Lift blocks and axle wrap

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Sep 23, 2004
So I'm trying to get more info about axle wrap. I've been reading online about it but I'd say I'm pretty much still clueless. Does axle wrap add to "wheel hop"?

I'd like to know what would happen if I ran lift block on my rear springs. I currently have a set of sagging Downey springs and I don't think they could get any worse. But will the blocks and axle wrap completly kill the springs? Will it hurt anything else or make anything more prone to breakage? Also, just last weekend I took off my load leaf to gain some upward wheel travel and because the springs were sagging so back they pretty much rode on the load leaf.
Do not, I repeat, do not run lift blocks. They are the worst thing one can do, both in terms of safety and reliability. Save up OR look harder for a set of used springs if you cannot afford a set of new springs. Have people run them without issues....sure. But people have also used .22 shells for fuses (OK, kind of extreme BUT true story in KY).

To answer your question, ALL vehicles have a degree of axle wrap as it occurs naturally in the transfer of power from the driveline. Older suspensions i.e. suspensions without rear stabilizing systems had it worse. Wheel hop, at least what I am thinking you mean, is caused by the lack of friction on the tires due to suspension failure (in terms of function not complete failure). A suspension does many things, one of them is keeping the axle in a static position when a transfer of power occurs i.e. avoiding axle wrap. Adding lift blocks weakens the efficiency of the suspension due to the fact that you are adding another variable of energy so to speak that the suspension must compensate for in order to keep the wheels on the ground. In other words it has to not only compensate for the energy twisting the axle, now it has to compensate for energy dissipated over the plastic lift blocks which has essentially decreased the rigidity of the whole suspension system.

Not to harp, but they are just a very cheap and bad way to gain lift and they are VERY unsafe in a time of emergency braking or swerve.
Bear80 said:
yeah I'm proabably just going to replace my 2" downey springs, with thier 3" can't really beat the price.

I'd recommend skipping Downey springs - they just don't last. I know they are cheap, but they are disposable. Consider 3" Marlin's or Chevy's or maybe something else.
i had some pretty hefty blocks on the rear of my 'runner when i got it. i made a track bar to go to the top of the rear diff, and never had any axle wrap/wheel hop problems. as it is mainly a trail rig, i left the blocks in place for quite a while with no problems. it has since been upgraded w/ new springs.
well I just put the 3" blocks in and I like the way it sets just slightly raked. I have the blocks, sagging downey 2" springs minus the stock load leaf and 1-1/2" longer shackels. Seems to feel fine driving around on the street.

I looked into the chevy springs and such but I always come back to the fact that I do not want to cut/weld on my truck. My best choice is the All Pro Off Road 3" springs and when they go on sale (if) then I'll buy them. Until then, it'll be the blocks.

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