King 2.5 front coil adjustments

[duncancsu]

I can’t think of a way, at least with commonly available tools. The spring mount on the frame wraps around the top of the assembly enough that it would need to be a very compact tool for clearance.

And, at least when they were clean, with the suspension dropped out it wasn’t something you’d do by hand but the collar did spin without issue using the tool, as long as that hydraulic line could be dealt with. I haven’t tried messing with them now that they’ve been fed a diet of dirt and water and innocent-but-now-very-dead flying insects.

I just redid my my driver side guys. I'm happy to report that I did it in 23 minutes! I was previously doing about 1 hour to 1:10 per side. I think the key was practice makes perfect. I knew exactly what I needed and how to go about it. I'm feeling hot if anyone wants to come over for a quick adjustment! Lol I cycled suspension, tightened kdss and measured. Left and right sides are identical height now! Now to dial in the adjuster settings! I'm thinking I'm going on the firmer side. Testing and adjusting will continue tomorrow!

Very nice. Did you keep them on the truck? You mentioned KDSS, did you open the valve to adjust the preload on the Kings?

 

[duncancsu]

Very nice. Did you keep them on the truck? You mentioned KDSS, did you open the valve to adjust the preload on the Kings?

Never mind on keeping them in the truck, you have the legit coil compressor. But I am curious what you did with KDSS

 

[DJCloz]

Very nice. Did you keep them on the truck? You mentioned KDSS, did you open the valve to adjust the preload on the Kings?

No. I removed them completely to adjust on the branick strut compressor.

 

[DJCloz]

Never mind on keeping them in the truck, you have the legit coil compressor. But I am curious what you did with KDSS

I always loosen the kdss valves the recommended 3 turns to open the system. This allows you to manipulate the kdss system with more ease when disconnecting and re-attaching the sway bar links

 

[duncancsu]

I always loosen the kdss valves the recommended 3 turns to open the system. This allows you to manipulate the kdss system with more ease when disconnecting and re-attaching the sway bar links

That makes sense for you since you take it off completely. I have to imagine it’s not necessary if keeping it attached to the truck. But if anyone thinks otherwise I’d love to hear.

 

[bloc]

That makes sense for you since you take it off completely. I have to imagine it’s not necessary if keeping it attached to the truck. But if anyone thinks otherwise I’d love to hear.

It is necessary.

The valves/screws lock hydraulic pressure into different circuits that allow the bars to work, and to further complicate things the front is linked to the rear. Any change in ride height, and especially changes in lean, change the relationship of the sides of the bars and the front bar to the rear. The valves being closed prevents this change from happening.

The correct procedure is to open valves, do whatever work might change ride height, then close them to lock in the bars as this being the new “neutral state.” Otherwise you are forcing the bars to work against each other, even if slightly.

All of this isn’t to say people haven’t done work with the screws closed.. but it’s not the correct way to work on this sway bar system.

 

[duncancsu]

It is necessary.

The valves/screws lock hydraulic pressure into different circuits that allow the bars to work, and to further complicate things the front is linked to the rear. Any change in ride height, and especially changes in lean, change the relationship of the sides of the bars and the front bar to the rear. The valves being closed prevents this change from happening.

The correct procedure is to open valves, do whatever work might change ride height, then close them to lock in the bars as this being the new “neutral state.” Otherwise you are forcing the bars to work against each other, even if slightly.

All of this isn’t to say people haven’t done work with the screws closed.. but it’s not the correct way to work on this sway bar system.

Thank, great and very clear explanation.

 

[bloc]

Thank, great and very clear explanation.

You're welcome.

If you want to visualize what's happening inside that valve see this thread:

Anatomy of a KDSS valve

I think you guys and gals are gonna like this.. HUGE thanks to @jimoldguy who shipped me his rust-damaged KDSS valve after it was replaced for him with a new one. That can't have been cheap. Fortunately for me he kept the old one, and when I PM'd asking if he'd send it for a project I'm working...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[jefo13]

I just redid my my driver side guys. I'm happy to report that I did it in 23 minutes! I was previously doing about 1 hour to 1:10 per side. I think the key was practice makes perfect. I knew exactly what I needed and how to go about it. I'm feeling hot if anyone wants to come over for a quick adjustment! Lol I cycled suspension, tightened kdss and measured. Left and right sides are identical height now! Now to dial in the adjuster settings! I'm thinking I'm going on the firmer side. Testing and adjusting will continue tomorrow!

That is amazing timing!

 

[onelittlestar]

It is necessary.

The valves/screws lock hydraulic pressure into different circuits that allow the bars to work, and to further complicate things the front is linked to the rear. Any change in ride height, and especially changes in lean, change the relationship of the sides of the bars and the front bar to the rear. The valves being closed prevents this change from happening.

The correct procedure is to open valves, do whatever work might change ride height, then close them to lock in the bars as this being the new “neutral state.” Otherwise you are forcing the bars to work against each other, even if slightly.

All of this isn’t to say people haven’t done work with the screws closed.. but it’s not the correct way to work on this sway bar system.

For someone new to KDSS, is there a good link to procedure? I need to rebuild my Kings sooner than later, the bearing squeak is driving me crazy

 

[bloc]

For someone new to KDSS, is there a good link to procedure? I need to rebuild my Kings sooner than later, the bearing squeak is driving me crazy

it's pretty simple, but there is one critical detail.

If you do suspension work use a 5mm allen bit to loosen the two valves on the bottom of the KDSS valve but DO NOT loosen more than 3 turns. Up to 3 is fine, just don't go past this. Do your work, set the truck back down, move it forward or backward enough to get the suspension to settle, then on flat ground close the two screws and torque to 120in-lbf or 10ft-lbf.

If you have to do your work in a place that isn't flat or is at an incline, you can close the valves then go find a flat area to open them, drive a few feet, then close.

The system does have the ability to self-balance for smaller misalignments.. this is why frequently parking with the suspension articulated can induce a lean.

Any information you come up with during the rebuild would be greatly appreciated on the board. Ben's video is very thorough, but I'm curious what real-world things people find. So far mine aren't squeaking. How many miles on yours?

 

[onelittlestar]

it's pretty simple, but there is one critical detail.

If you do suspension work use a 5mm allen bit to loosen the two valves on the bottom of the KDSS valve but DO NOT loosen more than 3 turns. Up to 3 is fine, just don't go past this. Do your work, set the truck back down, move it forward or backward enough to get the suspension to settle, then on flat ground close the two screws and torque to 120in-lbf or 10ft-lbf.

If you have to do your work in a place that isn't flat or is at an incline, you can close the valves then go find a flat area to open them, drive a few feet, then close.

The system does have the ability to self-balance for smaller misalignments.. this is why frequently parking with the suspension articulated can induce a lean.

THANK YOU!

One more question on KDSS...if this procedure was not done correctly in the past, what would/could potential issues arise? I've noticed rebound is not level, as-in I have a side to side swayed rebound. Now, this could just be a result of worn rear shocks, which I'm pretty positive it is as one shows more travel than the other on the shafts, but the question stands.

 

[linuxgod]

For someone new to KDSS, is there a good link to procedure? I need to rebuild my Kings sooner than later, the bearing squeak is driving me crazy

Official procedure. It says 2.0 to 3.5 turns which should correspond to 2 to 3.5mm, so I would infer the hex bolts used are 1.0mm pitch. I've gone up to 3 full turns without issue, though somewhere around 2 to 2.5 turns should be more than enough. If you have all 4 wheels in the air (either on a lift or on 4 jack stands) you can tell when you hit the "release point" as the wheels will droop, somewhere around 2 turns. NOTE: If you are only using a pair of jackstands and 2 wheels will remain on the ground, do the below procedure BEFORE jacking the vehicle up or it may shift on you while you're underneath it!

 

[onelittlestar]

Official procedure. It says 2.0 to 3.5 turns which should correspond to 2 to 3.5mm, so I would infer the hex bolts used are 1.0mm pitch. I've gone up to 3 full turns without issue, though somewhere around 2 to 2.5 turns should be more than enough. If you have all 4 wheels in the air (either on a lift or on 4 jack stands) you can tell when you hit the "release point" as the wheels will droop, somewhere around 2 turns. NOTE: If you are only using a pair of jackstands and 2 wheels will remain on the ground, do the below procedure BEFORE jacking the vehicle up or it may shift on you while you're underneath it!

View attachment 3103203

Well that right there is some solid info, nothing quite like getting sat on by an LC

 

[linuxgod]

Well that right there is some solid info, nothing quite like getting sat on by an LC

Yeah. I learned this the hard way. Front was jacked up, rear was not. e-brake was set but it still shifted on the jack stands. Didn't fall thankfully (though there's sufficient clearance under the truck when doing this I'd have been fine. I was not expecting it to shift since the front was on stands, the vehicle was in Park, and the e-brake was set, but when the tension came off the sway bars it did.

 

[duncancsu]

You're welcome.

If you want to visualize what's happening inside that valve see this thread:

Anatomy of a KDSS valve

I think you guys and gals are gonna like this.. HUGE thanks to @jimoldguy who shipped me his rust-damaged KDSS valve after it was replaced for him with a new one. That can't have been cheap. Fortunately for me he kept the old one, and when I PM'd asking if he'd send it for a project I'm working...

forum.ih8mud.com

Great, thorough write up. Crazy all the inter working of the valves and accumulators.

 

[ibsanou]

Nice work! I swapped the Radflos on my GX on and off a few times (initial install, spring rate swaps, valving change...). Aligning the kdds sway bar brackets sucked until I fab'd a tool for it.

FWIW I always just jacked the front end up to unload the springs as much as possible and then did collar adjustments with the coilovers on the truck. Cleaning the threads and some penetrating oil can help too.

Hello all,

with a few thousand miles on my king 2.5 setup as they settled in I needed to adjust for an inch of uneven sag in the front. Ben at filthy told me king recommends removing the coil over for adjustments but it wasn’t absolutely necessary, but didn’t provide details at the time. They do come with a tool for rotating the collars, but with the reservoir hose in the way it is almost useless. I had to come up with a method to adjust things in situ, as there is no way I’m going through the extra work of removing the whole thing.

Here’s the shock as it sits.
View attachment 2513986

The hole left of the Allen lock bolt is where the supplied tool inserts and allows you to rotate the collar. Obviously the hydraulic line is a problem.

View attachment 2513987

So I needed a way to rotate the collar past the clamp bolt section where the holes can’t be drilled as closely. You could put a punch in the edge of the hole tangentially and hammer on that, tearing up these works of art. Not an option.

Enter my near 50# bucket of old bolts I’ve collected over the years, and some unique parts I’ve held on to.

View attachment 2513995

This is a 90109-08234 special bolt used on the turbo boost pipe to intake manifold on a 1kz-te engine in one of my past projects. The smooth shank on it is the right diameter to fit into the holes drilled in the spring perch collar.

A bench vise and hacksaw then gave me this

View attachment 2513989

It is used like this

View attachment 2513988

Held in with the correct flat punch and hammer I could now drive the collar to the left and add preload on that side without incurring any damage. Once past the clamp bolt area the regular tool works, this is about 3/4 of the collar.

I added a bit less than .5” of preload on this side and that got the truck within about 3/8“ of level.

Hey do you still have the rest of the bolts? I need 2 of those and I can't find them. Are you willing to sell them to me?
Please let me. Thx.

 

[bloc]

Hey do you still have the rest of the bolts? I need 2 of those and I can't find them. Are you willing to sell them to me?
Please let me. Thx.

Which bolts? For the 1KZ?

 

[ibsanou]

Which bolts? For the 1KZ?

Yes, part #9010908234.

 

[bloc]

Yes, part #9010908234.

I finally had time to get out there and dig.. I have two left. Send me a PM and I'll figure out how to get them to you.