Land Cruiser Prado 90 RZ Import & Refresh (and maybe build...) (3 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

It looks like it is possible from this diagram.
610016A.png
 
Re: roof rack. I was thinking about removing the factory rack and replacing with Yakima tracks and plus nuts. Just an idea.
Have you seen that done elsewhere? Will the Yakima tracks handle being curved?
 
Have you seen that done elsewhere? Will the Yakima tracks handle being curved?
It's what Yakima recommends for permanent track installs. I haven't seen it done yet, but I'm willing to try it. I feel pretty confident that any curvature to that section of the roof is minimal enough for the feet to sit securely.
I've installed them on my fiberglass canopy and a pop-up tent trailer.
 
I've put rails/tracks on a few different vehicles over the years and had zero issues. It's a really good option if you are careful with the install. I used a very good quality nutsert. Some tracks come with rivets, which are load rated but I felt a nutsert was more secure.

Spreads the load, lowers COG. Win/win imho..
 
Last edited:
It's what Yakima recommends for permanent track installs. I haven't seen it done yet, but I'm willing to try it. I feel pretty confident that any curvature to that section of the roof is minimal enough for the feet to sit securely.
I've installed them on my fiberglass canopy and a pop-up tent trailer.

I've put rails/tracks on a few different vehicles over the years and had zero issues. It's a really good option if you are careful with the install. I used a very good quality nutsert. Some tracks come with rivets, which are load rated but I felt a nutsert was more secure.

Spreads the load, lowers COG. Win/win imho..

Great feedback… never would have thought of this approach without you guys!

Won’t get it installed till right at the end of the year, but I found a Frontrunner platform locally that a guy had taken off his camper shell - so it came with six legs for tracks. Ordered a set of 60” Thule tracks. Intending to pull the factory side rails, cut the tracks to the same length and install the whole shebang after Christmas. I’m hoping I can drill the Thule tracks to line up with the captive nuts from the side rails, and potentially throw in a couple of rivnuts in between the three mount points.

I may end up having to trim the platform rack.. the width is right but it’s a few inches longer than the side rails (56” for the side rails, 61.5” for the rack). We’ll see how the overhang works once it’s in place and go from there.
 
I made circles of silicone around each hole, just for extra water protection. Blue loctite on rivnuts.

There are also well nuts, which were an option I found afterwards. Maybe something else to consider?
 
Oh... One other thing... On both the pajeros I fitted tracks to, the roof had a slight sweep down as it went forward. I added a very subtle curvature over my knee before install, to lessen the pull on the rivnuts. Went down the roofline perfectly...
 
I made circles of silicone around each hole, just for extra water protection. Blue loctite on rivnuts.

There are also well nuts, which were an option I found afterwards. Maybe something else to consider?
Awesome, thank you. I'l give this a shot when we get back from Christmas trip... should be fun.
 
The bull bar and winch went in Monday night... what I'd read was a couple hour job was more like 5 hours for me. Probably would have been faster if I weren't solo and hadn't got stuck on the headlights for at least an hour. As best I can tell, some of the 90s have traditional H4 wiring for the headlights, and some have the older Toyota style that *look* like H4 but are switched ground with a single hot, vs. the standard H4 arrangement of single ground and two switched hots. It took an embarrassingly long time with a voltmeter and bench testing my headlights to figure out that there wasn't a problem with the Philips I bought. The good news is that this problem has been solved before, and I can get a pre-made harness with a couple of relays that's plug-and-play.

Anyway, back to regularly scheduled programming... the only truly hard part of the job was hoisting and aligning the bumper. Well, that and the captive nuts on the winch. Otherwise, it was pretty plug-and-play.

View attachment 3011980View attachment 3011982
View attachment 3011983
Do you still have your OEM Bull bar laying around?
 
Making some progress over here. Finally found time this weekend to knock down the Front Runner platform install. We had wanted to do the Gamiviti setup, and while I’m sure it’s worth the money in the long run, it’s just so darn expensive. Most of the other off the shelf options are for the LWB Prado, not the SWB, so those are out. Front Runner has a setup for the SWB, but it’s too tall to clear my garage door opening- they’ve specced the rain gutter feet tall enough to clear the stock roof rack rails.

