LCA Frame Bushing Removal Help (1 Viewer)

[NWForester]

Going outside to test fit everything now...

Eff. It definitely needs two washers per side. The front and rear outside edges on both the driver's and passenger side LCAs are tight with some daylight visible between the two inside edges. One more washer per side should do it.

Now to figure out how to get these things back out without damaging them. Got to get some more pipe.

Oh the things we do for love...

Spressomon, that's exactly the way my FSM presents it which is why I was asking here how you all have done it. Below is a link to the parts diagrams I have been using:

http://www.toyotapartsoverstock.com...odel=15437&modelYear=2000&ukey_category=21651

It shows two per side, but still no rubber front piece.

 

[spressomon]

Apparently Toyota plays Russian Roulette with various parts catalogs

eeny meeny miny...oh fawk it

 

[NWForester]

Well, for what it's worth, here is the follow up.

I pulled the new bushings back out of the frame (I wish they were always that easy) using a 1/2" bolt, a 2" pipe plug, and a 2-1/2" coupling.

I put two washers in between each bushing and the frame just as shown in the parts diagram I posted above.

Everything is perfect. The LCA went on easily and there is equal clearance between all four bushing edges and the steel arms on both sides.

 

[super90]

"I pulled the new bushings back out of the frame (I wish they were always that easy) using a 1/2" bolt, a 2" pipe plug, and a 2-1/2" coupling."

Can you post a picture of this set up? Thanks !!!

 

[NWForester]

I'll try a picture in the morning, but understand that at the point where that setup worked, I had already removed the old bushings, repaired the holes, and greased the new bushings when they were installed.

I ruined several 1/2" bolts trying to make it work on the OEM stuff before succumbing to the hot knife/hacksaw affair.




...via IH8MUD app

 

[super90]

I get it. Also would be interested in your driving impressions after all your hard work !

 

[NWForester]

Here is what I used:

The 2" black iron fittings ID fit great around the bushing well on the frame. I used a coupler and added a close nipple to gain a little length. The bushing needs to have the metal lip bent inward for this to work.

The 1-1/2" plug (I mistakingly called it a 2" plug previously) needed to have some of the taper ground down to fit through the well. There is a 1/2" hole drilled through.

I originally used a 2" cap on the other end of the nipple/coupler with a 1/2" hole as well to run the bolt through, but I ruined two of them in the process of destroying three bolts and finally wound up with the steel square you see. The steel had no issue, and I actually just put it on top of the deformed cap, in between the cap and the nut, so that the cap locate the bolt.

When I installed the new bushings with one washer and test fit everything, I needed to pull them back out to install a second washer. The 2" ID is not large enough to accommodate a bushing that has not had the metal lip bent in, so a 2-1/2" fitting was used (in this case it was a 2-1/2" to 2" reducer). This size does not fit on the frame well and hangs off in places, but as the bushings were new and I applied grease before installation, there wasn't much force necessary to pull them.

...via IH8MUD app

 

[2000UZJ]

I tried for hours trying to press the frame bushing out. After a few busted knuckles and some trench warfare language I gave up. I have two NIB OEM bushings that I need to sell. Two for the price of one...PM me if you want them.

 

[NWForester]

Don't give up that easily.

If I had to do it again, I would again use a torch to heat a knife blade and work that around the bushing to cut the center part out, then cut the thing in half. It actually didn't take all that long once I figured that out, the long part was every frustrated failed attempt and trip to the hardware store up to that point.


...via IH8MUD app

 

[2000UZJ]

I replaced them a few months ago (LCA), I don't plan on doing them again for quite some time. I am using the bushings as paper weights, so I would rather have them go to a good home and be used for their intended purpose

 

[NWForester]

I am using the bushings as paper weights

Did you Plasti Dip them?

 

[NWForester]

The truck is back on the road, and it feels great. The entire front end is fresh to include shocks, so I really can't identify any single part as the "difference maker".

I held the front suspension at 21-1/4" wheel center to fender for the tightening and final torquing of the UCA and LCA bolts. Right now the front is dialed in at 21" wheel center to fender and the rear is 21-1/2" wheel center to fender. Droop is 24-1/4". The truck tracks true and no hint of torque steer.


...via IH8MUD app

 

[98100Crusher]

Update for the below: That is probably a seam as geometry is wrong for a saw cut and that's not where I cut through the shell. I am moving on to replacing the arm because the new bushing can be pressed out pretty easily by hand which seems way too loose. My guess is I screwed up by not cutting through the old bushing shell all the way and then applying too much pressure via the press on the old bushing with the outside flange folded over. So lesson is always cut clean through the shell before pressing. btw: Use a spray bottle of simple green for the drill and a coping saw makes it easy to remove the rubber without a lot of burning rubber and fuss.

Does the interior of the control arm for the No.1 bushing have a seam?

I pulled my No.1 out with a combination of a HF press and cutting all the way through the shell with a hack saw. You really have to cut the shell completely to get it to move and then its simple.

When I was cleaning up the interior I noticed the seam in the attached photo. That I could get all the way through with a hack saw without opening up the ends doesn't add up but I figured I'd ask for comment before proceeding forward with this control arm.

 

[excessive]

I know this is an old thread, but I just wanted to thank those that mentioned the drill through rubber part/ pound out center / sawzall method of removing the frame Lower control Arm bushing. I tried for hours to press them out with absolutely no luck. Got them both out in 30 minutes after reading this thread. thank you !

 

[Malleus]

I believe the credit goes to @Kernal who suggested this method for the front center differential bushing. Genius tip, that.

I have a length of 5/8-8 Acme threaded rod and two nuts I use for all the suspension bushings. McMaster Carr (which I rarely use, but which came to play this time) had them for pennies. Get yours before the Donald gets rid of them (the pennies, that is).

 

[Kernal]

Not me (I forget who had that idea first).