I don't about them being in stock but I heard from a rep that they are backordered on them until june
Lift options for 2nd Generation Sequoia (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter txgringo
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35x12.50 on 20in OEM wheel, with 1.25in wheel spacers, 2015 platinum air suspension adjusted, 2in fat bobs garage leveling kit.... think they'll fit???
Any updates? Hope you’re back in the swing of work!
I’ve been eyeballing a Bilstein 5100 kit for awhile for my 14’ Limited. Almost dropped the hammer on a Readylift kit but I think the Bilstein’s with rear spacers would be the better way to go!
My 08 Limited fit 35" tires with stock suspension and no rub on 18" stock rims. But I plan to beef up using OME 2863 (medium load) since I do not have a heavy rear bumper and will want the 2" lift to clear sag while towing my TT. I want to level front with a 2 or 2.5 or 3" front spacers and be done. Depending on the rear lift, I will measure the front to see which spaers to use. Below is the OME specs. OME 2864 are heavy spring rates and I had these on my LX450 and it was a HARSH ride (but did not sag when pulling a TT at all).
Any updates??
I’ve been reading and researching forever......so much different information floating around.
I purchased a Readylift kit last month but after reading this thread, I returned it before I barely opened it up.
Why most spacer lifts are bad.... - https://www.tundrasolutions.com/threads/why-most-spacer-lifts-are-bad.75386/
I wanted to buy the Dobinson’s 1.75” suspension kit but my budget just doesn’t allow it.
So I ordered a Bilstein 5100 kit for my 14’ Limited last week. Got it for $386 shipped!
I’ve also got a set of Method 316’s 18x9 +18 wheels coming my way and have a set of 275/70/18 Venom Power tires sitting in my garage!
I just spoke to a tech at Bilstein today to ask some questions and clarify some things about lifting our trucks.
He told me the 5100’s are not designed to be used with lifted springs, only the stock springs, front and back. He stated the fronts especially should only be used with the stock coil springs and will do all the lifting. He said the rears obviously don’t provide lift and if I wanted to raise the rear at all to accommodate the front lift a little, to use a 1” spacer or 1” lifted coil spring (does that even exist?) and no taller than that, stating again, the 5100’s are not designed to be used with taller, lifted springs because they can get damaged. I told him about all the forums I’ve been reading and all the different info I’ve collected/read wth much confusion. He laughed a little and said he’s been reading forums for 25 years and advised me to take it all in but mostly believe nothing!
So I ordered 1” rear spacers off eBay today and plan on putting the front 5100’s on the 2nd notch (maybe the 3rd).
I did measure my fender height tonight......35” front and 36.5” in the back.
That’s about it for now. I’ll post up when I finally get everything installed!
I’ve been reading and researching forever......so much different information floating around.
I purchased a Readylift kit last month but after reading this thread, I returned it before I barely opened it up.
Why most spacer lifts are bad.... - https://www.tundrasolutions.com/threads/why-most-spacer-lifts-are-bad.75386/
I wanted to buy the Dobinson’s 1.75” suspension kit but my budget just doesn’t allow it.
So I ordered a Bilstein 5100 kit for my 14’ Limited last week. Got it for $386 shipped!
I’ve also got a set of Method 316’s 18x9 +18 wheels coming my way and have a set of 275/70/18 Venom Power tires sitting in my garage!
I just spoke to a tech at Bilstein today to ask some questions and clarify some things about lifting our trucks.
He told me the 5100’s are not designed to be used with lifted springs, only the stock springs, front and back. He stated the fronts especially should only be used with the stock coil springs and will do all the lifting. He said the rears obviously don’t provide lift and if I wanted to raise the rear at all to accommodate the front lift a little, to use a 1” spacer or 1” lifted coil spring (does that even exist?) and no taller than that, stating again, the 5100’s are not designed to be used with taller, lifted springs because they can get damaged. I told him about all the forums I’ve been reading and all the different info I’ve collected/read wth much confusion. He laughed a little and said he’s been reading forums for 25 years and advised me to take it all in but mostly believe nothing!
