LC200 engine problem

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molanginaeda

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MA
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www.landcruisertravels.com
I post it at ih8mud Facebook page. I’m currently having issue with my 2013 LC200 engine. The problem started yesterday when the rig suddenly stall while driving. I managed to restart the engine and drive back home. Since no engine check trigger, I never think to follow up until later night time. Try to head out and try to start the engine. The engine start for 1-2 sec and stall.
I used my bluedriver OBD2 scanner to pull code.
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So far, I have done the following troubleshooting and tune up. I have change the air filter, PCV valve and clean the MAP and throttle body. I also add a few gallons of fuel to the tank and a bottle of heet To eliminate bad gas. I currently know it’s not electrical problem because I got good spark during cranking. I narrowed down to fuel deliver problem.

The problem is getting worst now as I can only crank, but no start.

I did search here but I can’t find a similar forum post matching my problem. Anyone got any insight? If I need to bypass the fuel pump control module, anyone got a good idea? I want to nail the problem down to either Fuel Pump ECU or fuel pump itself.

Thanks.
 
I know not much help, but I would try unplug battery, wait 10 minutes and restart. Maybe computer reset is needed.
 
I know not much help, but I would try unplug battery, wait 10 minutes and restart. Maybe computer reset is needed.
I have done the simple diagnostic. Reset the ecu by unplug battery is one of the step. I did unplug the battery this morning for more than 1 hrs while charging up the battery.
 
Thanks to info from @CharlieS thread, I’m able to narrow down my problem to fuel delivery. I need to continue to troubleshoot on wiring, fuel pump controller ECU and fuel pump. Eliminate each area to pin point the exact problem.
I’m able to isolate air and ignition problem. Fuses and relay check out. Fob and fuel is good.
Not sure why the sudden problem but the end is near. No dealership visit is the bests.
 
Thanks to info from @CharlieS thread, I’m able to narrow down my problem to fuel delivery. I need to continue to troubleshoot on wiring, fuel pump controller ECU and fuel pump. Eliminate each area to pin point the exact problem.
I’m able to isolate air and ignition problem. Fuses and relay check out. Fob and fuel is good.
Not sure why the sudden problem but the end is near. No dealership visit is the bests.
Fuel filter?
 
I don't think there is any way to bypass the fuel pump ECU to drive around, but I was able to connect a power source direct to the fuel pump pins when I was troubleshooting my issue. I used a variable voltage supply (that also allowed me to control the amperage), and was able to drive the fuel pump that way. By confirming that it worked this way, I could eliminate the pump assembly as a problem. My fuel pump was fine.
 
I don't think there is any way to bypass the fuel pump ECU to drive around, but I was able to connect a power source direct to the fuel pump pins when I was troubleshooting my issue. I used a variable voltage supply (that also allowed me to control the amperage), and was able to drive the fuel pump that way. By confirming that it worked this way, I could eliminate the pump assembly as a problem. My fuel pump was fine.
How hard it is to reach to the Fuel Pump Controller ECU? There is not much wiggle room between the frame, body and fuel tank.

I might need some wrench to reach the bolt.
 
How hard it is to reach to the Fuel Pump Controller ECU? There is not much wiggle room between the frame, body and fuel tank.

I might need some wrench to reach the bolt.
It is a super tight spot. There are two Phillips screws accessible on the visible vertical surface. I tried to remove them, but the 90 degree screwdriver didn't work, too much corrosion. So, I cut the heads off with a Dremel tool, freeing the fuel pump controller ECU. There is also a bolt on top, holding the bracket, but it isn't easily removed - I left the bracket in place. The new ECU comes with new screws.

By the way, the electrical plug to the fuel pump controller ECU has a lever that locks it to the ECU. You need to rotate this lever to remove the plug.
 
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It is a super tight spot. There are two Phillips screws accessible on the visible vertical surface. I tried to remove them, but the 90 degree screwdriver didn't work, too much corrosion. So, I cut the heads off with a Dremel tool, freeing the fuel pump controller ECU. There is also a bolt on top, holding the bracket, but it isn't easily removed - I left the bracket in place. The new ECU comes with new screws.

By the way, the electrical plug to the fuel pump controller ECU has a lever that locks it to the ECU. You need to rotate this lever to remove the plug.
Yup. Mine is rusted badly. New England winter and salt is bad recipe.
I might be able to reach the bolt on the bracket if I get a swivel wrench. Thanks for the info.
 
Oh, I got on that bolt on the top, and even got it to move, the issue is that there isn't enough room to move the wrench very far in an arc. I used a special ratcheting wrench I bought years ago that has a very short throw. It was doable, but not worth the effort (for me). The Dremel worked great and was quicker than messing with the bolt.

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Parts arrived today. Plugged the new Fuel pump controller ECU, the car start up.
It’s a faulty ECU, but not sure why the ECU just crapped out. As info shared from @CharlieS, the existing part no. is no longer valid. Replacement part has similar part no. to 15-18 LC200, 89571-60060. I ordered the part online from McGeorge Toyota.

I’m just happy that this problem don’t cost me a visit to dealership. The information/knowledge shared on this forum is just priceless.

Link to the thread which have lots of good info. 2013 dies repeatedly while driving down the road

Thanks again.

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So it was the ECU, not pump. I was looking for any reports of pump failures the recall is for, and only found this.
 
I’ve got a crank start stall as well.

Yesterday, crank start stall (what I’d call a rough stall too; like 3 cylinders) 2x. 3rd start ran rough for a couple sec, caught and went fast idle to idle. Drove a couple errands with two restarts and no issues.

No dtc stored.

today same immediate stall.
Tried to run it for maybe 10 starts, caught every time but stalled immediately.
No dtc stored

pulled the air intake. Unplugged and replugged the maf. Nothing looked amiss.

still would stall immediately

Put in two gallons gas. Could use heavy throttle to rev to 3500+ but would die out in less than five seconds throttle or not

No dtc

put in two more gallons of gas. Continued to stall within five seconds. Rev rev lug dead.
No dtc.

cleaned the MAF. Started and ran normally.

I highly doubt it was a dirty maf, I clean it every year.
Does this sound like a fuel pump ecu? Are those intermittent at first?
 
My fuel pump ECU issue was out of the blue, immediate onset, at almost exactly 100k miles. Mine would start and run for a minute and then die, but I don’t know if there are other failure modes. It was a pain to debug, but at the end of the day, a new fuel pump ECU resolved it.
 
ugh. i think this might be my issue - 2014 LC ~125k miles... starter cranks but engine does not start...
I had it towed to the dealership after being stranded at the train station parking lot (quite upsetting to see an LC on a flatbed)
 
I’ve got a crank start stall as well.

Yesterday, crank start stall (what I’d call a rough stall too; like 3 cylinders) 2x. 3rd start ran rough for a couple sec, caught and went fast idle to idle. Drove a couple errands with two restarts and no issues.

No dtc stored.

today same immediate stall.
Tried to run it for maybe 10 starts, caught every time but stalled immediately.
No dtc stored

pulled the air intake. Unplugged and replugged the maf. Nothing looked amiss.

still would stall immediately

Put in two gallons gas. Could use heavy throttle to rev to 3500+ but would die out in less than five seconds throttle or not

No dtc

put in two more gallons of gas. Continued to stall within five seconds. Rev rev lug dead.
No dtc.

cleaned the MAF. Started and ran normally.

I highly doubt it was a dirty maf, I clean it every year.
Does this sound like a fuel pump ecu? Are those intermittent at first?
To close this story, it was out of gas. I have since changed the way my sub tank reads on the gas gauge and I have had no further issues.
 
Getting into my 2010 lx570 this morning I had a start then stall. The CEL and battery lights went on but the RPM was at zero. I pressed start again and the starter started cranking until I pressed start a third time to turn off the vehicle.

I disconnected the battery for 10min and the problem remains. It roars to life like normal and then bogs out in a few seconds regardless of me giving it gas or not.

Should I be ordering a fuel pump ecu?

Edit: I have half a tank of gas. And I can hear something like a pump going rrrRRR rrrRRR rrrRRR. Dunno if that's normal but i've noticed it recently on startup. Also the car is from Houston and isn't rusty underneath. It has 212k miles.
edit 2: was not the PCV valve.
edit #3: Local shop can remove/replace the Fuel Pump ECU via dropping the tank method for $300 if that turns out to be the problem.
edit #4: P/N for 2008-2013 is 89570-60150, OOS on partsorq and only one seller on ebay $300 and $320 at Norm Reeves. P/N 8957160060 seems to be newer, can anyone confirm parts.lexus.com is correct this newer part does not fit the 2010? New model is $175.
 
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