La8enta

[OG 91 LC]

Not sure if you guys saw my post on 80s Tech. Well.......... Be careful for what you ask for. After cruising over to Best Buy for my stereo install my '96 came down again with some electrical issues.
Installer at Best Buy snipped a wire behind the fuse box inside the cabin. It's the wire leading to a 10 amp fuse labeled (gauge).

Cutting that wire made certain items not work.

1- AC.

2 opened vents/ air coming in from outside.

3- lights around AC selection do not illuminate.

4- dome lights

5- clock

6- if I turn on my overhead dome light it causes some static at the speakers and causes radio to fail.

I want my truck to work properly so I can enjoy it!!!

Any of you SoCal 80 fellers good with electrical work?????? I need your help. I'm willing to drive where eves. Supply some food/drinks.

 

[OG 91 LC]

Btw. Before I left Best Buy I attempted to turn on my overhead dome light. It caused my stereo to fail. I turned around. We reconnected the bare wire back to the fuse box to trouble shoot some items. I left the store with the wire disconnected with concerns that it may cause more issues.

 

[OG 91 LC]

Any of you fellas have a EWD for a '96 LC???

 

[OG 91 LC]

Alrighty. It's been a while since I've posted on my '96. I had an electrical issue with a short and lost some insulation behind fuse box. Scary stuff, but I was able to fix it with some help from fellow mudders and just diving into it. Learned a lot about my truck. Truck is driving............ Well...........you know.................very buttery.

Next item is my rear locker not engaging. CDL in lo and light indicates it's locked. Abs turns off. Rear won't engage, but front engages. Or maybe rear engages and I can't tell. Fronts engage because it gets very tight. Def locked. I have read a few items such as paperclip/figure 8s/slight hammering on actuators to loosen magnets. Can someone help me with this. Suggestions???

Also. I've been wanting to do a Siverado Canyon/Ortega hwy run up to the peak to get my tires dirty and get familiar with local spot and truck handling. Maybe put my front/rear lockers to engage/use. Not familiar with the area.

Any of you fellas up for a local run??? I'm down for another location. Suggestions.
Thanks

 

[Brentbba]

My rear diffs have always taken longer to lock up than the fronts. Could be they just need a lot of exercise. Get her dirty, lock up the rear and do a lot of slow curvy turns to get them to unstick.

 

[OG 91 LC]

Ya. That's what I was wanting to do. Perhaps getting the truck in some rugged terrain and trying out the lockers may do the trick. I have been exercising the lockers near my house at a very large gravel area. Maybe I need to try them more often.

 

[mattafact]

Ya. That's what I was wanting to do. Perhaps getting the truck in some rugged terrain and trying out the lockers may do the trick. I have been exercising the lockers near my house at a very large gravel area. Maybe I need to try them more often.

Doing figure-8s in the dirt helped me get mine to start locking properly.

 

[OG 91 LC]

Hey Matt. Just wondering. When you were doing figure 8s on your truck to engage the lockers you had the indicator lights blinking on the dash until it went solid??? I don't want to destroy anything on the axle. I just don't know if attempting to lock and driving while light is blinking is a good thing.
Thanks.

 

[bmw635]

Doing figure 8 on very loose gravel so it won't bind when locked with solid light. Spray some wd40 on the housing to help it loosen up.

Mine was never used for 15 yrs until I bought it. Had to tap on it and let wd40 sits couple days then it finally locked after couple figure 8.

 

[OG 91 LC]

Thanks Peter. I'll give that a try. I know there is electrical connections down there. Don't want to fry anything.

 

[mattafact]

Hey Matt. Just wondering. When you were doing figure 8s on your truck to engage the lockers you had the indicator lights blinking on the dash until it went solid??? I don't want to destroy anything on the axle. I just don't know if attempting to lock and driving while light is blinking is a good thing.
Thanks.

That's exactly what I did. It's ok to drive it in circles while it blinks.

 

[OG 91 LC]

Good morning gents!!! Well it happened this fine Sunday morning. I'm officially 3Xs locked!!!!!! Thanks for suggestions. Sprayed some wd40 on front and rear locker housing last weekend. Figure 8s this morning. Voila!!!!!

 

[OG 91 LC]

Long 4-day weekend for me. Took the time to completely delete roof rack. I took advantage of the warm weather and sprayed Goof-Off on the adhesive that was holding the rails. That was on Friday. Came back today and was able to remove the adhesive with my fingers. Lots of patience required. Not bad. A few hours work. I hit it with some Meguiar's paint cleaner. I likes!!!!!!



Holes are being filled with silicone on the inside and F.W. Steel at the top. Finish it off with Toyota White paint enamel.

 

[OG 91 LC]

It's time for my truck to get some
new shocks and springs. I'd like to leave it stock in height and go with the OME stock height or even stock Toyota springs with some Bilstein shocks. Something tells me that I should opt for the 1.5-2 lift.

I've read as much as could on lifts and the info is all over the place.

Will I need castor correction plates with a 1.5-2 inch lift?

And is the "death wobble" associated with a 1.5-2 inch lift.
Don't want to scare the Mrs. and the kids.

I will also need help with the install.

Fellas? What do you say? Suggestions? Opinions? Point me in the right direction.

Thanks.

 

[Brentbba]

Al,

Voice of experience talking to you here! When my OEM suspension finally wore out, I first went with Rancho 9000 adjustable shocks. Helped a little, but not a lot. Then replaced the coils with OME stock height. Again, nice feel and an improvement over the worn out coils. Fast forward a little and I just wasn't happy with the stock height and wanted to do just a little more with the truck. Went with the OME 2" coils, shocks and front steering. Kit comes with castor correction bushings. You'll need a press to get the old ones out and new ones in. No death wobble at all. I went heavies front and rear because of all the weight I have on both ends with bumpers, winch, tire carrier, etc. I am extremely happy. Not so much lift that it's harder to get in/out of the truck, but enough to wheel more than forest service roads. Moral of the story and hindsight being 20/20 - I wish I'd have done the 2" in the first place! Cost is the same on the install outside the pressing of the castor bushings. If you are at all on the fence, just DO IT. You will not regret it

 

[JohnGalt]

Al,

Voice of experience talking to you here! ....
...Moral of the story and hindsight being 20/20 - I wish I'd have done the 2" in the first place! Cost is the same on the install outside the pressing of the castor bushings. If you are at all on the fence, just DO IT. You will not regret it

What he said!

 

[OG 91 LC]

Where do you guys think is the best place to buy my lift kit? Least expensive? Local shop that could do the job?

Thanks fellas.

 

[pjskinner]

I am not a fan of using 4wheel parts, but they will price match. I took them slee's ad ( i think it was slee) and they matched it. The whole shebang was picked up three days later. The spring install was "easy" with the assistance of my 100 pound lady friend helping to weigh the axles down while I popped the springs in. The shocks were not too difficult. The steering stabilizer was a huge PITA, and I paid to have the caster correction bushings installed. All in all, I say get 4WP to price match and attempt the majority of the install yourself. It really should take only an afternoon!

 

[Brentbba]

Where do you guys think is the best place to buy my lift kit? Least expensive? Local shop that could do the job?

Thanks fellas.

Talk to Eric out at YotaMasters. Closest great shop. After that, SDTrux down in north San Diego. A little further to go for John down there tho.

 

[OG 91 LC]

Cool. I'll start looking and making calls.

Thanks fellas.