So I ordered 1” rear spacers off eBay today and plan on putting the front 5100’s on the 2nd notch (maybe the 3rd).
I did measure my fender height tonight......35” front and 36.5” in the back.
That’s about it for now. I’ll post up when I finally get everything installed!
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txgringo
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- Thread starter
- #46
Thanks, still on the hunt, so haven't been doing anything on the Sequoia. I'm afraid it may be necessary sooner rather than later though as the new Yokohama X-ATs that I put on last summer are wearing uneven as hell, even with regular rotation. If I need new shocks (which I suspect is the case at 80k miles), I don't know if I will be able to just replace the shocks without a mild lift.
Any updates?
Well, the Bilsteins I ordered were back ordered till mid April and I said screw it, canceled those and ordered a Dobinson’s 1.75” lift kit, struts and springs. Probably be a few weeks before I get them as well and should be close to the time I finally get my new wheels. I’m glad, it’s ultimately what I wanted to do and to me it’s the right way to lift a truck.
Well, the Bilsteins I ordered were back ordered till mid April and I said screw it, canceled those and ordered a Dobinson’s 1.75” lift kit, struts and springs. Probably be a few weeks before I get them as well and should be close to the time I finally get my new wheels. I’m glad, it’s ultimately what I wanted to do and to me it’s the right way to lift a truck.
txgringo
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #48
You got that Dobinsons kit installed yet?
I just got an alignment and the rear camber was out. They said they maxed it out to get it back in spec but would have liked to have a little more positive adjustment. Seems my rear springs are sagging, so I need to start looking at replacement options. I'm also thinking about adding some airbags for when I tow or have the cargo area full of gear.
I haven’t got it yet, back ordered till May!
I did get my wheels and tires installed yesterday!
I just read the entire thread. Great info guy but im just as confused but eager to better understand. The new to me Gen 2 has new rear coil springs and im not sure what brand or if its stock height. The PO probably wanted to correct saggy rear end. Ill get a better look under the tuck tonight. This new ride is my wifes so as soon as she asks about a lift haha I want to be ready. She loves the 2.5' lift on the 80 series LC. I think its only a matter of time. So ill be doing some homework and will share what I find out. Cheers! 
Finally got my rear Dobinsons 1.75” springs and shocks and decided to go with Bilstein 6112’s for the front. Going to set the fronts to the 1.93” setting.
These rear springs are massive!
Still need to install everything but house projects are getting in the way!
These rear springs are massive!
Still need to install everything but house projects are getting in the way!
I'm very interested on how the rear dobinsons springs and shocks work. Please keep us posted!
Will do! I think they are going to be pretty impressive…….this isn’t my pic but check out the difference from stock!!!
Still not in yet!
From everything I’ve read, the stock UCA’s should be fine if I am under 2.5”.
The more I thought about it, the more I kept thinking the front and back would be 1.75”………doesn’t leveling a truck involve lifting the front a little higher than the rear? So I figured the Bilsteins would allow me to do that plus these 6112’s are massive (I love overkill and they are bigger than the 5100’s too), have great reviews and I think they will work out nicely! It was only about $200 more to upgrade to them from the Dobinsons.
I have the full Dobinsons & 5100's in and am not in spec. Any help to get the alignment to get closer would be greatly appreciated.
The before was AFTER Firestone "aligned" it. They left the passenger rear completely loose, Big O was shocked they let the truck on the road. WTF???
The before was AFTER Firestone "aligned" it. They left the passenger rear completely loose, Big O was shocked they let the truck on the road. WTF???
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I hate to cross post. But I know there isn't a ton of the 2nd gen sequoia builders out there... (yet)
I posted a Dobinson kit in the for sale section.
I posted a Dobinson kit in the for sale section.
Did they say if your control arms or anything else were seized? They should have been able to bring that RR in a little more.
Finally got them installed!
Bilstein 6112’s and 1.75” Dobinsons rear springs/shocks.
Dealer wanted $700 just to install the rear springs so I started researching spring compressors. It’s really hard to find any good spring install tutorials for the 2nd Gen Sequoia. I finally came across this compressor, mine is from Eastwood and there are other brands out there just like it. Paid $125 shipped with a sale they had.
