Lexus LX Four and half build thread just to keep track of all the things i have done (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Qball
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Thanks for posting. I've been looking for a smoother, lighter suspension setup since my LX is pretty much never loaded enough to justify my OME heavies (and I hate stinkbug!) Your glowing review of the TJM 50mm progressive has me leaning that way. I've already got the fox shocks in the rear, but can barely feel the difference since my springs are so stiff 
- Thread starter
- #23
Thanks for posting. I've been looking for a smoother, lighter suspension setup since my LX is pretty much never loaded enough to justify my OME heavies (and I hate stinkbug!) Your glowing review of the TJM 50mm progressive has me leaning that way. I've already got the fox shocks in the rear, but can barely feel the difference since my springs are so stiff
No problem, hope you find your happy place setup. OME heavies are like riding in a Mack truck when empty so the difference s night and day. However some do find it a little soft but I think it's just very smooth, it won't corner as well but it's heck a lot smoother. TJM springs do have a VERY slight stink bug. Overall I think you wil very happy if you are looking for Lexus smooth ride.
Are your TJM springs constant load or progressive?
Can you provide the measurements now that hopefully they have settled?
Still debating on what to do with my suspension setup. I think mine are sagging and may need a replacement. Not sure what others have on their OME 861/862.
Can you provide the measurements now that hopefully they have settled?
Still debating on what to do with my suspension setup. I think mine are sagging and may need a replacement. Not sure what others have on their OME 861/862.
- Thread starter
- #25
Progressive, i can measure it later tonight but it didn't really change until I put the bumper and winch in.
My recommendation is:
if you want less travel then go with 861/862 springs
if you want 2 inch and softer ride and empty
if you want firmer ride then go for OME springs
if you always have weight in the car then OME springs
In the end if you have empty rig then go with tjm progressive regardless, they ride super smooth empty. If you have bumper, slider and other additional weight added then definitely go OME or TJM constant rate(i have no experience with them). OME springs are designed with additional 200lbs and more in mind so if you have the right weight they ride fantastic!
So it all boil downs to how much weight you have and how you want it to ride, but no matter what make sure you don't get OME shocks, get at least fox or kings if you got the coil and want to go fast. Was just in another mud member's 80 last night with 861/862 with fox shocks and OMG that thing rides like a lexus. But he does have quite a bit of weight added such as draw system, sliders, bumper and winch.
I'm confused about 861/862.
I like the ride. I like it firm. I don't like a bouncy ride, or some setup which would make you feel like you are on a boat with a large side to side sway. Even my setup empty seems to soft for my taste. That's just me I guess.
I also have the HD Bilsteins. Some people consider that to be a very harsh ride.
I put some 30mm spacers up front and I am at about 21" average.
I am looking at something higher to fit the 35''s (although they do fit my current setup, with only minimal rub in the rear), in order to have a bit more clearance over obstacles. Gold Mountain got me thinking about raising it up more.
Not sure if my OME springs are tired or they are just where they should be (kind of low) with ARB up front (no winch) and a heavy rear bumper with tire swing. The rear without anything else added sits at about 20.5" average. I was thinking about adding 1cm spacers there too to bring it close to the front height.
Another idea was to keep the 861/862 and add 2" metaltech spacers up front and 30mm spacers for the rear. That would net me almost 22" overall.
But suspension travel would be limited this way, caster correction would still be needed too, so what is the real benefit then? Cheap lift without real benefits? Mall crawler?
I would also add a 1" body lift, so in this case there would be no more 35" rubbing.
Looking at Slinky 75mm springs, they are about double the price of the TJM kit. But they are dual rate, just like 861/862.
Now comes the confusing part.
Many people went back to 861/862 after playing around with different setups messing around too much with caster correction, control arms and double cardan.
I like the ride. I like it firm. I don't like a bouncy ride, or some setup which would make you feel like you are on a boat with a large side to side sway. Even my setup empty seems to soft for my taste. That's just me I guess.
I also have the HD Bilsteins. Some people consider that to be a very harsh ride.
I put some 30mm spacers up front and I am at about 21" average.
I am looking at something higher to fit the 35''s (although they do fit my current setup, with only minimal rub in the rear), in order to have a bit more clearance over obstacles. Gold Mountain got me thinking about raising it up more.
Not sure if my OME springs are tired or they are just where they should be (kind of low) with ARB up front (no winch) and a heavy rear bumper with tire swing. The rear without anything else added sits at about 20.5" average. I was thinking about adding 1cm spacers there too to bring it close to the front height.
Another idea was to keep the 861/862 and add 2" metaltech spacers up front and 30mm spacers for the rear. That would net me almost 22" overall.
But suspension travel would be limited this way, caster correction would still be needed too, so what is the real benefit then? Cheap lift without real benefits? Mall crawler?
I would also add a 1" body lift, so in this case there would be no more 35" rubbing.
Looking at Slinky 75mm springs, they are about double the price of the TJM kit. But they are dual rate, just like 861/862.
Now comes the confusing part.
Many people went back to 861/862 after playing around with different setups messing around too much with caster correction, control arms and double cardan.
- Thread starter
- #27
If you like firm ride then stick with OME springs, the bouncing around part most like attributed to by the shocks and you have enough weight to ride well on your current springs. I highly recommend trying the fox cheap IFP shocks and you will be pleasantly surprised on how nice that will ride. The billstein shocks haven't been updated for a very long time and known to be a bit too stiff like the OME shocks.
