Last Minute Check Before Removing Distributor

[4Cruisers]

Well, I'm finally finishing an ignition system upgrade on my '76 FJ40, and am down to the nitty-gritty. I'm replacing the vacuum retard distributor with an FJ60 vacuum advance distributor. I've got the pushrod cover popped free (easier than I thought ) but I can't remove it until I pull the distributor. I've carefully made note of where the rotor is pointing, including a mark and a photo. I believe I can pull the old distributor and install the FJ60 distributor so its rotor is pointing to the same spot as the old. One question though - I thought I've read that the FJ60 distributors rotate a little more (or less?) than the older FJ40 distributors as they're lowered into position, but I may be mistaken. If so, the oil pump slot may not be in the correct location when the rotor is lined up. Am I wrong? Should I just go ahead and try it?

 

[kruisinkid]

rotate engine til you are at TDC so there is no guessing when you put it back together. that way at worst would only be 1 tooth off.

 

[Pin_Head]

The thing to notice is where the rotor is pointing after you pull it straight up. The rotor rotates as the gears mesh.

 

[4Cruisers]

So far the distributor swap went extremely well. I haven't had the chance to try and start the FJ40 up yet because of a major radiator leak, but I'm optimistic. The orientation of the rotor and the tip of the shaft that engages the oil pump slot are the same for the FJ40 and the FJ60. The FJ60 distributor went in easily and was fully seated, with the rotor pointing to the same spot as the FJ40 distributor before I pulled it. So it should start right up and be ready to set the timing more precisely. Tomorrow I'm dropping off my radiator at the same Santa Fe radiator shop I've used off and on for years, so I should be good to go in a few days.

 

[Pin_Head]

It is the orientation of the rotor with respect to the distributor body that is important, but don't worry. As long as the oil pump is fully engaged, it can be made to run properly in any orientation.

 

[4Cruisers]

Quick question on my ignition upgrade - I installed the FJ60 coil and igniter in the same location as the FJ40 hardware and figured out and reconnected all of the wiring except for the two wires to the distributor. The wires are about 6 inches too short. Is there anything special about these wires, or can I simply splice in more wire of the same gauge using crimped connections covered with heat shrink tubing?

 

[4Cruisers]

While waiting for the refurbished radiator to dry I got back to the distributor wiring. I went down to my basement to do some connector harvesting and hit pay dirt right away. Down on the bottom shelf of one of my benches was the charcoal canister from my '86 FJ60, which is getting the canister from my '89 FJ62 donor vehicle along with the 3FE. The wiring connector (for the vacuum valve?) is the same as on the FJ60 distributor, and I have at least two complete FJ60 wire harnesses down in the basement. The two wires were not connected to the valve under the boot, and the ends were taped up, I guess it was part of a desmog by the PO. I'll go harvest one of the corresponding connectors and fabricate a short jumper to connect the coil/igniter to the distributor. The wires look like normal wires, so I believe it will work.

 

[curtislow]

Quick question on my ignition upgrade - I installed the FJ60 coil and igniter in the same location as the FJ40 hardware and figured out and reconnected all of the wiring except for the two wires to the distributor. The wires are about 6 inches too short. Is there anything special about these wires, or can I simply splice in more wire of the same gauge using crimped connections covered with heat shrink tubing?

I've always been kinda a hack when doing wiring,but after spending time on this forum I now try to take the time to solder all my connections with heat shrink protection.Just my 2 cents.

 

[4Cruisers]

Well, it turns out I have three complete FJ60 main wiring harnesses, from an '83, an '84, and an '86. The '83 has at least ten of the connectors, six just from the front lighting wiring. Here's the jumper I fabricated: