Balls of fire mate!!
Builds Last of the BJs: 1989 BJ60 restoration, 15B-T swap (2 Viewers)
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Injection pump 2
First stop, the timer piston covers and stopper/adjuster nut. The piston moves under fuel pressure inside the pump (which varies according to engine speed) to rotate the static rollers so that the camplate engages slightly earlier, this advancing fuel injection relative to engine rotation. This spring will adjust the rate of timing advance.
This timer stopper nut is how the spring tension is set, so the amount of protrusion from the timer cover is a critical adjustment. The nut has an O-ring on it which gets quite a bit of pressure and is a possible leak point. Back in 2007 in my Hilux, I was starting a very long overland trip (planned for 12-18 months but lasted 55) and on my way across Europe, I was alarmed by my injection pump starting to leave a trail of diesel drips on the roads of the Polish Tatras Mountains. It was this O-ring which was the culprit.
Next is to take off the top cover. I think where the accelerator arm shaft goes through the top cover is the most common leak point on these pumps - it's a tight O-ring and will be subject to movement all the time. The O-ring is the same size as the ACSD shaft O-ring, hence the two pieces.
Pump internals look good. I little bit of grime on the governor flyweight holder, nothing that worries me right now.
The inside of the top cover is nice and clean. At the back are the max speed screw, which limits the maximum injection volume, and what is called alternatively a dash pot (FSM) or pressure regulator (EPC). My understanding is that this is basically a damper which softens the return to idle when accelerator is released.
EO
First stop, the timer piston covers and stopper/adjuster nut. The piston moves under fuel pressure inside the pump (which varies according to engine speed) to rotate the static rollers so that the camplate engages slightly earlier, this advancing fuel injection relative to engine rotation. This spring will adjust the rate of timing advance.
This timer stopper nut is how the spring tension is set, so the amount of protrusion from the timer cover is a critical adjustment. The nut has an O-ring on it which gets quite a bit of pressure and is a possible leak point. Back in 2007 in my Hilux, I was starting a very long overland trip (planned for 12-18 months but lasted 55) and on my way across Europe, I was alarmed by my injection pump starting to leave a trail of diesel drips on the roads of the Polish Tatras Mountains. It was this O-ring which was the culprit.
Next is to take off the top cover. I think where the accelerator arm shaft goes through the top cover is the most common leak point on these pumps - it's a tight O-ring and will be subject to movement all the time. The O-ring is the same size as the ACSD shaft O-ring, hence the two pieces.
Pump internals look good. I little bit of grime on the governor flyweight holder, nothing that worries me right now.
The inside of the top cover is nice and clean. At the back are the max speed screw, which limits the maximum injection volume, and what is called alternatively a dash pot (FSM) or pressure regulator (EPC). My understanding is that this is basically a damper which softens the return to idle when accelerator is released.
EO
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Injection pump 3
Removing the stop solenoid, delivery valves, plunger bore plug and then distributive head/plunger reveals the innards of the pump. I removed the camplate to get a good look at it and the rollers and it all looks OK.
The plunger moves smoothly in the head, and the spill ring (not shown) moves freely on the plunger, so no drama there. Surprisingly, a new head/plunger/spill ring assembly from Denso is pretty cheap (USD 132 on Partsouq).
Two of the thrust washers between the plunger and plunger spring seat have corroded against each other. I saw the exact same (but worse) when I stripped my 3BII injection pump, so I had these two in stock and could replace them immediately.
I clean the head up to get rid of any dirt in the stop solenoid area, where there is a small plastic strainer. The head then gets a new O-ring.
A new Denso 12V stop solenoid with O-ring.
EO
Removing the stop solenoid, delivery valves, plunger bore plug and then distributive head/plunger reveals the innards of the pump. I removed the camplate to get a good look at it and the rollers and it all looks OK.
The plunger moves smoothly in the head, and the spill ring (not shown) moves freely on the plunger, so no drama there. Surprisingly, a new head/plunger/spill ring assembly from Denso is pretty cheap (USD 132 on Partsouq).
Two of the thrust washers between the plunger and plunger spring seat have corroded against each other. I saw the exact same (but worse) when I stripped my 3BII injection pump, so I had these two in stock and could replace them immediately.
I clean the head up to get rid of any dirt in the stop solenoid area, where there is a small plastic strainer. The head then gets a new O-ring.
A new Denso 12V stop solenoid with O-ring.
EO
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Injection pump 4
Camplate goes back on the rollers, then a small shim, then the plunger, two thrust washers, plunger spring seat and spill ring as a sub-assembly drop into the camplate.
Grease is used to hold the two plunger springs (checked for free length - as new) with their guides/shims, and the two governor link springs, so that the head can be carefully lowered onto the plunger.
A new O-ring for the distributive head plug.
Then the deliver valves go back into the head, with springs, seats and valve holders tightening down onto new copper washers.
Then a new top cover gasket so the pump can be sealed up again.
EO
Camplate goes back on the rollers, then a small shim, then the plunger, two thrust washers, plunger spring seat and spill ring as a sub-assembly drop into the camplate.
Grease is used to hold the two plunger springs (checked for free length - as new) with their guides/shims, and the two governor link springs, so that the head can be carefully lowered onto the plunger.
A new O-ring for the distributive head plug.
Then the deliver valves go back into the head, with springs, seats and valve holders tightening down onto new copper washers.
Then a new top cover gasket so the pump can be sealed up again.
EO
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Injection pump 4
A new terminal wire and cap for the fuel cut solenoid.
This grey plug has three terminal slots, but only one is used on the BJ60. The other two are usually for the tachometer sensor, but the Mega Cruiser (military version) did not have a tachometer and the BJ60 has the tachometer pickup in the clutch housing. So that suits me.
I picked up a NOS accelerator bracket which is used on a number of engines (1HZ, 14B, 1HD etc) when used with a manual transmission. The spring, retainer and nut are original from the pump.
With this, all traces that this once was used with an auto transmission have been erased.
The vertical tab is the important part here - it allows an idle-up actuator to bump up the idle when the AC is switched on, via a vacuum switching valve.
EO
A new terminal wire and cap for the fuel cut solenoid.
This grey plug has three terminal slots, but only one is used on the BJ60. The other two are usually for the tachometer sensor, but the Mega Cruiser (military version) did not have a tachometer and the BJ60 has the tachometer pickup in the clutch housing. So that suits me.
I picked up a NOS accelerator bracket which is used on a number of engines (1HZ, 14B, 1HD etc) when used with a manual transmission. The spring, retainer and nut are original from the pump.
With this, all traces that this once was used with an auto transmission have been erased.
The vertical tab is the important part here - it allows an idle-up actuator to bump up the idle when the AC is switched on, via a vacuum switching valve.
EO
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Injection pump 6
Fuel supply pipe. The BJ60 has 8 mm fuel supply pipes and hoses all the way from the tank pick-up to the injection pump, so the stubby 10 mm inlet banjo on the Mega Cruiser pump has to go. I was planning to use the BJ60 pump supply pipe, which seems to be a strange 10 mm pipe ending in an 8 mm bead rolled end section, and is also rather crudely bent in places.
However, when test fitting, it hit the ACSD, so I had to look for an alternative.
After a bit of searching, I remembered thay my Hilux has an 8 mm supply pipe and an ACSD, and looked up the part number. I was pleasantly surprised to find that not only the pipe, but the clamp attaching it to the bottom of the injection pump were still available.
The clamp is held to the pump by a 10 mm bolt. Here we can see the Bosch origin of the pump; as well as having a stupid hex drive head, so favoured by German manufacturers, it also has an M10x1.5 mm standard thread, unlike any other 10 mm bolt on the vehicle.
Fitted to the pump.
The last thing I need for the pump is some parts for the ACSD to convert it to a manual transmission style, which have kindly been donated and sent to a friend of mine in Perth by @frankenyota . Once I get my hands on these bits I'll finish the pump with the idle-up bracket, actuator and ACSD unit.
EO
Fuel supply pipe. The BJ60 has 8 mm fuel supply pipes and hoses all the way from the tank pick-up to the injection pump, so the stubby 10 mm inlet banjo on the Mega Cruiser pump has to go. I was planning to use the BJ60 pump supply pipe, which seems to be a strange 10 mm pipe ending in an 8 mm bead rolled end section, and is also rather crudely bent in places.
However, when test fitting, it hit the ACSD, so I had to look for an alternative.
After a bit of searching, I remembered thay my Hilux has an 8 mm supply pipe and an ACSD, and looked up the part number. I was pleasantly surprised to find that not only the pipe, but the clamp attaching it to the bottom of the injection pump were still available.
The clamp is held to the pump by a 10 mm bolt. Here we can see the Bosch origin of the pump; as well as having a stupid hex drive head, so favoured by German manufacturers, it also has an M10x1.5 mm standard thread, unlike any other 10 mm bolt on the vehicle.
Fitted to the pump.
The last thing I need for the pump is some parts for the ACSD to convert it to a manual transmission style, which have kindly been donated and sent to a friend of mine in Perth by @frankenyota . Once I get my hands on these bits I'll finish the pump with the idle-up bracket, actuator and ACSD unit.
EO
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Holy Smokes! I can't imagine this type of mechanical detail and the time investment it requires to rebuild so many pieces/parts. I am excitedly following your progress and look forward to your reports from the trip!
Raymond
Raymond
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Thanks guys, I really appreciate the encouragement, helps with motivation! I'm currently enjoying myself with these mechanical bits (the stuff I really enjoy) before doing the last big push and getting the primer coat and seam sealer finished on all the panels (the part of the rebuild I don't enjoy) so the body can go to a paint shop. Feels good to get all the old hardware back up to scratch, hopefully for some trouble free travel in the old Land Cruiser
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Engine paint
It's hard for me to get specialist paint out here, nobody sells engine paint nearby as far as I know, and certainly not in a wide range of colours. So it has to be sneaked into airmail packages with the hope that it gets through.
There seems to be no documentation online on what colour Toyota used on engine blocks. I've seen people on MUD swear the 2H is RAL 5015, but the RAL system is European (German) and I don't for a moment believe the Japanese used it. Nevertheless, I found an eBay retailer selling RAL brake caliper paint and got a pot of RAL 5015. It was much too light.
I then got a pot of RAL 5017 which looked closer to the original colour; close enough that I chose to run with it rather spending more money testing RAL colours.
So I carefully masked off the block. Where holes tappedinto the block are not used, I decided to clean the up and paint them to stop them rusting. All the taped over holes will be used when the engine is fully built.
Then I sprayed a few coats of this enamel paint. To be honest, I think 1k paint is all rubbish best for plastic model aeroplanes, but I'm not sure an epoxy primer/2k PU topcoat would withstand the heat around the exhaust manifold area. So only time will tell how this enamel paint holds up. Days later it feels weak and marks easily, but then I am used to rock-hard 2k paint which has gone on every other component of the vehicle. Hopefully once the engine is built nothing will really touch the block.
This gives an idea of the colour match - the colour is a fair way off, but it's hard to match aged paint with fresh gloss paint. I like the new colour and think it will look good once the engine is built up.
EO
It's hard for me to get specialist paint out here, nobody sells engine paint nearby as far as I know, and certainly not in a wide range of colours. So it has to be sneaked into airmail packages with the hope that it gets through.
There seems to be no documentation online on what colour Toyota used on engine blocks. I've seen people on MUD swear the 2H is RAL 5015, but the RAL system is European (German) and I don't for a moment believe the Japanese used it. Nevertheless, I found an eBay retailer selling RAL brake caliper paint and got a pot of RAL 5015. It was much too light.
I then got a pot of RAL 5017 which looked closer to the original colour; close enough that I chose to run with it rather spending more money testing RAL colours.
So I carefully masked off the block. Where holes tappedinto the block are not used, I decided to clean the up and paint them to stop them rusting. All the taped over holes will be used when the engine is fully built.
Then I sprayed a few coats of this enamel paint. To be honest, I think 1k paint is all rubbish best for plastic model aeroplanes, but I'm not sure an epoxy primer/2k PU topcoat would withstand the heat around the exhaust manifold area. So only time will tell how this enamel paint holds up. Days later it feels weak and marks easily, but then I am used to rock-hard 2k paint which has gone on every other component of the vehicle. Hopefully once the engine is built nothing will really touch the block.
This gives an idea of the colour match - the colour is a fair way off, but it's hard to match aged paint with fresh gloss paint. I like the new colour and think it will look good once the engine is built up.
EO
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15B-T engine build 1
If you've read earlier posts on the engine, you'll know that it appears to have been left drained (down to the drain plug, which is not the lowest point of the coolant system) for what I believe was a period of many years, during which the block became filled with a sludgy precipitate of rust that choked the oil cooler and completely blocked a coolant passage from the water pump to the oil cooler. It was so firmly blocked that even a pressure washer and compressed air line did nothing to shift the blockage. I had to knock out a small bore plug and scrape out the precipitate with a pick.
I gave the block a full flush with warm citric acid for several days and drained a lot of sticky black liquid, followed with a very thorough flush with water. But I still had reservations about what lurked at the bottom of the block and would get chunks of soft, powdery deposits coming into the water pump port every time I inverted the engine to work on it.
So, to be really sure, I wanted to knock out some core plugs. I didn't want to knock out all of them as some are deep in the engine, reached by knocking out outer plugs which give access to the pushrod galleries from where the inner coolant jacket plugs can be reached. The tricky to access plugs are not near the bottom and I don't think will have an issue with rust.
The lowest plugs are a series of four 35 mm plugs adjacent to each cylinder, on the intake side of the engine. I knocked these out. Or rather, I knocked them in as they are all too small to flip over in the bores, so I had a fun hour fishing around for them and working them forward to the water pump port where they can be easily picked up.
The 35 mm plugs show surface rust which has advanced in places to small pock-marks, some of which go quite deep. I would say that they were no about to rust through, but were definitely on the way. They also show deeper corrosion along old fluid level marks, where the remains of the coolant must have sat for years slowly evaporating off.
I also knocked out two 50 mm plugs; one at the back of the engine and one at the front, behind the water pump. These plugs were the highest in the block that I removed, and showed minimal surface rust. This is the bore at the back of the block.
In 11/1994, Toyota switched to stainless steel for these core plugs in the B engines, so my 05/1994 block has the older mild steel plugs (with cadmium plating). Much as I dislike stainless steel as a material, they are clearly a better choice for core plugs and so I went with the later style stainless plugs. Here you can see the old plugs vs. new genuine stainless plugs for the seven plugs I have chosen to replace (the tiny one is for the water pump to oil cooler bore, not technically a 'core' plug).
I knocked in new core plugs with a bit of Loctite 638, which is a strong retaining compound with good filling/sealing properties. There seem no end of opinions on what to use on them online, so I used what I had to hand. Looking good with the new block paint.
EO
If you've read earlier posts on the engine, you'll know that it appears to have been left drained (down to the drain plug, which is not the lowest point of the coolant system) for what I believe was a period of many years, during which the block became filled with a sludgy precipitate of rust that choked the oil cooler and completely blocked a coolant passage from the water pump to the oil cooler. It was so firmly blocked that even a pressure washer and compressed air line did nothing to shift the blockage. I had to knock out a small bore plug and scrape out the precipitate with a pick.
I gave the block a full flush with warm citric acid for several days and drained a lot of sticky black liquid, followed with a very thorough flush with water. But I still had reservations about what lurked at the bottom of the block and would get chunks of soft, powdery deposits coming into the water pump port every time I inverted the engine to work on it.
So, to be really sure, I wanted to knock out some core plugs. I didn't want to knock out all of them as some are deep in the engine, reached by knocking out outer plugs which give access to the pushrod galleries from where the inner coolant jacket plugs can be reached. The tricky to access plugs are not near the bottom and I don't think will have an issue with rust.
The lowest plugs are a series of four 35 mm plugs adjacent to each cylinder, on the intake side of the engine. I knocked these out. Or rather, I knocked them in as they are all too small to flip over in the bores, so I had a fun hour fishing around for them and working them forward to the water pump port where they can be easily picked up.
The 35 mm plugs show surface rust which has advanced in places to small pock-marks, some of which go quite deep. I would say that they were no about to rust through, but were definitely on the way. They also show deeper corrosion along old fluid level marks, where the remains of the coolant must have sat for years slowly evaporating off.
I also knocked out two 50 mm plugs; one at the back of the engine and one at the front, behind the water pump. These plugs were the highest in the block that I removed, and showed minimal surface rust. This is the bore at the back of the block.
In 11/1994, Toyota switched to stainless steel for these core plugs in the B engines, so my 05/1994 block has the older mild steel plugs (with cadmium plating). Much as I dislike stainless steel as a material, they are clearly a better choice for core plugs and so I went with the later style stainless plugs. Here you can see the old plugs vs. new genuine stainless plugs for the seven plugs I have chosen to replace (the tiny one is for the water pump to oil cooler bore, not technically a 'core' plug).
I knocked in new core plugs with a bit of Loctite 638, which is a strong retaining compound with good filling/sealing properties. There seem no end of opinions on what to use on them online, so I used what I had to hand. Looking good with the new block paint.
EO
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15B-T engine build 2
A few small bits to add to the block after painting.
The two 8 mm dowel pins which locate the transmission on the engine must have gone with the slushbox when it was removed, so I tapped in two new ones. I then test fitted the rear end plate to make sure they were correct.
This is a one-way valve which is located in the LH side of the engine. It screws into the longitudinal oil gallery where there is a T junction with a gallery coming across the block from the oil filter bracket. The gallery feeds the piston oil nozzles which squirt oil up under the piston to cool it. I would imagine the gallery also feeds the crankshaft bearings, otherwise I don't see the need for a non-return valve. I only took the thing out to paint the block and, I suppose, to check it was not blocked. The new copper washer came with my genuine engine gasket kit.
Fitted into the block.
On the RH longitudinal oil gallery, there are four external ports (and the main ports going to the oil cooler and oil filter). Three of these get plugged, the second back from the the front of the engine gets the oil pressure sender. I've not been able to test this and I can't remember if the oil pressure gauge worked, but I'm giving it the benefit of the doubt. New ones are still available thankfully, in case it is defective.
Done. This pressure sender is the original 12 V unit from the BJ60. The Mega Cruiser came with a 24 V switch for an idiot light; no oil pressure gauge (or tachometer) for the military.
EO
A few small bits to add to the block after painting.
The two 8 mm dowel pins which locate the transmission on the engine must have gone with the slushbox when it was removed, so I tapped in two new ones. I then test fitted the rear end plate to make sure they were correct.
This is a one-way valve which is located in the LH side of the engine. It screws into the longitudinal oil gallery where there is a T junction with a gallery coming across the block from the oil filter bracket. The gallery feeds the piston oil nozzles which squirt oil up under the piston to cool it. I would imagine the gallery also feeds the crankshaft bearings, otherwise I don't see the need for a non-return valve. I only took the thing out to paint the block and, I suppose, to check it was not blocked. The new copper washer came with my genuine engine gasket kit.
Fitted into the block.
On the RH longitudinal oil gallery, there are four external ports (and the main ports going to the oil cooler and oil filter). Three of these get plugged, the second back from the the front of the engine gets the oil pressure sender. I've not been able to test this and I can't remember if the oil pressure gauge worked, but I'm giving it the benefit of the doubt. New ones are still available thankfully, in case it is defective.
Done. This pressure sender is the original 12 V unit from the BJ60. The Mega Cruiser came with a 24 V switch for an idiot light; no oil pressure gauge (or tachometer) for the military.
EO
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45 A original alternator
A quick aside. Earlier I described how I took a Toyota Tacoma alternator and combined it with parts from the HZJ80 alternator that came with the BJ60 and a new pulley from a diesel shop in Germany. This made a 60 A alternator effectively identical to a 60 A alternator supplied with certain BJ70s and BJ73s with the 3BII engine. While I was pleased with that result (which remains to be tested...), I have long wondered what the original alternator, 27060-58070, looked like. Also, I still have the original alternator pulley (which was not correct for the 60 A alternator) and would really like to see it attached to a usable alternator.
