Keeping SOA, but lower rig for COG, could use suggestions.

Joined
Aug 15, 2005
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Lemoore, CA (south of Fresno) / Cortes Island, B.C
I have a 73 40 with 60 series front axle, stock rear axle, lockers, bla bla bla. I am running stock shackles in front and a (plus spacers) and 1/2" shackles in the rear. This was to level out the 40 because of the axle spring perches I used to outboard my front spring hangers to use the 60 series axle. I also removed the second from the bottom leaf from the front stock springs. Back are also flat stock springs. Rig sits level.

I am still sitting high (compared to a few other SOA 40s) and I want to get a lower COG. I am a bit shy of another SOA rig on 40s and I only have 35” tires.

I was thinking of removing another leaf from the front and rear springs. Only problem is, I don't know how many leafs I can remove and still keep them safe enough to drive.

Any thoughts on this or how to lower my rig a bit. I am keeping the SOA (flex is great and works perfect off road for me)
 

yzftaco

Goofy-Goober
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Jun 6, 2005
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Menlo Park, CA
Smaller spring pads on the axles, and have the hangers as close to the frame as possible...

not sure if you have a SR or not, but on a SR have the shackle end frenched into the frame..

Edit: I'm assuming you have stock leaf springs, and not lifted?
 
Joined
Aug 15, 2005
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Lemoore, CA (south of Fresno) / Cortes Island, B.C
Thought I would bring this back up. I want to try the easy first before pulling out the plasma cutter.


Replacing the spring pads is a nightmare at this time, although I am changing my pinion angle for the rear axle to work with a CV DL so that is easy enough, but the front is finally bolted/welded together and I don't want to cut if I don't have to.



My rig is SOA with stock springs and the front shackles are stock height, the rear are +1" to compensate for the added weight of gear. My stock springs are not quite flat. There is still a little bit of arch in them and it has been on this set-up for over 2 years now. I already removed one leaf from the front springs since they sit a bit higher on the perches because I am using an FJ60 front axle and outborded the hangers.

I want to sit a bit lower to the ground and with arch still alive in my leaf springs, I was thinking about removing one more from the front and two from the rear. Before I did this, I obviously want some facts about removing a leaf.

How many leafs can be removed from a spring pack before they are unsafe? Obviously if the springs go into negative arch on a flat surface, that is unsafe. Is it safe to remove more than one or two until the springs become flat?
 
Joined
Jan 14, 2003
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1,065
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Wilton, Ca
One of the problems you will run into lowering the front is the TR and DL hitting the frame. my springs are completely flat full stock packs, flipped w/ stock shackles in the front and I only have ~4" of uptravel on the passenger side before the TR/DL hit the frame.
 

BDSeff1fitty

1982 Toyota Pickup
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Nov 12, 2008
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Houston, Texas
whats your frame height? i'm a hair below 23" and not fully assembled. I have a SR through the frame and stock shackles. 35" tires.
 
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mattcamp

SILVER Star
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Apr 27, 2009
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Portland/Vernonia Oregon
I'm not soa but very interested in what you guys are talking about, sorry to barge in but do you guys have any pics, I really want to learn more about suspensions and articulation as I have probably made an uneducated mistake by not going soa or at least researching it before I put a bunch of cash into my suspension. I was told only to do a soa if I wasn't planning on driving on the street, but I am seeing that isn't true.
 
Joined
Aug 15, 2005
Messages
5,125
Location
Lemoore, CA (south of Fresno) / Cortes Island, B.C
SOA is the best option for a lift. Mostly they are between 4 and 6 inches depending on condition of springs or by using stock springs. It is more expensive by far to do SOA properly like Hy-steer arms, Cut and Turn (unless you do that yourself), and a few other necessary items. Might as well upgrade TREs, make larger drag and tie rods, and replace all bushings since you will run 35s or 37s with stock axles (some run larger and have success, but general consensus is 37 is safe). Then there is the added stress with a locker (it will go that way eventually). The rig will drive and handle much better than say a 4" lift and you will get a very balanced rig in the end. Up travel is a bit limited and you will have to lengthen your bump stops so the springs don’t invert, but if your rock crawling or doing forest service roads and not doing go fast woops, huge up travel is as necessary as a desert racer. Don't forget you can flip the springs for added wheel base. I am at 100" wheel base and there is a huge advantage to adding WB for improving your center of gravity and control on and off road.

As for my frame height, can't check that right now since the rear of the rig is on stands and the axle is on the ground while I reweld my perches to improve my pinion angle since I have to run a CV DL.

Pic of my rig here for reverence
https://forum.ih8mud.com/chit-chat-...e-into-months-petersens-4wd-reader-rides.html
 

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