Builds KDJ95W-GKPSY Journal (1 Viewer)

[DragoPrado]

The truck shouldn't struggle to start in those temps at all. My experience is more with the KZ engine that I have, but that fires up no problem in -10c weather. Maybe one crank longer at most. Are your glow plugs in good condition?

Also, does your center diff light on the dash flash or go solid? Flash means trying to lock, solid means it's locked. Do you have a rear diff lock as well? Normally that can only be locked after your CD is locked.

You are right, it shouldnt be a problem. That was last year. Granted, I had 15w40, one failing battery and old glow plugs when that happened. I haven't experienced those temps so far, but here is my prep : This year I have brand new glow plugs, 2 brand new oversized batteries from Costco(795ccax2 for a total of 1590cca) I'll be putting Rotella T6 0W40 diesel specific oil and Hot Shot Anti-gel on every gas tank, also new fuel filter. I'll give that a try and report back once the temps get down. Its a bit extreme but I cannot afford to not go out regardless of weatther ( last year there was a full week of -35C and under)

No center diff light at all when switching from 4H to 4H locked. Im gonna go thru the wiring

Rear diff is LSD

 

[DragoPrado]

Here is what I did to check the center diff. AT in N. Transfer lever in 4H (default). Parking brake to lock both rear wheels. Jacked up one front tire. The tire rotates easilily in 4H. Switch transfer lever to 4H locked. Tire does not rotate in 4H locked. So my lever works and center diff locks accordingly. Just need to figure out why my dashboard light isnt on.

 

[DragoPrado]

Also, everyone should do themselves a favor and never buy anything else than genuine parts. Both inner tie rods and LBJ from RockAuto are kaput after 10k kms. Doesnt matter which brand they were (Mevotech). I did everything right. Pre-greased them. Used proper torquing specs. No way its my fault. Genuine only.

That being said, genuine are too expensive. So imma try MOOG LBJs and Inner tire rods next. I'll report back with another tantrum once they fail. No worries, I can slam my head against the wall all day.

 

[DragoPrado]

Regarding hitch fitment. I got a 3rd gen 4runner hitch. NOT a straight bolt in as the hitch did not sit flush on the frame. A thin long metal piece neded to be fabricated so it sits flush. The top brackets for the hitch (they are small wth threaded holes to hold the bolts you see pointing up) were trimmed off to fit on top of the frame. Here are some pics.
Left

Right

Left Side.

 

[vs11]

Nice Car.
do you have a photo of the engine compartment where you can see the catch can

 

[DragoPrado]

Nice Car.
do you have a photo of the engine compartment where you can see the catch can

I'd sell it in a hartbeat if I could make back the money I spent on it.
This guy Mark Roberts posted in the facebook group Mighty 90s a very good tutorial on how he mounted his. Here's his

And here is mine lol. Nobody has time for rivnuts and drilling. I'll get to it someday

 

[vs11]

Thanks

 

[dsand]

Hi, have you used the shell 0w40 yet? Just wondering if you’ve tried 5w30 as that’s what the owners manual recommends for coldest weather. If you need any manuals let me know, I have them all.

Awesome thread by the way, tons of good info and giving me lots of motivation to get on some of my preventative maintenance plans! Not sure if you have but try partsouq for OEM parts. Always good prices ans at my door in less than a week every time.

 

[DragoPrado]

Hey bud. Thanks. Havent's tried the 0w40 as my work contracts up north got cancelled. I've been rocking the 5w30 for 2 oil changes no problem even in hotter weather. I wouldnt put 0w40 unless you gonna be daily driving under -30C. If I had to pick one to rock all year in BC, it would be rotella t6 10w40. Best way to approach preventitive maintenace is with dread rather than excitement.

 

[DragoPrado]

Alright. About 25k kms later. -30C cold starts on occasion this winter without any problem or delay. 10w40. Winter was pretty mild and I never needed to switch to 0w40. Currently have 15w40 for the summer. Engine is running great. I've been doing some towing and the thing pulls hard no problem. Actually it pulls really good. That knocking that I was hearing isnt getting worse nor is it getting better. I guess its just how those engines sound. I had a front E-locker installed Trerrain Tamer part# A11167-6TT by Overland Garage in Vancouver - recommended by bemorecharles. It needed a machine shop to shave 3 thousand of an inch off to clear electromagnet. Fixed the center diff light on the dash - it was just a faulty LED. I plan on on taking the valve cover off once again to inspect how things are under there. How much soot has accumulated since I cleaned things off. I also want to check how my injector o-rings are doing. My oil changes have been coming out super clean everytime, so I am not worried. But most importantly I will finally adjust the valve clearances that I left borderline out of spec last time. But before all that, I plan on taking my exhaust manifold off and installing four EGT probes (one for each cylinder). I want to drive around normally and gather some EGT values before I do the valve clearance for comparison. THEN and only THEN If everything looks good, I believe my anxiety will disappear and I will enjoy driving the car. I also smashed my back window by having a rock ricochet off my snowmobile trailer. I did patch it up with some vapour barrier and tuck tape. I also had to extend my mudflaps.

 

[DragoPrado]

I also had this idea of installing a backup camera. So I bought this unit

AUTO-VOX V5PRO OEM​

Pretty unique compared to the rest of the options available out there. It doesnt go on top of your rearview mirror - it replaces it. Also the front facing camera is on the right side and thus much more suitable for RHD cars. I have yet to test it fully but so far so good. But it has a very different mounting arm compared to the OEM mirror.

 

[DragoPrado]

To remedy the problem I bought some adapters off Aliexpress along with some extenders. Here is a pic of the adapter on the left - ANSHILONG Car Rear View Mirror Bracket Mount for Most of Honda Hyundai Ford Kia Nissan Toyota / Bracket no. 9

And picture of the extender on the right - Metal Extended Tube for Car Interior Mirror Bracket, Let Bracket Lengthened

 

[DragoPrado]

The arm adapter was a hair too long and was hitting my windsheld. I had to file it a tad. Its made of cast alulinum so pretty easy file.

As you see, I bought multiple of the same adapter. They were pretty cheap and i was expecting modifications. Used black marker to paint the filed section back in black. I also enlarged the middle hole so the camera cable can fit thru easily.

 

[DragoPrado]

Before and After

 

[DragoPrado]

Last year I remember trying to set up Techstream software on a virtual Windows Machine but ran into all sorts of software problems and abbandoned the idea. Now a year and a half later, I tried again and managed to pull some partial information from the ECU. This time I did it thru my phone.

Here is a picture of the OBD type connector under the steering wheel (a bit of corrosion around pin 13).
So mine has pins 4,7,9,13,14,16. Seems like a M-OBD or DLC3. From what I understand M-OBD is a in-house protocol that is like a half-assed OBD2.

I connected a elm237 v1.5 bluetooth adapter dongle to it and tried to run Torque Pro App (android) on my phone. Did not work. After some research I found that you can change the query protocol that Torque uses to decipher the information from the ECU by adding a configuration string under "Very Advanced" option under "Vehicle Profile". I added the string "ATIB 96 \n ATIIA 13 \n ATSH8213F0 \n ATSP4 \n 0100". That seemed to work. I connected to the ECU and managed to pull some very basic, limited information like revs, coolant temperature and manifold air pressure. But nothing of substance.

After some more perusing of posts here and there I decided to download ELMScan Toyota and paid for it. I managed to connect to the ECU using the 98-06 Toyota Lexus protocol option (left). I also managed to connect to the engine ECU (right). I guess the protocol that is used is ISO-14230

.

 

[DragoPrado]

I pulled some values on cold start and after it warmed up. Hot and cold values did not differ by much at all. Here is what I got on idle 730rpm and at 2100ish rpm after engine warmned up:

.

Based on some further reading on australian 1KDs for 120 and 150 Prados, injector compensation values of more than +/- 3.0 are bad. ECU stops compensating at +/-5 as that is the limit.
It seems my total injection volume 7.9 is within spec. However cylinder 3 looks pretty bad with -3.6 on idle and -3.9 at 2100ish rpm. It is compensating for something by removing fuel. My priority right now is to find an adapter that I can do a compression test with thru glowplug hole.

For clear and concise information regarding 1KD engines and other Toyota diesels, I highly recommend checking out this guy.

Dont watch or pay any attention to the channel Fourby4Diesel and the facebook group related to that channel. The main dude there just tries to scare people into buying injectors from him. Most of it is just mindless blabbering that goes on and on. Moreso than this here journal lol

For those thinking of getting a 2004+ 120 series KDJ, check out this info about pistons. Also this blog.

 

[DragoPrado]

best explanation on 1kd failures

 

[partysteak]

Love following along on this progress! I imported a 2001 KDJ95W a year and a bit ago. Got it cheap at auction due to some issues. It sat for a while as a secondary vehicle, but I've recently started the process of figuring everything out and getting it working well. I'm in Vancouver too, so your links and everything are proving to be quite helpful!