Builds Last of the BJs: 1989 BJ60 restoration, 15B-T swap
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15B-T engine build 10
The A/C idler pulley and bracket. The bracket crosses over from the old 3B to 3BII in the Landcruiser BJs and other applications, so is not all that hard to find. The pulley is still available new, though I wonder for how much longer.
Very satisfying that it all fits correctly to the 15B. I don't know why there are 6 (JIS) Grade 8 10 mm bolts holding the compressor bracket on - that makes it better fastened to the engine than either of the engine mount brackets or both of the engine lifting tabs.
Alternator brackets - there are two types which fit the smaller Land Cruiser sized alternators (as opposed to very large output alternators on some 24V Coaster buses). The difference is determined by whether the engine has belt drive power steering (which the BJ60 3BII has) or onboard (or no) power steering. Where there is an external power steering pump, the W PS bracket mounts the alternator very slightly lower than the W/O PS bracket. The W/O PS bracket allows the alternator to pivot closer to the engine. Above is the 3BII W PS bracket, below the W/O PS bracket from the 15B-T which had an onboard power steering pump.
Along with mounting brackets, the two options have different alternator adjuster brackets. Above is the original 3BII bracket (W PS) - this mounts to a point on the cast iron power steering pump bracket. Below is the W/O PS bracket which is fitted to 14Bs and is still available new. It's longer as it is connected directly to the front of the engine block.
3BII alternator bracket and bolts.
EO
The A/C idler pulley and bracket. The bracket crosses over from the old 3B to 3BII in the Landcruiser BJs and other applications, so is not all that hard to find. The pulley is still available new, though I wonder for how much longer.
Very satisfying that it all fits correctly to the 15B. I don't know why there are 6 (JIS) Grade 8 10 mm bolts holding the compressor bracket on - that makes it better fastened to the engine than either of the engine mount brackets or both of the engine lifting tabs.
Alternator brackets - there are two types which fit the smaller Land Cruiser sized alternators (as opposed to very large output alternators on some 24V Coaster buses). The difference is determined by whether the engine has belt drive power steering (which the BJ60 3BII has) or onboard (or no) power steering. Where there is an external power steering pump, the W PS bracket mounts the alternator very slightly lower than the W/O PS bracket. The W/O PS bracket allows the alternator to pivot closer to the engine. Above is the 3BII W PS bracket, below the W/O PS bracket from the 15B-T which had an onboard power steering pump.
Along with mounting brackets, the two options have different alternator adjuster brackets. Above is the original 3BII bracket (W PS) - this mounts to a point on the cast iron power steering pump bracket. Below is the W/O PS bracket which is fitted to 14Bs and is still available new. It's longer as it is connected directly to the front of the engine block.
3BII alternator bracket and bolts.
EO
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FJBen
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I agree, that A/C bracket is Probabaly the strongest bolted thing on these engines. Exact same for 13bt.
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15B-T engine build 11
I'm not putting the alternator or power steering pump on until the engine is ready to fit, but wanted to confirm that my alternators do indeed fit correctly.
Alternator bracket fitted (it should go on before the AC compressor bracket if you want to get a socket on to torque the bolts to the specified 98 Nm).
60 A Tacoma alternator fitted with the 3BII power steering pump bracket and alternator adjuster bar. Aligns perfectly.
45 A Hiace Truck alternator. Also aligns perfectly in the same setup.
And just for comparison, the 45 A alternator with the W/O PS adjuster bolted straight on the block. It lines up but should really be using the W/O PS alternator bracket to bring the alternator up higher.
EO
I'm not putting the alternator or power steering pump on until the engine is ready to fit, but wanted to confirm that my alternators do indeed fit correctly.
Alternator bracket fitted (it should go on before the AC compressor bracket if you want to get a socket on to torque the bolts to the specified 98 Nm).
60 A Tacoma alternator fitted with the 3BII power steering pump bracket and alternator adjuster bar. Aligns perfectly.
45 A Hiace Truck alternator. Also aligns perfectly in the same setup.
And just for comparison, the 45 A alternator with the W/O PS adjuster bolted straight on the block. It lines up but should really be using the W/O PS alternator bracket to bring the alternator up higher.
EO
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15B-T engine build 12
Dipsticks - the BJ60 dipstick 15301-56050 on the bottom vs. the Mega Cruiser dipstick 15301-56060 above. Of course I prefer the older looped-metal finger handle.
The Land Cruiser and Mega Cruiser both use the same shape of sump pan, so the dispsticks are the same length. So no issue to run the BJ60 dipstick in the 15B-T.
Now to start sealing up the bottom end. This is a so-called stiffener plate which most of 14Bs and 15Bs have. I can't really imagine this does much to reinforce the blocks as it's just one or two millimetres thick. But it's clearly not a windage tray either.
Oil pickup and oil transfer pipes. The Land Cruiser 3BII and 15B-T parts are identical. The transfer pipe takes oil from the oil pump into the main oil gallery, passing through the oil filter and cooler and on through more oil passages to the crankshaft, timing gears, oil nozzles, camshaft, rocker shaft etc.
These parts need to be assembled quickly as there is silicone between the reinforcement plate and the block and between the sump pan and the reinforcement plate.
EO
Dipsticks - the BJ60 dipstick 15301-56050 on the bottom vs. the Mega Cruiser dipstick 15301-56060 above. Of course I prefer the older looped-metal finger handle.
The Land Cruiser and Mega Cruiser both use the same shape of sump pan, so the dispsticks are the same length. So no issue to run the BJ60 dipstick in the 15B-T.
Now to start sealing up the bottom end. This is a so-called stiffener plate which most of 14Bs and 15Bs have. I can't really imagine this does much to reinforce the blocks as it's just one or two millimetres thick. But it's clearly not a windage tray either.
Oil pickup and oil transfer pipes. The Land Cruiser 3BII and 15B-T parts are identical. The transfer pipe takes oil from the oil pump into the main oil gallery, passing through the oil filter and cooler and on through more oil passages to the crankshaft, timing gears, oil nozzles, camshaft, rocker shaft etc.
These parts need to be assembled quickly as there is silicone between the reinforcement plate and the block and between the sump pan and the reinforcement plate.
EO
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15B-T engine build 13
The Mega Cruiser sump pan was quite dented from careless handling. I had initially planned on using my immaculate BJ60 sump pan, but I found that the Mega Cruiser pan is double skinned and much sturdier, so I set about trying to get it close to straight.
Not a very clear photo, but by heating the pan and knocking the dents out with a hammer and brass drift, it roughly gets back into shape. I don't think there are any nicks or creases which will leak, but I'll always have the BJ60 sump pan (and another BJ70 spare) to work with it does start leaking.
I gave the pan a coat of 2k epoxy primer then 2k PU semi-gloss black. Then found the sump plug after some searching, and a new gasket. The old 18 mm plug of the 3BII is now a much smaller 12 mm plug. Neither are magnetic.
After a horrible job removing silicone from the old bolts, it's ready to fit.
A 4.5 mm bead of grey silicone RTV goes on, and then the 17 bolts and 7 nuts.
EO
The Mega Cruiser sump pan was quite dented from careless handling. I had initially planned on using my immaculate BJ60 sump pan, but I found that the Mega Cruiser pan is double skinned and much sturdier, so I set about trying to get it close to straight.
Not a very clear photo, but by heating the pan and knocking the dents out with a hammer and brass drift, it roughly gets back into shape. I don't think there are any nicks or creases which will leak, but I'll always have the BJ60 sump pan (and another BJ70 spare) to work with it does start leaking.
I gave the pan a coat of 2k epoxy primer then 2k PU semi-gloss black. Then found the sump plug after some searching, and a new gasket. The old 18 mm plug of the 3BII is now a much smaller 12 mm plug. Neither are magnetic.
After a horrible job removing silicone from the old bolts, it's ready to fit.
A 4.5 mm bead of grey silicone RTV goes on, and then the 17 bolts and 7 nuts.
EO
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15B-T engine build 14
With the sump pan on, the crankshaft pulleys can go on. The 15B-T comes with a dual-belt pulley which I believe is unique to the Mega Cruiser and will not correctly accommodate the AC drive belt pulley, so has to be replaced. The original 3BII harmonic balancer pulley was showing signs of coming apart; the rubber has cracked and is puching out from the join, leaving witness marks on the front timing cover.
The 3BII harmonic balancer pulley 13470-56180 is no longer available, but there is a 14B pulley, 13470-58060 which is identical in all dimensions except it has a shallower front bore where the bolt goes in. But the 15B-T pulley bolt fits this dimension correctly.
Here are all the crankshaft pulleys; from bottom to top, the 14B single-belt harmonic balancer pulley, then the AC drive belt pulley 88451-25020 (which is also still available), and then the power steering drive belt pulley which is NLA (this one came from Beno - I assume from his BJ70s dead 3B). These parts fit all B Series engine since at least 1984, they are not just for the later 3BII / 14B / 15B engines.
This makes for quite a tall stack.
I made a simple tool to hold the crank pulley in place while torquing up the bolt beyond the scale of my torque wrench.
Then the AC and PAS pulleys go on with six 8 mm bolts.
EO
With the sump pan on, the crankshaft pulleys can go on. The 15B-T comes with a dual-belt pulley which I believe is unique to the Mega Cruiser and will not correctly accommodate the AC drive belt pulley, so has to be replaced. The original 3BII harmonic balancer pulley was showing signs of coming apart; the rubber has cracked and is puching out from the join, leaving witness marks on the front timing cover.
The 3BII harmonic balancer pulley 13470-56180 is no longer available, but there is a 14B pulley, 13470-58060 which is identical in all dimensions except it has a shallower front bore where the bolt goes in. But the 15B-T pulley bolt fits this dimension correctly.
Here are all the crankshaft pulleys; from bottom to top, the 14B single-belt harmonic balancer pulley, then the AC drive belt pulley 88451-25020 (which is also still available), and then the power steering drive belt pulley which is NLA (this one came from Beno - I assume from his BJ70s dead 3B). These parts fit all B Series engine since at least 1984, they are not just for the later 3BII / 14B / 15B engines.
This makes for quite a tall stack.
I made a simple tool to hold the crank pulley in place while torquing up the bolt beyond the scale of my torque wrench.
Then the AC and PAS pulleys go on with six 8 mm bolts.
EO
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15B-T engine build 15
Next should have been a very simple step, replacing the rocker shaft assembly. This somes off the cylinder head as a complete assembly - shaft, rockers and supports, and given the low kilometres of the engine, I was not really planning to dismantle it. It was only removed so that the pushrods and lifters could be removed, in order to remove the camshaft and replace the camshaft bearings. You can see the slight surface rust on the ferrous components of the top-end of the engine, though the camera flash picks up the reds and makes it look a lot more severe than it is to the eye in daylight.
But curiosity got the better of me (better to check...)...
...and I made another 'discovery'. The hardened points of the rocker arms where they engage with the pushrods and the valve stem caps are only slightly 'polished', no wear patterns. The internal bores of the rocker arms have mild contact patches which to me look perfectly normal for a used part. The rocker shaft itself however, has what I would regard as considerable wear where it sits in the cast iron support pieces which bolt to the head. And the internal bore of these support pieces has similar wear patterns. @aztoyman identified this as fretting of the shaft, and having read up on this, I think he is exactly right. This is the front of the shaft where it is locked into the #1 rocker.
There are five supports for the rocker shaft; a front (No.1 type), three intermediate supports (No.2 type) and a rear support, (No. 3 type). There is very clear fretting wear on the first four of these, the rear support is less worn, which is odd, as ths would be the last place on the oil pressure circuit of the engine. Here is not very clear view of wear inside the front support.
Here for comparison is the 3BII rocker shaft (the 3BII uses the same shaft but slightly different rocker supports as the rocker shaft is positioned very slightly closer to the pushrods to accommodate the pre-combustion chambers). The 3BII shaft is more severely worn, but probably has an order of magnitude more kilometres on it.
So, I will get a new shaft and new supports. The shaft is still readily available, but the supports would turn into another part-chasing adventure.
EO
Next should have been a very simple step, replacing the rocker shaft assembly. This somes off the cylinder head as a complete assembly - shaft, rockers and supports, and given the low kilometres of the engine, I was not really planning to dismantle it. It was only removed so that the pushrods and lifters could be removed, in order to remove the camshaft and replace the camshaft bearings. You can see the slight surface rust on the ferrous components of the top-end of the engine, though the camera flash picks up the reds and makes it look a lot more severe than it is to the eye in daylight.
But curiosity got the better of me (better to check...)...
...and I made another 'discovery'. The hardened points of the rocker arms where they engage with the pushrods and the valve stem caps are only slightly 'polished', no wear patterns. The internal bores of the rocker arms have mild contact patches which to me look perfectly normal for a used part. The rocker shaft itself however, has what I would regard as considerable wear where it sits in the cast iron support pieces which bolt to the head. And the internal bore of these support pieces has similar wear patterns. @aztoyman identified this as fretting of the shaft, and having read up on this, I think he is exactly right. This is the front of the shaft where it is locked into the #1 rocker.
There are five supports for the rocker shaft; a front (No.1 type), three intermediate supports (No.2 type) and a rear support, (No. 3 type). There is very clear fretting wear on the first four of these, the rear support is less worn, which is odd, as ths would be the last place on the oil pressure circuit of the engine. Here is not very clear view of wear inside the front support.
Here for comparison is the 3BII rocker shaft (the 3BII uses the same shaft but slightly different rocker supports as the rocker shaft is positioned very slightly closer to the pushrods to accommodate the pre-combustion chambers). The 3BII shaft is more severely worn, but probably has an order of magnitude more kilometres on it.
So, I will get a new shaft and new supports. The shaft is still readily available, but the supports would turn into another part-chasing adventure.
EO
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15B-T engine build 16
New rocker shafts, 13901-56030 are cheap and easy to find. I paid just under USD 25 from Japan.
I managed to find a front and two intermediate rocker supports from Parts Next in the UAE - I think these were old stock sitting around as none of the other UAE suppliers had them. The front support is a good tight fit on the rocker shaft, though the two intermediate supports feel a bit looser than I would have expected.
So far, so good then, But it seems that these rocker supports are all in fact on long term backorder or NLA from Toyota. No.1 and No.3 are also on backorder or NLA from Daihatsu. No.2 is still available however from Daihatsu.
I was planning to run with my old rear rocker support, which only had traces of fretting on, though with a new shaft I would have been happier with a new one (they are about USD 15-20 each). Then I found that IMPEX has a ctalogue of Yamaha ME370 parts, which is a marinised, 165 HP version of the 14B-T. Amazingly, the supports are available through Yamaha, so this is how I got my complete set.
Rebuilt rocker shaft assembly ready to fit. I also had a set of new valve stem caps which I was planning ring to use in the 3BII when I still thought it was savable, bit can now go in the 15B-T.
EO
New rocker shafts, 13901-56030 are cheap and easy to find. I paid just under USD 25 from Japan.
I managed to find a front and two intermediate rocker supports from Parts Next in the UAE - I think these were old stock sitting around as none of the other UAE suppliers had them. The front support is a good tight fit on the rocker shaft, though the two intermediate supports feel a bit looser than I would have expected.
So far, so good then, But it seems that these rocker supports are all in fact on long term backorder or NLA from Toyota. No.1 and No.3 are also on backorder or NLA from Daihatsu. No.2 is still available however from Daihatsu.
I was planning to run with my old rear rocker support, which only had traces of fretting on, though with a new shaft I would have been happier with a new one (they are about USD 15-20 each). Then I found that IMPEX has a ctalogue of Yamaha ME370 parts, which is a marinised, 165 HP version of the 14B-T. Amazingly, the supports are available through Yamaha, so this is how I got my complete set.
Rebuilt rocker shaft assembly ready to fit. I also had a set of new valve stem caps which I was planning ring to use in the 3BII when I still thought it was savable, bit can now go in the 15B-T.
EO
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15B-T engine build 17
I wiped down the top of the cylinder head - aside from the minor surface rust, it's very clean. Absolutely zero sludge.
Pushrods in.
New valve stem caps on the valves. I could have reused the originals but stupidly mixed them up when inverting the engine with the rocker off and realised when I heard them clatter around. Finding the last one was quite a chase.
Rocker shaft in and torqued up in the correct sequence.
The engine is at TDC for #1 piston on the compression stroke, so I can set the valve clearance for valves 1, 2, 3 and 6. The specs are actually for a hot engine, so once I get it running, I'll need to re-do them. But I think they sould be good for an inital run. I still have not fitted the injection pump, so I won't rotate the engine and will need to do valves 4, 5, 7 and 8 later on.
EO
I wiped down the top of the cylinder head - aside from the minor surface rust, it's very clean. Absolutely zero sludge.
Pushrods in.
New valve stem caps on the valves. I could have reused the originals but stupidly mixed them up when inverting the engine with the rocker off and realised when I heard them clatter around. Finding the last one was quite a chase.
Rocker shaft in and torqued up in the correct sequence.
The engine is at TDC for #1 piston on the compression stroke, so I can set the valve clearance for valves 1, 2, 3 and 6. The specs are actually for a hot engine, so once I get it running, I'll need to re-do them. But I think they sould be good for an inital run. I still have not fitted the injection pump, so I won't rotate the engine and will need to do valves 4, 5, 7 and 8 later on.
EO
I'm amazed that you found everything you need. Your hard work and determination paid off. You are quite the parts detective.
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15B-T engine build 18
Intake manifold time (this is slightly out of order, as you can see from the above pics). Firstly, I remove a blanking plug from the head and fit this union port for the heater hose (the Mega Cruiser heater hose came out of the thermostat housing).
The intake manifold gasket is the same as the 3BII, but the DI intake manifold has a large mounting flange for the grid heater.
New gasket on.
Fitted.
EO
Intake manifold time (this is slightly out of order, as you can see from the above pics). Firstly, I remove a blanking plug from the head and fit this union port for the heater hose (the Mega Cruiser heater hose came out of the thermostat housing).
The intake manifold gasket is the same as the 3BII, but the DI intake manifold has a large mounting flange for the grid heater.
New gasket on.
Fitted.
EO
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15B-T engine build 19
Water pump time. This is an AISIN unit with the smaller drive plate for the fixed fan (no fan clutch) which the BJ60 originally came with. I have a fan clutch (from the Mega Cruiser) and fan and the fan clutch-type water pump is easy to get, but the I've never managed to find the correct pulley to go with it. Here in tropical SE Asia where AC is needed, the fixed clutch will be good, but once it gets onto, for example, European motorways in the colder month, it will be unnecessary and noisy. So there's something still on my wanted list...
I've already fitted the bypass hose and the short joining hose for the heater pipe. There is also a union for the coolant hose to the ACSD on the fuel injection pump. I'm on the fence whether I want to use the ACSD, so I have a blanking plug on hand in case I change my mind.
One step closer to a fully built engine...
With the water pump on, I decide to test fit the vacuum pipe which goes from the vacuum pump across to the alternator bracket (from where it goes to the brake booster and AC idle-up VSV). This pipe came from the 3BII; the 15B-T has a similar pipe but it is shorter and clashes with where the 3BII power steering pump will mount. By carefully making a bend it fits to the slightly wider 15B-T intake manifold.
I'll need to make a small bracket to mount the pipe on the top of the timing cover and avoid fouling with the hard line that goes to the ACSD from the water pump.
EO
Water pump time. This is an AISIN unit with the smaller drive plate for the fixed fan (no fan clutch) which the BJ60 originally came with. I have a fan clutch (from the Mega Cruiser) and fan and the fan clutch-type water pump is easy to get, but the I've never managed to find the correct pulley to go with it. Here in tropical SE Asia where AC is needed, the fixed clutch will be good, but once it gets onto, for example, European motorways in the colder month, it will be unnecessary and noisy. So there's something still on my wanted list...
I've already fitted the bypass hose and the short joining hose for the heater pipe. There is also a union for the coolant hose to the ACSD on the fuel injection pump. I'm on the fence whether I want to use the ACSD, so I have a blanking plug on hand in case I change my mind.
One step closer to a fully built engine...
With the water pump on, I decide to test fit the vacuum pipe which goes from the vacuum pump across to the alternator bracket (from where it goes to the brake booster and AC idle-up VSV). This pipe came from the 3BII; the 15B-T has a similar pipe but it is shorter and clashes with where the 3BII power steering pump will mount. By carefully making a bend it fits to the slightly wider 15B-T intake manifold.
I'll need to make a small bracket to mount the pipe on the top of the timing cover and avoid fouling with the hard line that goes to the ACSD from the water pump.
EO
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15B-T engine build 20
Injectors. Being a low kilometre engine, I was not expecting to find problems with the fuel injectors. They are the DI mechanical type, the same form as injectors for the 13B, 11B, 14B and 12H-T engines. However, the nozzles, Nippon Denso DLLA150P622, were used only on the 15B-T. If they were ever available to the public, they are certainly NLA now. So I was really hoping, indeed expecting, that the injectors would be fine. But it would be foolish to do an engine refresh as detailed at this and just assume that the injectors, which are a major service item on a diesel engine, would be OK. So time for a trip across the border to Miri in Sarawak to a diesel specialist. The nozzle tips were all dry, but had plenty of carbon on them, though I think this is normal in a diesel engine an not very diagnostic.
Anyway to my surprise, three out of the four injector when tested emitted a few pathetic streams of diesel well below the rated opening pressure of 200-210 bar with poor atomisation and a weak hiss. No good. So now a hunt for replacement injector nozzles.
The impossible to find DLLA150P622 nozzle.
In the front of the shop is an interesting cutaway of a Denso VE pump with a boost compenator. The owner of the shop, Mr Henry Chew, cut this (and other types of pump) himself. It's much better than the 2D pictures in a lot of information on how these VE pumps work.
While I was in Miri, I also spotted what is, after a square headlight 60, my favourite Land Cruiser - a MWB 73/74 Series. A shame about the snorkel and non original wheels, but looks good from this distance.
EO
Injectors. Being a low kilometre engine, I was not expecting to find problems with the fuel injectors. They are the DI mechanical type, the same form as injectors for the 13B, 11B, 14B and 12H-T engines. However, the nozzles, Nippon Denso DLLA150P622, were used only on the 15B-T. If they were ever available to the public, they are certainly NLA now. So I was really hoping, indeed expecting, that the injectors would be fine. But it would be foolish to do an engine refresh as detailed at this and just assume that the injectors, which are a major service item on a diesel engine, would be OK. So time for a trip across the border to Miri in Sarawak to a diesel specialist. The nozzle tips were all dry, but had plenty of carbon on them, though I think this is normal in a diesel engine an not very diagnostic.
Anyway to my surprise, three out of the four injector when tested emitted a few pathetic streams of diesel well below the rated opening pressure of 200-210 bar with poor atomisation and a weak hiss. No good. So now a hunt for replacement injector nozzles.
The impossible to find DLLA150P622 nozzle.
In the front of the shop is an interesting cutaway of a Denso VE pump with a boost compenator. The owner of the shop, Mr Henry Chew, cut this (and other types of pump) himself. It's much better than the 2D pictures in a lot of information on how these VE pumps work.
While I was in Miri, I also spotted what is, after a square headlight 60, my favourite Land Cruiser - a MWB 73/74 Series. A shame about the snorkel and non original wheels, but looks good from this distance.
EO
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Those injectors can't be rebuilt?
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15B-T engine build 21
Selecting new injector nozzles. At first, the logical choice for unavailable 15B-T nozzles would be the common 15B-FT nozzle. However, the design of the injector in the -FT is different, and as its a four valve engine, the injector comes into the cylinder vertically. In the eight valve 15B-T, the injector comes in at an angle die to the large valves.
1HD-T nozzles are relatively cheap and easy to find, but although the injector body is the same design, on a per-cylinder basis, the 1HD-T is going to be injecting less fuel than the 15B-T, so I thought this would not be a good match.
So that leaves the 14B-T. Effectively identical to the 15B-T, this is an obvious candidate, but the snag is that the nozzles are NLA from Toyota and 14B-T parts are rare as it's not a commn engine. The Toyota 14B-T uses Nippon Denso nozzle DLLA150P75. I found two sources eventually, both in Australia. One online shop had them for AUD202 and a guy who frequents Australian FB groups offered me nozzles for AUD260 each! Even with the weak Aussie Dollar, that is expensive.
The breakthrough was finding a parts catalogue on the IMPEX website for the Yamaha ME370, a marinised 14B-T. cross-referenceing part numbers, I found that this is a second type of 14B-T nozzle, DLLA150P621. Just one number off my 15B-T nozzles (though that does not necessarily imply they are very similar). The Yamaha ME370 is intercooled and is rated at 165 HP, so about what I would expect from my 15B-T, compared to the 140 HP of the Toyota 14B-T. So this seemed the next best thing to my original nozzle. IMPEX has them for about EUR50 each, about 40 % of the price of the Australian-soured Denso nozzles. I received them earlier this week.
I also got some new springs. I don't know if they lose tension much over time, but they were very cheap.
So this morning I took myself back across the border to Miri, had the injectors rebuilt with new nozzles and caluibrated to about 200 bar opening pressure with shims. When tested, the nozzles make that nice creaking sound an emit five perfect jets of atomised diesel. I was able to watch the work being done on the spot, take pictures, and it cost less that USD 10.
A couple more shots of the shop. This is the room for mechanical injectors and pumps.
And the bench tester for VE pumps. I'm now thinking whether to have my pump overhauled with a new housing which deletes the ACSD port....
EO
Selecting new injector nozzles. At first, the logical choice for unavailable 15B-T nozzles would be the common 15B-FT nozzle. However, the design of the injector in the -FT is different, and as its a four valve engine, the injector comes into the cylinder vertically. In the eight valve 15B-T, the injector comes in at an angle die to the large valves.
1HD-T nozzles are relatively cheap and easy to find, but although the injector body is the same design, on a per-cylinder basis, the 1HD-T is going to be injecting less fuel than the 15B-T, so I thought this would not be a good match.
So that leaves the 14B-T. Effectively identical to the 15B-T, this is an obvious candidate, but the snag is that the nozzles are NLA from Toyota and 14B-T parts are rare as it's not a commn engine. The Toyota 14B-T uses Nippon Denso nozzle DLLA150P75. I found two sources eventually, both in Australia. One online shop had them for AUD202 and a guy who frequents Australian FB groups offered me nozzles for AUD260 each! Even with the weak Aussie Dollar, that is expensive.
The breakthrough was finding a parts catalogue on the IMPEX website for the Yamaha ME370, a marinised 14B-T. cross-referenceing part numbers, I found that this is a second type of 14B-T nozzle, DLLA150P621. Just one number off my 15B-T nozzles (though that does not necessarily imply they are very similar). The Yamaha ME370 is intercooled and is rated at 165 HP, so about what I would expect from my 15B-T, compared to the 140 HP of the Toyota 14B-T. So this seemed the next best thing to my original nozzle. IMPEX has them for about EUR50 each, about 40 % of the price of the Australian-soured Denso nozzles. I received them earlier this week.
I also got some new springs. I don't know if they lose tension much over time, but they were very cheap.
So this morning I took myself back across the border to Miri, had the injectors rebuilt with new nozzles and caluibrated to about 200 bar opening pressure with shims. When tested, the nozzles make that nice creaking sound an emit five perfect jets of atomised diesel. I was able to watch the work being done on the spot, take pictures, and it cost less that USD 10.
A couple more shots of the shop. This is the room for mechanical injectors and pumps.
And the bench tester for VE pumps. I'm now thinking whether to have my pump overhauled with a new housing which deletes the ACSD port....
EO
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You beat me to it! Yes, they are standard mechanical injectors, but I can't get the exact original injector nozzles as the 15B-T was never sold to public, only supplied to the Japanese military in the early BXD10 Mega Cruisers, and maybe a couple of other military spec vehicles.
- Joined
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- Threads
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- 1,560
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- eurasiaoverland.com
- Thread starter
- #320
Yes, nothing like brand new nozzles. I remember the engine smoking a bit when it was revved on the floor of the warehouse I bought it from, hopefully the ratty injection pattern was the cause.
I know the DI engines are sensitive to injecto spray pattern, as the combustion happens in the piston cavity. I've been told that one of the good things about pre-combustion chambers is that there is less sensitivity to injection pattern, though I guess when turbocharged you're running the engine on the edge of what heat flow it can deal with, and any additional heat from running rich can push it over the edge... It's nice that 3B injectors are really very simple and easy to service.
