Landcruiser starts then stalls ? Help! (4 Viewers)

[1fast lorinser]

Hey everyone,
I have a 1997 Landcruiser with about 270,000 miles.
Iv done alot of research and used the "search" tool for weeks but nothing has helped me out yet. After a couple of hundred bucks down the drain, im still stuck with the same issue.
The truck starts no problems, or hiccups and no check engine light, and runs perfectly smooth for a whole 5-7 seconds and then stalls out. A local mechanic took a look and said it was the relay and a couple of fuses and the fuel filter, so he went ahead and replaced those, same issue. I took the truck back because I had no longer any confidence in him. I also replaced the fuel pump thinking it wasn't getting enough fuel pressure and that didn't help. My battery is brand new and upgraded for heavier demand. I then brought a friend to check it out in my garage and we went through a couple of tests and narrowed it down to a electrical problem and discovered that when we unplugging the 3 pin connector that plugs into the alternator the truck stays running no problems or issues, but as soon as U plug it in it the truck dies out and stalls. Now we started thinking the alternator failed due to over drawn power from the huge sound system I have installed (I love my music) .
So I went ahead and spent some extra $$$ to get an upgraded high output alternator to handle the sound system and the HIDS and all the LEDS that are running throughout the truck. Now I'm still stuck in the same exact position I started in. Truck starts and runs for 5-7 seconds then dies out unless I unplug the 3 pin connector from the alternator. If anyone can please help me out or maybe in the nyc area that can help me out.

 

[Reelitchy]

Just off the top, check your fuel pump resistor and make sure it's not open.

 

[elhombre]

Most of the time when the engine stops running, a person will need to determine if it is a fuel problem or a spark/electrical problem. Knowing which system of the truck usually helps a bunch in trouble shooting, but you maybe can by-pass that step first and go straight to the electrical problem. From your own admittance, you have added a bunch of electrical stuff to the truck. Did you install a fancy alarm system that cuts power to the truck somehow? If not, then I would remove all the extra power cords off of the battery that have been added on, and see if you get it to run right, then narrow it down to one of those.

Kinda like when people have problems with their diesel trucks that have a power chip in it. You have to return the truck to as close as OE so you can figure out what is the problem without interference from "modifications".

Did you have anyone check the old alternator on a test machine before you bought a new one? Wondering if the problem fried the old one and now has also fried the new one. Or, as you figured where I'm going, the old one was fine and the problem is somewhere else.

Electrical issues SUCK.

 

[BILT4ME]

It appears to be common on trucks that have a custom stereo installed that they have problems running or dying. I am not an electron chaser, but there is something about alarms, radios, and the ignition circuit.

Do some more searches here for alarm / stereo / no start.

That may lead you in the right direction.

 

[bicycleagent003]

I had the immediate dying engine once when I didn't plug my MAF sensor plug back in all the way after doing some PM. It might not be the problem you're having, I just thought I'd throw that out there. Good luck.

 

[1fast lorinser]

Checked my MAF, and no fancy alarm system, just the good old original toyota alarm system that came with the car. I did not have the alternator checked due to my neglegence and being almost 100% it was my alternator.
when I get home this evening after work I will start disconnecting everything aftermarket that was installed to try and narrow down this issue.
Iv been reading day and night allover and even on different forums but nothing as of yet. I'll keep you guys posted.
Really appreciate the tips and if you guys have any other suggestions or ideas just give me a shout. Thanks once again

 

[Luke Young]

Sounds like an immbolizer on some of these new car. Does the dash flash like crazy for the 5 seconds it is running?

 

[BILT4ME]

Any CEL codes?

 

[1fast lorinser]

No check engine lights, and no flashing lights on the dash and the 97's don't have immobilizers.

 

[1fast lorinser]

Only thing I figured out like I said earlier is when I pull the 3pin connector that's going to the alternator, the truck then runs fine no issues or hiccups or check engine mights or anything but as soon as I reconnect the connector it shuts off right away.

