Just picked up immaculate '13 LX570 rear A/C not cold enough...intermittent driver footwell hiss (1 Viewer)

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So, I'm guessing it's an expansion valve or something if all the freon is one thing. I feel like it going to be something that costs either $50 or $3000. Lol this truck is so clean and was so well looked after it's ridiculous. Just my luck. Lol. I swear the day after the first day I noticed the warm air, it was cool the next day.
Agree. There’s one thread floating around where it’s a rear pressure switch that fixed his rear AC but that’s the only info I’ve ever seen
 
I’d vote for low coolant. You could pay a mechanic to test pressures and add refrigerant. That’s the first place I would start. I had multiple issues w my lx470. Finally found the leak, but I also got good at adding refrigerant on the side of the road.
 
Thanks. What is the "FSM"? I agree with removing all variables. We checked the air filter, and the controls.

I have disabled 4 zone and set it to low in the front, still warm rear air. I sat in the back and set it to low with 4 zone turned back on., still no dice. Pretty sure it's not a switch or control issue.

It's going to be cold here tomorrow night conveniently so I'll test the heat out back there.

I know how to pull climate codes on my LS430 but not on these.

Mr Cool is right down the street and has excellent reviews. These rigs have to have been designed to be easy to service, as proper trucks should, right?

I don't want JoeBlow messing with my truck if it's super complex to dig into. I avoid the dealerships out of warranty unless there's no choice.

FSM = Factory Service Manual and there should be a check down for this sort of thing but I am not sure. I am not sure about pulling codes for specific systems, but a simple code reader should provide any current codes that are being generated. If there is a faulty sensor then it should show up.

These trucks are not difficult to work on, but they are modern vehicles.

Luckily a lot of the Lexus/toyota systems have similar designs so I don't think you should be worried about Mr Cool for this. I'm sure he can sort it out.
 

Here is a thread that potentially mentions same issue you are experiencing. I also had a similar experience with a hissing noise that was remedied with a proper A/C recharge as the system was just barely filled to the bottom end of spec. If the noise you are hearing goes away when you turn A/C off then I would posit it’s low on refrigerant.
 
So to follow up on this... I bought some refrigerant, added a tiny bit, and the rear started to get colder. I added some more, got colder, added some more and it got colder. Now dropping 30 degrees from ambient. I’m only at 68 in Nashville today but i I’ll follow up on a warmer day and see if my numbers hold. Just a data point for y’all
 

Here is a thread that potentially mentions same issue you are experiencing. I also had a similar experience with a hissing noise that was remedied with a proper A/C recharge as the system was just barely filled to the bottom end of spec. If the noise you are hearing goes away when you turn A/C off then I would posit it’s low on refrigerant.

Thanks, I think so too.

So to follow up on this... I bought some refrigerant, added a tiny bit, and the rear started to get colder. I added some more, got colder, added some more and it got colder. Now dropping 30 degrees from ambient. I’m only at 68 in Nashville today but i I’ll follow up on a warmer day and see if my numbers hold. Just a data point for y’all

Where do you insert the freon and is it easy? Thanks for the information! It's colder than that here in Knox today.
 
Sounds like you have a leak. You might want to throw some gauges on it to make sure your pressures are safe. You don’t need to spend a ton on them - I have a cheap set from Harbor Fright or Northern Tool that have worked fine for years.
 
Thanks, I think so too.



Where do you insert the freon and is it easy? Thanks for the information! It's colder than that here in Knox today.
There’s a low side pressure nipple (probably not the right word) on the right side of the engine bay. It’s under a little plastic valve cap (like a tire) .... to be honest I just picked up a cheap ($40) bottle of Freon from Home Depot. If you YouTube adding Freon i bet there are plenty of videos
 
There’s a low side pressure nipple (probably not the right word) on the right side of the engine bay. It’s under a little plastic valve cap (like a tire) .... to be honest I just picked up a cheap ($40) bottle of Freon from Home Depot. If you YouTube adding Freon i bet there are plenty of videos
Good news. If it gets worse over time, you would have to check for leaks. Good luck.
 
A few people have posted needing to add just a little refrigerant to get things working correctly.. and in most cases it held. Someone else posted that due to corrosion one of he rear AC lines had a super small pinhole leak.

OP I’d spend some time tracing the lines and looking for oily spots.

Either way glad you got it sorted and posted feedback to help others.
 
A few people have posted needing to add just a little refrigerant to get things working correctly.. and in most cases it held. Someone else posted that due to corrosion one of he rear AC lines had a super small pinhole leak.

OP I’d spend some time tracing the lines and looking for oily spots.

Either way glad you got it sorted and posted feedback to help others.
It's not sorted out yet but I have a ton of info on where to start thanks to these forums. I'm 80% sure it needs freon which my buddy can do for free. The hissing sound goes away when I turn all the A/C off.
 
@SharpeCat had a similar issue in an LX. He added Freon and it helped his situation. Not sure of the longevity of the fix.
 
@SharpeCat had a similar issue in an LX. He added Freon and it helped his situation. Not sure of the longevity of the fix.
When I experienced the rear being warmer it was a vast difference between the front and rear. To properly test for a leak is not easy/cheap, so I opted to top off the Freon and go from there.

The proper way to do it is to first drain your current refrigerant and then refill, but I just filled mine as I had no good way to drain it at home. I actually put quite a bit in, almost the full amount recommended if it started empty. There is a little glass/round window in one of your refrigerant lines (next to radiator fan when looking down at radiator from top), that lets you see your refrigerant flowing. A healthy supply will show a continuous stream of fluid without bubbles visible, a low amount will result in bubbles being visible as air flows besides the coolant. I filled until the stream was solid/no more bubbles.

I have not noticed my AC getting less cold since, so I assume that means if there is a leak, that it is nothing major. Summer is coming up again so I will put her through another round of tests and report back.

Pictures are to show the glass window for checking refrigerant flow. This is looking in from the front of the car and down in front of radiator on headlight driver side. Little dark circle next to the grey-knob (marked H) looking thing; you have to wipe off the dirt to see the fluid.

image.jpg


image.jpg
 
It’s called a sight glass. Make sure car is on and AC is on max when checking it. In addition to using the sight glass, I made sure the pressure was still in the green zone on the gauge/hose that came with the refrigerant refill kit as I was refilling it. The recommended amount can be found in your users manual, but I’ll see if I can dig it up.

For a 2010 it is 32.5 oz without cool box and about 2 more with cool box.


Example of visible bubbles/low refrigerant.
 
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Does anyone have a picture perhaps where this low pressure connection is? I still have all that engine cover crap on, but I’m pretty sure I found metal the line that connects to it. But isn’t said line supposed to be cold?

This is actually a repair that I can do. I know cars very well but I’m useless fixing things myself, unfortunately.

Thanks again. Lexus wanted $285, LOL. I’d still like to do this myself but Mr Cool down the street only charges $70.
 
Does anyone have a picture perhaps where this low pressure connection is? I still have all that engine cover crap on, but I’m pretty sure I found metal the line that connects to it. But isn’t said line supposed to be cold?

This is actually a repair that I can do. I know cars very well but I’m useless fixing things myself, unfortunately.

Thanks again. Lexus wanted $285, LOL. I’d still like to do this myself but Mr Cool down the street only charges $70.
Look. You had a truck worth $35-40k. If you add too much coolant, you could do thousands of damage to your vehicle. I’d pay mr cool 70 dollars to do it right. Also, you have recourse if he does it wrong.
 
Look. You had a truck worth $35-40k. If you add too much coolant, you could do thousands of damage to your vehicle. I’d pay mr cool 70 dollars to do it right. Also, you have recourse if he does it wrong.

Yes I was thinking that myself. I made an appointment. The refrigerant is $40 so what’s another $30 for pros to do it.
 
It was just low on refrigerant. Added some and it's all ice cold. Probably a small, small leak somewhere that I don't care to fuss with. The PO of this truck never had any passengers (claims back seat was never even used) so the shoe sorta fits. Driver's side was always cold enough.
 
It was just low on refrigerant. Added some and it's all ice cold. Probably a small, small leak somewhere that I don't care to fuss with. The PO of this truck never had any passengers (claims back seat was never even used) so the shoe sorta fits. Driver's side was always cold enough.
Yup. I’ve hardly had kids in the back seats for longer than 10 min. For all I know it’s blowing hot on mine, Lol.
 
It was just low on refrigerant. Added some and it's all ice cold. Probably a small, small leak somewhere that I don't care to fuss with. The PO of this truck never had any passengers (claims back seat was never even used) so the shoe sorta fits. Driver's side was always cold enough.
Pro Tip: always keep rear HVAC on, regardless of passenger occupancy or not.
 
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