leak - how bad is this? (1 Viewer)

[enochRoot]

just purchased a 1990 62. PO said it didn't have any major leaks. i knew it had a "slight" main seal leak (which actually looks like it could be the oil pan gasket instead), but was told by the PO that he never needed to add oil between changes.

anyhow, here is about 20 hours of leaking, and it sure looks like this would add up to some serious loss over 3 months! i've only had it for a couple days, so there is still no noticeable loss in oil when measuring. i just wanted to get some feedback on what this looks like it could amount to after several months and hence whether i should try and chase down the leak and have the seals replaced...or let it ride.

penny for scale.

 

[Mace]

it is always a good thing to stop leaks when possible.

 

[enochRoot]

well, i guess my question then is "is it possible". i've read here and there about people replacing gaskets, main seals, etc and still having a leak w/ cruisers. this is my second fj62, but it's been 5 years or so since i've owned one. i do have the money to get this taken care of, but i don't want to spend all the dough and still have a leak when i'm finished (or a worse one for that matter).

i should add that the ride home from picking up the truck (500 miles) was fine. got 15mpg average for the whole trip including many mountains, 70-75mph (80 at times) speeds, and using the AC. it seems to run/drive well otherwise.

 

[dgangle]

Anything is possible with enough time, talent, tools and/or money.

Minor leaks are those referred to by a seller. Major leaks are those defined by a buyer. Buyer beware!

Makes you wonder what he defined as regular oil changes. By the size of that puddle, it looks like it changed it's own oil.

 

[enochRoot]

hehehe...i like your definition of major vs. minor leaks! seems to fit the situation.

and i was quite surprised by the size, and figured the same thing.

s***.

 

[cruiser88]

Just drive it for a while and see how bad it really is. Did it sit any before you bought it?

I have the leak also but it is hit or miss and it seems like the longer it sits the worse it gets. The more i drive it the less it leaks or if it leaks at all. These old rigs are really hard to seal up.

 

[rondog]

Leak fix

If it seem to be in the RMS area then you may as well do the pan gasket along with the trans. seals.I recently did a clutch job for a guy and he wanted the RMS done as well(smart) but the leak ended up being the main shaft seal in the gear box(the front shaft), we then replaced the output seals on the transfer case.ALL leaks gone now for about 4 mo. In all, just on the seals/gaskets about $80 give or take, The labor on the other hand is what will cost ya! Good luck.

just purchased a 1990 62. PO said it didn't have any major leaks. i knew it had a "slight" main seal leak (which actually looks like it could be the oil pan gasket instead), but was told by the PO that he never needed to add oil between changes.

anyhow, here is about 20 hours of leaking, and it sure looks like this would add up to some serious loss over 3 months! i've only had it for a couple days, so there is still no noticeable loss in oil when measuring. i just wanted to get some feedback on what this looks like it could amount to after several months and hence whether i should try and chase down the leak and have the seals replaced...or let it ride.

penny for scale.

 

[enochRoot]

i'm not really sure if it sat at all. it was a daily driver, but it could have potentially sat for a few weeks or months (not sure) as he already had a new car when i bought this. i have driven it every day since it's been here. not a lot, but at least somewhere.

rather disheartening based on how it was described. especially since i relied on photos and his description since it was 500 miles away.

Just drive it for a while and see how bad it really is. Did it sit any before you bought it?

I have the leak also but it is hit or miss and it seems like the longer it sits the worse it gets. The more i drive it the less it leaks or if it leaks at all. These old rigs are really hard to seal up.

 

[enochRoot]

yeah, if only i had a shop (oh yeah, and know-how). i will have to take this to someone to have the work done. i have no problem getting dirty, and putting the work in myself, but my knowledge is limited and i don't have a garage/lifts/adequate tools/etc.

would the labor cost so much that a rebuild would be worth it at that point since everything needs to be taken apart anyhow?

If it seem to be in the RMS area then you may as well do the pan gasket along with the trans. seals.I recently did a clutch job for a guy and he wanted the RMS done as well(smart) but the leak ended up being the main shaft seal in the gear box(the front shaft), we then replaced the output seals on the transfer case.ALL leaks gone now for about 4 mo. In all, just on the seals/gaskets about $80 give or take, The labor on the other hand is what will cost ya! Good luck.

 

[enochRoot]

btw...thanks to everyone for the replies...i appreciate it!

 

[mrlocksmith]

Take it from "Leaky", I have battling oil leaks for a while and I am still not done yet. If it was just a RMS I think it would leak more after driving it for a while rather then sitting. If it is leaking while sitting I would say that it is the oil pan gasket. Can you see oil being flung off the flywheel and building up w/ dirt in the timing window in the bell housing? If so I would vote for a RMS

My two cents..


Mark

 

[billmc]

When I got my 62, it leaked every type of fluid. Now it leaks none, so you can get there. First thing to check is if the leak is coming from the back end of the valve cover gasket. It runs down the back of the engine and looks just like an oil pan or rear main seal leak. Very cheap and easy to fix.

Bill

 

[Heartworm]

Get a set of metric sockets, an extension, and a rachet and gently (repeat), gently tighten all the bolts of the oil pan and side cover before going further. Then, drive it and see if it helped. There are lots of posts on oil seal replacement. Do a cost analysis on the situation...cost of paying someone to replace oil pan gasket vs cost of gasket, plus new floor jack and some jack stands. A sheet of cardboard makes a great redneck "creeper" if you are tight on money.

 

[RockDoc]

Get a set of metric sockets, an extension, and a rachet and gently (repeat), gently tighten all the bolts of the oil pan and side cover before going further. Then, drive it and see if it helped. There are lots of posts on oil seal replacement. Do a cost analysis on the situation...cost of paying someone to replace oil pan gasket vs cost of gasket, plus new floor jack and some jack stands. A sheet of cardboard makes a great redneck "creeper" if you are tight on money.

x2 on this. I replaced my oil pan gasket back around Christmas, and just got back to retorquing the bolts a couple weeks ago. Many were barely finger tight! If it seems like it is the seals, you could try throwing a litre or two of Redline or Motul oil in. The ester-based oils are supposed to be good for plumping up seals.

 

[enochRoot]

ok, now it seems like i'm getting a plan of attack. first things first i should try and torque down the bolts a bit. this will cost me nothing but time (and maybe some skin off my knuckles). from there, it does make sense to price out the jack stands and such, and try to replace the gaskets i could handle. if that doesn't work...it might be time to talk w/ a local shop.

i think this would be a bit easier to stomach if i had paid $2000 for the cruiser and assumed it needed all this. i thought i was getting something that was pretty much mechanically sound, and i could just do preventative maintenance.

i should post some photos of it, as it's really a nice one overall. i know that if i get these issues squared away...i'll have a great truck for the rest of my life. with the miles i put on it (very low)...it could last me close to that long!

 

[gaylon]

Leaking some still qualifies as mechanically sound for an 18 year old. All joking aside, wipe up underneath really well with some rags and see if you can figure out where it is coming from. If you see the fluid leaking but are not sure of where it is coming from, take some pictures and post them.

btw - where are you? cruiserheads are almost always willing to come over and tell you how f'ed up your ride is.

 

[enochRoot]

ok, i've poked around under there some more today. wiped off the surfaces to try and see what was going on, and came to the conclusion that it's not the rear main seal for sure. that is also leaking, but just a very tiny bit. maybe a drop or so a day.

i'll try and get a photo of where the drip is coming from, although i'm no closer to knowing where the leak is coming from. it drips from the piece of metal under the oil pan, but doesn't seem to be coming from the plug, or further up (although there seems to be gunk up higher by the valve cover gasket too). it seems to be originating right where it's dripping from.

a picture's worth a thousand words. i'll post one as soon as i can.

and gaylon...i'm in columbus, oh.

 

[billmc]

rust sometimes forms around the weld on the oil pan skid plate and can lead to leaks

 

[enochRoot]

hmm. it does seem like it's coming from the junction of the skid plate and bottom of the oil pan (i hesitated to call that the skid plate at first for fear that i'd have it wrong). but according to the PO...it never leaked from there. just the rear main seal (which, again is just a minor leak).

if that is the case though, do i just buy a new oil pan? how much will that set me back?

i'll go take a photo now.

 

[Heartworm]

I have read on this board where some people have bought new oil pans when that was the problem. However, if you can find the source, I do not see why a good welder could not scab on a plate to cover the problem from the inside???