Toyota "Value Line" new CV Axles - Any Experience? (1 Viewer)

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My understanding and experience with the door actuators is they fail to move in high heat. No problem in winter, not hit summer days with sun beating down in the door.
Even when they fail, the key still works, so never a worry of stranding.
I’m thinking on the CV’s I want to have them rebuilt instead of buying new. Supposed to be a great shop in the Denver area that does rebuilds.

If yours are OEM, you can buy a kit that's just the outers for lots less than the full axle. Requires that you do all the labor of the rebuild, but you get to keep everything OEM. It's generally the outers that wear out anyway. Boot kits are also available (can't remember if that's included with the outer kit).
 
If yours are OEM, you can buy a kit that's just the outers for lots less than the full axle. Requires that you do all the labor of the rebuild, but you get to keep everything OEM. It's generally the outers that wear out anyway. Boot kits are also available (can't remember if that's included with the outer kit).
New boots do come with outer kit.
 
So I picked up my "value line" axle today. Upon initial inspection it did seem like a nicer unit than the new Cardone unit I installed previously.

IMG_8301.jpeg


Looking a little closer...

IMG_8301.jpeg


I'll be swapping this one for a new OE Toyota. I'm willing to redo it once, but the next one I put in is staying. So I'm not taking any chances.
 
So I picked up my "value line" axle today. Upon initial inspection it did seem like a nicer unit than the new Cardone unit I installed previously.

View attachment 2488567

Looking a little closer...

View attachment 2488566

I'll be swapping this one for a new OE Toyota. I'm willing to redo it once, but the next one I put in is staying. So I'm not taking any chances.

And 66-5185, that's a Cardone part number. Yup...that's a reboxed Cardone unit. 🍿🍿🍿

You made the right choice. I've been there where I've had to do the labour xxx amount of times because 1- rebuilt Detroit axle spit grease on installation then blew the boot 3k miles later 2- Cardone HD unit spit grease out of boot on install, and vibrated 3- warranty replacement Cardone roared like a bad wheel bearing 4 - had enough and got $400 to buy a OEM Toyoda one

It fit so well to the new splines to the new hub part. The cardones never fit on without further filing.

SmartSelect_20201106-235400_Chrome.jpg
 
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My understanding and experience with the door actuators is they fail to move in high heat. No problem in winter, not hit summer days with sun beating down in the door.
Even when they fail, the key still works, so never a worry of stranding.

When they failed on my 80 the door key cylinders were also seized due to lack of use. So yes, I was stranded, but luckily I was at home depot and was able to buy some liquid wrench that got me free after some work. Now I brake clean them and use graphite lube every oil change.


I am not a CV expert. NAPA has OEM looking rebuilt CVs sometimes. Would we expect toyota rebuilts to be a much better option than these?
 
So I picked up my "value line" axle today. Upon initial inspection it did seem like a nicer unit than the new Cardone unit I installed previously.

View attachment 2488567

Looking a little closer...

View attachment 2488566

I'll be swapping this one for a new OE Toyota. I'm willing to redo it once, but the next one I put in is staying. So I'm not taking any chances.

Possibly made by Wohn Parts Ltd. in China.


66-5185HD cost $64.79 at Rock Auto - then get a 5% IH8MUD discount.

1605365271461.png
 
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My Cardone new CV shaft on the driver side just popped out after about 9 months and 2000 miles. It was a beast to get in. Never buy this junk. Its made in China crap. Retainer ring was difficult in and must have given out. The passenger was worse to get in but still workng. I going to have to track down a deal on oem. If anyone knows cheapest place let me know.
 
Your best bet would be to convince your local dealership to give your local MUD Clubhouse a decent discount, if possible. We receive a very nice discount locally. A brand new OEM axle from the local dealership costs under $500 picked up.

Shower, shave, scrub your fingernails, and give it a whirl at your local dealership.
 
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My Cardone new CV shaft on the driver side just popped out after about 9 months and 2000 miles. It was a beast to get in. Never buy this junk. Its made in China crap. Retainer ring was difficult in and must have given out. The passenger was worse to get in but still workng. I going to have to track down a deal on oem. If anyone knows cheapest place let me know.
I had a pair of those Cardone HD s***ters - started clicking and popping after 5k miles.

Cheapest route is to find some used OEM axles with good inner joints and inboard splines for $50 and then buy new OEM outboard joints with tulip for $180.
 
