Known Transfer Case Issues? (1 Viewer)

[RSmithUT]

I tried several searches, so here’s a post. Apologies if this has been covered already.

‘09 LX with 143k miles. New to me since last summer (about 126k miles).

Short version is that Lexus dealership saying I need a new transfer case unit. Vehicle was making a noise that I can only describe as similar to the whine of an electric motor. It was difficult to hear unless I was in a quiet-ish place with the windows down like leaving an empty parking garage after working late. Going faster made a louder noise, but still difficult to hear in traffic, etc. Noise seemed to originate from lower in the center of vehicle. No leaks, warning lights, codes, or exterior damage. Center diff. lock was difficult to disengage, but low range and crawl seemed to work fine.

Hopefully this will get resolved as part of extended warranty, but it’s pricey $3800 for the unit plus install ($1200).

Last diff. and transfer case service was at 110k miles and it was performed by dealers at recommended intervals before that (per records with purchase).

I have not seen much of anything related to the transfer case as one of the known issues, the vehicle seems to have been a well-cared for city ride in low rust areas before me, and I have not done anything unusual with it. Have others had this issue?

Thanks in advance.

 

[CJ3Flyer]

I tried several searches, so here’s a post. Apologies if this has been covered already.

‘09 LX with 143k miles. New to me since last summer (about 126k miles).

Short version is that Lexus dealership saying I need a new transfer case unit. Vehicle was making a noise that I can only describe as similar to the whine of an electric motor. It was difficult to hear unless I was in a quiet-ish place with the windows down like leaving an empty parking garage after working late. Going faster made a louder noise, but still difficult to hear in traffic, etc. Noise seemed to originate from lower in the center of vehicle. No leaks, warning lights, codes, or exterior damage. Center diff. lock was difficult to disengage, but low range and crawl seemed to work fine.

Hopefully this will get resolved as part of extended warranty, but it’s pricey $3800 for the unit plus install ($1200).

Last diff. and transfer case service was at 110k miles and it was performed by dealers at recommended intervals before that (per records with purchase).

I have not seen much of anything related to the transfer case as one of the known issues, the vehicle seems to have been a well-cared for city ride in low rust areas before me, and I have not done anything unusual with it. Have others had this issue?

Thanks in advance.

I’d do a fluid change and press on until the limits of the warranty.

 

[bloc]

..And send the used gear oil off for analysis. Problems will be very evident when sent to the right lab. Also consider getting a second opinion.

You don’t read much about problems because they very rarely have them. Not that it’s impossible, just unlikely.

 

[Mixelplix]

Just a shot in the dark, but on my 80 series the t-case will whine line a banshee if the front and rear tires are 5+ psi away from each other.

Is there any chance your tire pressure is off, or even worse, have different diameter tires front to rear?

 

[RSmithUT]

Thanks for the suggestions. I’ll check to see if the t-case oil shows signs of a problem and go from there.

On the tire question, they are all matched wildpeaks with maybe 10k miles. I just checked the pressures last weekend.

I’ll report back for the good of the order. Thanks again.

 

[grinchy]

I got a well used 2009 with 220k on it, I’ve replaced wheel bearings on all corners and that has eliminated a lot of noises . The rear bearings in particular were worn but the noise they made wasn’t easily locate able. Front more easily pinned down. The front hubs are not too expensive if you want to try that first.

what did the dealer say was wrong with the transfer case? 4 lo does have a particular gear whine to it, but it sounds like you’ve been in to 4 lo so is it the same whine?

 

[CJ3Flyer]

I got a well used 2009 with 220k on it, I’ve replaced wheel bearings on all corners and that has eliminated a lot of noises . The rear bearings in particular were worn but the noise they made wasn’t easily locate able. Front more easily pinned down. The front hubs are not too expensive if you want to try that first.

what did the dealer say was wrong with the transfer case? 4 lo does have a particular gear whine to it, but it sounds like you’ve been in to 4 lo so is it the same whine?

Do tell. My 97k LX feels sloppier than I’d like. My much lighter 4th gen 4Runner didn’t have the feel. I have thought it’s almost as if there’s wheel bearing slop and pondered whether or not the fat girl weight had worn the bearings. A secondary symptom is some p-brake scratching while zipping through a turn.

Did you do the wrenching? Within the realm of a semi-competent DIY guy? Special toosl? Any tribal knowledge you can share?

 

[grinchy]

The front is easy. You can buy new hubs with the bearings already seated. Aside from acquiring an axle socket and a 250lb torque wrench it's the same as doing a brake job plus four more bolts in the hub and the caliper bracket. Uses tundra hubs so parts are cheap.

Rear is also the same as tundra but requires a press and is a bit fiddly. Had that done by Nitro when they had the rear off to put in the 4.88s and locker.

 

[CJ3Flyer]

The front is easy. You can buy new hubs with the bearings already seated. Aside from acquiring an axle socket and a 250lb torque wrench it's the same as doing a brake job plus four more bolts in the hub and the caliper bracket. Uses tundra hubs so parts are cheap.

Rear is also the same as tundra but requires a press and is a bit fiddly. Had that done by Nitro when they had the rear off to put in the 4.88s and locker.

I’m headed towards 4.30 or 4.88* and I have done few gear swaps. I, considering AHC and my wants/needs am leaning towards 4.88s. Damn other vehicle (Cummins Ram with exhaust and programmer) has me feeling like the LX is a dog.

*I want to be in the 33” tire group.

Thanks for the insight.

 

[grinchy]

I’m headed towards 4.30 or 4.88* and I have done few gear swaps. I, considering AHC and my wants/needs am leaning towards 4.88s. Damn other vehicle (Cummins Ram with exhaust and programmer) has me feeling like the LX is a dog.

*I want to be in the 33” tire group.

Thanks for the insight.

Much more spry with 4.88s. Don’t regret it at all. Also it is a mod which you use every mile of driving.

 

[wet sprocket]

Thanks for the suggestions. I’ll check to see if the t-case oil shows signs of a problem and go from there.

On the tire question, they are all matched wildpeaks with maybe 10k miles. I just checked the pressures last weekend.

I’ll report back for the good of the order. Thanks again.

Hello - resurrecting an older thread here because I feel like I may be dealing with a similar issue. I’m hearing a very faint noise from inside while driving. I had my wife drive back and forth in our driveway so I could listen from outside and it sounds like it’s from the center of the vehicle underneath. It’s not quite a grind or a clunk, but just doesn’t sound right! I also put it on jack stands and couldn’t replicate the noise with spinning wheels (I thought it may be brakes or bearings at first). 165k miles on a 2010.

Question - did you end up replacing your transfer case or solving the problem some other way?

Thanks!

 

[bloc]

Hello - resurrecting an older thread here because I feel like I may be dealing with a similar issue. I’m hearing a very faint noise from inside while driving. I had my wife drive back and forth in our driveway so I could listen from outside and it sounds like it’s from the center of the vehicle underneath. It’s not quite a grind or a clunk, but just doesn’t sound right! I also put it on jack stands and couldn’t replicate the noise with spinning wheels (I thought it may be brakes or bearings at first). 165k miles on a 2010.

Question - did you end up replacing your transfer case or solving the problem some other way?

Thanks!

Draining the fluid and checking for metal in it would be a good indicator of a problem. I don't think it has a magnetic plug to help collect swarf.. there is an internal magnet in the case but I'm not sure whether it is visible through the drain plug.

Another option is to send that fluid off for used gear oil analysis. If that comes back clean you can be sure your case is fine.

Otherwise I'm also curious whether they replaced their case.

 

[RSmithUT]

Not much helpful diagnostic info here, but the t-case got replaced entirely. At some point last fall bad went to worse and 4Lo wouldn’t even engage. Lexus dealer I’ve been going to in UT (and have some level of confidence in) said the t-case actuator wars broken and that they usually didn’t bother taking t-cases apart to fix individual parts. Replaced entire unit. No similar noises since.

While I’m usually skeptical of extended warranties, I was worried about all of the extra (read $$) Lexus stuff like power 3rd rows and 4 zones of climate control, so I got one. It has worked out quite well with: the expected radiator leak, a replacement of the dvd system, alternator, and t-case. I’m hoping I have some karma left. (Knocking on wood now).

 

[wet sprocket]

Not much helpful diagnostic info here, but the t-case got replaced entirely. At some point last fall bad went to worse and 4Lo wouldn’t even engage. Lexus dealer I’ve been going to in UT (and have some level of confidence in) said the t-case actuator wars broken and that they usually didn’t bother taking t-cases apart to fix individual parts. Replaced entire unit. No similar noises since.

While I’m usually skeptical of extended warranties, I was worried about all of the extra (read $$) Lexus stuff like power 3rd rows and 4 zones of climate control, so I got one. It has worked out quite well with: the expected radiator leak, a replacement of the dvd system, alternator, and t-case. I’m hoping I have some karma left. (Knocking on wood now).

Thanks for the response. I’m glad to hear your warranty covered all that!

 

[wet sprocket]

Thanks for the response. I’m glad to hear your warranty covered all that!

Update!

I had a local shop check out my transfer case. They uncorked it and all that came out was a couple ounces of fluid and a lot of metal chunks. They were baffled and so was I because the case had never leaked. Not one drop! Where did the fluid go!? Once the new transfer case arrived and they took my burnt up case out, they found all of the fluid had escaped through a failed input shaft seal into the void between the transfer case and the transmission. Cost of repair with a lightly used transfer case was $4,600 and would have been $5,700 for a new case.

Interestingly, within a month of replacing my case I found that the new to me case with only 17,000 miles on it was leaking and actually dripping from the seam. They were able to replace that under warranty of course but found that the case they got as a replacement (also lightly used) had a little moisture on the input shaft seal which is what originally failed on my first case. They replaced those seals with fresh ones to be safe and hopefully the 3rd time is the charm here.

There are at least two possible lessons here:
1. Check T case fluid more often than once every 2 years
2. Watch out for input shaft seal failure. My original T case had about 165k miles on it

(edited mileage)

 

[TeCKis300]

Glad you figured it out!

Nice of you to close the loop and provide insight into a problem that I don't recall ever seeing. Yet I bet there are others out there with similar failures that have never shared. So thank you for contributing to the knowledge base.

 

[bloc]

Potentially crazy idea: drill a small hole into that area and tap it for a drain screw/plug. Remove that plug periodically to check for this issue.

I haven’t had a look at mine (let alone pictures of the inside) to see if this is feasible.. but as some of us accrue mileage I wonder whether more will start to have problems like this.

 

[wet sprocket]

Potentially crazy idea: drill a small hole into that area and tap it for a drain screw/plug. Remove that plug periodically to check for this issue.

I haven’t had a look at mine (let alone pictures of the inside) to see if this is feasible.. but as some of us accrue mileage I wonder whether more will start to have problems like this.

Here’s a picture of the inside I just took for ya. Side note... I couldn’t let the shop just toss the original case so I took it home but I have no plans for it. If anyone wants it or wants the electronics on the back they’re yours for free. I’d ship anything small but for the whole thing you’d have to come get it here in Chelsea, MI.

 

[jrmudder92]

Here’s a picture of the inside I just took for ya. Side note... I couldn’t let the shop just toss the original case so I took it home but I have no plans for it. If anyone wants it or wants the electronics on the back they’re yours for free. I’d ship anything small but for the whole thing you’d have to come get it here in Chelsea, MI.

View attachment 2574982

Ill take it if you can hold onto it. still I can find a way to get it to me. haha

 

[wet sprocket]

Ill take it if you can hold onto it. still I can find a way to get it to me. haha

Sure, PM sent.