I just got set of BFGoodrich all terrains TA KO's, tire is 33" which eats up some of the tire well space, would like to lift 2" so looks proportional...what's the most cost effective way? I was told ReadyLift...Dont need a fancy system, just add 2" and keep the OEM ride quality is all I'm looking for...any suggestions?
Lift kit
- Thread starter landarcht
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Cost effective+ raise torsion bars and add coil spacers ti the rear. You will gain up to 2" and will keep the factory ride. I am not sure but I think the spacers are around $50.
BBQ is correct for the cheapest route. However, the most popular method (still cost effective compared to other SUVs) is to get a kit that includes aftermarket torsion bars, rear springs, front and rear shocks and a differential drop. This kit can be put on at home with the only real trouble area being one of the rear shocks (one of the bolts is hard to get to).
Here are some links:
Slee - Toyota 100 Series Land Cruiser Suspension
Camel 4x4: 100 Series Gas
Tough Dog Suspension Dealer - Toyota 100 Series IFS LandCruiser Suspension
If you want to go all out take a look here:
98-07 LANDCRUISER 100 SUPER DELUXE SUSPENSION W/ UCA & KING 2.5 [JTOUCA-TLC100- SUPER DELUXE KIT] - $2,999.00 : JTs Parts & Accessories, Justdifferentials.com
Here are some links:
Slee - Toyota 100 Series Land Cruiser Suspension
Camel 4x4: 100 Series Gas
Tough Dog Suspension Dealer - Toyota 100 Series IFS LandCruiser Suspension
If you want to go all out take a look here:
98-07 LANDCRUISER 100 SUPER DELUXE SUSPENSION W/ UCA & KING 2.5 [JTOUCA-TLC100- SUPER DELUXE KIT] - $2,999.00 : JTs Parts & Accessories, Justdifferentials.com
That tells us EXACTLY what you want. What you don't want are lift kits, new shocks a stiffer ride, etc. DON'T do that.
Simply add a 50mm coil spacer in the back then re-adjust the t-bars to match. 2" up, cheap, 95% OEM ride. Enjoy!
ShottsUZJ100 said:
Ha...Everyone starts this way. Give him 6 months and he'll be ready for my links. I just figured I would get him some info now so that when he searches this thread in the future, my post will be sort of like an "I told you so".
I just thought of one thing though. If there is any chance that you "might" want an aftermarket lift later on, skip the spacers and just get some lifted springs. Springs are $160 vs. $50 for the spacers but if you end up wanting a real lift later on (and you will), you'll already be 1/4 of the way there vs. having $50 paperweights.
...and yes, I know he could sell them or add them to whatever springs he buys in the future....
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HAHAH I remember these days...good thing 5 members pm'ed me and told me to not get spacers.
"Do it once, do it right"
You guys are going to get him to go with a lift! LOL!
spend the money now rather than go cheap...lose all that money as nobody wants what you bought and then having to get what you really wanted but were trying to convince yourself was a better route to go....
You are in denial right now....soon it will be regret....then recovery...then re-installation until you smile again.
You are in denial right now....soon it will be regret....then recovery...then re-installation until you smile again.
Do it right the first time....unlike LJ.
learn from my mistakes. Do not get anxious on spending just to add anything
I agree with this, especially with the age of many 100s, the OEM shocks are either completely gone (like mine were) or on their way out.
My ride actually became much better in my opinion once I installed OME shocks and 865 springs. (blown or worn shocks will destroy your ride)
Do it right the first time.
If I were to do this, I'd go 30mm on the spacers with a 1" body lift. Keeps suspension more neutral and preserves droop.
Don't listen to the haters. Buy the spacers, crank the torsions, drop $120 on 4 new OEM shocks and be done with it. If you're not gonna run bumpers, winch, tire mounts, drawers, dual batts, etc. you'll not be happy with the ride on an "empty" truck if you go aftermarket springs and shocks. Unless of course, you've missed counting all the bumps and seams and cracks in your streets...
OEM shocks give up VERY little in terms of travel compared to OME, and are dirt cheap and give, well, an OEM ride... Again, only applies to a truck in stock configuration...
OEM shocks give up VERY little in terms of travel compared to OME, and are dirt cheap and give, well, an OEM ride... Again, only applies to a truck in stock configuration...
Dont do the Ready Lift, it is a piece of CraaaaP! I had that system for a short while on my FJ and it screwed up my UCAs, ruined the ball joints. I dont know how to explain the geometry but it screws it up and in a short time. I thought the same thing when I took that option and it cost me more in the long run! Do it right the first time and you wont have to worry about it. Just my .02 worth.
It may not be the same effect on the LC as the FJC due to the different setup but I wont do another spacer.
It may not be the same effect on the LC as the FJC due to the different setup but I wont do another spacer.
Oh and if you want some brand new slee spacers for the 100 series, I got some brand new ones for $45 shipped!
if you put new shocks in, I aint hatin. Just the people who slap spacers in and crank the bars and call it good even after they start putting armor on. You know who you are
Does anyone know if JTs kit above causes CV boot leaks that seem to be inevitable with others kits?