With a bit of digging I found there was a similar alternator, 27060-72111. It was identical to the original BJ60 alternator apart fom the pulley. I found one for sale on the Japanese part site Be Forward. This is their picture:
After a bit of consideration, I decided to order it. I also got a spare alternator for my Hilux Surf. I have to say, for a Japanese company I was pretty shocked at how slow and incompetent they were (they were unable to find either of the items I had paid for, luckily they had more than one of each of them. The original Hiace alternator I ordered is now back up for sale...), but when they arrived I was very happy. In my experience used alternators are corroded rebuildable cores in the UK, total junk full of aftermarket parts in SE Asia, and fairly serviceable in the USA. The two alternators I received were used but in near perfect condition. I pulled the back off the Hiace alternator to check the brushes and feel the bearigns without the brushes dragging and it was almost like new inside. No need to touch anything. Pretty impressive considering it is a 1992 vintage.
So I just needed to buzz off the Y engine rib belt pulley...
...and buzz on the original BJ60 3BII pulley 27411-58060.
It has the all important machined rear face of the upper adjuster bolt tab.
It's visibly a lot smaller than the 60 A alternator, not sure which one I'll put on the engine intially. 45 A is going to be barely enough to charge the battery with the headlights and fan motor on!
EO
A quick aside. Earlier I described how I took a Toyota Tacoma alternator and combined it with parts from the HZJ80 alternator that came with the BJ60 and a new pulley from a diesel shop in Germany. This made a 60 A alternator effectively identical to a 60 A alternator supplied with certain BJ70s and BJ73s with the 3BII engine. While I was pleased with that result (which remains to be tested...), I have long wondered what the original alternator, 27060-58070, looked like. Also, I still have the original alternator pulley (which was not correct for the 60 A alternator) and would really like to see it attached to a usable alternator.
With a bit of digging I found there was a similar alternator, 27060-72111. It was identical to the original BJ60 alternator apart fom the pulley. I found one for sale on the Japanese part site Be Forward. This is their picture:
After a bit of consideration, I decided to order it. I also got a spare alternator for my Hilux Surf. I have to say, for a Japanese company I was pretty shocked at how slow and incompetent they were (they were unable to find either of the items I had paid for, luckily they had more than one of each of them. The original Hiace alternator I ordered is now back up for sale...), but when they arrived I was very happy. In my experience used alternators are corroded rebuildable cores in the UK, total junk full of aftermarket parts in SE Asia, and fairly serviceable in the USA. The two alternators I received were used but in near perfect condition. I pulled the back off the Hiace alternator to check the brushes and feel the bearigns without the brushes dragging and it was almost like new inside. No need to touch anything. Pretty impressive considering it is a 1992 vintage.
So I just needed to buzz off the Y engine rib belt pulley...
...and buzz on the original BJ60 3BII pulley 27411-58060.
It has the all important machined rear face of the upper adjuster bolt tab.
It's visibly a lot smaller than the 60 A alternator, not sure which one I'll put on the engine intially. 45 A is going to be barely enough to charge the battery with the headlights and fan motor on!
EO
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15B-T engine build 3
In preparation for reinstalling the camshaft, it's time to put the roller lifters back in the block. Where the old B engines had a pushrod inspection gallery to do this (for the solid lifters), the later style B engines use two sets of bolts. The small 6 mm bolt acts as a limiter for upward lifter travel; the 10 mm bolt has a pin which goes into a groove in the lifter to keep it in position.
The small bolts go in first, with a new crush washer.
You can see the pins sticking through the block. These will catch the lifters with the engine inverted, and stop them sinking down onto the head gasket.
Lifters installed.
Now the larger bolts can go in. I won't torque any of them until the camshaft is in and I can confirm the lifters are all correctly moving.
EO
In preparation for reinstalling the camshaft, it's time to put the roller lifters back in the block. Where the old B engines had a pushrod inspection gallery to do this (for the solid lifters), the later style B engines use two sets of bolts. The small 6 mm bolt acts as a limiter for upward lifter travel; the 10 mm bolt has a pin which goes into a groove in the lifter to keep it in position.
The small bolts go in first, with a new crush washer.
You can see the pins sticking through the block. These will catch the lifters with the engine inverted, and stop them sinking down onto the head gasket.
Lifters installed.
Now the larger bolts can go in. I won't torque any of them until the camshaft is in and I can confirm the lifters are all correctly moving.
EO
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15B-T engine build 4
Lifting the engine with the crane and removing the engine stand bracket, the back of the engine gets painted to stop it rusting again.
New rear crankshaft seal retainer gasket.
The retainer goes on with some grease on the seal and crankshaft. The engine can now go back in the stand.
New rear timing cover gasket.
Then the rear timing cover can go on.
EO
Lifting the engine with the crane and removing the engine stand bracket, the back of the engine gets painted to stop it rusting again.
New rear crankshaft seal retainer gasket.
The retainer goes on with some grease on the seal and crankshaft. The engine can now go back in the stand.
New rear timing cover gasket.
Then the rear timing cover can go on.
EO
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15B-T engine build 5
Hoping to make installation easier, I put the crankshaft front drive gear in the oven.
Then knocked it onto the crank. I think I got it knocked hard against the oil pump drive spline, if not the huge torque on the crankshaft pulley bolt should shift it into place.
Next, the camshaft goes in. It turns very nicely on the new bearings.
This the timing idler gear shaft. It has an oil pipe attached which takes oil to the vacuum pump and squirts it up onto the injection pump drive gear.
The shaft pushes onto a large oil gallery port on the front of the block.
EO
Hoping to make installation easier, I put the crankshaft front drive gear in the oven.
Then knocked it onto the crank. I think I got it knocked hard against the oil pump drive spline, if not the huge torque on the crankshaft pulley bolt should shift it into place.
Next, the camshaft goes in. It turns very nicely on the new bearings.
This the timing idler gear shaft. It has an oil pipe attached which takes oil to the vacuum pump and squirts it up onto the injection pump drive gear.
The shaft pushes onto a large oil gallery port on the front of the block.
EO
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15B-T engine build 6
Idler gear goes on the shaft.
Timing on this engine is very straightforward with no belt or chain. '1' and 1' match up on the crankshaft gear and idler gear.
'2' and '2' line up on the camshaft gear and idler gear.
Then the front retainer plate can be bolted on the idler gear. I've also put the injection pump on temporarily for the next step.
Next the vacuum pump will be added with two new O-rings.
EO
Idler gear goes on the shaft.
Timing on this engine is very straightforward with no belt or chain. '1' and 1' match up on the crankshaft gear and idler gear.
'2' and '2' line up on the camshaft gear and idler gear.
Then the front retainer plate can be bolted on the idler gear. I've also put the injection pump on temporarily for the next step.
Next the vacuum pump will be added with two new O-rings.
EO
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15B-T engine build 7
Getting the injection pump drive gear on is very tricky at TDC as it's necessary to work against the considerable spring pressure in the pump. But if the engine is backed off TDC a bit, the drive gear can be installed easily. The vacuum pump drive gear can be seen at the bottom right.
'0' and '0' need to line up on the injection pump gear and idler gear.
Front timing cover and some of the attaching bolts with new gasket. This is the original cover from the 3BII which came with the car. The 15B-T cover has been machined and tapped to accept the front-mounted power steering pump, which I have chosen not to use. I will of course keep the 15B-T front cover in case I change my mind or ever want to run the hydraulic pump for another application.
With the new gasket on, it's the last glimpse of the timing gears.
Then on with the front cover. I'm only installing these eight bolts now, the others bolt on various brackets.
EO
Getting the injection pump drive gear on is very tricky at TDC as it's necessary to work against the considerable spring pressure in the pump. But if the engine is backed off TDC a bit, the drive gear can be installed easily. The vacuum pump drive gear can be seen at the bottom right.
'0' and '0' need to line up on the injection pump gear and idler gear.
Front timing cover and some of the attaching bolts with new gasket. This is the original cover from the 3BII which came with the car. The 15B-T cover has been machined and tapped to accept the front-mounted power steering pump, which I have chosen not to use. I will of course keep the 15B-T front cover in case I change my mind or ever want to run the hydraulic pump for another application.
With the new gasket on, it's the last glimpse of the timing gears.
Then on with the front cover. I'm only installing these eight bolts now, the others bolt on various brackets.
EO
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15B-T engine build 8
Keen to get all the oil passage sealed up, the oil cooler and filter bracket are next.
New gasket.
Oil cooler and cover. I've not fully torques two of the top row of bolts as there will later be a turbocharger stay bracket going on.
Oil filter bracket.
Done.
EO
Keen to get all the oil passage sealed up, the oil cooler and filter bracket are next.
New gasket.
Oil cooler and cover. I've not fully torques two of the top row of bolts as there will later be a turbocharger stay bracket going on.
Oil filter bracket.
Done.
EO
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15B-T engine build 9
Now for the front accessory/idler brackets. This is the power steering idler pulley bracket from the BJ60 3BII, which was also used on earlier 3B engines in the Land Cruiser. All parts of this are NLA, but I put a new bearing in the idler pulley (covered much earlier in this thread).
Now perhaps the most difficult-to-find part for a Land Cruiser 1988+ B engine install - the A/C compressor bracket. The older pre 1988 3B A/C compressor brackets are hard to find but come up occasionally. The 3BII bracket, 88431-60090, is virtually impossible to find as they were only fitted to selected BJ60, 70, 73 and 75 models from 08/1988 to 12/1989. They fit the Denso 10PA15 type compressor which was current in the mid-to-late 1980s.
In non-Land Cruiser applications there are many different A/C compressor brackets for the 14B/3BII in the Dyna and Coaster, but the majority of these are for much larger A/C compressors which I do not want. There are however two brackets which fit a Denso 10P17 type pump, which were used in some Toyota Dynas from the late 1980s onwards. I found the latter type of these brackets in Russia. From a side view, you can see how it mounts the slightly longer 10PA17 compressor slightly further back on the bracket.
Top is the Land Cruiser 3BII bracket; bottom is the Dyna 14B bracket.
From the front, there is a clear difference. While it still fits the front timing cover, it requires a smaller A/C idler pulley bracket. I believe there is a Dyna A/C compressor bracket for the 10PA17 compressor which still uses the larger Land Cruiser type A/C idler pulley bracket, but I have yet to get my hands on one.
The Land Cruiser 3BII bracket with mounting hardware. Some of the botls are still available, others are just as hard to find as the bracket. My BJ60 did not come with factory A/C and I was extremely lucky to get this bracket from a friend who was selling off a 1989 BJ60 with factory A/C. I swapped it for an old-type 3B compressor bracket which went with the car (it will fit the 3BII, but two holes in the timing cover don't line up).
Looking good.
EO
Now for the front accessory/idler brackets. This is the power steering idler pulley bracket from the BJ60 3BII, which was also used on earlier 3B engines in the Land Cruiser. All parts of this are NLA, but I put a new bearing in the idler pulley (covered much earlier in this thread).
Now perhaps the most difficult-to-find part for a Land Cruiser 1988+ B engine install - the A/C compressor bracket. The older pre 1988 3B A/C compressor brackets are hard to find but come up occasionally. The 3BII bracket, 88431-60090, is virtually impossible to find as they were only fitted to selected BJ60, 70, 73 and 75 models from 08/1988 to 12/1989. They fit the Denso 10PA15 type compressor which was current in the mid-to-late 1980s.
In non-Land Cruiser applications there are many different A/C compressor brackets for the 14B/3BII in the Dyna and Coaster, but the majority of these are for much larger A/C compressors which I do not want. There are however two brackets which fit a Denso 10P17 type pump, which were used in some Toyota Dynas from the late 1980s onwards. I found the latter type of these brackets in Russia. From a side view, you can see how it mounts the slightly longer 10PA17 compressor slightly further back on the bracket.
Top is the Land Cruiser 3BII bracket; bottom is the Dyna 14B bracket.
From the front, there is a clear difference. While it still fits the front timing cover, it requires a smaller A/C idler pulley bracket. I believe there is a Dyna A/C compressor bracket for the 10PA17 compressor which still uses the larger Land Cruiser type A/C idler pulley bracket, but I have yet to get my hands on one.
The Land Cruiser 3BII bracket with mounting hardware. Some of the botls are still available, others are just as hard to find as the bracket. My BJ60 did not come with factory A/C and I was extremely lucky to get this bracket from a friend who was selling off a 1989 BJ60 with factory A/C. I swapped it for an old-type 3B compressor bracket which went with the car (it will fit the 3BII, but two holes in the timing cover don't line up).
Looking good.
EO
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