leaking valley plate and beyond or ?

[mfeferman]

Question for the mechanics (DIY or prof) here. I think I know the answer but might need a little 'push'. I'm headed to COTR later this month in my 2015 LX. It's mechanically sound, except the leaking valley plate (lvp). I find myself having some time and was going to tackle this by just resealing the plate, replacing the pcv valve, probably replacing both heater T's. The thing is, the truck still has the original radiator, currently without issue, but I know it's a matter of time. I'm at 118k miles. If I'm going to tackle the radiator along with the lvp, should I be looking at replacing everything that goes along with that stuff, like the following:

• thermostat (water inlet sub-assembly)
• water pump
• belt tensioner
• idler pulley
• fan clutch
• fan bearing bracket
• belt
• hoses
• etc

note, the belt tentioner (and I have to imagine belt - although I don't see this in the notes) were replaced at 60k according to the lexus owner site.

Was trying to go cheap on the lvp, but if I have to do the radiator, a sh-t ton of stuff comes into play...

Or do I skip the radiator and keep my fingers crossed for a long july-august in CO?

 

[TLC2013]

Are there any signs of the radiator crack forming ? If not I'd leave it alone and just knock out the coolant valley leak repair. The rest can wait.
No need to shoot the parts cannon at the front end accessories until the radiator starts to go or the water pump begins leaking.

 

[mfeferman]

Are there any signs of the radiator crack forming ? If not I'd leave it alone and just knock out the coolant valley leak repair. The rest can wait.
No need to shoot the parts cannon at the front end accessories until the radiator starts to go or the water pump begins leaking.

https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipMngFSV5HigXZ5J0uJve36L3bzSncUaw0kzdvfw
That may be the beginning of a crack, but I'm not sure. If anything, I could order one and have it 'ready', except when I'm in CO. I wasn't planning to bring a spare with me. :/

In terms of approach, I pretty much decided what you stated... I was going to try and knock the valley plate out this week/weekend and pcv valve and heater T's.

For the future, it looks like I can order this radiator (16400-50384) from a toyota dealer and it's the latest one for the land cruiser of my year (looks to have replaced the 16400-50382).

​

 

[TLC2013]

Thats the dreaded crack. I have seen worse that lasted years before replacing. Mine had spread a good two inches more before i swapped it out and did the front end refresh of the cooling system/accessories.

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[Willie G]

I replaced my radiator at the 106k mark and did the items you have listed at the same time.

I personally would not attempt any of those with the radiator still in the car - I needed all the room I could get.

FWIW - while nothing seemed noisy prior, it was noticeably quieter afterward.

 

[nwfl4runner]

Do the radiator - you’re draining coolant to do the valley plate and yanking the top hose anyway. I’d leave the rest (idler, etc) unless you’ve got parts on hand, as you could check water pump, etc.

 

[WreckDiver1321]

When I did the valley, I ended up unveiling a horrible squealing in the belt on the front, so I tossed a belt, tensioner, and idler in there and it fixed the problem. I must have dropped coolant somewhere that compromised something, or at least brought it to the surface.

Not my favorite job I've ever had to do, but far from the worst. Just take your time and go slow.

Be careful about that pipe that takes coolant from the water pump and sends it through the valley. The o-ring can get all kinds of pinched and causes a MAJOR leak if you do, and it's really hard to see unless you basically bury your head in there. If you do it wrong it has to come all the way back apart and be fixed. Ask me how I know.

Radiator is dead easy too, there's a great YouTube video out there that walks through that procedure.

If you've had any symptoms of the secondary air injection system woes, I'd look at at the bypass kit from Hewitt Tech and do it right now like I did. No better time to get to all that stuff than when you're in there and have it all torn apart anyway. I was throwing codes for it and happened to develop the leak at the same time, so I just did it all at once. Made everything much easier to access.

 

[mfeferman]

Being as cost conscious as I am at this exact moment, I ordered parts from a combination of Rock Auto and the stealership. The July 4th sale at one of the local Houston Toyota shops was too good to pass up. I picked up a new radiator out the door for $310 and then another $390 from Rock Auto. I would have purchased the same parts from the dealer, but even on the fourth it was like $300 more :|. Now I just have to figure out how to get all of this done before COTR in the 2000 degree heat of Houston.