Hmm, I suppose I may have to drive back down this weekend..
LCs sliders group buy
- Thread starter medtro
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On my way down, I sent you a PM Chibo...
MaddBaggins
Remember the KnightRider!
out of curiosity, who's painting vs. powdercoating? the paint that came on mine flaked off of it's own accord after a month and a half and rust is starting to form. I have a preliminary estimate of $125 to blast and powdercoat the sliders. What kind of metal prep would be needed to paint (besides removing old paint and rust)?
Just paint them with the POR-15 stuff, Brandon, then they'll never rust.
Then you'd just need to scuff them up a bit and brush it on. It comes in different colors so you can either go black or just about color match your truck.
I think I'm just going to use the rest of the black POR-15 I have left over from my trailer project.
Then you'd just need to scuff them up a bit and brush it on. It comes in different colors so you can either go black or just about color match your truck.
I think I'm just going to use the rest of the black POR-15 I have left over from my trailer project.
Cody, go ahead and pick mine up. I'll split gas with you. 
That is if you haven't already picked yours up and are home, which I suspect is the case. 
Thanks!
That is if you haven't already picked yours up and are home, which I suspect is the case. Thanks!
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Cody, go ahead and pick mine up. I'll split gas with you.
Thanks!
Your's are riding to Prescott in Cody's rig.
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As with any paint job prep is the key. New metal comes with a waxy/oil coating that has to be removed or the paint will never stick. I usually scrub it off with soap, scotch-brite pads and water. There is usually mill scale and/or some rust this can be sanded off, but that's way too much work for me! I prefer to etch the metal using a product containing phosphoric acid, like Jasco metal etch, SEM rust-mort, etc. Their weak acid products, so don't get it in your eyes, etc and will etch concrete.
It's simple to use, apply with a disposable brush or pump sprayer, allow it to work a few minutes, wash off with water, dry the part and paint. Phosphoric acid slightly pits the surface giving the paint a good tooth to grip and converts the mill scale and rust to iron phosphate (black oxide like on impact sockets). Kills the rust, so it can be painted over without fear of it ever coming back.
The best part is it's cheap and most hardware stores carry it.
Homax Products - Surface Prep - Metal Etch
Jasco Prep and Primer is pretty much the same stuff.
Homax Products - Surface Prep - Prep & Primer
MaddBaggins
Remember the KnightRider!
Carb cleaner and a rag.
Cantinero
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Are these all being drop shipped to Kevin's place, or are they being delivered to us individually?
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If your going that route, your better off with brake clean, some carb cleaners leave an oil residue. Lacquer thinner, acetone, denatured alcohol, all work, but none etch the surface, the acid wash is just as easy, chems are less expensive and the paint sticks better.
MaddBaggins
Remember the KnightRider!
If your going that route, your better off with brake clean, some carb cleaners leave an oil residue. Lacquer thinner, acetone, denatured alcohol, all work, but none etch the surface, the acid wash is just as easy, chems are less expensive and the paint sticks better.
I think that being concerned about whether or not paint sticks to your ROCK SLIDERS is kind of a silly thing to be concerned with.
UNLESS, your a poser...I've already proven that even P-coat is worthless if you use your junk.
Hammer, hammer, hammer....pry pry pry....
Mission status - 25% completed.
Mission status - 25% completed.
- Thread starter
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Kevin's place.
I'm too impatient, I'm driving down to Cody's tonight... 180mi round trip - it'll be a tired day at work tomorrow.
Okeedokee, now Chibo has his sliders. 
Thank you very much for picking them up, Cody.
I forgot to tell you nice FB.
I forgot to tell you nice FB.
Mission status 45% complete.
There are 3 mounting points on the PS slider.
One is a couple of plates that wrap around the frame below the rear PS door. In the middle is a fixed plate with 2 holes that screw into the frame. The front mount is a longer control arm bolt to a fixed plate.
The front mount is obviously immobile, and the rear mount just wraps around the frame. The center mount with the 2 bolts doesn't line up by about 3/4" - so I can't get those in.
When I remove them for paint I'm going to have to redrill those holes so I can bolt up the center mount.
There are 3 mounting points on the PS slider.
One is a couple of plates that wrap around the frame below the rear PS door. In the middle is a fixed plate with 2 holes that screw into the frame. The front mount is a longer control arm bolt to a fixed plate.
The front mount is obviously immobile, and the rear mount just wraps around the frame. The center mount with the 2 bolts doesn't line up by about 3/4" - so I can't get those in.
When I remove them for paint I'm going to have to redrill those holes so I can bolt up the center mount.
Mission status 45% complete.
There are 3 mounting points on the PS slider.
One is a couple of plates that wrap around the frame below the rear PS door. In the middle is a fixed plate with 2 holes that screw into the frame. The front mount is a longer control arm bolt to a fixed plate.
The front mount is obviously immobile, and the rear mount just wraps around the frame. The center mount with the 2 bolts doesn't line up by about 3/4" - so I can't get those in.
When I remove them for paint I'm going to have to redrill those holes so I can bolt up the center mount.
cody,
can you tell ne how far off and which way they are off so i can fix this.
thanks
jim
