Leaky CV's still

[spressomon]

SWUtah....

Our 2000 LC is showing leaking inner CV joints at the boot clamps at 62K miles. No lift kit or suspension mods. No mudding or rock crawiling. We do some riding on sand in the summers, but pretty tame.

The leaks are at the clamps. The boots are intact.

If it just started and it indeed is leaking at the clamp and not a torn/cracked boot I would just reclamp...

 

[Bloodhound]

Grease loss from loose boot, question

Lifted mine a year ago no leak before or after. I’m wondering if a boot has leaked for sometime would it be smart to add new grease even if you’re removing, cleaning and rebanding. Thought?

 

[spressomon]

Lifted mine a year ago no leak before or after. I’m wondering if a boot has leaked for sometime would it be smart to add new grease even if you’re removing, cleaning and rebanding. Thought?

If you are going to utilize the factory Toyota boot kit then it comes with the CV joint grease. However it's at least a 5+hour job assuming you have all the tools you'll need: Ask me how I know

Again if you catch the leak in short order then IMO I would just reclamp (unless you've got 150Kish on the rig)...then buy the factory boot kit or complete new CV axle to have around if you need it down the road (along with steering knuckle puller, 54mm/2-1/8" socket, etc.). The CV joints on the 100 series are really tough: I have put 8-9K on mine since the boot started leaking with no ill effect (I just didn't really want to tear it all apart in the middle of winter!).

 

[ZJ2UZJ100]

How is the grease packed into a CV joint?

I haven't seen a freshly packed CV joint before the boot goes on.

Is the entire cavity inside the boot supposed to be filled with grease?

Or do you just pack the pivot points/joints like the a wheel bearing and slap the boot over that?

Can you tell by wiggling the boot whether there's enough still in there?

At 60K miles, we have some grease leaking out both front inner CV joints where the smaller diameter clamps crimp around the half shafts.

Getting a shimmy at all speeds and starting to think this is related.

 

[LEXUSBEN]

So lifting you LC is the main reason the CV's crack and start leaking? Anyone have any go bad that did not lift or tear them on the trail? Any Mall cruisers have a CV boot failure? Just trying to understand if this is a LC weak point or if it is caused by other means??

The majority of LX's that come in the shop with high mileage have leaking clamps. Don't usually worry about it until there is lots of grease being flung out. The lift just makes it worse. Mine were leaking a little bit before I lifted, after the lift they really started leaking. I rebooted mine but I had them out when I installed the ARB in front. Clean now.

ben

 

[calamaridog]

Getting a shimmy at all speeds and starting to think this is related.

My mechanic has diagnosed the minor vibration I have as the CV's.

He's pretty much ruled everthing else out at this point. He says this is fairly common on the higher mileage 100 series vehicles.

I'm planning on replacing both CV's soon and keeping the old ones for spares.

 

[DMX84]

My mechanic has diagnosed the minor vibration I have as the CV's.

He's pretty much ruled everthing else out at this point. He says this is fairly common on the higher mileage 100 series vehicles.

I'm planning on replacing both CV's soon and keeping the old ones for spares.

Keep us posted if this fixes your problem or not.

 

[SWUtah]

My mechanic has diagnosed the minor vibration I have as the CV's.

He's pretty much ruled everthing else out at this point. He says this is fairly common on the higher mileage 100 series vehicles.

I'm planning on replacing both CV's soon and keeping the old ones for spares.

Dog, what was your mileage when you started getting the CV vib's???

 

[ZJ2UZJ100]

Sorry to ask again, but did not get an answer last time....


How does one pack a CV joint and boot?

Do you put fill the entire boot cavity with grease and then clamp it? How full is full?

 

[Landpimp]

hey......I am here to entertain

Z and S look sorta alike

inexpenize?? LOL! Best one yet

 

[100 TD]

Sorry to ask again, but did not get an answer last time....


How does one pack a CV joint and boot?

Do you put fill the entire boot cavity with grease and then clamp it? How full is full?

Inner Joint 293 - 303 g
Outer Joint 368 - 378 g
from 2003 service manual

 

[i4c4lo]

ZJ2UZJ100

Sorry to ask again, but did not get an answer last time....

How does one pack a CV joint and boot?

Do you put fill the entire boot cavity with grease and then clamp it? How full is full?