Found a guy locally that was selling a platform he’d taken off of his truck cap, and the dimensions seemed about right for the SWB Prado. Most importantly, it was cheap! I found a set of Thule tracks (thanks for the tip, @ekim113 and @JDM Journeys ) on Amazon Warehouse for $115, bringing the total to $395.

You were right, @javelinadave - the stock roof rack rails were held on by 5 10mm bolts underneath plastic covers. Popped the covers off with a trim tool, pulled the bolts and the rails popped right off.

2E6B9018-E05F-4BB7-A4B2-5010E382BE8F.jpeg


CD2FD620-1956-4153-B035-22C058A8BE7C.jpeg


Used rivnuts to attach the Thule tracks to the roof. Thule calls for a bolt in every other hole, but we went belt and suspenders and did every hole - that’s 12 per side. I used marine sealant on each hole, and said a quiet prayer against water intrusion.

0A5DF3FD-0FC2-4A50-B422-EEA8FA4874A2.jpeg


The platform ended up fitting perfectly. It’s the 49” X 54” Slimline II, and I used the 60” Thule tracks.

A2DC3750-E78E-4A0E-8786-92D634815A8E.jpeg


875A9250-1CB5-4593-AE9A-E0A34FC7CA96.jpeg


We need to get the fit dialed in perfectly, and mount the batwing awning and a couple of pod lights.
 
Awning mounted… Getting the rig ready for warm weather. Actually here in NC it’s pretty darn warm already, but I’m going by the calendar, not the thermometer. My patient and loving wife got me an awning for Christmas - I wanted a freestanding 270 that wouldn’t break the bank and was reasonably short to fit on my shorty, so we went with the Ironman Deltawing.

Like everything else topside on this project, the #1 priority is making sure it clears the garage door opening. I mounted the awning with the brackets inverted - we’re assuming that the design spec calls for tension and compression in both directions to account for wind gust, so the mount will serve in either orientation. Plus the install guide doesn’t specify which way to mount it, and that’s good enough for me. With the mount flipped, it rides almost exactly flush with the platform rack. I used some old mild steel leftovers and cut a 3/8” spacer that drops the brackets down exactly where I wanted them.

D1CD5A6F-ACD3-4AAF-9F0B-29513788B073.jpeg


The awning itself went on pretty easily. The lower front bolt was a bit fiddly to get to, but we got it done.

0AD03107-94B6-4A12-9818-A22A6F64D687.jpeg


With the barn door open and the awning extended, it’s a pretty nice place to be.

20899E79-CF85-472B-A7CD-CFF61735FE4F.jpeg


8882D1E0-F3F9-4A89-97C7-588DA36AEE40.jpeg


Summer here we come!
 
Last edited:
When we stop for lunch at this year‘s 70 Series Meet & Greet I’ll know where to go for shade. 😁
 
Thanks, @buggyboy7! I was hoping to skip waiting on parts from Dubai - I can't find the gaskets here. But you're right, it's not worth skipping it. I'll get them ordered today. Thanks also for the tip on the intercooler... I'll order a replacement as well.
Did you find inter cooler couplings in the states?
 
Yessir… the connector is already there, plug it in and the ECU acts like it’s been waiting for it. I’ve been led to believe that all the diesel 90s are pre-wired for the Idle Up switch from the factory, but have no way to confirm.

I have no idea what those knockouts are for…I was planning to 3-d print a clip for my CB mic to go there, but haven’t gotten that far yet.
Do you happen to have a photo of the connector for the Idle up switch? I'm looking at doing a similar thing with my KZJ95. When cross referencing the electrical diagrams in the manual, it points toward 2 different black connectors with 2 different pin configurations for the idle up switch. I did a quick look under my dashboard for the connector, and this is the only black connector I could find that could match the diagram on the manual.

Connector 1.png
Connector 2.png
IMG_3365.JPG
IMG_3366.JPG
IMG_3367.JPG
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom