway bars

Whenever articulation becomes an issue. Since the toughest thing I tackle is fire roads, I'm not concerned about it. I think I welded extensions on the rear (2"? Don't remember) and used something like 1-1/4" aluminum blocks as spacers up front, just because that seemed to be a rule of thumb.

 

[Jungle80farmer]

I went with dobinsons stock height springs and shocks. I also replaced every suspension bushing with oem. It rides freaking fantastic now.

 

[DC2NoVA]

I have stock springs with 90k miles from a 97 if you're interested. I'll be passing through Illinois in the next couple of months.