BUT for more clearance means more lift mean more work like caster and much more if you go pass 2 inch. With the right line you really should be able to go just about anywhere minus john bull or hollcomb creek which are strictly rock crawler territory. BTW don't do body lift because it doesn't really give you that much but a lot of work unless you go full rock crawler mode and run 37 and up. 35 will only have minor rub even in stock form.
BUT for more clearance means more lift mean more work like caster and much more if you go pass 2 inch. With the right line you really should be able to go just about anywhere minus john bull or hollcomb creek which are strictly rock crawler territory. BTW don't do body lift because it doesn't really give you that much but a lot of work unless you go full rock crawler mode and run 37 and up. 35 will only have minor rub even in stock form.
You mentioned a skinny spare. What tire are you using?
- Thread starter
- #29
I don't want to go on any rock trails anymore.
I think if I had 1cm spacers in the rear, there would be no rub with my 35's. I mean there is a very thin line where the tires touched the body.
So, you're saying if I go beyond 2" I would need more work done besides the caster correction bushings? TJM also offers 70mm springs (2.75"). I think with my weight and settling it should go down to 2.25 - 2.5". I just want to stay away from getting control arm drop brackets and a new drive line.
I need to ride in your truck to feel how your suspension setup is. Too soft for my taste, or just right. It may all be subjective at this point from my perspective.
I think if I had 1cm spacers in the rear, there would be no rub with my 35's. I mean there is a very thin line where the tires touched the body.
So, you're saying if I go beyond 2" I would need more work done besides the caster correction bushings? TJM also offers 70mm springs (2.75"). I think with my weight and settling it should go down to 2.25 - 2.5". I just want to stay away from getting control arm drop brackets and a new drive line.
I need to ride in your truck to feel how your suspension setup is. Too soft for my taste, or just right. It may all be subjective at this point from my perspective.
- Thread starter
- #31
Every truck is slight different so it's hard to say if you need more than caster after 2 inch. For example when I had 861/862 i had to get caster correction even though everyone said i should not need it.
If you want to avoid the headache of drive line vibration and all the other work needed to properly lift an 80 pass 2 inch then stick with 2 inch and lower. If you want to stay away from rocks then you really don't need anything other than 861/862 combo and you don't even need the spacers. Also don't worry about that little bit of rub, doesn't hurt.
Without the spacers, I am at 19" front lift.
ewillis
SILVER Star
I run the OME 850/860 with Fox 2.0 and am quite happy with the setup. Firm when it should be...
Did you have to modify anything else besides the caster? Any stinkbug stance with that setup?
ewillis
SILVER Star
Slight stinkbug when empty...level when loaded. Nothing a front spacer can't remedy if it bothers you.
- Thread starter
- #36
Been lazy for a while and having a baby also didn’t help bu finally put in some work and feel like I can put in a worthy bump. Never got into rock crawling but refocused my direction for my mods to be more overland oriented meaning comfort and reliability after taking my son, my buddy and his kids out for a day trip. Really looking forward to more camping adventures this summer.
I have since added the following:
Switched Prinsu rack to ARB full rack/basket
New procomp 315 ATS tires, really good on the road and not bad off-road, softer sidewall compared to my old falken but also lighter
Kings 3-5 inch 2.5 shocks, ride so nice but think I need to go to 3 inch lift...slippery sloop again
Rattle canned factory rims, held up surprisingly well but need touch up after got stuck in mud
New reman clippers at all 4 corners after finding a stuck piston when changing pads
All new ujoints On both drive shafts
Marlin crawler gear 25% low gear reduction
Arb low profile draw on one side
OME heavy springs
Gobi rear hatch ladder
Near futur projects:
Dual battery with ctek controller, waiting for Slee washer bottle relocation kit
Finish wits’end rear quarter panel mount
Finish SPOD wiring
LED light bars to SPOD
Debating on 3 inch springs
Trod ends
37 gallon long range gas tank
Another front axle rebuild and Maybe switch birf
ARB awning with the attached room
Plastidip hood camo tan
Landtank 2.5 inch plate, Oem bushing
Landtank or manefee rear control arms
I have since added the following:
Switched Prinsu rack to ARB full rack/basket
New procomp 315 ATS tires, really good on the road and not bad off-road, softer sidewall compared to my old falken but also lighter
Kings 3-5 inch 2.5 shocks, ride so nice but think I need to go to 3 inch lift...slippery sloop again
Rattle canned factory rims, held up surprisingly well but need touch up after got stuck in mud
New reman clippers at all 4 corners after finding a stuck piston when changing pads
All new ujoints On both drive shafts
Marlin crawler gear 25% low gear reduction
Arb low profile draw on one side
OME heavy springs
Gobi rear hatch ladder
Near futur projects:
Dual battery with ctek controller, waiting for Slee washer bottle relocation kit
Finish wits’end rear quarter panel mount
Finish SPOD wiring
LED light bars to SPOD
Debating on 3 inch springs
Trod ends
37 gallon long range gas tank
Another front axle rebuild and Maybe switch birf
ARB awning with the attached room
Plastidip hood camo tan
Landtank 2.5 inch plate, Oem bushing
Landtank or manefee rear control arms
