Leaky CV's still (1 Viewer)

[Landpimp]

Well my CV's(PS mostly) are still leaking/blowing grease, I had expected it to stop after the Slee diff drop but nope, the inner boot outboard side is still leaking. I see no way to tighten the clamps, idea's?

Also I have a clunk after installing the diff drop, I expect its the front diff moving around, only happens when I brakes fairly hard. Figure I'll re-torque the stuff saturday.

But a leaking boot makes me sad thought there were to be no or little issues with new t-bars especaily if I droped the diff down....

thoughts?

John

 

[DMX84]

John, are you sure it is leaking form the clamps? IMO the rubber dries out and when they get moved around they tend to crack. What type of clamp is on the CV boot?
Dean

 

[Landpimp]

positve its leaking at the end/clamp and is not torn, there is grease only on the alxe shaft below the clamp, boots are fine, not much in WA dries out Also only started after(like the next day) I lifted it.

clamp is funky, the FSM shows a SST needed to adjust it and I cant see anyway to just sqeuze it together, its like a hose clamp without a screw adjuster, just a band really.

John

John, are you sure it is leaking form the clamps? IMO the rubber dries out and when they get moved around they tend to crack. What type of clamp is on the CV boot?
Dean

 

[DMX84]

Ok, there are two types I know of. One looks like it has “teeth” and you need a tool to squeeze it tighter. I don’t like that one myself. It’s one of those quickie setups to make assembly easier. I like the other type that looks like a solid stainless steel band. Those unfortunately are not serviceable. They sell the tool (and bands) at Napa. You can get these real tight. The tool twists up the slack as tight as you want to go, (using your socket & ratchet) then you bend it back on itself cut off the slack, then bend the locking tabs over the bend. It’s a permanent fix.
Dean

 

[Landpimp]

sound like #2.

Ok, there are two types I know of. One looks like it has “teeth” and you need a tool to squeeze it tighter. I don’t like that one myself. It’s one of those quickie setups to make assembly easier. I like the other type that looks like a solid stainless steel band. Those unfortunately are not serviceable. They sell the tool (and bands) at Napa. You can get these real tight. The tool twists up the slack as tight as you want to go, (using your socket & ratchet) then you bend it back on itself cut off the slack, then bend the locking tabs over the bend. It’s a permanent fix.
Dean

 

[the shed guy]

No 2 is the go, sounds like someone may of stretched or pulled or knocked the boot while doing the lift.

 

[bjowett]

John, the grease Toyota uses for the 100 joints is really thin and runny when compared to the stuff one would use for the 80/60/40 axle. Thus, it will probably leak rather easily.... I'd say go grab a good hose clamp, 1.25' - 1.5" should do... then R&R the existing oe clamp with the hose clamp. If this stops your leak, then great... never used a hose clamp long term. You could probably buy the special clamps and tool to install them for less than it would cost to have a garage flat rate you and hours time installing one. Good luck.

 

[calamaridog]

Well my CV's(PS mostly) are still leaking/blowing grease, I had expected it to stop after the Slee diff drop but nope, the inner boot outboard side is still leaking. I see no way to tighten the clamps, idea's?

Also I have a clunk after installing the diff drop, I expect its the front diff moving around, only happens when I brakes fairly hard. Figure I'll re-torque the stuff saturday.

But a leaking boot makes me sad thought there were to be no or little issues with new t-bars especaily if I droped the diff down....

thoughts?

John

Your boots were leaking, you installed new tbars and a diff drop, they are still leaking.

In my experience, once they start leaking, it's a PIA to get them to stop. I'd try to clean the grease off the shaft and install new clamps, assuming the boots are still fine.

And I'm curious to hear about this "clunk" before I buy a diff drop...

 

[Landpimp]

no, my boots were not leaking when stock, I installed t-bars then they leaked out the ends, we never got near the boots or CV's when doing the bars. its just the angle of the dangle that is making them leak

seeing how I can't figure out how to tighten them, I have no clue how to get the old one off. Might just have Toyota do it when I have the 90K timing belt done.

Someone here said they tightend theirs.......

Your boots were leaking, you installed new tbars and a diff drop, they are still leaking.

In my experience, once they start leaking, it's a PIA to get them to stop. I'd try to clean the grease off the shaft and install new clamps, assuming the boots are still fine.

And I'm curious to hear about this "clunk" before I buy a diff drop...

 

[Brad Rumph]

I had a front end shop do it for me.My truck did the same thing when I installed the torsion bars.No leaks before but had leaks on all of them after the install. We just had the boots re-clamped or (re-band) and that seem to do the trick.Then I noticed on next oil change that one was still leaking So I called Slee and got the diff drop kit. It helped with the angle of the CVs and of couse I had to have the guys at the shop re-band a new clamp on the CV.(no charge) NO problems any more. I priced the dealorship first and they wanted $600 for the re-clamping and the front end shop did it for $250.