Jacked the truck up, wheel off and removed the rear shock. This let the lower arm come down some. I put a little bottle jack on top of the knuckle and under the lip where the bump stop is mounted and “jacked” it open about 2” or so……..this pressed the lower control arm even more and allowed me to remove the stock spring with my spring compressor. This compressor is amazing and really took no effort to use……..so satisfied with this purchase! The only thing I really had to pay attention to was how the new spring would line up correctly in the lower arm cup and be sure the compressor was positioned on the spring at the right spot so it wouldn’t hit the control arm once I put the spring in and started “uncompressing” it.
The new spring is so beefy compared to the stock one, but the compressor made quick work of it and in no time I had it compressed enough to put in. I used a 1/2” ratchet to compress it because the maker says don’t use an impact gun, probably for “safety” reasons. I used an impact gun on the other side and it worked great and I didn’t die!
I had read so much about people removing ball joints, disconnecting the knuckle, loosening the control arm bolts and disconnecting the sway bar but one guy told me he didn’t do any of that, just pressed the control arm down to make enough room.
I did have to open the bottle jack a little more……..about another inch to make more room for the new spring. It went in easier than I ever thought it would after reading all the horror stories of these springs flexing outward. I decompressed the compressor carefully, making sure the bottom of the spring was lined up in the lower arm cup and it was in!! Took the compressor off and lowered the bottle jack and removed it. Installed the shock, bottom first, then used a small suitcase jack to raise the lower arm until the top of the shock lined up with it’s mounting holes and secured the bolt…….done, just like that, I was so happy it worked! I did the other side even faster and started on my fronts.
I thought the fronts would be easier but they were harder!!
I have these 6112’s set on the 2nd notch up from the bottom which should be a 2.7” lift.
Jacked up the truck, wheel off and I removed the 4 nuts at the top of the strut. I disconnected the sway bar and removed the lower strut bolt. The strut extended down into its little mounting point. I tried to push the lower arm down but it barely budged, even with an extra jack handle, I pryed in between the arm and body. What to do? I disconnected the upper control arm at the ball joint and this helped and I pryed the arm down enough with the jack handle and got the strut out but it was difficult. I new the new strut/spring was gonna be tough to get in. I installed the strut/spring at the top and secured the 4 nuts. The bottom of the strut was well below its mounting point which is like an enclosed metal box on the lower arm. For the love of me I could not push the arm down low enough, prying and pushing, it wouldn’t go!! I watched a YouTube video where a guy disconnected the lower ball joint and loosened the control arm bolts and the whole arm swung down! So I connected the upper control arm back to the knuckle and started on the lower ball joint. The nice thing about our Sequoia’s, I noticed, is they have two big bolts that secure the knuckle to the lower control arm………I didn’t have to disconnect the ball joint and just removed those two huge bolts. This freed up the lower arm and I then loosened both ginormous (24mm) bolts that secure the lower control arm to the frame. I then took my jack handle and pryed down on the lower control arm and the whole arm swung down! I got the bottom of the strut in and meticulously lined up the mounting bolt, suitcase jacked the arm back up and secured the sway bar and secured the two big bolts that held the lower arm to the knuckle back. The two big bolts took a lot of fine motor skills to line up and screw back in. And that was it! I got the wheel back on and did the other side, obviously much faster than the first side. I got the truck lowered and went underneath and tightened the control arm bolts, sway bar bolts and both lower strut mounting bolts while they were under the full weight of the truck. I did this to the two rear upper and lower mounting bolts for rear shock as well.
Took it out for its maiden voyage down the road and was very impressed with the ride! It’s definitely stiffer, very firm but not to firm, really nice! It’s not bouncy at all either. It’s a very well controlled suspension for sure! I can’t wait to feel it on the highway and in turns and long sweepers at speed.
Pictures coming!
Bilstein 6112’s and 1.75” Dobinsons rear springs/shocks.