~ ~ ~

The kit from Toyota around $40 per side has 2 tubes of grease with it. You use a tube of grease per boot - one inner CV (where the ring & pinion is) & one outer (where the hub is).

To pack - you pretty much remove brakes, upper & lower ball joints, part of steering, wheels & tires, hub, bearings, knuckle ...

A great learning experience and you can save $361.50 per side to replace the CV boots and another $151.50 per side to repack your bearings according to Toyota of Palo Alto

 

[spressomon]

ZJ2UZJ100

Sorry to ask again, but did not get an answer last time....

How does one pack a CV joint and boot?

Do you put fill the entire boot cavity with grease and then clamp it? How full is full?

~ ~ ~

The kit from Toyota around $40 per side has 2 tubes of grease with it. You use a tube of grease per boot - one inner CV (where the ring & pinion is) & one outer (where the hub is).

To pack - you pretty much remove brakes, upper & lower ball joints, part of steering, wheels & tires, hub, bearings, knuckle ...

A great learning experience and you can save $361.50 per side to replace the CV boots and another $151.50 per side to repack your bearings according to Toyota of Palo Alto

Don't forget to either drain the front diff fluid or jack the side you are working on higher than the level of the diff fluid...no leaky either way.

 

[hoser]

Like others, after doing the lift and drop bracket, I had the inner CV boots leaking from the clamp. I carefully ground off the old clamp (at the buckle) and installed a new clamp using a $12 clamp tightening tool. It seems to have stopped the leaks. Hopefully, I didn't lose too much grease.

Replying to my own post from over a year ago... the replacement clamps are holding fine--still no leaks.

 

[DMX84]

ZJ2UZJ100

Sorry to ask again, but did not get an answer last time....

How does one pack a CV joint and boot?

Do you put fill the entire boot cavity with grease and then clamp it? How full is full?

~ ~ ~

The kit from Toyota around $40 per side has 2 tubes of grease with it. You use a tube of grease per boot - one inner CV (where the ring & pinion is) & one outer (where the hub is).

To pack - you pretty much remove brakes, upper & lower ball joints, part of steering, wheels & tires, hub, bearings, knuckle ...

A great learning experience and you can save $361.50 per side to replace the CV boots and another $151.50 per side to repack your bearings according to Toyota of Palo Alto

Depends on what you want to do. If you are wanting to inspect & replace the grease, then you will need to remove the shaft. Just to replace “missing grease” get a needle adaptor from a auto parts store and remove the leaking band and slip it under. I over filled mine and it oozed out until it equalized and now it’s good.
DMX

 

[ZJ2UZJ100]

That's what I wanted to know!

I just want to refill and reclamp.

So fill the boot with grease till it's oozing out.

 

[DMX84]

I wouldn’t recommend it if you have any containments like water. Mine started leaking after the dif drop install and had no water.
I had actually overfilled mine. I would try to gage the amount of grease next time to no more than a 1/4 tube of grease it doesn’t need to be packed in IMO.
DMX

 

[spressomon]

Replying to my own post from over a year ago... the replacement clamps are holding fine--still no leaks.

To revive an old thread:

hoser: Are your CV boots still NOT leaking? After a little over 1-year on the brand new factory Toyota OEM complete CV shaft assemblies the inner boot (small diameter/CV shaft end) is puking grease (both sides!). So much for OEM Toyota CV assemblies . It seems the OEM band clamps are just not tight enough...I'll probably just re-clamp them and hope it takes care of the issues.


Also...when I turn left and the rig leans into the PS side I am getting a worn bearing sound plus the same sound that a brake pad wear indicator gives off (only makes this scraping noise when turning left...NOT when braking; checked for a bent dust shield but it was straight and no signs of rubbing).

So, thinking it might be the needle bearing in the steering knuckle making both noises I tore it all apart today. All bearings still have clean uncontaminated grease and plenty of it. Saw nothing to indicate any wear etc. Plenty of brake pad material and the wear indicator isn't even close to the rotor. So now I'm thinking it probably mad has to be in the diff. Maybe a carrier or outer diff housing bearing?

A side note: I replaced the lower ball joint rubber boot today apart of the tear down (thanks Rusty_tlc for your help on that!). The ball joint sure looks like it should be replaceable: It is retained to the lower control arm with a large HD circlip and has a dimple to make us think a puller could be used to pull the ball joint out of the lower control arm...but that would be too easy and affordable :-o . The ball joint cavity had no grease remaining; upon Rusty-tlc's recommendation I cleaned the ball joint out with brake cleaner until I was sure all the consolidated grease was evac'd. Then squirted grease up into the ball joint itself. Once I had the ball joint boot back on the ball joint actually felt solid...time will tell. If the damn ball joint was replaceable I'd like to just renew for peace of mind.

It just never ends...

 

[rusty_tlc]

To revive an old thread:

hoser: Are your CV boots still NOT leaking? After a little over 1-year on the brand new factory Toyota OEM complete CV shaft assemblies the inner boot (small diameter/CV shaft end) is puking grease (both sides!). So much for OEM Toyota CV assemblies . It seems the OEM band clamps are just not tight enough...I'll probably just re-clamp them and hope it takes care of the issues.


Also...when I turn left and the rig leans into the PS side I am getting a worn bearing sound plus the same sound that a brake pad wear indicator gives off (only makes this scraping noise when turning left...NOT when braking; checked for a bent dust shield but it was straight and no signs of rubbing).

So, thinking it might be the needle bearing in the steering knuckle making both noises I tore it all apart today. All bearings still have clean uncontaminated grease and plenty of it. Saw nothing to indicate any wear etc. Plenty of brake pad material and the wear indicator isn't even close to the rotor. So now I'm thinking it probably mad has to be in the diff. Maybe a carrier or outer diff housing bearing?

A side note: I replaced the lower ball joint rubber boot today apart of the tear down (thanks Rusty_tlc for your help on that!). The ball joint sure looks like it should be replaceable: It is retained to the lower control arm with a large HD circlip and has a dimple to make us think a puller could be used to pull the ball joint out of the lower control arm...but that would be too easy and affordable :-o . The ball joint cavity had no grease remaining; upon Rusty-tlc's recommendation I cleaned the ball joint out with brake cleaner until I was sure all the consolidated grease was evac'd. Then squirted grease up into the ball joint itself. Once I had the ball joint boot back on the ball joint actually felt solid...time will tell. If the damn ball joint was replaceable I'd like to just renew for peace of mind.

It just never ends...

We spent more time on mine than on yours. I owe you.

With no point of reference on what a good or bad ball joint acts like it's hard to tell if yours was bad or not. When it was seated in the socket the ball rode smoothly in all axis. The fact that it was basically dry is kind of worrisome.

BTW the Toyos look awesome, a bit loud at low speed but okay otherwise. We'll give them a test tomorrow on Smoke Creek Desert.

 

[locrwln1]

To revive an old thread:



Also...when I turn left and the rig leans into the PS side I am getting a worn bearing sound plus the same sound that a brake pad wear indicator gives off (only makes this scraping noise when turning left...NOT when braking; checked for a bent dust shield but it was straight and no signs of rubbing).

A side note: I replaced the lower ball joint rubber boot today apart of the tear down (thanks Rusty_tlc for your help on that!). The ball joint sure looks like it should be replaceable: It is retained to the lower control arm with a large HD circlip and has a dimple to make us think a puller could be used to pull the ball joint out of the lower control arm...but that would be too easy and affordable :-o . The ball joint cavity had no grease remaining; upon Rusty-tlc's recommendation I cleaned the ball joint out with brake cleaner until I was sure all the consolidated grease was evac'd. Then squirted grease up into the ball joint itself. Once I had the ball joint boot back on the ball joint actually felt solid...time will tell. If the damn ball joint was replaceable I'd like to just renew for peace of mind.

It just never ends...

Not sure if the 100's suffer from the same problem or not, but is there a little plastic cover on the turn stop? I know the older 86-95 trucks would wear that piece out and it would screech like that. If so, just a little grease on the bolt where it strikes the a-arm quietens it right down. Just a thought. Sounds like you had a day like mine.

And no the cruiser stuff never stops.

BTW the Toyos look awesome, a bit loud at low speed but okay otherwise. We'll give them a test tomorrow on Smoke Creek Desert.

New tires? Where da pics? Which ones did you get? What size? Do tell.

Jack