 

[BILT4ME]

I would guess that there is a short in one of those wires. I may hazard a guess that a wire goes into the harness and runs behind the engine past the EGR and you may have a melted wiring harness by the EGR that it just happens to be the alternator wiring that is affected at this time.

Trace each wire through the harness or the EWD in the FSM to see where it might be having a problem.

Good Luck!

 

[FZJ80 in KC]

Check out this thread:

http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forums/1gen-tundra/273882-help-toyota-tundra-2005-dc-4x4-2/

He had same issues and finally found that a wire was slightly pulled out of the socket on the fuel pump resistor.

"OK finally found it just by chance....! I was actually testing the ohms on some of the wires on the engine and notice there was a shiny spot on a plug on the passenger innerfender... I shined the flash light down to see the plug was pulled out just enuff to NOT make a connections, that is, the wire was slightly pulled out of the socket on the fuel pump resistor! OMG runs perfect now, thanks for all the help guys i dont think i would have ever found it if I hadent have just stumbled on it looking for other things that could have been wrong... "

 

[toyotaspeed90]

My guess is that it's fuel pump/AFM based..... (but that isn't to mean there's a problem with those).

Toyota AFM systems - there is a fuel pump prime from the Circuit Opening Relay when the key is set to "Start" and after that the AFM sends a signal to the Circuit Opening Relay, which runs the Fuel Pump. This is Toyota's safety system - so that if an accident happens and the engine is immobilized, the engine will shut off as the AFM will close, even when the key is set to "On".

5-7 seconds of running sounds like it's just enough fuel to keep it going after that initial fuel pump run/prime, and then when the AFM. You can simply test this - set your key to 'On' then push the flapper door open with your finger, fuel pump should kick on.

**edit**
last post says you found it, but I guess the other info still applies.... the reason it was running was because the fuel pump 'on' circuit wasn't keeping the pump running. Maybe someone will find this useful...

 

[FZJ80 in KC]

I may have confused the post a little. That was a quote from the link for the guy that solved an identical problem.

 

[1fast lorinser]

Ok guys, I've been running diagnostics. I narrowed down the wire that's causing the LC to shut down. I started the truck and connected them 1 by 1 and turns out there's a black and blue wire that makes the truck stall out. I also learned that the fuel pump relay clicks as soon as I connect that blue and black wire. So can anyone give me an idea what that wire specifically does or where it goes or a next step to start tracing this down. Thanks

 

[1fast lorinser]

Also just for more information I only have 3 wires coming out of the alternator which consists of 1 Blk wire and 1 blue and yellow wire and 1 blue and black wire

 

[stkybgr]

The Black and Blue wire that you are connecting and disconnecting, where are you doing that at?

 

[WarWagon]

Fuel pump issue or fuel sock is my guess. I had a similar issue with a '95 a year and a half ago and it was the fuel pump.

 

[stkybgr]

Reelitchy and FZJ80 in KC looks to be on the right track if you ask me. Fuel pump relay has a fuel pump resistor in the circuit. A full 14v at start up and when the demand is there, then at idle the resistor is the now in the circuit and the volts drop to about 12. If the fuel pump resistor is "open" then the pump will not run.

 

[1fast lorinser]

Hey everyone, after reading and understanding everyone's tips and advice I finally narrowed it down to the fuel pump resistor that's located on the passenger side fender on my 97. There was no wire melted or disconnected, just a faulty part. I took it out and inspected the leads going into the resistor and it looked a bit rusty with some stains. So I went ahead and disconnected it completely and just put a jumper wire to both leads and closed the circuit and wallah, the Landcruiser Dana's smooth and quiet as she did from day 1 . Hopefully this can help someone in the future that's stumbled upon the same issue and doesn't dump money into there land cruisers.
A special thanks to fzj80 in KC and toyotaspeed90 for the links and tips, u guys really helped me narrow it down to what and why I was having these issues. Once again thanks everyone.