So today I picked up a 1997 Lexus 450 with 297k miles and it came with a blown head gasket. Starting this thread to get help along the way of the rebuild. I will post another update tomorrow when it’s daylight and I can have a good look at it!
Builds Lexus 450 rebuild (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter sandcruiser80
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Congrats. I'm pretty sure I saw this one for sale and was tempted to go snag it just because it looked really clean. Hope it goes well!
- Thread starter
- #3
I got it off craigslist Richmond for 1500$ and its super clean! I got most off the stuff around the head taken off today and gonna deal with the wiring harness tomorrow when I have time to carefully do it. Any suggestions? Got all my parts in bags and labeled accordingly.
Yep, that's the one. Good snag. Do all the vacuum and coolant lines that are hard to get to with all that stuff in place. Oh, and the fuel filter. There's a ton of threads to read around here for tips on the "while you're there" slippery slope. Also thoroughly check out the cooling system to make sure something like a clogged radiator or dead fan clutch caused it to pop the head gasket to start with. Get a machine shop to check over the head and replace at least the valve seals.
Oh, and don't cheap out on the head gasket kit. Those ebay ones aren't worth a damn.
Oh, and don't cheap out on the head gasket kit. Those ebay ones aren't worth a damn.
Get the OEM head gasket kit. Do as much as possible while you are in there including all the vac lines under the upper plenum, PHH, good time to purge the rear heater core as well if it's still hooked up (it looks like it is). Do the belts and all of the gaskets and o-rings on the front of the motor now as well since it will all be right there.
Pull the harness out from the top, meaning from behind the glove box, not the bottom as stated in the FSM. This is how I did it for the head gasket. Much easier that way than trying to get the connections near the trans apart imho.
Pull the harness out from the top, meaning from behind the glove box, not the bottom as stated in the FSM. This is how I did it for the head gasket. Much easier that way than trying to get the connections near the trans apart imho.
Looks like a real score.
My main suggestion is that you do not reuse the head bolts. Beyond that read up on mud and build a "while you are in there list" based on what makes sense to you and what you read from the many others who have done this job. As stated above that should at least include all water hoses and vac. lines. etc. Basically, anything that you remove or have easy access to during the HG job should be considered for refurbishing/replacement and any common issues like oil leaks/etc. that you have easy access to should be addressed now vs. later if you plan to keep the truck for a while.
My main suggestion is that you do not reuse the head bolts. Beyond that read up on mud and build a "while you are in there list" based on what makes sense to you and what you read from the many others who have done this job. As stated above that should at least include all water hoses and vac. lines. etc. Basically, anything that you remove or have easy access to during the HG job should be considered for refurbishing/replacement and any common issues like oil leaks/etc. that you have easy access to should be addressed now vs. later if you plan to keep the truck for a while.
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- #7
Thank you! How do y’all get the exhaust manifold off? I don’t have a FSM to refer too, iv got the bolts off the studs on both side but can’t find a good way and don’t wanna yank it too hard
Double check the exhaust manifold studs/nuts, especially towards the rear of the engine, to make sure you've removed all of them. I don't recall any issues removing the manifolds on mine except for missing one nut near cylinder #6 initially. Perhaps you lightly/carefully tap around on the manifolds a few times with a hammer then gently pry in various places until they loosen and pop off. I'd mainly be careful of damaging any gasket surfaces but you've got lots of places to gently pry without needing to damage things.
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Did you remove the clamp at the bell housing?
For Sale - 40, 50, 60, and 80 series FSM for a hell of a price.
[new edit] go here instead - Resources - https://forum.ih8mud.com/resources/ It's an end of an era my friends. As of tomorrow I'm being forced by my isp provider to shut this down. I just cannot take the chance on losing my hosting for my e-mail and other things. I'm working on finding a...
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Have reused head bolts on a bunch of them. Don't have a problem with it, the first time, second head job, replace. Mine has reused head bolts and a Mahle gasket set, have also had good results with Beck/Arnley head sets.
