Builds Lexus 450 rebuild

[amgraham]

Ugh, that sucks. Looks like a full rebuild or another motor is in order. Probably got way too hot when the gasket blew (or they kept driving it blown).

 

[sandcruiser80]

So... I’m choosing not to rebuild because it just got way to hot and I don’t wanna deal with this motor anymore. Looks like I will be buying a refurbished motor from CruiserParts, but not this week... or next but soon. It looks like the previous owner had been dumping stop leak into this one and it clogged the water jackets and the pistons got so hot that they started to melt and causing the failure of the HG. Here’s some pics for y’alls amusement.

 

[amgraham]

There's been some discussion in other threads the Toyota still stocks a few brand new long blocks. Just sayin'.

 

[D21FJ60]

In the past our experience with Cruiserparts has been reliable and no problems, but it sounds like not everyone has that pleasure
CruiserParts.net Scam Scam Scammers just fysa.

 

[sandcruiser80]

It’s been a few since I have posted and not much has happened with the truck, closer look at the back of the head where #7 cap was, had been chewed away by something. Who knows at this point so I’m not super hopeful about that head being salvaged. But so on..I plan on getting a new motor from AAA engine in California. I have 90% of the accessories off the block and oils pans (yes both) pretty much off. Removed the oil pump today and it sure was nasty. You can see where I rubbed the yellowish muck off it? New or clean it?? Also, I’m in a pretty small storage unit and don’t have the space or a engine lift to get the motor out but I am upgrading to a bigger unit next month. I can push it to the new unit thankfully. I want to do this right and that means I’d wanna pull the tranny out with it and put the new motor and tranny and as many accessories as I can out of the truck. Turning out to be a bigger project then I wanted but oh well

 

[D21FJ60]

V8 swap it?

 

[sandcruiser80]

I would love to throw a 4.7 in there but that’ll turn into a way bigger project and I know nothing about the mounts and transmission and dealing with the wiring would be a nightmare. I’d rather keep it 1FZ and get it running for a while before I do something like that

 

[sandcruiser80]

I also have a 1994 Land Cruiser with 156k miles and runs great. If I were to strip that motor down to the block, and strip the head of everything. Would my 97 stuff bolts back onto it??

 

[Wompom]

I also have a 1994 Land Cruiser with 156k miles and runs great. If I were to strip that motor down to the block, and strip the head of everything. Would my 97 stuff bolts back onto it??

Not sure anyone has had good experiences with any of the motor rebuilders for 1fzs. Most (myself included) seem to have realized its do it yourself rebuild or swap it to a v8, diesel, etc. if you want to know that it's been done properly.

97 vs 94 is gonna be OBDI vs OBDII motors. I think a few sensors are different and you can use a newer block in an older rig but not vice versa? Not 100% sure but i know there are differences in the different years.

 

[D21FJ60]

Any updates?

 

[sandcruiser80]

I’m currently driving up to buffalo to pick up a new motor. I will have updated in a few days. Updated my shop a few days ago. Take a look.

 

[D21FJ60]

That sounds like a good time! Shop is cleaner than mine (driveway and dirt floor nasty garage)

 

[sandcruiser80]

Alright! So I got myself a new used motor with 120k miles on it, she’s a little dirty but it’ll do. I am not moving very fast on the truck right now because it’s 5 million degrees in my shop in the day time and it’s pratctly unbearable. I still need to get the other motor out of the truck, don’t have much help that would like to work in a standing sweat. I have a new 2nd oil pan and lower that’s going on this motor. More pics and details coming.

 

[sandcruiser80]

Not sure anyone has had good experiences with any of the motor rebuilders for 1fzs. Most (myself included) seem to have realized its do it yourself rebuild or swap it to a v8, diesel, etc. if you want to know that it's been done properly.

97 vs 94 is gonna be OBDI vs OBDII motors. I think a few sensors are different and you can use a newer block in an older rig but not vice versa? Not 100% sure but i know there are differences in the different years.

I found out you cannot get an older block to work with ODB2

 

[sandcruiser80]

Hey y'all, So I'm sitting here ordering more parts and such and I was thinking about how there was so much stop leak in my motor is was pretty crazy. Then I started overthinking about how much stop leak could be in the heater cores (front & rear) and what the hell I should do about it... Any input would be appreciated. I was just gonna flush them out with distilled water. A hand pump with a 5 gallon bucket and a filter on the output and flush it both ways.. What do y'all think? I do not wanna put to much pressure on the core and turn it into burnt toast also. Cheers!

 

[voorland80]

Hey y'all, So I'm sitting here ordering more parts and such and I was thinking about how there was so much stop leak in my motor is was pretty crazy. Then I started overthinking about how much stop leak could be in the heater cores (front & rear) and what the hell I should do about it... Any input would be appreciated. I was just gonna flush them out with distilled water. A hand pump with a 5 gallon bucket and a filter on the output and flush it both ways.. What do y'all think? I do not wanna put to much pressure on the core and turn it into burnt toast also. Cheers!

Sounds like a start. Check flow and give it your best assessment. I haven't had to dive this far but maybe someone else on here has been down this road. Anyone???
Thanks for the posts and for sharing what you're going through.

 

[amgraham]

I would use some CLR. I've done it on mine.. Just pour it into the lines and fill it up then let it sit for an hour or so then flush it really good. Should at least get any loose stuff out.

 

[Cass007]

My engine was full of BARS stop leak and forever will be (thanx PO). I've changed radiators, and replaced all the hard pipes and rubber hoses as well as swapping distilled H2O with cleaning agent in it 6 or 7 times ... it's still brown, but my heat works fine and the truck doesn't run hot, so I'm over caring about it now.

Yours may have had the Blue Devil in it, much less damage done with that vs the BARS.

I hooked up some hoses to the heater core and ran water through it till it came out clear. The truck would have to have no heat before I started tearing the dash apart to get at things. I would focus on your engine replacement and getting things up and running, then troubleshoot from there.

You are doing a good job, keep up the solid progress.

 

[sandcruiser80]

That is insane!! I don’t think mine was this bad but iv got a new motor to drop in and I am replacing the rear heater lines and plan on removing the rear heater and flushing that out, outside the car. I’m gonna flush the firewall heater core as much as I can, at least 4-5 before I add CLR and then 4-5 after that plus replacing the hoses and flushing radiator or maybe replace. Haven’t decided yet, but wow!! I would have hot tanked it at your point. ****ed.... the photo I posted is from the thermostat housing. I guess that would be the blue stuff...

 

[BILT4ME]

Your "new" engine has 120K.

Any history?

How long since it has been run?

Any compression numbers for it?

Extended storage on a stationary engine can be a bad thing. Rings get stuck, valves get stuck, seals dry out and as so as you fire it up, they start leaking.

From my old vehicle experience, and reviving something that has been sitting, if I was planning on making this a reliable DD, I would still open up the "new" one and go through the HG and check out the cylinders if I have never seen or heard it run.

I wish you the best!

I believe the bolt-on items are what changes from OBD1 to OBD2, and this would be the timing cover primarily for the crank sensor. The head should already have the ports for the knock sensors.