Lets start the day with a dumb AC question....

[mkonecek]

I'm at work and don't have my truck with me. 05 LX.
It is blowing warm air when I let it idle too long. At lights or stop signs, its cold.....freezing cold.
My wife parked in front of a store and let it idle for 10 min or so and it got hot.

After driving it, the clutch moved freely and stopped without free spinning when the truck was shut down. I think the clutch is good.

Am I supposed to have a factory condenser fan? Location? Would low Freon cause this?
Again, don't have the truck here to look over. Never let it idle that long before so no reason to even ask.

 

[Lowbudgetlc100]

could be a few problems.
low freon
aux fan not turning
compressor.

first i would check if you are low on freon. if you are low the aux fan wont turn and compressor wont turn.

 

[mkonecek]

could be a few problems.
low freon
aux fan not turning
compressor.

first i would check if you are low on freon. if you are low the aux fan wont turn and compressor wont turn.

Okay. I will check Freon first. Where is the aux fan located? I assume it would be forward of the radiator under the horns. Nothing there.

 

[spressomon]

Toyota did away with the aux A/C fan on later MY 100's/470's so you weren't supposed to have it anyway. If the system blows cold as you stated then its most certainly a air over the condenser issue and/or volume of refrigerant...most likely. I'm a little confused about your description of the fan clutch. The fan should not be easy to rotate when the engine is at operating temperature. Otherwise...its not doing its job of pulling air into and past the condenser.

The fan clutch works via fluid sheer. Over time the fluid can either leak out or simply breaks down and becomes less effective at locking up. FWIW I've even had bad brand new fan clutches...and resorted to draining and filling with higher CST silicone fluid (plenty of threads about same in the 80 and 100 forums)...to get higher rpm lockup...a big improvement especially when doing slower speed trail work on hot days.

 

[mkonecek]

Toyota did away with the aux A/C fan on later MY 100's/470's so you weren't supposed to have it anyway. If the system blows cold as you stated then its most certainly a air over the condenser issue and/or volume of refrigerant...most likely. I'm a little confused about your description of the fan clutch. The fan should not be easy to rotate when the engine is at operating temperature. Otherwise...its not doing its job of pulling air into and past the condenser.

The fan clutch works via fluid sheer. Over time the fluid can either leak out or simply becomes less effective at locking up. FWIW I've even had bad brand new fan clutches...and resorted to draining and filling with higher CST silicone fluid (plenty of threads about same in the 80 and 100 forums)...

Good...I didn't see a fan and questioned that not knowing if it had a prior collision.
I compared the fan clutch feel to my 04 Tacoma, both at operating temp. both feel the same. They don't spin freely, have noticeable resistance and I know the Tacoma works properly. I will start with Freon levels and go from there.....thanks for the assist.

 

[Lowbudgetlc100]

Okay. I will check Freon first. Where is the aux fan located? I assume it would be forward of the radiator under the horns. Nothing there.

right up front behind the grill you will see it looking through the grill

 

[spressomon]

Be careful not to overfill with refrigerant...that's worse than not having enough. If you opt to do the job yourself you should pay an A/C shop to evac the existing refrigerant. Then AutoZone will loan you the gauge set and vac pump with a ~$300 deposit. I also recommend adding dye to your system so you can more easily find leak location(s) if/when necessary. Lots of good YouTube videos for how to.

 

[mkonecek]

Be careful not to overfill with refrigerant...that's worse than not having enough. If you opt to do the job yourself you should pay an A/C shop to evac the existing refrigerant. Then AutoZone will loan you the gauge set and vac pump with a ~$300 deposit. I also recommend adding dye to your system so you can more easily find leak location(s) if/when necessary. Lots of good YouTube videos for how to.

I appreciate the advice. Thankfully, I work for a BMW store and have a few techs at my disposal...just wish I still worked for Toyota.

 

[PADDO]

You can do a quick assessment of refrigerant charge volume by observing the bubbles and foaming in the sight glass, I've posted the fsm page on how to/what to look for in one of the other ac no worky threads. It's a useful, free, non invasive check. As 'espresso says, if it's cold whilst moving or at short stops but warm when stopped for long periods then that points to insufficient airflow, slipping fan. Don't spend to long looking for the aux ac fan.

 

[Ermagerd]

Paddo and spressomon have good recommendations. It does seem like an airflow issue (fan clutch?), but you need to confirm a proper charge first. Your BMW tech friends can stick gauges on it and eliminate that possibility pretty fast. If its low, toss some dye in it before you try to replace anything.

 

[bucfl]

I also have a dumb AC question for today.

I noticed a few days ago that the air thru the vents will sporadically blow at higher speed, then settle back.

Is this normal? I thought id ask here since it's an AC question.

 

[spressomon]

Sidebar response : If your HVAC is set to "Auto" then I presume it is changing between Recirculated and non-Recirculated air; hence a pressure difference at the vent outlet. And/or straight dash vents to dash & foot/lower vent combo. That's the only explains I can come up with.

 

[bucfl]

So.... lets say it was not in auto. The AC blows cool then the air blows faster with slightly cooler air.

 

[ponytl]

I've posted this before... but you would be amazed at the amount of debris I've flushed/washed from radiator fins if air can't pass through they cannot remove heat... I see this on a lot of commercial a/c units
p

 

[mkonecek]

So.... lets say it was not in auto. The AC blows cool then the air blows faster with slightly cooler air.

If it was a BMW, I would replace the blower resistor (final stage). Very common component failure.

 

[bucfl]

@mkonecek Thank you for the suggestion. I did search that part on mud. The blower resistor failure results in only two fan speeds working.

My fan works, but the volume of air fluctuates from blowing allot of air to low volume being blown. I have replicated this when the AC is set to auto as well today. It happens on any temperature i set it to.

Could this part maybe going bad? And eventually once it fails will only have two speed settings working?

Here is the thread i found on this.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/heater-defrost-fan-switch-problem.345793/

 

[mkonecek]

@mkonecek Thank you for the suggestion. I did search that part on mud. The blower resistor failure results in only two fan speeds working.

My fan works, but the volume of air fluctuates from blowing allot of air to low volume being blown. I have replicated this when the AC is set to auto as well today. It happens on any temperature i set it to.

Could this part maybe going bad? And eventually once it fails will only have two speed settings working?

Here is the thread i found on this.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/heater-defrost-fan-switch-problem.345793/

Usually, if the resistor is failing, you will have fluctuation until the blower finally quits.

 

[mkonecek]

You can do a quick assessment of refrigerant charge volume by observing the bubbles and foaming in the sight glass, I've posted the fsm page on how to/what to look for in one of the other ac no worky threads. It's a useful, free, non invasive check. As 'espresso says, if it's cold whilst moving or at short stops but warm when stopped for long periods then that points to insufficient airflow, slipping fan. Don't spend to long looking for the aux ac fan.

I had the Freon level checked. Its good. I think Im gonna replace the fan clutch tonight.

 

[bucfl]

Thank you sir! Ill look into a new blower resistor.

Usually, if the resistor is failing, you will have fluctuation until the blower finally quits.

 

[mkonecek]

Here's an update. I might be repeating things...my apologies.
Had the Freon level checked by my Toyota tech when he did my timing belt/water pump/tensioners/drive belt, etc.
Level is good. On the way home I noticed that I would get a vibration when stopped from the compressor. Could be from the new drive belt, could also be due to a lower than normal idle. I have also found that a low idle can cause the compressor to turn off while sitting for a bit in the heat. My wife said that she got hot air while waiting for the kids at school yesterday. Last night I tried to get something to happen and it worked perfectly.
Taking it to my tech today to perform a throttle body service. Hoping this will correct my idle and fix everything. I doubt it will but here's to trying.
Also gonna replace my radiator/overflow cap. temps reached 220 last night while investigating ac. may be normal but what the hell, its cheap.

I will update after my visit.