D21FJ60
#LiveLaughLove.
So glad this went to a mudder
You definitely have way more experience than I do and I encourage the OP (and anyone else) to follow your suggestions in all cases, especially over mine
That being said, I'll at least explain my recommendation even though it's probably a bit OCD. I have only 1 HG replacement job on a 1fzfe and I had one bolt stretch during the torque process. The head had never been off before I replaced the HG, the HG had not failed prior to my replacing it and the bolts all measured within spec per the FSM notes on the subject so I chose to reuse the OG head bolts. The fact that all but one torqued fine supports your experience of successful reuse. It wasn't a big deal to just replace and retorque the single stretched bolt but it was unsettling and made me wish that I had just replaced all of the bolts given all of the other costs/efforts that I put into the HG replacement job on my 80.
You beat me to it on this one but I wasn't too excited to do another head gasket so soon. My son and I found a similar score about 6 months ago - clean LX with a blown HG.
The advice I can add is to be sure to keep the cam shims in the correct location and double check the clearance once you get the cams back in. You may also find OTRAMM's videos helpful.
You can also search for OTRAMM on YouTube.
The advice I can add is to be sure to keep the cam shims in the correct location and double check the clearance once you get the cams back in. You may also find OTRAMM's videos helpful.
You can also search for OTRAMM on YouTube.
- Thread starter
- #14
Appreciate all the advice guys! I’ll give y’all the run down of what’s going on right now. Being that this truck is super clean and rust free I’m not having issues unbolting things at this time lol! I did get the lower intake off and exhaust manifold off today! Down the inside of the Y pipe looks very clean also. Looking inside the head however, looks like A LOT of carbon build up all over! Right now the truck is out side and I don’t feel comfortable taking the valve cover or head off, I live on the water and it would start surface rusting in hours I bet haha. I have sealed any part of the motor that’s exposed by stuffing paper towels into the holes immediately. Hopefully get it into a local storage unit this week sometime, then the head will come off and parts will start to trickle in. Going to do it all while I’m in there, OEM as well, gonna make a list tomorrow morning and will post and see what everyone thinks. I’m located on the OBX and need to find a good shop to do the head for me as I was about to send it to Land Cruiser Heaven but the Mud community has slashed his reputation apart and i no longer trust anyone but myself. If you want it done your way, do it yourself.
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- #15
I removed all the bolts and studs (I did not have a E8 I think it is) bolt but went to autozone and got a set And they all came out very easy.Did you remove the clamp at the bell housing?
For Sale - 40, 50, 60, and 80 series FSM for a hell of a price.
[new edit] go here instead - Resources - https://forum.ih8mud.com/resources/ It's an end of an era my friends. As of tomorrow I'm being forced by my isp provider to shut this down. I just cannot take the chance on losing my hosting for my e-mail and other things. I'm working on finding a...
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If you remove the clamp that holds the pipe to the bracket from the bell housing, it would have come right off.
The local NAPA machine shop near me did the valve seals and checked the clearances. Price was very reasonable too.
Spend time once the head is at the machine shop and watch all of the rest of the OTRAMM vids. There is a little trick with reinstalling the alternator that save some time and hassle.
You are making great progress. Keep up the good work.
Spend time once the head is at the machine shop and watch all of the rest of the OTRAMM vids. There is a little trick with reinstalling the alternator that save some time and hassle.
You are making great progress. Keep up the good work.
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- #19
Been a couple days but I have ordered A LOT of parts and tools, will keep y’all updated when i pull the head and start organizing my parts. What’s y’alls luck with re using the head bolts vs arp studs, can they be installed with the engine still in the truck? Cheers
- Thread starter
- #20
I got the head pulled today and I’m kinda not that happy. Looks like there is metal melted to the piston wall on cylinder number 5 and 2. 2 is one very small shard but 5... 5 has a lot. It’s at TDC and I don’t know what 1 and 6 look like but I’m sure it’s not good. Head gasket blew at 6 for sure.