When they failed on my 80 the door key cylinders were also seized due to lack of use. So yes, I was stranded, but luckily I was at home depot and was able to buy some liquid wrench that got me free after some work. Now I brake clean them and use graphite lube every oil change.


I am not a CV expert. NAPA has OEM looking rebuilt CVs sometimes. Would we expect toyota rebuilts to be a much better option than these?
Couple different threads on this but NAPA is rebranded Cardone HD.

Toyota should be new, not rebuilt and Non-Cardone if at all possible. Hell you can rebuild axles pretty easily, so if you can find some OE axles with trashed outer splines for cheap, you can grab new outer shafts to mate to the OE inners (which rarely are bad or the problem) and have new OE axles for cheap. That is what I ended up doing, another MUDDER sent me his inners for cheap, then bought the outer kit which came with everything for a rebuild (grease, boots, snap rings, end ring, etc.) and only took me a couple hours to rebuild both. I wanna say that my total cost was just under $600 for both for me to do that.
 
Couple different threads on this but NAPA is rebranded Cardone HD.

Toyota should be new, not rebuilt and Non-Cardone if at all possible. Hell you can rebuild axles pretty easily, so if you can find some OE axles with trashed outer splines for cheap, you can grab new outer shafts to mate to the OE inners (which rarely are bad or the problem) and have new OE axles for cheap. That is what I ended up doing, another MUDDER sent me his inners for cheap, then bought the outer kit which came with everything for a rebuild (grease, boots, snap rings, end ring, etc.) and only took me a couple hours to rebuild both. I wanna say that my total cost was just under $600 for both for me to do that.
I did the same...but for $400 total for both 😬
 
Couple different threads on this but NAPA is rebranded Cardone HD.

Toyota should be new, not rebuilt and Non-Cardone if at all possible. Hell you can rebuild axles pretty easily, so if you can find some OE axles with trashed outer splines for cheap, you can grab new outer shafts to mate to the OE inners (which rarely are bad or the problem) and have new OE axles for cheap. That is what I ended up doing, another MUDDER sent me his inners for cheap, then bought the outer kit which came with everything for a rebuild (grease, boots, snap rings, end ring, etc.) and only took me a couple hours to rebuild both. I wanna say that my total cost was just under $600 for both for me to do that.
Funny, the inners have always been what have gone for me. The balls go bad.
 
Funny, the inners have always been what have gone for me. The balls go bad.
Interesting... Either way you can get both parts separately. Most axle failures that I have seen on here are the splines on the outboard axle getting chewed up for one reason or another. I guess it is a definite possibility after lots of miles or lots of wheeling that the inner ball bearings or the cage may get worn.
 
Most axle failures that I have seen on here are the splines on the outboard axle getting chewed up for one reason or another.
Yup
 
Funny, the inners have always been what have gone for me. The balls go bad.
Inner wore out on mine, as well as outer splines worn. Addition to the inner ball bearings wearing, the cage that hold them and the ramps on the inside tulip they slide along also wear- IMO not worth trying to piece together new outers to old inners unless you can inspect and determine condition.
 
As you can see here, this is what OEM new looks like:

View attachment 2487075View attachment 2487076

And as I indicated earlier, the shaft is manufactured by Toyoda Industries/JTEKT:

View attachment 2487077

The rubber boots are manufactured by Toyoda Gosei (indicated by their “TG” logo) which is a main Toyota Group company that manufactures many rubber parts for the Land Cruiser series vehicles historically.

View attachment 2487079

So I think I still have one OEM on my LC100? Lucky?

1615236248594.png
 
Couple different threads on this but NAPA is rebranded Cardone HD.

Toyota should be new, not rebuilt and Non-Cardone if at all possible. Hell you can rebuild axles pretty easily, so if you can find some OE axles with trashed outer splines for cheap, you can grab new outer shafts to mate to the OE inners (which rarely are bad or the problem) and have new OE axles for cheap. That is what I ended up doing, another MUDDER sent me his inners for cheap, then bought the outer kit which came with everything for a rebuild (grease, boots, snap rings, end ring, etc.) and only took me a couple hours to rebuild both. I wanna say that my total cost was just under $600 for both for me to do that.
NAPA has severed ties with Cardone. I have used their axle and it mated very nicely with my used flange.
 
NAPA has severed ties with Cardone. I have used their axle and it mated very nicely with my used flange.
Good to know!
There have been plenty of guys that found that they are/were still using the old part number that is used for both. Probably one of those things where the old stock is getting filtered out.
 

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