It looks like it is possible from this diagram.
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Have you seen that done elsewhere? Will the Yakima tracks handle being curved?Re: roof rack. I was thinking about removing the factory rack and replacing with Yakima tracks and plus nuts. Just an idea.
It's what Yakima recommends for permanent track installs. I haven't seen it done yet, but I'm willing to try it. I feel pretty confident that any curvature to that section of the roof is minimal enough for the feet to sit securely.Have you seen that done elsewhere? Will the Yakima tracks handle being curved?
It's what Yakima recommends for permanent track installs. I haven't seen it done yet, but I'm willing to try it. I feel pretty confident that any curvature to that section of the roof is minimal enough for the feet to sit securely.
I've installed them on my fiberglass canopy and a pop-up tent trailer.
I've put rails/tracks on a few different vehicles over the years and had zero issues. It's a really good option if you are careful with the install. I used a very good quality nutsert. Some tracks come with rivets, which are load rated but I felt a nutsert was more secure.
Spreads the load, lowers COG. Win/win imho..
Awesome, thank you. I'l give this a shot when we get back from Christmas trip... should be fun.I made circles of silicone around each hole, just for extra water protection. Blue loctite on rivnuts.
There are also well nuts, which were an option I found afterwards. Maybe something else to consider?
Do you still have your OEM Bull bar laying around?The bull bar and winch went in Monday night... what I'd read was a couple hour job was more like 5 hours for me. Probably would have been faster if I weren't solo and hadn't got stuck on the headlights for at least an hour. As best I can tell, some of the 90s have traditional H4 wiring for the headlights, and some have the older Toyota style that *look* like H4 but are switched ground with a single hot, vs. the standard H4 arrangement of single ground and two switched hots. It took an embarrassingly long time with a voltmeter and bench testing my headlights to figure out that there wasn't a problem with the Philips I bought. The good news is that this problem has been solved before, and I can get a pre-made harness with a couple of relays that's plug-and-play.
Anyway, back to regularly scheduled programming... the only truly hard part of the job was hoisting and aligning the bumper. Well, that and the captive nuts on the winch. Otherwise, it was pretty plug-and-play.
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No, it was in pretty rough shape. It’s long gone.Do you still have your OEM Bull bar laying around?
Did you find inter cooler couplings in the states?Thanks, @buggyboy7! I was hoping to skip waiting on parts from Dubai - I can't find the gaskets here. But you're right, it's not worth skipping it. I'll get them ordered today. Thanks also for the tip on the intercooler... I'll order a replacement as well.
No... I get OEM's from Partsouq.comDid you find inter cooler couplings in the states?
Do you happen to have a photo of the connector for the Idle up switch? I'm looking at doing a similar thing with my KZJ95. When cross referencing the electrical diagrams in the manual, it points toward 2 different black connectors with 2 different pin configurations for the idle up switch. I did a quick look under my dashboard for the connector, and this is the only black connector I could find that could match the diagram on the manual.Yessir… the connector is already there, plug it in and the ECU acts like it’s been waiting for it. I’ve been led to believe that all the diesel 90s are pre-wired for the Idle Up switch from the factory, but have no way to confirm.
I have no idea what those knockouts are for…I was planning to 3-d print a clip for my CB mic to go there, but haven’t gotten that far yet.