Lift and Tires installed!

[tarmacblack]

Well, I've had my Hundy just over a month now, and I got the time this weekend to get some of the parts sitting in my garage on the rig.

Here's some photos:

Before:

After:

The rear shocks were a bear to get off, I tried for about 10 minutes before I resorted to following Rhino's lead and drilling the 1.5" holes in the floorboard.

Thanks to Anthony L I had already made a trip to Lowes and picked up the metal plugs just "in-case" i had to drill the holes. Having done it, I wouldn't even attempt to do it the "Hard" way.

I broke both bolts on the sway bar endlinks on the rear. I sourced some parts for some quick disconects and new endlinks for the rear today, when I get around to putting them together I'll throw up some photos.

I just wanted to say thanks to the Mud community, you guys made my life easier with this install.

My 3 year old son was also a big help, and wanted in on the photos, hence the pose with my wife's R-car, I think he's going to enjoy the Cruiser as much as me.

 

[mtnracer]

Lookin' good. I really like the burgundy color too - not the usual silver, sand, black...

 

[2000UZJ]

Looks great, I love that color with the black rims. Never seen it before. I'm not a huge fan of that color, but that combo looks awesome!

 

[Anthony.L]

Thanks to Anthony L I had already made a trip to Lowes and picked up the metal plugs just "in-case" i had to drill the holes. Having done it, I wouldn't even attempt to do it the "Hard" way.

Glad it worked out, I don't know why anyone would install the rears without drilling the hole!

P.S. I did not have to touch my rear sway bar to install either shocks or springs, any reason why you had to remove (and break) those bolts?

 

[tarmacblack]

Looks great, I love that color with the black rims. Never seen it before. I'm not a huge fan of that color, but that combo looks awesome!

Thanks man! I think the colors will really come together once I get the bumpers and sliders on.

I think I'll have them all powdercoated the same color I did the wheels.

 

[tarmacblack]

Glad it worked out, I don't know why anyone would install the rears without drilling the hole!

P.S. I did not have to touch my rear sway bar to install either shocks or springs, any reason why you had to remove (and break) those bolts?

The rear axle wouldn't drop far enough to get the springs out without dis-connecting the sway bar. Once the sway bar was out of the way the, it dropped down another 4-6 inches.

 

[Anthony.L]

Sure you don't mean the track bar? I only had to remove the single bolt for the track bar on the axle then it dropped plenty to remove the springs.

 

[tarmacblack]

Sure you don't mean the track bar? I only had to remove the single bolt for the track bar on the axle then it dropped plenty to remove the springs.

Yup I'm sure I don't mean the track bar.

I didn't disconnect the track bar (Panard bar) as I saw the sway bar binding as the axle was let down. I probably could have saved a couple of bolts and an endlink by dropping the track bar, but the bushings in the sway bar were toast so I'd have taken it apart to replace them anyway.

I was surprised how easy the diff drop kit went in. It and the torsion bars proved to be fairly simple.

 

[2000UZJ]

What size tires? I can't believe how much better that looks

 

[Trunk Monkey]

x2 for my install - sway bar. You've reminded me that when I did mine I added sway bar bushings to the to do list. Guess I forgot about that . . .

Sweet looking 100!

 

[Anthony.L]

Sounds like the swaybar would have come off anyways. However for reference, dropping the pan hard (track bar) gives you the clearance necessary.

For me the Slee diff drop was the hardest part, the two main bolts front and rear of the diff were on there with at least 300 ft lbs. from the factory and hell to get off. Other then that it was a cake walk.

I haven't done the torsion bars yet, waiting for the ARB front bumper. I didn't want the harsh ride in the front in the mean time.

 

[Dobie]

Great job. Now it's done you can relax and take it out after the hard work and time you put into it. It never gets old to me when I see these before and after photos. They always look great.

 

[Dobie]

Sounds like the swaybar would have come off anyways. However for reference, dropping the pan hard (track bar) gives you the clearance necessary.

For me the Slee diff drop was the hardest part, the two main bolts front and rear of the diff were on there with at least 300 ft lbs. from the factory and hell to get off. Other then that it was a cake walk.

I haven't done the torsion bars yet, waiting for the ARB front bumper. I didn't want the harsh ride in the front in the mean time.

I can't remember what set up you went with, but I went with the 860 rear coils and OME torsion bars up front. At the time I didn't have the front and rear bumpers. The ride was a little more stiff (equal stiffness to the rear and front). Once I added the bumpers the ride feels very close to stock with the exception of how it handles the turns.

 

[tarmacblack]

x2 for my install - sway bar. You've reminded me that when I did mine I added sway bar bushings to the to do list. Guess I forgot about that . . .

Sweet looking 100!

Cory,

I'll send you some photos of the parts I'm putting together for end-links and new bushings when I get them done. I'll probably have enough material to do an extra set of bushings, so if you like the way it looks we can throw some together for you too.

What size tires? I can't believe how much better that looks

315/75/16 Dunlop Max-Traction tires.

They are close to the UAC, I'd say maybe a 1/4" clearance, I can see why guys recommend spacers with 315s.

Great job. Now it's done you can relax and take it out after the hard work and time you put into it. It never gets old to me when I see these before and after photos. They always look great.

Thanks Dobie, I'm hoping to get out and hit a local trail this weekend. There's a pretty cool cave we ride into on our dirt bikes, I'd like to take my wife and sun up there for a picnic.

 

[smm3]

Does look great. I think the black rims make the difference in how good it looks!

 

[Trunk Monkey]

However for reference, dropping the pan hard (track bar) gives you the clearance necessary.

Not to split hairs, but not sure how unbolting the panhard would give you more clearance. All it does is locate the axle side to side, it doesn't really limit it's travel up and down. I guess depending on how you're jacking the truck and axle it might make a difference, but for mine - jack stands on the frame and floor jack under the pumpkin - undoing the panhard wouldn't have gained me anything.

 

[Anthony.L]

I don't know what to tell you Trunk Monkey. I'm no master LC tech, but this is how it worked for me.

I had the rear supported with jack stands on the frame rails, rear tires off, and axle hanging in the air. I removed the pan hard bolt at the axle and it dropped at least 4-6 inches afterward allowing me to easily remove the rear springs. I did not touch the sway bar at all.

Once the new OME springs were in, I used a floor jack under the diff pumpkin to raise the axle until the pan hard bolt went back in with ease (i.e. hand tighten).

The whole rear end took 20 mins tops, couldn't imagine a easier way to do it.

 

[Anthony.L]

Trunk, I forgot to mention the guy who helped me install the lift is a Toyota master tech and he has done lifts on countless yotas from LC to 4runner to FJ Cruiser. All of them he removed the pan hard bolt at the axle to install the rear springs.

 

[2000UZJ]

i just pulled the shocks and sway bar. Springs fell out as I lowered the axle. I'm done, out of the debate.

 

[Trunk Monkey]

The guy who helped me trains all the Toyota Master Techs in the Rocky Mt. area.

Not saying it didn't work for you, just not seeing the physics of it sitting at a desk.