just completed birfield repack (1 Viewer)

[97cruiser]

Rick, Thnx for the reassurance. As I stated in my original posting, the pre-load isn't significantly affected until around 40-41 ft./lbs., luckily. I'm still curious about the slight clicking gear sound I get when the truck is on jackstands and I spin the wheel. As I mentioned it did this before and after the repack. I hear no clicking when driving and none when in 4lo and wheels cranked. Is this just a normal gear sound? It sounds more prevalant on the PS but the differential is also on that side. Can someone try this on their truck? It's probably normal but I just don't know.

Thnx, Vince

 

[landtank]

As for the preload, I don't even bother with that. Too many variables for it to give consistant results. Type of grease, amount of grease used, temp of grease, you get the idea. More than one person has had to go back in there to reset the preload after a short time because it was loose.

Now the noise I wouldn't want to guess. But do you remember hearing the noise during the preload test? If so then it would have to be in the hub bearings as the drive flange wouldn't have been installed and nothing else would have been turning.

If not you might want to drop the drive shaft and check again to be sure it's in the axle.

 

[malcolm]

Congratulations on the birf repack Vince. I disassembled my birfields but didn't think it was necessary, and in fact they can be reassembled wrong so it adds some risk to the job. There is one other thing that can be done though, and that is to switch the birfields (right to left etc). There is a knowledgeable guy named Robbie on there that does this too. If the birfs are taken of the shafts the snap ring under the birf (on the shaft) should be replaced.

I torqued my axel nuts to about 43 ft-lbs and had to back of a little to get 9 lbf pull at the wheel studs.

 

[Wayne]

One thing I discovered when setting the pre-load is, if you spin the hub three or four revolution before making the spring gauge reading it gives a truer reading. If the reading isn't correct and you have to adjust the nut some, rotate the hub three or four turns, then take the reading......

Wayne S

 

[landtank]

Noticed the same thing Wayne. I torque the nut to 20ftlbs and then spin 4/5 revs and then check again. After the first time the nut comes in at about 12ftlbs. After about 4 repeats the torque is stable at around 20ftlbs which is where I leave it.

I had alot of trouble with my FJ60 as the hubs would loosen, or it seemed to. Out of frustration I just did the above proceedure and all was well from then on. It's not factory but works for me.

 

[Safado]

[quote author=97cruiser link=board=2;threadid=10821;start=msg98414#msg98414 date=1075819586]
HOLY CRAP!!!!, Safado you are exactly correct my adjusting nut is set at about 43 ft./lbs. as I type. I have put about 15 city miles on and 15 hwy miles on since the repack. Do you guys think the bearings are ok? I will fixt it as soon as I am done typing. Man, I haven't felt this STUPID in a looong time.

Thank you Safado, I owe you a big one,

Vince
[/quote]

Woohoo!!!

Well glad I could help out, I would say better to error on the tight side than the loose side. I too wouldn't think you've caused any damage either. As far as the clicking goes, could it be air pockets snapping? I know I had a few the first few times I compressed everything together and spun the hubs. See if it's there still when you check again. Good luck again!

 

[97cruiser]

Safado, As far as the clicking , it clicked before the repack and still after tightening the adjusting nut(54mm) properly. Curiously though, it does not do it when I spin the hub with no wheel attached. Does this tell anybody anything?

Thnx again, Vince

 

[Poser]

[quote author=97cruiser link=board=2;threadid=10821;start=msg97435#msg97435 date=1075597221]

As for the broken bolt, well I could not get it out after trying with an easy out and drilling. I aventually pounded an aluminum bolt with some loctite into it to hold me over until I can get it to a shop. When I pulled the bottom half of the seal I could definately see where an extra amount of grease was getting through the weak spot. What a pisser.

Vince
[/quote]

Try a left hand drill bit. Many times, trying to drill a hole in the fastener with a left hand bit can get it to back out, but on the other hand, as another poster stated, you did overtighten that bolt by 12X!!

Good luck!

-Steve

 

[Safado]

[quote author=97cruiser link=board=2;threadid=10821;start=msg98847#msg98847 date=1075865808]
Safado, As far as the clicking , it clicked before the repack and still after tightening the adjusting nut(54mm) properly. Curiously though, it does not do it when I spin the hub with no wheel attached. Does this tell anybody anything?

Thnx again, Vince
[/quote]

3 steps

1. Does it click when you test the preload? You said NO, wheel bearings and such shouldn't be an issue then.
2. Does it click once you put the hub flange on? If so, then it's when the birf and axel are engaged. See if you can tell if it's coming from the diff at all and that will tell you where your problem is. Just for kicks, have someone turn the opposite wheel and see if the clicking persists. Foreward and Reverse
3. Does it click only once you put the tire on. If so, check for space between the caliper and hub, I know mine is close. Also try it without the hub cap.

Good luck.