Dealer wanted $700 just to install the rear springs so I started researching spring compressors. It’s really hard to find any good spring install tutorials for the 2nd Gen Sequoia. I finally came across this compressor, mine is from Eastwood and there are other brands out there just like it. Paid $125 shipped with a sale they had.
Jacked the truck up, wheel off and removed the rear shock. This let the lower arm come down some. I put a little bottle jack on top of the knuckle and under the lip where the bump stop is mounted and “jacked” it open about 2” or so……..this pressed the lower control arm even more and allowed me to remove the stock spring with my spring compressor. This compressor is amazing and really took no effort to use……..so satisfied with this purchase! The only thing I really had to pay attention to was how the new spring would line up correctly in the lower arm cup and be sure the compressor was positioned on the spring at the right spot so it wouldn’t hit the control arm once I put the spring in and started “uncompressing” it.
The new spring is so beefy compared to the stock one, but the compressor made quick work of it and in no time I had it compressed enough to put in. I used a 1/2” ratchet to compress it because the maker says don’t use an impact gun, probably for “safety” reasons. I used an impact gun on the other side and it worked great and I didn’t die!
I had read so much about people removing ball joints, disconnecting the knuckle, loosening the control arm bolts and disconnecting the sway bar but one guy told me he didn’t do any of that, just pressed the control arm down to make enough room.
I did have to open the bottle jack a little more……..about another inch to make more room for the new spring. It went in easier than I ever thought it would after reading all the horror stories of these springs flexing outward. I decompressed the compressor carefully, making sure the bottom of the spring was lined up in the lower arm cup and it was in!! Took the compressor off and lowered the bottle jack and removed it. Installed the shock, bottom first, then used a small suitcase jack to raise the lower arm until the top of the shock lined up with it’s mounting holes and secured the bolt…….done, just like that, I was so happy it worked! I did the other side even faster and started on my fronts.
I thought the fronts would be easier but they were harder!!
I have these 6112’s set on the 2nd notch up from the bottom which should be a 2.7” lift.
Jacked up the truck, wheel off and I removed the 4 nuts at the top of the strut. I disconnected the sway bar and removed the lower strut bolt. The strut extended down into its little mounting point. I tried to push the lower arm down but it barely budged, even with an extra jack handle, I pryed in between the arm and body. What to do? I disconnected the upper control arm at the ball joint and this helped and I pryed the arm down enough with the jack handle and got the strut out but it was difficult. I new the new strut/spring was gonna be tough to get in. I installed the strut/spring at the top and secured the 4 nuts. The bottom of the strut was well below its mounting point which is like an enclosed metal box on the lower arm. For the love of me I could not push the arm down low enough, prying and pushing, it wouldn’t go!! I watched a YouTube video where a guy disconnected the lower ball joint and loosened the control arm bolts and the whole arm swung down! So I connected the upper control arm back to the knuckle and started on the lower ball joint. The nice thing about our Sequoia’s, I noticed, is they have two big bolts that secure the knuckle to the lower control arm………I didn’t have to disconnect the ball joint and just removed those two huge bolts. This freed up the lower arm and I then loosened both ginormous (24mm) bolts that secure the lower control arm to the frame. I then took my jack handle and pryed down on the lower control arm and the whole arm swung down! I got the bottom of the strut in and meticulously lined up the mounting bolt, suitcase jacked the arm back up and secured the sway bar and secured the two big bolts that held the lower arm to the knuckle back. The two big bolts took a lot of fine motor skills to line up and screw back in. And that was it! I got the wheel back on and did the other side, obviously much faster than the first side. I got the truck lowered and went underneath and tightened the control arm bolts, sway bar bolts and both lower strut mounting bolts while they were under the full weight of the truck. I did this to the two rear upper and lower mounting bolts for rear shock as well.
Took it out for its maiden voyage down the road and was very impressed with the ride! It’s definitely stiffer, very firm but not to firm, really nice! It’s not bouncy at all either. It’s a very well controlled suspension for sure! I can’t wait to feel it on the highway and in turns and long sweepers at speed.
Pictures coming!
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Congratulations!
