King Shocks - Protection
- Thread starter pfran42
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
I have these on my Icon Piggy Backs
4Runner Stainless Steel Lower Shock Shin Guard - ICON Vehicle Dynamics
The icon shin guards will fit a Radflo shock, I don't know about a king. If someone could give me the dimensions for the King shock where it mounts to the axle I can verify if they will work.
This isn't my picture, this is of them on a FJC, but mine essentially look the same. I may just weld on some "shin guards" to block stones from pitting my radflos.
FJ Cruiser and 4 Runner use the exact same shocks, coilovers and suspension links so yes the shin guard will work. I also have a few in stock as well Icon Vehicle Dynamics
- Thread starter
- #26
Well, after romping around on many miles of back-country hunting roads this past weekend I can report the following:
1. These shocks are AWESOME! The rougher you treat them, the smoother they feel. It wasn't till getting back on blacktop after two days of being aired down on mud, sand and gravel that I noticed the stiffness over expansion joints, speed bumps and the like.
2. You need to mount the rears with remote reservoirs pointing towards the center of the truck. I was worried about hitting what appears to be a brake line on the driver side and mounted them with the reservoirs pointing towards the tail light corners and I ended up scratching up the reservoir end-caps and stressing the mounting hose clamps. Both of my reservoirs ended up twisted at an angle and turned about 30 degrees. I think the manufacturers should clue us in on mounting procedures/locations/orientations as there were no instructions of any sort included with my shocks.
3. My modified shock boots did their job. I kicked up a lot of crap last weekend, got stuck more times than I care to remember, had to winch up loose rock faces, through mud holes and tried my best to impersonate a rally car driver on a few sections of trail. I did have a little bit of build-up in the very bottom of the shock boot but I think it was due to me forgetting to cut the bottom part of the boots off. The way I had them mounted, there was a 2-3 inch compressed section at the bottom of the boots that folded up on itself and trapped a little mud. After cutting the boots, I didn't experience any more mud/debris build-up.
I will probably purchase the Icon guards if I can find something that works for my setup but all-in-all, I think the shock boots performed admirably.
1. These shocks are AWESOME! The rougher you treat them, the smoother they feel. It wasn't till getting back on blacktop after two days of being aired down on mud, sand and gravel that I noticed the stiffness over expansion joints, speed bumps and the like.
2. You need to mount the rears with remote reservoirs pointing towards the center of the truck. I was worried about hitting what appears to be a brake line on the driver side and mounted them with the reservoirs pointing towards the tail light corners and I ended up scratching up the reservoir end-caps and stressing the mounting hose clamps. Both of my reservoirs ended up twisted at an angle and turned about 30 degrees. I think the manufacturers should clue us in on mounting procedures/locations/orientations as there were no instructions of any sort included with my shocks.
3. My modified shock boots did their job. I kicked up a lot of crap last weekend, got stuck more times than I care to remember, had to winch up loose rock faces, through mud holes and tried my best to impersonate a rally car driver on a few sections of trail. I did have a little bit of build-up in the very bottom of the shock boot but I think it was due to me forgetting to cut the bottom part of the boots off. The way I had them mounted, there was a 2-3 inch compressed section at the bottom of the boots that folded up on itself and trapped a little mud. After cutting the boots, I didn't experience any more mud/debris build-up.
I will probably purchase the Icon guards if I can find something that works for my setup but all-in-all, I think the shock boots performed admirably.
So they are stiff on road? My big gripe right now with the stock shocks is that I feel every joint and bump and get a nice jolt from speed bumps. I'm sure a lot has to do with the E rated tires but still...
Yes, they are very stiff on road. Especially compared to OME & OEM. After I got mine and my alignment done, I thought...."wow, time to repack the bearings and check body mounts!" So, if you want a lux, feel nothing ride "on road". Then these type of shock may not be for you. Now as mentioned, at speed these things are buttery smooth. I can take speed bumps 2-3 times faster than with an OME shock. Dips you see in the road that show scrapes from cars going too fast dont even affect the ride. I dont even need to hit my breaks for those and it is like they are not even there.
One bonus of these is that you can adjust the pressure in them. It is interesting to play with the pressures to see what it does to the ride.
so they are stiff at low speed but nice at high speed? It seems like are you saying two opposite things... very stiff on road but soak up speed bums and dips like butter? I'm more concerned with feel at speeds of 20+ mph
Well, in a way I am saying two different things. Cracks, joints, and bumps are different than speed bumps, dips in the road, etc. These shock perform in a different way than a OEM or OME shock by the way they are designed. For clarity, I am running the Radflo 2.5" remote res shocks. At 6'-2" and 205lbs it took almost everything I had to compress one of these shocks.
Based on what you said:
I would bet you would never be happy with the on-road feel of these shocks.
I rebuilt everything on the underside of my rig this summer. I replaced shocks, springs, installed TC UCA's, replaced the rear UCA and installed Slee heavy duty rear LCA's. I replaced all sway bar bushings and links, installed Timbren bump stops, replaced the front Diff support brackets and bushings, etc. The ride is by far stiffer than it has ever been with OEM or the OME suspension I ran before. Those cracks and bumps in the road are a lot more prevalent than before. Enough that I went through and checked body mounts and repacked the bearings thinking it might be that. In the end it is just the nature of the way these ride and the carppy roads around where I live. Speeds above say 40mph and everything smooths out. Below that you feel everything.
Well that is my experience in a nut shell anyway.....
I hope this is helpful for you. Weather or not these would be right for you really depends on where and how you drive. What is your goal. When I was up in Northern CA and spending a lot of time up around Tahoe and the Rubicon, I feel a shock like the OME, Billi, etc. is a better suited shock. Now that I am in Southern CA and spending more time in the desert. This shock made more since to me. I like to drive fast and hitting dips at speed.
If you are looking into the Radflo I would recommend calling and talking with Glen about your needs and wants. I would also recommend finding some one nearby with a King/Radflo set-up and go for a ride with them so you can feel first hand how they perform.
As for how jaring your ride sounds now with the OEM shocks, I would recommend repacking the bearings and checking all body mounts. When I made the switch from OEm to OME I was around 115K. I never experienced a ride like you describe on the OEM shock. In fact I thought it was uber cush....
Ok, Now back to work. Hopefully some one else can help shed some light for you too!
chers.
Do either of these shocks have rebound and/or compression adjusters?
King offers a compression adjuster via a click dial type set-up atop the remote can. Last time I spoke to Glen he didn't have this available but might be working on it.
FWIW I originally used the compression click type adjuster from Fox atop my 2.0's. But their system just closes down the orifice between the shock body and the remote can. I had problems with cavitation and/or piston issues in the remote due to this restriction. When we eliminated this compression adjuster my problems with same went away.
With a nitrogen tank (you can assume with any of these types of shocks you will want a nitrogen tank sometime; makes it super easy to remove/install without having to fight the pressurized shock) you can play with the nitrogen pressure to change the way they behave.
I've been experimenting with 200-400psi levels and at the upper end I actually get about 1" lift from the rear shocks (Radflo 2.5 with .875" shafts) at 400psi nitrogen. This is handy when I have the trailer connected and need a little more lift. As a byproduct of the higher nitrogen psi/pressure I get increased compression valving...which is handy, once again, when the KK is hitched.
FWIW I originally used the compression click type adjuster from Fox atop my 2.0's. But their system just closes down the orifice between the shock body and the remote can. I had problems with cavitation and/or piston issues in the remote due to this restriction. When we eliminated this compression adjuster my problems with same went away.
With a nitrogen tank (you can assume with any of these types of shocks you will want a nitrogen tank sometime; makes it super easy to remove/install without having to fight the pressurized shock) you can play with the nitrogen pressure to change the way they behave.
I've been experimenting with 200-400psi levels and at the upper end I actually get about 1" lift from the rear shocks (Radflo 2.5 with .875" shafts) at 400psi nitrogen. This is handy when I have the trailer connected and need a little more lift. As a byproduct of the higher nitrogen psi/pressure I get increased compression valving...which is handy, once again, when the KK is hitched.
You can always have the compression and rebound rates changed to your driving style and comfort. Then you can do what spresso did to fine tune it.
Buy the shock boots for the rear, no one sees them. Metal guards will work great but when you hit a rock (very easy) on the 100 you will bend that guard into the shock. Game over! I ignored the advice from King and now i have pitted rear shafts after only two trips. I bought some cheap boots from pro comp off amazon. Problem solved.
Click adjust is just a gimmick, all it does is restrict oil flow which has zero benefits in terms of performance. If you want to be able to adjust rebound and compression without revalving then a double bypass shock is the best option. You can control true oil flow as the piston is cycling throughout the travel of the shock.
^^^ True enough but packaging is impossible on a 100-Series without custom behind the axle mounts for the rear and impossible for the front IFS mounts. And the incessant clicking apart of the external bypass shocks would be a bit obnoxious on pavement for most I would think.
I can't say it enough and I probably sound like a broken record and/or someone getting paid to keep reiterating this (no such thing): Glenn did a superb job of selecting and setting up the valving on my Radflos...they're perfect. I fully expected to have had to play with the tune...but not necessary at all.
And the big 2.5's provide significantly better control, damping, comfort/compliance over all road and trail surfaces compared to the 2.0 Fox shocks I was previously running; that says alot because the Fox shocks were lightyears better than the prior OEM shocks.
I was a little anxious, before I mounted and tested the Radflo 2.5's, for slow to medium speed pavement work but they are much more comfortable yet offer more control and better overall performance than the prior Fox shocks.
Now I just have to get a set of them for the front...
I can't say it enough and I probably sound like a broken record and/or someone getting paid to keep reiterating this (no such thing): Glenn did a superb job of selecting and setting up the valving on my Radflos...they're perfect. I fully expected to have had to play with the tune...but not necessary at all.
And the big 2.5's provide significantly better control, damping, comfort/compliance over all road and trail surfaces compared to the 2.0 Fox shocks I was previously running; that says alot because the Fox shocks were lightyears better than the prior OEM shocks.
I was a little anxious, before I mounted and tested the Radflo 2.5's, for slow to medium speed pavement work but they are much more comfortable yet offer more control and better overall performance than the prior Fox shocks.
Now I just have to get a set of them for the front...
I just finally picked up a set for the rear of the 2.5" Radflos to match my fronts, haha.
So, I thought I would circle back on this. I ordered up a set and went to install them yesterday. As LT notes they will fit the Radflo shock and protect all but the upper 2" or so of the shaft.
However, if you are running the Radflo 2.5 remote Res piggy back in the rear they will NOT work on our rigs. The way you need to position the remote to clear the sway bar and lower control arm when flexed out will cause the Icon shin guard to jam into the bottom of the remote and piggy back bracket. I bolted it up and played around trying to make it work. But there is no way I would chance running these. Something is going to get jacked up!
Now, if you are running a non-remote Radflo or mount you remote in a different location other than piggy back you should have no issues.
These are built up pretty nice and I dont see bending them being too much of an issue. If you are hitting rocks in this area, chances are you will be bending the shocks, lower control arm Sway bar brackets as well. So, you will be screwed no matter what.
I was going to call about returning them. But, if you want to save on shipping cost I can sell them to you for what I paid minus shipping.
pm me if you do.