Lexus GX470 CV Axles (2 Viewers)

[HomersCanyonero]

Since my last post I ripped a few more boots, which worsened after lifting my GX. I switched to All-Pro high-angle boots and they have been great in my lifted application and are very tough. It's also easy to do them DIY. If you do have a non-OEM CV, you can get a remain for less than $100 or so from NAPA, then re-boot it with the high-angle boots. Re-booting is easy enough that I'm never going to both with a reman axle again, and have my two original OEM axles stored so they can be re-booted and swapped easily when the All-Pro boots eventually rip.

I was able to buy reman Toyota oem cv axles for $101 each from an online Toyota dealer in NC (no upfront tax, free shipping).

I can return my original ones to get my $75/ea core money back, but I’m thinking of keeping and re-booting them…or haveing someone reboot them for me

 

[Zanimal]

I was able to buy reman Toyota oem cv axles for $101 each from an online Toyota dealer in NC (no upfront tax, free shipping).

I can return my original ones to get my $75/ea core money back, but I’m thinking of keeping and re-booting them…or haveing someone reboot them for me

Hey there, do you have a link to that Toyota dealer?

 

[Rednexus]

I would just keep the old ones and re-boot them. It's such an easy job, especially if you have a bench vice. All a reman axle is is an OE axle that is cleaned and rebooted

 

[HomersCanyonero]

Hey there, do you have a link to that Toyota dealer?

434306008284 - Toyota Cv axle (left, right, front). Brakes | Fred Anderson Toyota, Raleigh NC

Genuine Toyota Part # 434306008284 (43430-60082-84) - Cv axle (left, right, front). Brakes, suspension, differential. Fits 4Runner, FJ Cruiser, GX 460. Ships from Fred Anderson Toyota, Raleigh NC

parts.fredandersontoyota.com

 

[xnova5]

that price seemed too good and similar to the chinese CV axles sold on rock auto or amazon. especially since a boot kit is about 50$ dollars alone how is toyota able to sell rebuilt axles for a measly 100$.

i did some digging and found a thread that discussed cheaper "value line" products:

Toyota "Value Line" new CV Axles - Any Experience?

My understanding and experience with the door actuators is they fail to move in high heat. No problem in winter, not hit summer days with sun beating down in the door. Even when they fail, the key still works, so never a worry of stranding. I’m thinking on the CV’s I want to have them rebuilt...

forum.ih8mud.com

at the moment i have some cheap Cardone CV axles on my truck and they are doing well so far, i took my truck wheeling climbing some steep rocky surfaces i 4LO and they didn't break. however i still plan on going back to OEM or CVJ.

 

[Rednexus]

that price seemed too good and similar to the chinese CV axles sold on rock auto or amazon. especially since a boot kit is about 50$ dollars alone how is toyota able to sell rebuilt axles for a measly 100$.

i did some digging and found a thread that discussed cheaper "value line" products:

Toyota "Value Line" new CV Axles - Any Experience?

My understanding and experience with the door actuators is they fail to move in high heat. No problem in winter, not hit summer days with sun beating down in the door. Even when they fail, the key still works, so never a worry of stranding. I’m thinking on the CV’s I want to have them rebuilt...

forum.ih8mud.com

at the moment i have some cheap Cardone CV axles on my truck and they are doing well so far, i took my truck wheeling climbing some steep rocky surfaces i 4LO and they didn't break. however i still plan on going back to OEM or CVJ.

The reman is just a disassembly and reboot with new grease, plus some cleaning. Maybe 15 minutes of hand labor per side for someone who does it all of the time, and less if the process is semi-automated. Buying the boots in bulk and using non-USA labor, Mr. T should be able to turn a profit on reman CVs. Most reman work is done in Mexico where the big companies have large factories. Either way, you're still getting an OEM axle with a reman, the only area to cut corners is on the actual boots themselves, the quality of grease, and the cleaning process (reman ones have always been pretty clean for me).

Cardone/NAPA reman CV boots do fine on a stock-height application but, in my experience, are pretty flimsy and rip easily in a lifted application where they don't run level. High-angle boots are the way to go and still cheaper than getting a reman set of Napa/Cardone/Toyota "value line" axles with stock-style boots.

 

[markthegrea]

I have two questions that are just trivia but thought you guys could clear up.

#1 Every video I have seen (maybe 3 or 4) alert you to setting the clip at the end of the cv correctly (open side up, if I remember) and sticking some grease to hold it there. I think this is an odd requirement on a spinning shaft. "So it will drop into the slot." Comments?

#2 I saw for the first time a guy using a sledge hammer to tap the joint into the diff from the wheel end of the cv. Is this common practice?

 

[Rednexus]

I have two questions that are just trivia but thought you guys could clear up.

#1 Every video I have seen (maybe 3 or 4) alert you to setting the clip at the end of the cv correctly (open side up, if I remember) and sticking some grease to hold it there. I think this is an odd requirement on a spinning shaft. "So it will drop into the slot." Comments?

#2 I saw for the first time a guy using a sledge hammer to tap the joint into the diff from the wheel end of the cv. Is this common practice?

I don't recall putting the clip on any particular way with mine; I recall it being reversible. The clip has a ton of spring force on it so it's not particularly easy to get on (or off, without horseshoe washer pliers). Grease or no grease should have no effect on holding the clip on.

Regarding a hammer, I have used a steel hammer in the past, but do not recommend it as you may damage the threads on the end of the CV axle and make it difficult to thread on the axle nut (last time I did this I had to clean up the threads with a file, which was very tedious). Hammer force will likely be needed to dislodge the CV from the hub, however. Use a brass hammer instead, this is softer than steel and should not damage the threads. I have since bought one and wish I would have done so a long time ago as it's a very useful wrenching tool in general.

Also, you'll likely damage the inner wheel bearing seals when you remove the CV. They are pretty inexpensive, so I'd have them on hand in case you need them (my local parts stores usually stock them, but they are much cheaper on Amazon).

 

[markthegrea]

Sorry, but I have one more question. None of the videos mention refilling the dif with fluid if some leaks out. I did the passenger side and no fluid leaked out. But this time I did the drivers side and maybe a cup full came out.

#3. Do you guys refill the dif if just a bit comes out, or do you leave it til next time you fill the dif?

Also, reguarding #1 above, the clip seems to expand on a horizontal axis (oposite sides) which would mean that it wouldn't matter which way you put it in: it will snap into the slot. It is odd that all the videos make this statement about pointing it down. Just an observation. Maybe you need to do that on a Chevy (that was a joke)?

 

[Rednexus]

If it's just a small amount (i.e., a few ounces) I typically don't bother refilling it, as I change my differential fluid yearly anyway. When I've lost more than a cup or so I have topped it off. It would be a good idea to have a bottle of gear oil on hand to top off if needed.

 

[FrontRunnerChris]

Personally, I may have been able to rebuild the OEM axels on my gx, but I decided going with a newer one and just replacing it would be easier for me. Here is the ones I went with! So far so good, they have no shown any kind of wear in the last 5 months as of yet!

Here's the link:

https://a.co/d/djoPwdU

 

[10sec]

BUMP.

Truck is completely stock height and just completely stock.

Just out of curiosity, when any of your front axles failed or were failing, did it seem like the wheel was coming off? I'm 99% sure it's the axle doing it, I knew the boot was torn but I wanted to wait until after winter to change it. I was driving 60mph, started to shimmy on the LF (where the noise is coming from) I pulled over because I thought my wheel was coming off, made sure everything felt nice and tight, which it did including the lug nuts. Went back out on the road, everything was perfectly fine until about 4-5 miles later, did it again and clunk, clunk, clunked super loud when I was turning into a parking lot. I then drove about 30-35mph because it seemed like slower speeds kept it away, but eventually it did it once more. I went out disc golfing for 3 hours, came back, drove it home 15 miles and it was fine the entire way home.

 

[markthegrea]

BUMP.

Truck is completely stock height and just completely stock.

Just out of curiosity, when any of your front axles failed or were failing, did it seem like the wheel was coming off? I'm 99% sure it's the axle doing it, I knew the boot was torn but I wanted to wait until after winter to change it. I was driving 60mph, started to shimmy on the LF (where the noise is coming from) I pulled over because I thought my wheel was coming off, made sure everything felt nice and tight, which it did including the lug nuts. Went back out on the road, everything was perfectly fine until about 4-5 miles later, did it again and clunk, clunk, clunked super loud when I was turning into a parking lot. I then drove about 30-35mph because it seemed like slower speeds kept it away, but eventually it did it once more. I went out disc golfing for 3 hours, came back, drove it home 15 miles and it was fine the entire way home.

That sounds like a bearing. That did NOT happen to me.

 

[10sec]

I thought the same with how it felt but the 15 mile ride home with zero noise or shake, or anything that would indicate that something was a foul made me post my post. I also should add, this morning, I went 50-60mph all the way to work and everything was fine I had zero curiosity something was going on. It just happened so fast, within 5 miles of leaving work.

 

[markthegrea]

I thought the same with how it felt but the 15 mile ride home with zero noise or shake, or anything that would indicate that something was a foul made me post my post. I also should add, this morning, I went 50-60mph all the way to work and everything was fine I had zero curiosity something was going on. It just happened so fast, within 5 miles of leaving work.

I felt a clunking/shimme once and discovered my lug nuts weren’t tight. Kinda embarrassing. My son had a good laugh.

 

[10sec]

I felt a clunking/shimme once and discovered my lug nuts weren’t tight. Kinda embarrassing. My son had a good laugh.

That's exactly what it felt like, I was worried it would fall off right in the middle of a 50mph 3 lane road. I'm 99.9% sure it's the CV, I bought a can of spray white lithium grease and sprayed it in the ripped boot to get me to the weekend. Went 60mph OTW to work this morning and OTW home and everything was completely fine, like nothing happened.

 

[V8ctor]

Personally, I may have been able to rebuild the OEM axels on my gx, but I decided going with a newer one and just replacing it would be easier for me. Here is the ones I went with! So far so good, they have no shown any kind of wear in the last 5 months as of yet!

Here's the link:

https://a.co/d/djoPwdU

Funny enough, I just finished replacing my driver side with this exact one, except I got it from rock auto for $69 + shipping. I rebuilt the OEM passenger side, but didn't want to deal with the mess so I just popped this one in. I'll keep this OEM one anyway to rebuild it later.

For anyone else reading this thread & considering this route, I HIGHLY recommend you remove the retainer clip from the OEM cv axle and pop into the new one. Idk why its such a hassle with the new clip. I hammered away with a 2lb rubber mallet & it wouldn't seat. Once I changed it, it went in with 2 good blows.

Also, don't rely on using a pry bar to push in the cardone axle; it doesn't have anything to "grab" onto. I put the axle nut onto the cv axle, just enough to protect the threads & hammered away. A bungee cord or gym resistance bands to hold it straight worked wonders.

Just some tid-bits I learned after swearing a bunch & reading/watching others do it.

 

[dnp]

In addition to the boot discussion, has anyone used the "affordable" CVs now available from Toyota? I assume they're available for the GX, because I just ordered a set of these from Toyota for my 100 for $106 each. Just curious, because I've always had a vibration on the aftermarket ones I replaced when I did my lift, and since these (at least for the 100) are priced so much lower, I was considering going ahead and replacing my 6 year old aftermarkets. Anyone have any experience with these?

 

[Rednexus]

They are probably basic reman axles, and likely done by one of the big remanufacturing companies (i.e., Cardone) and put in a Toyota box. They should be totally fine, since you'll likely be getting a used OEM axle that has been cleaned and rebooted with new grease. I'd be curious if there are any markings on the box indicating who did the reman, and if it uses actual Toyota CV boots or something else. The Cardone boots (even the HD) ones will definitely rip on a lifted GX. Presumably OEM boots would be less rip-prone.

If the Toyota axles do happen to be a garden variety Cardone axle with a Cardone boot, I'd personally skip them and just get a Cardone from NAPA instead. If they have a real Toyota boot they are probably a better option.

 

[NCgamecock]

If you can pull and replace fully assembled CV shafts, you have the skills to reboot them, its easy, just messy. Get OEM Toyota CV boot kits for an FJ Cruiser use a year of 2007, exact same kits for the Lexus. Two boots, bands and 4 bands. The bands do use custom tools for them so see if a local auto parts house rents them. OR go to hose clamps those work too. The kit comes with two tubes of grease. ONE is moly (gray balck) one is lithium-based(dingey white yellow), the lighter colored one, dingey white yellow, is the INNER and the gray back is the Outter.

1. Cut the OEM bands with a cut off disk. (try not to nick the CV'sand axle)
2. Yank the inner boot to the center of the shaft and slide off the inner cv bell
3. Remove the spring clip off the axle keeping the inner tri star in place.
4. Slide the inner CV off the shaft (might need to tap it with rubber/plastic mallet)
5. Slide both boots now off the shaft, toss
6. Use lots of rags and wipe all the grease off both CVs
7. Hold outer CV upright with the inner axle up. Fill CV with MOLY grease pack, roll inner axle around to distribute and add more grease
8. Slide outer boot in place and clamp.
9. Slide inner boot to the center of the axle
10. Slide Tri-star back onto axle and replace the clip.
11. Fill inner bell with lithium grease and put grease on tristar
12. Slide on inner bell over tri-star
13. Slide inner boot into place and clamp

DONE!

When you're talking about using a FJ Cruiser kit, is that because it provides higher angle boots? Or just the exact same as GX470, but Toyota parts will be cheaper?
Thanks!!!