Lets play help the noob with his new Viair Compressor (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Apr 14, 2008
Threads
367
Messages
5,800
Location
North of LA California
I got a deal on a used 550C VIAR compressor (not dust resistant so must be mounted inside) and 2.5 Gal Tank w/ 5 ports. I have searched the site, Viair's site, and other sources but I still have basic questions:

I want to know how to wire it up and setup the air lines. I know I need a drain cock to remove moisture (insert dirty joke here.) I know I need a pressure switch to maintain pressure in the tank. I know I need a safety valve on the compressor so I don't blow it up. I'd like an in cabin gauge and switch (VIAIR sells one.)

QUESTIONS: :hmm:

1. Where can I find a detailed diagram for this setup? I know there's things I'm missing and I want to do it correctly.

2. What are the best rubber dampeners to use when mouting the compressor?

3. Possible mounting spot in drivers rear quarter panel. I'd like to feed 2 Ga wire? back there in case I want to mount an inverter or other mods back there in the future.

As always your expertise is much appreciated. I love learning about these things and installing them myself but without the knowledge of mud members I'd be in the dark ages.

GO!:popcorn:
 
Last edited:
1. Silver Star Customs - Gallery :: How To :: wiring_schematic

2. Should be able to find something that'll work at most hardware/automotive stores.

3. You could do it where you suggested or possibly mount the tank on the frame rail if you have the room. I would not "splice" anything when using an amp... you'll pick up "noise" while other acc. are in use.
 
1. Silver Star Customs - Gallery :: How To :: wiring_schematic

2. Should be able to find something that'll work at most hardware/automotive stores.

3. You could do it where you suggested or possibly mount the tank on the frame rail if you have the room. I would not "splice" anything when using an amp... you'll pick up "noise" while other acc. are in use.

I'm sorry, typo, for question number three I meant inverter not amplifier. I want to run AC plugs in the rear for electric tools such as sawzall and angle grinder. Or other stuff like juice for people's laptops on the road.
 
Great diagram. Thanks for the link!
 
Grinders draw a lo of juice, youll want at least a 1000W inverter, id go about 1500w or better, these can be pretty bulky and will be a strain on the rest of your electrical system if used alot.
However can be mounted cleanly, there is a neat thread about this in the 80's section at the moment.
 
Do people use sawzalls and grinders on the trail or is that just wishful thinking? If it's gonna take too big of an inverter then I'll tone down my ideas.
 
I would suggest an isolated stud at the rear terminus of the cable. Then you can easily tap into that with what ever future addition might come along (power for a fridge, charge wire for trailer batteries, etc. etc., etc.). Though 2 ga. can carry a lot of current (fused or breakered at the battery?) you might want to consider the next size bigger cable if the odds of all of that getting added are high.

If grinders & sawzall's are foreseen I would suggest going to something like the Milwaukee cordless. That will offer the tools desired and reduce the Inverter size down to something only big enough to charge those batteries. Shop for the best brand that uses the same battery in the appliances you'll most likely want. I mention the Milwaukee brand because I had reason to use one of their cordless impacts in the middle of a desert race to rapidly change a tire and came away from that event thoroughly impressed.
 
I would suggest an isolated stud at the rear terminus of the cable. Then you can easily tap into that with what ever future addition might come along (power for a fridge, charge wire for trailer batteries, etc. etc., etc.). Though 2 ga. can carry a lot of current (fused or breakered at the battery?) you might want to consider the next size bigger cable if the odds of all of that getting added are high.

If grinders & sawzall's are foreseen I would suggest going to something like the Milwaukee cordless. That will offer the tools desired and reduce the Inverter size down to something only big enough to charge those batteries. Shop for the best brand that uses the same battery in the appliances you'll most likely want. I mention the Milwaukee brand because I had reason to use one of their cordless impacts in the middle of a desert race to rapidly change a tire and came away from that event thoroughly impressed.

Good idea on the crodless. Can you elaborate on an "isolated stud?" Not familiar with this type of electrical connection.
 
So running 1 Ga wire back to the passenger rear kick panel would bring enough juice back for the compressor, inverter, and any other crazy things right?
 
if you want a pressure switch/relay combo for the comressor just let me know. I bought one for my York compressor install and will not need it. it's brand new. i'll give it to ya cheap just to get it off my hands.


Viair - Your Vital Air Source.

it's the 110/150 one
 
if you want a pressure switch/relay combo for the comressor just let me know. I bought one for my York compressor install and will not need it. it's brand new. i'll give it to ya cheap just to get it off my hands.


Viair - Your Vital Air Source.

it's the 110/150 one

Rover,
The guy that sold me the Viair Comp. is looking for the fittings and relay setup he bought with it. If he finds it then he'll give it to me for free. If he doesn't then I would definitely be interested. I'll let you know by next week. Thanks for the offer.
 
Sure thing, I will not be using mine so just let me know. PM me in case i don't see the thread.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom