KDSS Manual Switch (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Prado GX460
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Other available switch solution disrupts this wire (Pin 4-Female side) at KDSS accumulator when activated.
R23 connector is one that attaches to Accumulator
Pin #4 ground connection terminates at R41 in left rear of vehicle
R23 connector is one that attaches to Accumulator
Pin #4 ground connection terminates at R41 in left rear of vehicle
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Bang Bang
Age is a state of mind.
Ummmmm…..fawk that noise. I’ll spend the $130 and tap a couple fuses.
That last pic gives me nightmares.
Let's call it the "FREE" "evaluation mode" 
for this mod
I haven't checked but might be possible to access this plug via the jack area. I still haven't found anything else that terminates at this ground... there could be though.
I'll probably put my borescope up in there in the future to see where it is at.
If you ever need to see exposed interior areas of GX... lots of good shots and videos here
Just giving options for those that don't mind tearing interior apart to accomplish the same goal for minimal cost.
I see some balk at crawl switch cost and understand but there has been a $10-$20 option or less since late 2019. MTS will still require the ECU. I do believe TheNomad plans to do it though.
for this modI haven't checked but might be possible to access this plug via the jack area. I still haven't found anything else that terminates at this ground... there could be though.
I'll probably put my borescope up in there in the future to see where it is at.
If you ever need to see exposed interior areas of GX... lots of good shots and videos here
Just giving options for those that don't mind tearing interior apart to accomplish the same goal for minimal cost.
I see some balk at crawl switch cost and understand but there has been a $10-$20 option or less since late 2019. MTS will still require the ECU. I do believe TheNomad plans to do it though.
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This will work but I believe it would not gives the indicator on the dash. This module are also connected to CAN, so it might trigger some other fault.
That very well could be. The other other option I posted about temp ground disconnect should work as it is doing the same thing a different product is doing but inside the vehicle. Invasive to setup but another cheap option of some wire and a switch.
re_guderian
SILVER Star
Well, both my switches have soldered on LEDs, not drop in ones. Back to the drawing board.What's funny about this picture is my switches look EXACTLY like this except my LED lightbar switch is white backlit.
As far as the button colors, I have never fooled with changing out led's like this. It doesn't bother me that much but if you have a kind of step-by-step tutorial on how to do it, I may tackle it. I just don't understand why Don doesn't use a white backlit switch.......
Yes, I have the MTS that I'll be installing, and I did go ahead and purchase some little momentary buttons to install the up/down Crawl control in the front center console.
I was going to use a factory style dual momentary switch in the left side factory blank. I figured it wasn't really a good spot as opposed to the on/off and up/down being close together. Of course my next question will be possibility of using the adjustable shock button for up/down.
As for KDSS, if its a matter of interrupting the fuse with a switch on a relay, there are toyota switches to fill that spot where others have installed DR KDSS. It seems you'd just need a relay, a switch, and the wires to tap. Looks like he's using a dual relay.
I was going to use a factory style dual momentary switch in the left side factory blank. I figured it wasn't really a good spot as opposed to the on/off and up/down being close together. Of course my next question will be possibility of using the adjustable shock button for up/down.
As for KDSS, if its a matter of interrupting the fuse with a switch on a relay, there are toyota switches to fill that spot where others have installed DR KDSS. It seems you'd just need a relay, a switch, and the wires to tap. Looks like he's using a dual relay.
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That's directly in line with the cargo net mount and the phillips screw.Let's call it the "FREE" "evaluation mode"
I haven't checked but might be possible to access this plug via the jack area. I still haven't found anything else that terminates at this ground... there could be though.
I'll probably put my borescope up in there in the future to see where it is at.
If you ever need to see exposed interior areas of GX... lots of good shots and videos here
Just giving options for those that don't mind tearing interior apart to accomplish the same goal for minimal cost.
I see some balk at crawl switch cost and understand but there has been a $10-$20 option or less since late 2019. MTS will still require the ECU. I do believe TheNomad plans to do it though.
Probably not easy enough to grab from the jack opening but the panel just pops off there.
The wiring is probably very short to the connector.
A temporary switch to try it out could be done. I just read where a 4runner did just that, a momentary relay connected at the rear sensor and wiring to a switch in the front
Easiest way to know if you have the right ground in that rear driver side tail light area is to disconnect it. This will trigger the KDSS fault light
That white with black stripe wire can be found under the drivers seat (under the carpet) going into the drivers side door sill harness.
I added a switch to that wire to break the ground going to the solenoids. It seems to do what the plug and play harness's do. KDSS light on when the switch breaks the circuit, slightly softer at higher speeds, I find single wheel impacts are less abrupt, when both front or rear hit the same thing at the same time there is no change to "comfort" levels. On street handling isn't really that bad unless there is a hard acceleration or deceleration combined with a hard turn, hard cornering with flat throttle isn't much different than stock.
Nice. Did you just wire a hidden manual toggle switch?
Any photos?
This looks like a perfect option for an aux panel of switches as well.
To fancy it up a normally closed relay and a toyota on/off switch in the dash blank location would be the way to go.
May try this way!
Any photos?
This looks like a perfect option for an aux panel of switches as well.
To fancy it up a normally closed relay and a toyota on/off switch in the dash blank location would be the way to go.
May try this way!
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ya just a small valet style switch within reach under the dash
Nice!!! Dead simple and cheap!!
re_guderian
SILVER Star
Yesterday I did over 60 miles of dirt. The first 50 I was aired down to ~22 psi, and going anywhere from 0.1- 25 MPH. I had the button pushed in and KDSS disabled the entire time. The ride on Ironman suspension and Falken Wildpeak AT3W's was great as expected.
The last 10 miles were on a heavily traveled Forest Service road (N. end of the Young-Heber road FS512 from FS101 to the 260) that is very washboarded. I aired back up to ~35 PSI before heading out this section. It is anywhere from 15 MPH through some hairpins, to 40 MPH down the straight sections. I tried various sections of with/without KDSS disabled. I honestly couldn't tell much of a difference. I'm going with low-PSI trumps KDSS-disable by orders of magnitude "for washboards".
Having said that, I'm not sure a KDSS disable (or even a sway bar delete) would ever really help on washboards since BOTH wheels tend to hit the washboard at the same time. I picture it being more useful for high-speed potholes, where one wheel per axle hits the obstacle. And having said THAT, I don't think I'd consider myself an expert on the theoretical function of the KDSS valve, and the front-to-back action, as compared to traditional independent F/R sway bars. Also not sure how quick it can react to a 40 MPH washboard impact. Yeah, I've read the thread where the guy cut open the control valve, but still...
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I was thinking exactly what you said about washboards, as they are both fronts up and down at the same time. This would be a function of the sway bar itself moving up and down and the kdss remaining fairly straight. It's the offset articulation that pivots the sway bar itself on the kdss piston. Washboards are high frequency so shock valving matters a lot and the tire sidewall is also a shock absorber.
As you said, potholes and offset dips etc are handled by the kdss. Its just a part of the "system" of multiple elements combining to handle various conditions. The nice thing is that it makes the vehicle more "adaptable". Maybe not excellent at any one thing but definitely good at most.
Driving a Jeep Wrangler, on the road every day, is a lesson in on-road compromise.
As you said, potholes and offset dips etc are handled by the kdss. Its just a part of the "system" of multiple elements combining to handle various conditions. The nice thing is that it makes the vehicle more "adaptable". Maybe not excellent at any one thing but definitely good at most.
Driving a Jeep Wrangler, on the road every day, is a lesson in on-road compromise.
r2m
Richard
I'm thinking the sway bar disconnect being more for slow articulation, to try and keep all your tires in contact for traction, not high speed trail running.
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re_guderian
SILVER Star
Agreed, which is the intent of KDSS in the first place. I'm not regretting the purchase of this switch and relay, as it adds one more option to the toolbox. Kind of like when we had to do a "pin-7" mod to get 4-lo, center unlocked on an 80 series. I'm just not sure what the optimum use case for it is just yet.
While I have not done specific testing yet, just looking at the specs, and at toyota as a whole I think the kdss limit is set to level: nanny. I cant even type in my gps address going faster than 5mph so their choice of 12 mph is probably overly cautious. I'd venture a guess that up to about 25mph it may be useful. After that speed I think it diminishes in value vs the ability to control sway (weight transfer) in maneuvering offroad. Think off-camber sweeper on loose surfaces with outside weight transfer up high.
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