Not sure about the clunk noise you are hearing My truck is not doing that. Surely it is just needing a mild adjustment

 

[ShottsUZJ100]

Since it may make one or some of you feel better, let me share my experience with you:

My lift went on at 15K miles.

My CV leakage began instantly due to the angle.

They kept leaking until my dealer replaced the CV boots and lower ball joints (which included new lower controls arm) at 75K miles. They did this for free under my extended warranty. Everything was fine.....they just did it. They said they were slow. Woo hoo!

So in other words they had leaked for 60K but they were OK.

Today, at 90K, they still seep a little, but the CV's are still fine and they've spun 35's for the last 50K miles. In other words, unless your leak is bad, I'd not worry.

Hope this is good advice? Maybe I've been lucky? I have wheeled it hard and all is OK though?

 

[Jukelemon]

Slee:

Any words of advice here?

I would be curious if this is just a given consequence of the new T bars. If so, this needs to be addressed in our Faq list.

Juke

 

[Mark SR.]

CVs

Years ago I had driven from VB to San Diego & when there I noticed I had two split boots (1 inner, 1 outer on 4Runner w/ A.D.D.) I was told to get them fixed before the trip home. I did not - went another 5 years incl 9 or 10 trips to NC for on beach driving, and then they started clicking. Replaced both front axles for $75 per side. My point - CVs may be tougher than we think. My $.02.
-Mark

 

[KillerPea]

Just so you guys know...I am a tech at the Lexus dealership here in Dallas. Almost all of the 470 CV boots leak at the clamp. Most people don't notice it and I've never really seen a problem come from it.

 

[DMX84]

Its gonna collect dust! lol

 

[the shed guy]

We dont experience this in Aus at all, I must say, but knowing how rubber to steel seals grease when its clean, compared to once the lube gets under it, and keeps lubing it, so it keeps leaking, my way of fixing it would be to remove the clamp, clean the area wioth a fast drying solvent, and re assemble with correct clamp.

Then you should be able to lift it higher

 

[calamaridog]

Anyone know the price for the new boots? The Toyota kits are quite cheap for the tacos and runners, like $20-$25??? If you are going to the trouble of fixing them, then you might as well replace the boots. The will wear out eventually...

Maybe our parts guru can post the part #'s and prices, etc.

The 2004 tacos had better boots than previous models... I don't know if they are interchangeable between CV's on the tundras, runners, tacos, etc.

And I've seen some ghetto boot fixes, best trail fix is duct tape for tears!

 

[Landpimp]

thanks guys I do feel a little better

I found the clamps and tool yesterday, but they don't open like a normal hose clamp, so to get then on means disasembling stuff.

Old stock clamps look like they need to be cut off, I see no other way.

the bootyfab part of me says hack the clamp off with a Dremal and then put a bigass zip tie on instead of a clamp

think I recall the 100 CV boot kits is $200-ish

I think the clunk(and its very minor) is from the front diff rotating when braking hard, not sure if its at the crossmember or the diff mount. the new crossmeber did not fit as tight(2 bolts on each side) as the stock one, I had to suck it(crossmember) down with the impact, maybe I need to suck it down more. Hopefull will take a look at it today if its not pissing down rain/sleet.

thanks guys
John

 

[DMX84]

John, the clamp has a slip fitting on it. I believe you can pull it apart, and once opened up, then you should be able to get it around your boot (without taking it all apart). Slip it back together, & use the tool to tighten it up. Then you need to bend it as much as you can with the tool attached, (to keep the tension) then cut off the excess, leaving about ¾ of an inch. After you finish folding it back on itself (180 deg) you lock it with the ears that are on the side of the locking slip piece. If you are going to re-use your boot, I wouldn’t cut it off, you can try to undo your clamp in the reverse order.
But make sure you can undo you new clamp and refit it before you do this. I don’t want you cussing me later. LOL
Also John how about using a good sealant? I doesn’t sound like a major leak? You can try using some acetone to clean the boot/shaft. And use MotoSeal Permatex PN# 29132. This stuff works very well. The only thing, it doesn’t describe using it in this type of situation. I found this stuff when I called Permatex and talked to the engineers. If you want to try using a sealant first, I would call them and see what they recommend. But the MotoSeal worked where other sealants failed.
LMK
Dean

 

[calamaridog]

There is no way CV boot kits are $200... Not when the entire new CV, including boots, is $350...

And don't cut off the old clamp, just booty fab over or on top of it, can't hurt to try.