Leaky Rear Hatch - Need Help with Install (1 Viewer)

[Wrencher93]

I've searched off and on for a couple days on this topic but I have yet to find anything that directly addresses my issue. There are multiple threads and videos about 80 series cruisers having leaks in one place or another but few of them are very complete. I found out last week, when I tried to give it a thorough interior cleaning that the carpet in the cargo area was wet. I removed the rubber mat and the factory carpet to let the area dry and investigate the leak. with the help of a water hose I discovered that the leak is coming from around the main weather seal on the rear hatch - the main one that is on the body, not the individual pieces on the hatch/liftgate itself. To my knowledge, the Toyota part # is 67881-60060. All of that is well and good and I have sourced a new seal if I need it. My question is this: does the new part need to be installed with any kind of sealant or adhesive? The current leak seems to be originating from water that runs underneath the weatherstripping at the top of the rear hatch, is diverted by the metal flange under said weatherstripping, and then pours down either side and trickles into the rear of the cruiser. I'm fine with replacing the rubber, but if I do I want to do it right. AND, if I should be using some kind of urethane or silicon, then maybe I should try that first before replacing any parts? Any advice/information would be helpful.

 

[Bmp1]

I've searched off and on for a couple days on this topic but I have yet to find anything that directly addresses my issue. There are multiple threads and videos about 80 series cruisers having leaks in one place or another but few of them are very complete. I found out last week, when I tried to give it a thorough interior cleaning that the carpet in the cargo area was wet. I removed the rubber mat and the factory carpet to let the area dry and investigate the leak. with the help of a water hose I discovered that the leak is coming from around the main weather seal on the rear hatch - the main one that is on the body, not the individual pieces on the hatch/liftgate itself. To my knowledge, the Toyota part # is 67881-60060. All of that is well and good and I have sourced a new seal if I need it. My question is this: does the new part need to be installed with any kind of sealant or adhesive? The current leak seems to be originating from water that runs underneath the weatherstripping at the top of the rear hatch, is diverted by the metal flange under said weatherstripping, and then pours down either side and trickles into the rear of the cruiser. I'm fine with replacing the rubber, but if I do I want to do it right. AND, if I should be using some kind of urethane or silicon, then maybe I should try that first before replacing any parts? Any advice/information would be helpful.

I think I may have the same issue. What did you end up doing?

 

[jatree]

I don't see anything in the FSM about what adhesive to use with weather stripping but I wonder if an adjustment of the door would help -

 

[shocktower]

It should have an adhesive on it, if not use a 3M adhesive, and if you are not sure of the application go to a body shop and ask how to do it or how much to do it

 

[LINUS]

Verify it’s the hatch gasket either by seeing a spot where the “dust ring” is broken - or if you cleaned the gasket, buy/use baby powder & sprinkle a bunch in the gap.

Then a real sparing spritz with the garden hose, or a spray bottle - just enough to cake in that powder to see a real nice white line after ~15mins of letting it dry (temp dependant - up here that may be ~3hrs).

You should see a break in the white line where the leak is.
Then you’ll know 100% if you need a new gasket or if yours just needs adjustment.

 

[Wrencher93]

Bmp1, I ended up removing that weather seal, cleaning the body surface, cleaning the seal with soap and water, and then reinstalling it. After doing that and fixing a leak from one of my rear windows - no more water inside. I'm hoping it will stay that way.

 

[jonheld]

The large weather seal that goes around the entire rear hatch opening is still available as a new OEM part. Mine had started leaking so I simply replaced it. The 22 year old seal was torn in 4 places that I couldn't easily see, and the new one went on without issue and doesn't require any adhesive. I spent some time cleaning the seating surfaces up and getting the 22 years of crap out of the area.

No more leaks, the hatch seals really well, and the interior is quieter. Well worth the cost of admission IMO.

 

[RFB]

The large weather seal that goes around the entire rear hatch opening is still available as a new OEM part. Mine had started leaking so I simply replaced it. The 22 year old seal was torn in 4 places that I couldn't easily see, and the new one went on without issue and doesn't require any adhesive. I spent some time cleaning the seating surfaces up and getting the 22 years of crap out of the area.

No more leaks, the hatch seals really well, and the interior is quieter. Well worth the cost of admission IMO.

So you were able to replace rear window seal on your own? or did you have glass shop do it. I have a leak as well.

 

[Wrencher93]

No, he's talking about the seal between the hatch/tailgate and the body itself. It's not the seal for the rear window, it's the seal around the entire rear cargo opening.

 

[Wrencher93]

The large weather seal that goes around the entire rear hatch opening is still available as a new OEM part. Mine had started leaking so I simply replaced it. The 22 year old seal was torn in 4 places that I couldn't easily see, and the new one went on without issue and doesn't require any adhesive. I spent some time cleaning the seating surfaces up and getting the 22 years of crap out of the area.

No more leaks, the hatch seals really well, and the interior is quieter. Well worth the cost of admission IMO.

I agree, worth the cost. I just need the money for other things at the moment haha. Removing and cleaning mine has seemed to do the trick for the time being but I'd like to replace it with a new part eventually.

 

[Wrencher93]

Verify it’s the hatch gasket either by seeing a spot where the “dust ring” is broken - or if you cleaned the gasket, buy/use baby powder & sprinkle a bunch in the gap.

Then a real sparing spritz with the garden hose, or a spray bottle - just enough to cake in that powder to see a real nice white line after ~15mins of letting it dry (temp dependant - up here that may be ~3hrs).

You should see a break in the white line where the leak is.
Then you’ll know 100% if you need a new gasket or if yours just needs adjustment.

This is a good idea. However, finding my leak took less time than I thought it would. I checked the inside of the 80 during a rain shower and could literally see water trickling down the plastic trim that covers the D pillars in the cargo area. It was pretty obvious that it was coming in around that seal because that is the only place high enough for the water to get on the trim (this was up near the bolts for the rear seat belt brackets). After removing, cleaning, and reinstalling the seal I have had no issues even in fairly heavy rain. I had removed the belt molding under both sliding windows and sealed the clip holes with silicone as well as removing the vent louvers and sealing around them. All of this together seams to have worked. There are threads about the windows and the louvers/vents. I didn't find much about the rear hatch seal which is why I created the thread.

 

[COYS]

The large weather seal that goes around the entire rear hatch opening is still available as a new OEM part. Mine had started leaking so I simply replaced it. The 22 year old seal was torn in 4 places that I couldn't easily see, and the new one went on without issue and doesn't require any adhesive. I spent some time cleaning the seating surfaces up and getting the 22 years of crap out of the area.

No more leaks, the hatch seals really well, and the interior is quieter. Well worth the cost of admission IMO.

Hey Jon, before I tear into mine, are there any gotchas or tips to get the old seal off and the new one on? Glad to know it requires no adhesive. Many thanks!

 

[jonheld]

Hey Jon, before I tear into mine, are there any gotchas or tips to get the old seal off and the new one on? Glad to know it requires no adhesive. Many thanks!

Nope. The old one just pulls off and the new one pushes on. No muss, no fuss.

 

[COYS]

Nope. The old one just pulls off and the new one pushes on. No muss, no fuss.

Only thing for my half banana skills is the pin that attaches to the door lever thing to the frame.

Found a little bit of rust I need attended to LIKE YESTERDAY.

 

[jonheld]

Only thing for my half banana skills is the pin that attaches to the door lever thing to the frame.

No idea what you're referring to. There were no pins involved.

 

[COYS]

No idea what you're referring to. There were no pins involved.

Clarifying my conflation: You can’t get the rubber seal on/off without removing the pin from the door latch.

I did all the rubbers at once, front and rear doors + hatch.

 

[jonheld]

Clarifying my conflation: You can’t get the rubber seal on/off without removing the pin from the door latch.

I did all the rubbers at once, front and rear doors + hatch.

I see. I thought we were discussing the rear hatch seal. Didn't realize you were referring to the door seals. Yes, those pins just knock right out. That said, the new door seals have a small strip of peel and stick adhesive that sits just above the window sill.

 

[COYS]

I see. I thought we were discussing the rear hatch seal. Didn't realize you were referring to the door seals. Yes, those pins just knock right out. That said, the new door seals have a small strip of peel and stick adhesive that sits just above the window sill.

We were and sorry for my conflation, but OP mentioned threads that talked about the windows which led me down this path and the other window thread makes no mention about this pin.

There are two adhesive tape sections on all four door seals.

I notice zero difference in noise even after doing all five openings. YMMV.